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Old 11-11-2009, 06:14 AM   #31
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilipepper
Those aren't Philips screws they are JIS screws -look the same but different profile on the heads. If you have a hardware store nearby switch them out for proper Philips or I used my manual hammer driver. Can't remember the name right now, it holds the screwdriver tip and you hit it with a hammer to turn on or off. Won't damage the screw that way.
- Found a great source for JIS drivers. These guys are the sole importer of "Vessel" Japanese made tools. Below is a link to the bits they offer, search the site, they also show various screwdrivers & a lot of other top quality Japanese tools. I did some research on Philips head & JIS. The Phillips type were designed to "cam-out" once applied torque went above a certain limit to save the threads on the fastener. Nice- no wonder you see so many messed up heads on these. -- The JIS (Japanese industrial standard) type looks almost exactly the same, but the taper is slightly different - they are designed NOT to cam-out. If the JIS fastener is made to proper specs, it should have a small dimple or raised dot on the head to denote it as a JIS screw. From what I have read, you can use a JIS screwdriver on Phillps & it actually works better, but a phillips driver in a JIS screw will just mess it up. I have ordered a full set of JIS driver & bits!

http://www.jdvproducts.com/industria...-products.html
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Old 11-11-2009, 02:35 PM   #32
Mark 42
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I was thinking you could cut a section out, drill & tap both parts,
put a stud in (and screw the two halves together) and then weld
and file the joint to make it strog and invisible.

A good welder could make it strong enough w/o the internal steel dowel
(or a titanium stud!), but I haven't done aluminium yet (I recently added
gas to my wirefeed welder).
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Old 11-11-2009, 04:21 PM   #33
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I ground a little bit of my kickstarter, then under the tank there is a big rubber pad that goes on the spine of the frame. I used foam for wrapping around water pipes. I think it took 2 layers under that rubber pad to hold the tank up off the kickstart. 1 think 1 layer was enough for about 4 months then it compressed too much.
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:41 PM   #34
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilipepper
I ground a little bit of my kickstarter, then under the tank there is a big rubber pad that goes on the spine of the frame. I used foam for wrapping around water pipes. I think it took 2 layers under that rubber pad to hold the tank up off the kickstart. 1 think 1 layer was enough for about 4 months then it compressed too much.
Yeah, I thought about that too. Good idea.
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:22 PM   #35
Mark 42
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That's a good idea.
Use some automotive heater hose slit open and it won't
compress so much.

I will have to do that next time I take my tank off (if I can remember)
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Old 11-12-2009, 08:01 AM   #36
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Yep big hose would work too. I just happened to have the pipe insulation laying around. I really just did it because I don't like how much some people have ground down the kickstarter.
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Old 11-30-2009, 07:52 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XC Rider
Thanks for the info on the gas tank issue. I too have been thinking of adding a kicker to my DRZ, and also have the Clarke 3.9 tank. IMO, I think that your idea of applying a thin piece of sheet metal to the gas tank is probably the best solution.

Take some pictures and post them once you do it!
Finally had a chance to take it on an extended test ride... 100+ miles over mostly rough gravel roads & I can detect no sign of the lever rubbing on the tank at all. I think I will just leave it as is with no sheet metal protection.
The hour + that I spent on carefully grinding & test fitting paid off - it's a close fit but I made sure that there were no sharp edges & I buffed and polished it smooth.
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Old 07-03-2010, 07:40 PM   #38
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Can anyone give me advice on the picture below for my 470. . .

I'm having trouble installing kickstart gear with the knotch in the 4 O'Clock position. When I go to stick the long end of the spring into the engine case the gear always wants to rotate so the knotch is at 7 O'Clock or so. Is this correct? Should there be much tension on the spring or should there be little to no tension on the spring when it is installed?

Any help would be appreciated!

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Old 07-20-2011, 09:31 PM   #39
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Bumping this because I'm wondering the same thing..




GB
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Old 11-29-2011, 05:42 PM   #40
GetYourOwn
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Can someone answer this last question? I am getting ready to install the kick starter and would appreciate any advice
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:49 PM   #41
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetYourOwn View Post
Can someone answer this last question? I am getting ready to install the kick starter and would appreciate any advice
Sorry, it's been two years & many lost brain cells since I did the install.... I don't remember!
Dasvis
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:35 PM   #42
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Howdy All,

Install the spring assembly just like I show it in the photos, there MUST be tension on the kicker return spring for it to function properly.
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:31 AM   #43
peteFoulkes
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Thanks!

Outstanding instructions. Thanks for documenting.
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:16 PM   #44
Flatop
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DRZ400S kick start

Hi guys, we have 2 of DRZ400S that I would like to install the kickstarter on. Does the year of the machine matter or not? Mine are 2003 & 2004 units.
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:18 PM   #45
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatop View Post
Hi guys, we have 2 of DRZ400S that I would like to install the kickstarter on. Does the year of the machine matter or not? Mine are 2003 & 2004 units.
Nope
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