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Old 04-23-2009, 10:33 AM   #61
Baja Ho
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Great report, Baja is good. Just came back from a six week vacation down their.
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:40 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by Baja Ho
Great report, Baja is good. Just came back from a six week vacation down their.
Six weeks! Sweet!!!!!

What did you get up to?
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Old 04-23-2009, 01:54 PM   #63
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Here's a story from Time about how the Tourist Trade in Baja is being hammered.
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Old 04-23-2009, 02:48 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by SenorPeligro
Thanks amigo!

You coming to alt-WMRS this year?
When is that?
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Old 04-23-2009, 02:53 PM   #65
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When is that?
The open day at the research station is Sunday August 2nd. Stonewall usually posts something about this event although I haven't seen anything yet. The ADV "event" is usually at Brown's Owens River campground.

Not sure what the deal is this year.
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Old 04-23-2009, 07:11 PM   #66
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Super!

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Old 04-23-2009, 07:34 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by SenorPeligro
Anyone out there still reading this trash?
Naah I stopped reading tomorrow

Great RR need to do more riding on my BRP, OK back to the report...
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Old 04-24-2009, 12:02 AM   #68
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Day 9: Bahia de Los Angeles to San Ignacio

I awoke to pre-dawn gloom. The sky was gray and oppressive.



Mexico had been full of surprises and this rugged bay didn't disappoint. I half expected to see a dinosaur.



Crashy slept in a little so I wandered around some just soaking up the place until he emerged from our huge room. An inmate from the Chain Gang had offered to send a replacement shock down to him, there's a brother and sisterhood on that site that I wish all motorcycle owners could enjoy. I think it's probably because us F650 guys are shunned by other BMW owners

We dined on Machaca with delicious fresh Tortillas. Crashy found a fly in his but it was well cooked so I wasn't worried...

The nice Señora who made us breakfast struck up a conversation with me. I followed along in Spanish for a while until I started losing the thread. She switched over to good English without missing a beat. Her family were staying in the room next to us and had driven her back from a trip to Ensanada. She asked me where we were going and I told here about our idea of going to San Ignacio. With a slight smile she told me she had never been there. The ability to travel is something I think we here mostly take for granted. I almost asked if she wanted to come with.... but the lack of rear foot pegs, spare a helmet and the impracticality of dumping most of my junk on Crashy's shock-busted bike, really kicked the stool from under that idea.

Perhaps we are only as free as the choices we allow ourselves?

Our plan was to reach Ignacio Springs at the laguna de San Ignacio. It was going to be a long day on the slab and Crashy was plotting to find a relatively easy dirt route we could take. There was a long difficult route that would have been a challenge for gas to the south but instead we decided on a little shortcut....

It was supposed to be a dirt road and it started rather nicely







We came to a sort of fork in the trail. It was hard to tell as it just got hellishly sandy. We took the west most route and it just got worse and worse... and worse.

Crashy dumped it, despite having ninja-skillz.


(xymotic)

We agreed to scout out the hill to see if I got better. I was hoping for rocks.

It stayed about as sucky as I could imagine right up to the top and we still had another ten miles or so to go. I didn't want another day like Pinkham Canyon and I wasn't having fun anymore

I told Crashy I was bailing-out and we struggled to turn the bikes around on the narrow sandy trail. We waded our way back down the hill and into the deep sand-pit before making an escape back to the road with our tails between our legs.

Discretion is the better part of valor.... right?

Back on the pavement again we pounded through hot scouring cross-wind. There was nobody at the immigration station on the border into BC Sur so all the traffic just rolled through. Must have been a lunch break.

I think this is my favorite shot of the trip. We're actually in Baja California Sur looking up the road to the northern state. Front page anyone...?



It was about this time that Crashy asked me I could smell something funny. Sure I could... kinda sweet. Hmmm... that smells like coolant. He nodded his head sadly. His water pump seal was leaking and oozing coolant out of the weep hole. Not good. Not good. We were very close to Guerrero Negro so we decided to stop there for some gas, a trip to the bank and time to consider our options over refreshments.

Guerrero Negro had a sketchy feel to it. Crashy used the phrase "Dodge City". Even so, I was a little surprised to see the bank being guarded by an Mexican Army patrol. Straight out of the old west.

It was at this point that I noticed I had lost my camera. I'm guessing you can figure out how this sidebar concludes... I doubled back to the gas station where I took the photo above... nada. Dammit!

No I had to cross back in BC Sur and the checkpoint was manned. They checked over the FMT, wrote something down then waved me through. I was resigned to the fact I'd just lot all my photos and made the turn into town... and there it was. In the soft case, just lying there on the road. I couldn't believe my good fortune. A little piece of Baja magic for me.

