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Old 11-27-2009, 11:58 AM   #91
BobLoblaw
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When are you going to get the bathroom/bedroom/dressing room painted and maybe turn the heat up a little
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Old 11-27-2009, 01:08 PM   #92
Malindi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infracaninophile
The thread from last winter/this spring of the fellow who rebuilt his G/S. Took it down to the frame and did paint, etc.. and then put back together. Was in the US, middle-age (40-50's) and did a great job. I can't find that thread and wish I could. I think it had the standard G/S tank and can't recall if it was the white tank or blue.

If you're still here, can you point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

Tom
Maybe this one? www.nohorizons.net
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Old 11-27-2009, 01:09 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rucksta
Put weight on the seat to compress the spring and force the bolt to the top of its elongated hole then tighten.
It doesn't fix it but it takes the knocking noise out.

Check your shock mounting bushes / bearings these are likely worn as well.
Hmmm.. are those the sleeves that are pressed into the ends, where the bolts run through?
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Old 11-28-2009, 12:57 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infracaninophile
The thread from last winter/this spring of the fellow who rebuilt his G/S. Took it down to the frame and did paint, etc.. and then put back together. Was in the US, middle-age (40-50's) and did a great job. I can't find that thread and wish I could. I think it had the standard G/S tank and can't recall if it was the white tank or blue.

If you're still here, can you point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

Tom

I think you mean me, I'm a bit older than that but thanks LOL

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=420630
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Old 11-28-2009, 07:24 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRP
I think you mean me, I'm a bit older than that but thanks LOL

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=420630
Yes, thank you very much.

Tom
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Old 11-28-2009, 04:28 PM   #96
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when you pull the swingarm caps off you'll see this. The big nut on the outside is the 27mm that's a really tight fit. Most sockets won't fit it. JTWind sells a turned down socket or you can grind yours down a bit. The nut goes on a thick pin that the swingarm rotates on. It takes a 6mm allens on the inside of that. When you put it back together you have to line the swingarm up in the frame. That allens in the picture is a 4mm. You tighten up the pins on either side till you get a space that the 4mm allens will just barely fit in on either side. The pins put the preload on the bearings so they have to be torqued to 15 foot pounds. After the swingarm is lined up and the pins torqued the locknuts get torqued at 75 foot/pounds. Check alignment again with the 4mm allens.
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Old 11-28-2009, 04:34 PM   #97
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The gearbox is held on with 4 bolts. The top two go into the airbox and on mine were studs that came out of the block. The nuts can be a pain to get off because you can't get a socket on them. The bottom right is a bolt that goes all the way through and has a nut. On the bottom left it's a bolt that goes into the block. The head will hit the fins on the gearbox when you try to pull it out. I ground a bit off so I could get the bolt off or you can save this bolt for last and pull the gearbox back a little bit to remove it.
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Old 11-28-2009, 04:42 PM   #98
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You have to pull all the clutch bits out to remove the gearbox. I use the handle for a hammer to pry the clutch arm over to remove the clutch cable. Remove the 6m bolt that holds the clutch arm to the gearbox and take the hose clamp off the dust boot. A spring, a cup looking thing and a bearing will come out with it. Inside you'll see a post and a groove that the bearing ran on. That's the clutch rod and it goes all the way through the gearbox and pushes on the clutch spring. Grab it and pull it out.



Before removing the gearbox spin it on it's side and unhook the two connectors for the clutch switch that go on the bottom. Be very careful not to smash that plastic, exposed switch on something as you're monkeying the gearbox out.
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Old 11-28-2009, 05:26 PM   #99
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BG:

Thanks for the help. I think I will have time tomorrow to move forward. If I need the special socket I'll go ahead and order one. I have a 27, just not sure it will fit.

I have never removed the final drive, swingarm, or trannie on an airhead so this will all be new for me. That may mean I'll document the crap out of it so I can get it back together.

Is there anything special to removing the final drive from the back of the swingarm? Looks like 4 funny nuts and that's it. Not sure if there's anything else holding it on there.

Thanks.

