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Old 10-06-2009, 12:43 PM   #16
Mark 42
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Olalla, WA
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I know - old message thread...
But, this morning I sat with my electric jacket liner turned on while
waiting for a ferry. When I went to start the bike, no joy.

I tried to bump start - maybe the prev owner upped the compression,
but I couldn't get it on level pavement (tire skidded in 1st or 2nd gear).

Pushed the bike up the dock to where it was uphill, then up the hill.
Roll started the bike. The 6:40 ferry was gone & the next one was at 7:55
(our gov't thinks there's something reasonable about a 1:15 gap in ferries
during the peak commute times instead of the normal 25 to 35 minutes)

If I can find a deal that will suit my tightwad dendencies the kickstarter
will be my next mofification.

Mark 42 screwed with this post 10-08-2009 at 08:13 AM
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:12 AM   #17
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BTW, how much weight does the kickstarter add?
(At least it's near the center of mass).
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:21 AM   #18
tcourdin
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I sold my DRZ S recently and never got around to adding the kickstarter. It was needed IMO, and always wished it came with one from the factory. I rode alot alone, and here in AR some of the places were very secluded. You get in the bottom of a valley and have the starter or battery fail and you would be screwed.

That kickstarter would be cheap insurance. The added weight complaints are rediculous. The DRZ isnt exactly lightweight by any means, adding a couple of pounds isnt going to be noticeable in any form!
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:49 PM   #19
Mark 42
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Thumb

It's also a safety item... I almost ran my son (Drew) over in our driveway
once when I push started the DRZ in the downhill driveway and when the
bike fired it threw me back on the seat so that I had the throttle turned
for about 1/2 second.

The old OEM part number has been superceded by a new one: 26300-29812
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:34 AM   #20
Mark 42
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Location: Olalla, WA
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Question

Bought one on eBay this morning ($180 + $10 S&H).

While I have the clutch cover off and clutch out, what else should
I do? Are there any left hand threads on this side of the engine?
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:18 AM   #21
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcourdin
I sold my DRZ S recently and never got around to adding the kickstarter. It was needed IMO, and always wished it came with one from the factory. I rode alot alone, and here in AR some of the places were very secluded. You get in the bottom of a valley and have the starter or battery fail and you would be screwed.

That kickstarter would be cheap insurance. The added weight complaints are rediculous. The DRZ isnt exactly lightweight by any means, adding a couple of pounds isnt going to be noticeable in any form!
Yup, I just recd. my kit in the mail & weighed all of the components on my postal scale. Comes in right at 3#. I crap bigger than that.
It is going on the bike this weekend.
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:30 AM   #22
Mark 42
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Yeah, I weighed mine at 3 lbs also (after removing the unused parts
for the manual compression release).

Eventually I'll post some photos of the parts that you don't need
and the ones that you do. I'll post 'em on TT & try to remember to
post here too.

Here are some useful threads & link

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=600644

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=842967

http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/gallery/13...#4997029_yDKix

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=724776

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=618775

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=812717

Mark 42 screwed with this post 11-04-2009 at 08:41 AM
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:17 AM   #23
Mark 42
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Location: Olalla, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark 42
BTW, how much weight does the kickstarter add?
(At least it's near the center of mass).
2.89 pounds.
That is after you deduct .14 pound for the spacer which you remove
(it is replaced by one of the gears).
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Old 11-06-2009, 04:40 PM   #24
HighwayChile
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hi mark, not that you are going to need to again but push starting always go for higher gears, if/when it pops you can downshift fast.

man I feel for you that is a really bad place to stall out. ugly. and tcourdin is dead on.
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Old 11-08-2009, 06:29 AM   #25
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dasvis
Yup, I just recd. my kit in the mail & weighed all of the components on my postal scale. Comes in right at 3#. I crap bigger than that.
It is going on the bike this weekend.
Almost there!
Teardown complete & am going for re-assembly now. The **&%^$## phillips screws on that hold-down bar are a bitch. I guess they make it quicker to assemble at the factory, but they are troublesome coming out.
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Old 11-08-2009, 01:15 PM   #26
Chilipepper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dasvis
Almost there!
Teardown complete & am going for re-assembly now. The **&%^$## phillips screws on that hold-down bar are a bitch. I guess they make it quicker to assemble at the factory, but they are troublesome coming out.
Those aren't Philips screws they are JIS screws -look the same but different profile on the heads. If you have a hardware store nearby switch them out for proper Philips or I used my manual hammer driver. Can't remember the name right now, it holds the screwdriver tip and you hit it with a hammer to turn on or off. Won't damage the screw that way.
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Old 11-09-2009, 05:46 AM   #27
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilipepper
Those aren't Philips screws they are JIS screws -look the same but different profile on the heads. If you have a hardware store nearby switch them out for proper Philips or I used my manual hammer driver. Can't remember the name right now, it holds the screwdriver tip and you hit it with a hammer to turn on or off. Won't damage the screw that way.
Yeah, once I found the proper bit for my impact driver they came right out.
Here are some pics of the install. Works great! I have the Clarke 3.9 gallon tank on my '09 DRZ-S & that complicates it a little - you need to grind off a bit so it does not rub a hole in the plastic tank. Mine is still too close for comfort - I may take a small piece of thin stainless steel sheetmetal & gorilla glue it to the bottom of the tank where the lever would rub. (has anyone tried this?) I don't want to grind off much more of the lever...

kickstart 5
kickstart 4
kickstart 3
kickstart 2
kcikstart 1
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Old 11-10-2009, 07:31 PM   #28
XC Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dasvis
Yeah, once I found the proper bit for my impact driver they came right out.
Here are some pics of the install. Works great! I have the Clarke 3.9 gallon tank on my '09 DRZ-S & that complicates it a little - you need to grind off a bit so it does not rub a hole in the plastic tank. Mine is still too close for comfort - I may take a small piece of thin stainless steel sheetmetal & gorilla glue it to the bottom of the tank where the lever would rub. (has anyone tried this?) I don't want to grind off much more of the lever...
Thanks for the info on the gas tank issue. I too have been thinking of adding a kicker to my DRZ, and also have the Clarke 3.9 tank. IMO, I think that your idea of applying a thin piece of sheet metal to the gas tank is probably the best solution.

Take some pictures and post them once you do it!
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Old 11-10-2009, 07:41 PM   #29
Mark 42
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Someone should start making a nice billet aluminum kickstart lever
about 5/8" shorter than stock. It would sell.

I'll have to look & see if I can shorten mine by removing length
where it pivots to fold up.

Titanium would be better - it could be hollow & ultra light
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:16 AM   #30
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark 42
Someone should start making a nice billet aluminum kickstart lever
about 5/8" shorter than stock. It would sell.

I'll have to look & see if I can shorten mine by removing length
where it pivots to fold up.

Titanium would be better - it could be hollow & ultra light
Good idea, I have a buddy is is an excellent aluminum welder- think I will buy another kickstart lever off of ebay & see what he can do with it.
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