It was still early afternoon so we took a little side trip to see the Dunas. There's still a big salt evaporation operation out there. The road to the dunes turned from paved, to potholes, then to hard-pack with the occasional ghost of asphalt right the way down to sand at the end.





As white as bleached bone, my mind had difficulty comprehending the sand dunes in the distance.



My XR enjoyed the cooling sea-breeze.



It was time to leave this bizarre landscape. Another unexpected treasure we just stumbled across. More Baja magic.

Our shadows stretched in the afternoon sunlight as we raced down to San Ignacio. The land was flat and inhabited by Cactii as far as the mind could feel. This was the real deal, a place totally alien to me. I felt like an astronaut exploring a new world. I was the Stranger in a Strange Land.

Lonely out there. I was glad to have company.

The plain was dotted with mesas. Extinct volcanoes I think. Quite spectacular but I am going to be selfish. That photo belongs to me, existing solely in my mind's eye. I need to hold on to something just for me.

Sharing is exhausting.

After a long, dry ride we turned a corner and were confronted with a sea of date palms. It was incredible, to emerge from a desert land, into a tropical oasis. A dramatic and sudden transition without warning.

The air grew humid as we followed the road down into the groves.

One more army checkpoint to cross. We were good at the routine, I'd do the talking.

Pemex, one of my favorite sights.


(xymotic)

In the desert, fuel is distance and water is time.

At the gas station we met a couple of Canadian guys on *loaded* KLR's. They were riding down from Alberta to Tierra del Feugo but not in one trip. Storing their bikes and flying back to their lives until they could pick up on the road south again. We wished them luck.

Off to Ignacio Springs. Again we were lucky with accommodation. All the yurts were full but we could stay in the Palapa. I was concerned it was a little too close to camping for Crashy but we were in for a surprise. There was a queen sized bed (don't go there) but the proprietor had place a cot in there. I think we flipped for it an Crashy won.

The lagoon was a welcome contrast from the stark beauty of the desert



Another perfect moment in time and space.



We dined in the twilight. Again we ate like kings. Rulers of our destiny. At least for a few days more. Inside I was screaming "I'm the farthest man from home".

Even though I knew I wasn't setting a record, or blazing a new path.

Just walking over the farthest hill on the horizon of my experience.

Skip to Next Day
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Old 04-24-2009, 08:03 AM   #69
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SenorPeligro
In the desert, fuel is distance and water is time.

Ahhh, grasshoppah....you are leaning my direction.


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Old 04-24-2009, 08:30 AM   #70
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Ahhh, grasshoppah....you are leaning my direction.


I may have read Dune one time too many.
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Old 04-24-2009, 08:39 AM   #71
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SenorPeligro
I may have read Dune on time too many.

Perhaps.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SenorPeligro
Discretion is the better part of valor.... right?

Discretion is for quitters...so close, grasshopper...yet, so far away....one step forward, two back.











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Old 04-24-2009, 08:42 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by larryboy
Perhaps.





Discretion is for quitters...so close, grasshopper...yet, so far away....one step forward, two back.











I didn't even know that sand got that deep

My sand riding skills are seriously weak sauce. Need to go spend a long weekend at Pismo Beach. Rocks just don't bother me though.
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Old 04-24-2009, 01:52 PM   #73
Baja Ho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SenorPeligro
Six weeks! Sweet!!!!!

What did you get up to?
Not worthy of an ADV report, an R.V. trip to Cabo with the wifey and Husky 610 in tow, only did 500 miles or so out of different places that we stayed. Ok - here are a couple of pics.

Naranja Road, crosses the peninsula approximately 30 miles North of Cabo.




Road from Mulege, crossed peninsula to San Juanico.




Road from Loreto 2-up to Mission San Javier.

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Old 04-24-2009, 01:56 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by Baja Ho
Not worthy of an ADV report, an R.V. trip to Cabo with the wifey and Husky 610 in tow, only did 500 miles or so out of different places that we stayed. Ok - here are a couple of pics.

Naranja Road, crosses the peninsula approximately 30 miles North of Cabo.




Road from Mulege, crossed peninsula to San Juanico.




Road from Loreto 2-up to Mission San Javier.

Now those are the kind of roads we wanted to find.
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Old 04-24-2009, 06:31 PM   #75
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Mmmmmm, How's the 610 in Baja.

My short list of my next bike is down to two, KTM 690R or TE 610.

+1 on the That Mission looks like it's top of the list for the B.B.redux.
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