Tom
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Old 11-28-2009, 05:54 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infracaninophile
BG:

Thanks for the help. I think I will have time tomorrow to move forward. If I need the special socket I'll go ahead and order one. I have a 27, just not sure it will fit.

I have never removed the final drive, swingarm, or trannie on an airhead so this will all be new for me. That may mean I'll document the crap out of it so I can get it back together.

Is there anything special to removing the final drive from the back of the swingarm? Looks like 4 funny nuts and that's it. Not sure if there's anything else holding it on there.

Thanks.

Tom
Once the swingarm and final drive unit are removed as a piece, the four nuts release the final drive. You'll feel the drive shaft being loose in the housing. This is normal. It won't fall out either. And it will look like you can spin the shaft without the final drive turning. This is normal too. It needs to engage by matter of simply pushing it towards the FD at which point it will engage. If you're going to powdercoat the shaft housing, the shaft needs to be pressed out of the housing. Not hard, but you need a tool and you need to know what you are doing.
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Old 11-28-2009, 06:50 PM   #101
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Is there any reason why I should not remove the final drive from the end of the swingarm before removing the swingarm or trannie? I.E, is there something holding it on there? If not, my impulse would be to remove the FD first and set it aside and then work forward.



I've got a lot to learn.

T.
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Old 11-28-2009, 07:02 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infracaninophile
Is there any reason why I should not remove the final drive from the end of the swingarm before removing the swingarm or trannie? I.E, is there something holding it on there? If not, my impulse would be to remove the FD first and set it aside and then work forward.



I've got a lot to learn.

T.
It's mostly easier to pull release the shock, release the brake actuator (at the FD), and then take the whole thing out once the pivot pins are out. Saves you having to replace a gasket that is not often in stock and goes between the FD and S Arm. Also, those 4 nuts are pesky and you need a very thin 12 point box (the stock tool works) to loosen those buggers, or a very thin and long 12 point box on a wrench. Go with leaving it attached, it's easier.
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Old 11-28-2009, 07:08 PM   #103
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The driveshaft lube is actually drained from the bottom of the final drive. You will want to drain it first, then it is simply a question of unbolting the four bolts. The "coupling" of the final drive/driveshaft is a bell coupling, inside, which just slides out.

Then, when you go to remove the driveshaft, it will be easiest if you, as you say, start at the back... After removing the shock, remove the two swingarm pins and this will allow you to slide the housing back far enough to make it quite easy to un-bolt the four tranny-output/driveshaft bolts.

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Old 11-28-2009, 07:13 PM   #104
Malindi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm
The driveshaft lube is actually drained from the bottom of the final drive. You will want to drain it first, then it is simply a question of unbolting the four bolts. The "coupling" of the final drive/driveshaft is a bell coupling, inside, which just slides out.

Then, when you go to remove the driveshaft, it will be easiest if you, as you say, start at the back... After removing the shock, remove the two swingarm pins and this will allow you to slide the housing back far enough to make it quite easy to un-bolt the four tranny-output/driveshaft bolts.

That seems like a lot of work. Easier to remove the pivot pins, release the shock and pull the whole thing back in one shot.
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Old 11-28-2009, 07:27 PM   #105
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Hmm

If I wasn't planning on blasting/powdercoating the swingarm and many/all of the painted parts, I think I would just leave the FD attached. But since I am, I think my plan of attack would be to:

1. Drain the swingarm (I keep forgetting the G/S has lube in there, but my GS does not).

2. Remove the final drive and set it aside. I will see if the gasket can be reused, if not, add it to the list of part I will need on reassembly.




3. Try removing the swingarm pivot pins with the sockets I have. If that doesn't work, order the tool and any other tools I might need.

4. Examine the bearings/whatever is in there at the pivot points.

5. Unbolt the front of the driveshaft from the rear of the trannie and remove the swingarm.

6. Start in on the trannie and clutch areas.

What kind of special tool is required to remove the driveshaft from the swingarm tunnel?

This is going to be fun and I'm sure I will screw something major up.

T.
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