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Old 05-28-2009, 07:54 AM   #76
Malindi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
when Snobum descended from Mt. Sinai with the his tech article commandments one of them recommends not doing that for just such a reason.
He knows a few things about airheads indeed.... I've met him a few times now. Quiet guy, not as verbose as on the List. :-)
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Old 05-28-2009, 09:06 AM   #77
mcma111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malindi
That can work on older engines and a lot of people do it. Newer engines have more friction, certainly post 81 Nikasil lined engines. It's generally not recommended though. If the treads strips in the nose of the crank you have an interesting problem.
Oh Well. It's worked for me since '79. Never had a problem until the little bolt on the ground to transmission stripped. Just quit removing the ground. The engine turns over quite easily and there is plenty of bolt thread to crank engagement so I don't see how it could strip the crank. It's just a method I have come to use and it works for me. As far as taking the front cover off it's easy with a long 3/8" 5mm allen socket. The cover comes straight forward and down, clear of the diode board. To each their own.
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Old 05-28-2009, 09:48 AM   #78
Malindi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111
Oh Well. It's worked for me since '79. Never had a problem until the little bolt on the ground to transmission stripped. Just quit removing the ground. The engine turns over quite easily and there is plenty of bolt thread to crank engagement so I don't see how it could strip the crank. It's just a method I have come to use and it works for me. As far as taking the front cover off it's easy with a long 3/8" 5mm allen socket. The cover comes straight forward and down, clear of the diode board. To each their own.
On older engines it's not so much of an issue. The nose cones on newer cranks, post 81, are softer. And your iron sleeved motor is easier to turn than Nikasil ones. I think you also have a bit more space to move the cover straight forward. Certainly on the later models, especially those with crashbars, the clamps for those crashbars prevent a straight forward movement of the cover.

But indeed to each their own. I do all sorts of things to my airhead that I would never admit in public but that logically cannot hurt it...
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:37 PM   #79
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Noticed a 81 versus 84 G/S difference. Why?

While examining a 1984 R80 G/S today I noticed the front engine cover was different than my 81. The newer cover has holes on the sides. It this meant for water or something to flow out of? Air?

My 81 Cover: Crappy pic but look at the bottom of the cover.




84 Cover: Notice an opening on each side. Hmmm?






Also found this. My guess is that this was NOT OEM?




My G/S keeps humming along. No work on it other than the fluid changes and valve adjustment months ago. Just keep riding it daily.

Tom
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Old 07-23-2009, 12:38 PM   #80
Caddy82rats
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Light switch : sure not OEM, maybe Suzuki
My G/S had vent at the front cover
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Old 07-23-2009, 01:37 PM   #81
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caddy82rats
Light switch : sure not OEM, maybe Suzuki
My G/S had vent at the front cover
So does my ST.
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:05 PM   #82
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Old 09-28-2009, 12:07 PM   #83
Donmanolo
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My 82 G/S hasn't got any of those vent things which you mention......
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:02 PM   #84
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My 83 ST
92 GS
and the wifes 86 R80

All have these holes in the bottom of the cover.
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Old 11-26-2009, 05:14 PM   #85
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Started the winter tear down.

Have not done much to the G/S since I got it other than adjust the valves and change the fluids. Now that winter is (almost) here have decided to tear it down and do some new stuff I've not done before.

So, off with the seat and tank...






It looked like I could just remove the entire subframe as one piece. Even with the muffler and pannier racks attached. So I undid the one wiring loom connector for the rear lights and then just 5 bolts and one muffler clamp and took the whole thing off in about 15 minutes. Wow, that was pretty easy.






Here you can see the five attachment points for the subframe and the single wiring connector. Of the five connectors, one was threaded and the other four had a bolt, nut, and 2 washers each. I'm not sure if my rear fender is supposed to have that big of a cutout for the rear shock, but mine was able to slip over the shock w/o removing it.




Now the back end of my bike looks like this right now...






More tomorrow I hope.

Tom

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Old 11-26-2009, 09:37 PM   #86
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More details

I removed the rear wheel first to get it out of the way. Three 17mm nuts and it was off. BMW makes this so easy with the single sided swingarm. You can see the nuts and spacers here.




All of the electrical connections from the subframe back on the G/S terminate at this single connector just above the battery box on the left side of the bike. It's the item in the left center of the picture.




On my 81 G/S, the only bolt that is threaded into the frame of the bike is the one on the right side at the top, above the shock:






All of the others are simple bolts and nuts with flat washers on both sides.. Like this one. Both bolt head and nut were 13mm.




I only had to undo one muffler clamp in order for the entire exhaust cannister to come off with the subframe.




Looks like a combination of dirt and rust on the swingarm. I am considering taking the bike down to the frame and would then get this blasted and painted or powercoated. Not sure yet. More interested in the mechanical items right now.




Some rust on the frame and the exhaust collector as well. Not too bad.




I love the rugged looks of the monolever final drive. Looks sturdy. No leaks here that I can see.




Everything in there looks fine to me including the driveshaft boot and speedo boot. But, I need to learn how to take this all apart as I am going to pull the swingarm, final drive, and trannie next.




Not gonna get into the electrical yet, but this doesn't look right to me.




That's it for today. More tomorrow if I have some time.

Tom
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Old 11-26-2009, 10:20 PM   #87
Malindi
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Having ripped a few G/S's apart, I advise you to do EVERYTHING the first time, as you will never go back and remove that swingarm to have it powder coated once you're done with it...

On another note, I'm dealing with some elongated holes on the frame side and swingarm side where the shock attaches. I used fully threaded bolts there and I suspect on my big trip things got worn out of round due to the threads. I have to deal with it yet... Any ideas on what a good solution is for this? Weld and drill the holes properly? A lot of work and dismanteling.. Or is there another way?
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Old 11-27-2009, 04:22 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malindi
Having ripped a few G/S's apart, I advise you to do EVERYTHING the first time, as you will never go back and remove that swingarm to have it powder coated once you're done with it...

On another note, I'm dealing with some elongated holes on the frame side and swingarm side where the shock attaches. I used fully threaded bolts there and I suspect on my big trip things got worn out of round due to the threads. I have to deal with it yet... Any ideas on what a good solution is for this? Weld and drill the holes properly? A lot of work and dismanteling.. Or is there another way?
Put weight on the seat to compress the spring and force the bolt to the top of its elongated hole then tighten.
It doesn't fix it but it takes the knocking noise out.

Check your shock mounting bushes / bearings these are likely worn as well.
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Old 11-27-2009, 04:49 AM   #89
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Nice work
Paris H says Hello from down under




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Old 11-27-2009, 06:59 AM   #90
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Trying to find...

The thread from last winter/this spring of the fellow who rebuilt his G/S. Took it down to the frame and did paint, etc.. and then put back together. Was in the US, middle-age (40-50's) and did a great job. I can't find that thread and wish I could. I think it had the standard G/S tank and can't recall if it was the white tank or blue.

If you're still here, can you point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

Tom
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