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Old 05-27-2009, 02:11 PM   #61
Infracaninophile OP
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Basic Maintenance Complete

Got back to town yesterday and took some time today to complete the basic stuff:

1. Replace Engine Oil and Filter - Check.
2. Replace Trannie Oil: Check
3. Replace Driveshaft Oil: Check
4. Replace Final Drive Oil: Check.
5. Replace All Crush Washers: Check.
6. Valve Adjustment: Check. Both exhaust very tight, both intakes a tad tight.
7. Replace Air Filter: Check.
8. Massage Anti-Seize on Exhaust Nuts: Check.
9. Check carb float bowls and blow out all jets: Check.
10. Replace spark plugs: Nope. Forgot to order them.

Next up:

1. Replace brake fluid and bleed system.
2. Replace fork oil.
3. Replace spark plugs and leads.
4. Mount new/used pannier racks.
5. Test battery.
6. Check timing.

No pics today as I didn't do anything that was not documented in my R100GS thread.

Tom
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:38 PM   #62
Malindi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infracaninophile
6. Valve Adjustment: Check. Both exhaust very tight, both intakes a tad tight.
What's the mileage on those heads? And with tight, do you mean no play at all? No play is very bad, a little play is cause for concern. See how quickly they close up. Check at 1,000 mile intervals and take note. Don't let them close up, it means they don't seat at all when warm and can't cool down. Result could be a snapped tulip at speed = mucho dinero... DAMHIK
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:42 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malindi
What's the mileage on those heads? And with tight, do you mean no play at all? No play is very bad, a little play is cause for concern. See how quickly they close up. Check at 1,000 mile intervals and take note. Don't let them close up, it means they don't seat at all when warm and can't cool down. Result could be a snapped tulip at speed = mucho dinero... DAMHIK
Malindi:

Heads were rebuilt about 8K ago per the records I have from the PO. I need to find the receipt to determine exactly what was done. I could not get a .20mm feeler in either of the exhausts. It barely got a .10mm in there. Both of the intakes took a .10mm but I had to really cram it in. I set both exhausts to a loose .20mm and intakes to a loose .10mm. I will check both again in 1K or so.

Thanks,

Tom
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:55 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infracaninophile
Malindi:

Heads were rebuilt about 8K ago per the records I have from the PO. I need to find the receipt to determine exactly what was done. I could not get a .20mm feeler in either of the exhausts. It barely got a .10mm in there. Both of the intakes took a .10mm but I had to really cram it in. I set both exhausts to a loose .20mm and intakes to a loose .10mm. I will check both again in 1K or so.

Thanks,

Tom
Best to get a cheap stack of feeler gauges, a little bundle that fans out from a holder. A few dollars at Pep Boys or somewhere like that. NAPA.. then you can gradually decrease the thickness and see what gets through. I use 6 and 8 thou/inch for in/out. At 8k, the heads should not move anymore. Did you tighten the heads without resetting the valves per chance?
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:56 PM   #65
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don't forget the heat sink paste on the diode board and ICM.

holy crap--I forgot to put heat sink paste on mine. sonofa.....

I read a thread a while back and some of the wiser heads on here said it was alright to grease the ends of the clutch cable(ya know they say not to oil the throttle cables). anyways, greased mine and it feels much easier to pull.

I finally got around to rebuilding my carbs a few weeks back. 4 more MPHs on the top end and 3 more MPGs. used your thread, thanks
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Old 05-27-2009, 03:11 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
don't forget the heat sink paste on the diode board and ICM.

holy crap--I forgot to put heat sink paste on mine. sonofa.....

I read a thread a while back and some of the wiser heads on here said it was alright to grease the ends of the clutch cable(ya know they say not to oil the throttle cables). anyways, greased mine and it feels much easier to pull.

I finally got around to rebuilding my carbs a few weeks back. 4 more MPHs on the top end and 3 more MPGs. used your thread, thanks
Don't forget to lube the clutch cable on BOTH ends... loads of grease in the handle bit where the round part goes in the handle. Heat sink paste on the diode board? hmm.. not.
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Old 05-27-2009, 03:42 PM   #67
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I coulda sworn my maintenance schedule said to put paste on the board, but I checked, and it doesn't.
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Old 05-27-2009, 05:23 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malindi
Best to get a cheap stack of feeler gauges, a little bundle that fans out from a holder. A few dollars at Pep Boys or somewhere like that. NAPA.. then you can gradually decrease the thickness and see what gets through. I use 6 and 8 thou/inch for in/out. At 8k, the heads should not move anymore. Did you tighten the heads without resetting the valves per chance?
Malindi:

Nope, have not touched the heads at all. I'm one of those that doesn't torque heads. On my old 96 R1100GS the heads got torqued by the shop for the 600 mile inspection and never again in the next 105,000 miles. No problems. I don't plan on torqueing the heads on either of my bikes unless I take the top end apart or have a failure.

