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Old 04-12-2009, 08:06 PM   #1
Michelangelo OP
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HEATED GRIPS-install w or w/out resistor?

Got a set of heated grips for me bike and have heard varying theories on whether I should install with the built-in, inline resistor or not? I've heard that it'll sap the power from my already weak electrical system on (89 Transalp XL600V) and that it's just not necessary.

So what exactly does this resistor do and do I really need it? Will only use the heated grips on limited cold weather rides, which I normally try to avoid!

They are Moto Boss brand with a Hi-Off-Lo switch, pretty basic.
The resistor reads: "10 2RJ"
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:21 PM   #2
mbfj40
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Check your wiring diagram, It probably shows the resister in line (series) when your toggle switch is in the "low" position. If that's what they have printed up, then you can leave it out if you want, but your grips will only have high and off.
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Old 04-13-2009, 06:08 AM   #3
30Bones
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Mine do not have the resistor. I have not finished wiring them, just put on new grips and thought I'd get the easy part done.
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:45 AM   #4
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The resistor doesn't use more power it uses up the extra power when you choose to run the grips at the lower heat setting. If you are concerned about power usage you could run the grips on a pulse width modulator (DC motor controllers) which cycles the power on and off instead of throwing it away at the resistor.
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:17 PM   #5
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The series resistor limits the power going into the heating elements. It actually drops the voltage, by some amount determined by the resistance of the heating elements and the resistor itself. Less voltage going to the heating element, less heat. The voltage dropped by the resistor, is dissipated as heat by the resistor. Since you are not holding on to the resistor, that heat is wasted. However, it served it's purpose, reduce the heat in the grip.

You can reduce the heated grip power by 1/4 if you wire them in series. For example, if each grip is 30 watts, wired in parallel, your battery will be supplying 60W total to the pair of heated grips. If they are wired in series, each grip will get 7.5W for a total of 15W drain on the battery. I am making an assumption of equal wattage on both grips. I think some comes with one side hotter to compensate for the greater heat loss from direct contact to the bars on the clutch side.

You can use a double pole double throw switch to switch between paralled and series connection. Wired as such, you can eliminate the heat reduction resistor and get better use, no waste, of battery power.

Question is ... are heated grips normally designed to be wired in series or parallel? I am assuming they are designed to be wired in parallel.
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:17 PM   #6
Michelangelo OP
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Thanks for the lesson on resistor guys. I think I'm going to simply follow the directions to hook them up instead of all the fancy stuff. I'm a complete novice at electrics.

Anyhow, the instructions call for an inline amp between the power source. I was thinking I' d solder an inline blade fuse. How many amps should I use for the fuse?
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Old 04-13-2009, 04:33 PM   #7
bwringer
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Some heated grips, like Hot Grips, are designed to be wired in series. I've toyed with the idea of wiring in a switch to engage "turbo" mode (switch to parallel) but I'd probably melt something.

As far as the fuse, most heated grips draw around 3 amps max, so a 5 amp fuse would be sufficient. I usually just use a 10 amp fuse, since that's what other stuff on my bike uses.
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Old 04-13-2009, 05:23 PM   #8
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Series vs Parallel

When wiring my DualStar heated grips, I wired them matching the colored wires white to white and blue to blue. Would this be considered in series?? If I cross white to blue would that be parallel??

I aonly ask because I am disappointed with the amount of heat that the grips put out. I barely feel the warmth throu a pair of gloves. Incidentally, I also wrapped the clutch side bar with insulation. The grips are wired through my Centech fuse box.

Should I cross the wires for more heat???
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nunzo
When wiring my DualStar heated grips, I wired them matching the colored wires white to white and blue to blue. Would this be considered in series?? If I cross white to blue would that be parallel??

I aonly ask because I am disappointed with the amount of heat that the grips put out. I barely feel the warmth throu a pair of gloves. Incidentally, I also wrapped the clutch side bar with insulation. The grips are wired through my Centech fuse box.

Should I cross the wires for more heat???
You may have an install problem?????.....my DualStars are almost too hot on high....I run them on high for a couple of minutes stitch to low and it good unless it freakin cold.......just a note dual stars do NOT use a resistor.
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:52 PM   #10
xroad
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If the heated element is designed to be wired parallel, then it is OK to do it. If it is designed to be wired in series, I would not wire them otherwise, even if you use heavier wires. The heating element maynot survive the heat.

Parallel means for EACH heat element, one wire goes to the battery "+" and the other wire goes to the battery "-".

Series means the two elements are "string together". Battery "+" goes to wire "A" of heat element #1, wire "B" of element #1 goes to wire "A" of element #2, wire "B" of element #2 goes to ground (battery "-").

Of course, both case, there needs to have a series connected fuse. No such thing as parallel connection.
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Old 04-14-2009, 11:06 AM   #11
Michelangelo OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbfj40
Check your wiring diagram, It probably shows the resister in line (series) when your toggle switch is in the "low" position. If that's what they have printed up, then you can leave it out if you want, but your grips will only have high and off.
My diagram for the Trackside brand grip heater shows the RESISTOR in line with the HI switch position. What gives? I thought it was to help dissipate some of the power to make the grip less hot when on LO like you're saying.

And what about insulating the clutch side handlebar? Mine didn't come with any sort of insulation and I'm running alum. bars. What do you recommend, electrical tape?
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:09 PM   #12
keiji
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michelangelo
My diagram for the Trackside brand grip heater shows the RESISTOR in line with the HI switch position. What gives? I thought it was to help dissipate some of the power to make the grip less hot when on LO like you're saying.

And what about insulating the clutch side handlebar? Mine didn't come with any sort of insulation and I'm running alum. bars. What do you recommend, electrical tape?
When the switch is flipped to high, it is actually connecting the two leds on the opposite side of the toggle



PS. I don't remember where it is, and i've been too lazy to google, but there's a video on the internet of someone messing around with kimpex grip heaters(which are identical to the trackside) to see how hot they got. IIRC, they got hot enough to melt shit and catch on fire. Follow the instructions unless you know what you are doing.
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Old 04-14-2009, 05:48 PM   #13
bwringer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keiji
When the switch is flipped to high, it is actually connecting the two leds on the opposite side of the toggle



PS. I don't remember where it is, and i've been too lazy to google, but there's a video on the internet of someone messing around with kimpex grip heaters(which are identical to the trackside) to see how hot they got. IIRC, they got hot enough to melt shit and catch on fire. Follow the instructions unless you know what you are doing.

Yup, if you're dumb enough to hook them up "just to see if they work" before you've attached them to a heat sink, they will quickly melt themselves.

Let's use our heads, people...
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:58 PM   #14
nunzo
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Showkey---I followed the directions on the package. Just wondering if running the wires to a Centech Fuse bix instead of the battery would make the difference. I think I hvae a 6 amp fuse onthe grips???
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Old 04-14-2009, 07:17 PM   #15
showkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nunzo
Showkey---I followed the directions on the package. Just wondering if running the wires to a Centech Fuse bix instead of the battery would make the difference. I think I hvae a 6 amp fuse onthe grips???
Fuse box should make no difference..............others have had trouble at the switch wiring connections....I would double check the connections.......If you some how connected the grips in series.......measure the available voltage at the grips on both sides????

Check the ground and be sure its good.......there should no voltage when the volt meter pos lead is connected to the ground of the grips and the ground on the battery neg lead on volt meter (this a voltage drop check).
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