I have the right feeler gauges but just didn't think to keep trying different ones until it fit. Will do that next time. Lesson learned.

And, after getting the bike to TDC by pulling the spark plugs, putting the bike in 5th gear and rotating the rear wheel... It dawned on me that the G/S has a kick starter and I could just use that to move the timing mark to OT. Duh!

Tom

Infracaninophile screwed with this post 05-27-2009 at 09:53 PM
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:50 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infracaninophile
putting the bike in 5th gear and rotating the rear wheel...
I'm SURE you didn't do this wrong... but. When you found TDC, did you bounce the rear tire to correct overshooting the TDC mark by any chance? To get it CORRECT, you move the tire as it would normally turn as the bike rolls forward until you see the S or Z mark, then slow down a bit as the next guy in the window is the OT mark. If you overshoot on lining up the OT mark, DO NOT rotate the rear wheel backward to align it again. Go around again. If you "went back", remeasure those clearances....
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:54 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infracaninophile
Malindi:

Nope, have not touched the heads at all. I'm one of those that doesn't torque heads. On my old 96 R1100GS the heads got torqued by the shop for the 600 mile inspection and never gain in the next 105,000 miles. No problems. I don't plan on torqueing the heads on either of my bikes unless I take the top end apart or have a failure.

I have the right feeler gauges but just didn't think to keep trying different ones until it fit. Will do that next time. Lesson learned.

And, after getting the bike to TDC by pulling the spark plugs, putting the bike in 5th gear and rotating the rear wheel... It dawned on me that the G/S has a kick starter and I could just use that to move the timing mark to OT. Duh!

Tom
What I do is that after say 10K after a rebuild, I put the torque wrench at 26 ftpounds and see if something moves. I don't back off the bolts, I just see if I can add to it. Of course with the TDC at that side and lifters not touching the valves. And it's a 15 mm bolt. Not something you find in the stock toolkit. In Quetta, I had to get the help of the hotel keeper to find me a 15 mm socket. And I had to, ahum, guess what 26 ftpounds was like. I'd noticed my valves were WAY too loose and it was sign of the heads and cylinder backing off. I had not retightened them since the rebuild. You need to do it once after, not every year.
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Old 05-27-2009, 10:06 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malindi
I'm SURE you didn't do this wrong... but. When you found TDC, did you bounce the rear tire to correct overshooting the TDC mark by any chance? To get it CORRECT, you move the tire as it would normally turn as the bike rolls forward until you see the S or Z mark, then slow down a bit as the next guy in the window is the OT mark. If you overshoot on lining up the OT mark, DO NOT rotate the rear wheel backward to align it again. Go around again. If you "went back", remeasure those clearances....
Malindi:

Nope, didn't go backwards. After I made the adjustments to both sides I rotated the wheel fully 4-5 rotations and then checked all valves again. Had to make one adjustment. Then did it all again until I was all in spec. I knew this little engine was too quiet for it's own good. Glad I hadn't put more than 100 or so miles on it since I bought it.

Tom
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Old 05-28-2009, 06:55 AM   #72
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Finding TDC

The method I use to find TDC is to remove both spark plugs, the front timing cover and using a 6mm allen socket I just rotate the stator. Easy as pie.
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Old 05-28-2009, 06:57 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111
The method I use to find TDC is to remove both spark plugs, the front timing cover and using a 6mm allen socket I just rotate the stator. Easy as pie.
Steve:

I also remove the spark plugs. But then I put the bike in 5th gear and just turn the rear wheel by hand. No front cover to remove as you should disconnect the battery if you remove the front cover. Too much time and effort just to move the engine to the right spot.
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Old 05-28-2009, 07:39 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111
The method I use to find TDC is to remove both spark plugs, the front timing cover and using a 6mm allen socket I just rotate the stator. Easy as pie.
That can work on older engines and a lot of people do it. Newer engines have more friction, certainly post 81 Nikasil lined engines. It's generally not recommended though. If the treads strips in the nose of the crank you have an interesting problem.
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Old 05-28-2009, 07:47 AM   #75
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when Snobum descended from Mt. Sinai with the his tech article commandments one of them recommends not doing that for just such a reason.
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