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Old 04-17-2009, 02:23 AM   #16
minusone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craig.iedema
That to is my worry I am doing a trip across the Simpson Desert (Aus) and am traveling with someone on a 625. Don't want to rely on its battery for a jump start. .
Just keep the 625 running while jumpering - or if that worries you just swap batteries and charge yours for a bit.

Think about the things likely to give you a flat battery and address those - like disconnect headlight always on
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Old 04-17-2009, 02:41 AM   #17
ciedema OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minusone
Just keep the 625 running while jumpering - or if that worries you just swap batteries and charge yours for a bit.

Think about the things likely to give you a flat battery and address those - like disconnect headlight always on
It already has a head light off switch, last time I flattened it by leaving the GPS on overnight, it started, then stalled and wouldn't restart. The idea is to remove the idiot factor (generally the one hanging on to the handlebars) and have a seamless fail over solution. Given that on a long trip I will carry most of my tools in a tool bag anyway under the seat is a perfectly useable space.
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Old 04-17-2009, 02:52 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minusone
Think about the things likely to give you a flat battery and address those - like disconnect headlight always on

Quote:
Originally Posted by craig.iedema
It already has a head light off switch, last time I flattened it by leaving the GPS on overnight, it started, then stalled and wouldn't restart. The idea is to remove the idiot factor (generally the one hanging on to the handlebars) and have a seamless fail over solution. Given that on a long trip I will carry most of my tools in a tool bag anyway under the seat is a perfectly useable space.
Last time, my battery went low when it was lying on its side with the headlight on while i lay 20 feet away with a broken shoulder. Lesson in this case would be "use the headlight switch" and knobbies in the desert/sand.

But many times, the battery has gone low in the winter just because it sat overnight in the cold (desert climate, 3-4DegC). If i'm camping somewhere (remote area, usually riding alone) and the battery goes low due to low temp, there is nothing that i could've done about it, except for not riding to that place, which kinda defeats the whole point of riding. The only option available, would be to have a back up battery or some thing that the subject of this thread.
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Old 04-17-2009, 04:29 AM   #19
stickysidedown
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I've also just had a battery wimp out on me before, happened at three in the morning in the land of the midnight sun, leaking from a terminal post perhaps from some heavy off road abuse two weeks before, man I would have loved that battery then instead of 2 days hitchiking to find a replacement
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Old 04-17-2009, 07:29 PM   #20
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Canadian

Living in Dubai

2 odysseys in parallel

working great!

Heres the link

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=391294
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Old 05-02-2009, 04:23 AM   #21
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Project Started

Okay - I have started on this project.

Upon recommendation of someone who has done a few of these now I have gone with a:

Surepower Battery Isolator

Switches on at 13.2V and off at 12.8V when running my 950 makes 14V even at idle with the headlight on. It has the facility for a light to show it is on and to pull the solenoid in via a seperate switch when the primary battery is dead - so can jump start the bike from the second battery.


The battery I was recommended is a Ritar 1290 AGM battery - I am not sure about this as it is only 9AH (the standard one is 11AH) battery and I can't find any CCA numbers on it. Plus it on has small spade connectors for the terminals. However at $30 (got a trade price for going in with a work shirt on - bonus!) I can a least give it a try.



Which fits in the tool box just fine - leaving plenty of room for the isolator and other stuff.


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Old 05-02-2009, 04:53 AM   #22
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Wiring it up pt1

After taking off both tanks to find out the best place to pick up power from and where to run the wires I decided on picking up the power from the starter relay - plenty of room under the plastic cap and nothing to cut out of the way.


(Sorry it looked clearer on the camera and I am not taking the tank off to get another).

After being told of my stupid mistake of running the negative from the starter relay I relocated the negative correctly (learn to read a multimeter idiot )




I decide to follow the wires that go to the starter motor and continue from there.



I ran a neutral up there also and zip-tied both into place.

There is nice thick insulation on both wires so I have not put another layer over the top. I will check it after a month or so to make sure it looks okay.

That is it so far - remounted the tanks, crash bars etc and put the battery back in and fired it up.

Voltage measured up just fine at ~ 14V.

The easy stuff is next, mount the Isolator and Battery and wire-up. Will post up in the next day or so.

ciedema screwed with this post 05-03-2009 at 01:21 AM
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Old 05-02-2009, 10:34 AM   #23
Vicks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camel990
Canadian

Living in Dubai

2 odysseys in parallel

working great!

Heres the link

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=391294
more details pls.
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'10 KTM 530Exc-Rally, some items for sale
No myriad hues of laser lights, no bottles that are oozing with nectars from heaven
No beautiful body soft and warm to the touch but, i have a very small desire
Give me a dark... long... winding road, three gears to go and my Hellas on fire !!
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Old 05-02-2009, 06:18 PM   #24
Speedzter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craig.iedema

The battery I was recommended is a Ritar 1290 AGM battery - I am not sure about this as it is only 9AH (the standard one is 11AH) battery and I can't find any CCA numbers on it. Plus it on has small spade connectors for the terminals. However at $30 (got a trade price for going in with a work shirt on - bonus!) I can a least give it a try.
You won't find CCA for it as it's not a "starting" battery as such.
I've used two 7Ah UPS batteries like that to start a car though.
The critical thing is not to over charge the battery, but 300mA should be OK.
As long as your equipment doesn't draw to much, otherwise over time you will still flatten the battery.
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Old 05-02-2009, 06:31 PM   #25
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I may be totally wrong, but in the pic it looks like you've run your negative feed from the starter relay ? This would be a problem !!
I would only run a short length straight to a frame/engine bolt for your Neg'.

Quote:
Originally Posted by craig.iedema
After taking off both tanks to find out the best place to pick up power from and where to run the wires I decided on picking up the power from the starter relay - plenty of room under the plastic cap and nothing to cut out of the way.


(Sorry it looked clearer on the camera and I am not taking the tank off to get another).
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Old 05-02-2009, 11:45 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedzter
I may be totally wrong, but in the pic it looks like you've run your negative feed from the starter relay ? This would be a problem !!
I would only run a short length straight to a frame/engine bolt for your Neg'.
I have, but this connects directly to battery negative with same sized wire - I had thought this would be okay (but am happy to be told otherwise).

Yes this was a bit of dickhead mistake to make - maybe I need understand how to read my multi-meter a little better - since the motor windings will give me low resistance back to ground.

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Old 05-03-2009, 01:31 AM   #27
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Glad you have it sorted, I was a bit worried for you there for a while !
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Old 05-03-2009, 01:42 AM   #28
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Wiring it up pt 2

Okay got to spend a few more hours on it this afternoon.

Ran the wires into the front of the toolbox. Need to get a grommet for the hole to protect the wires from rubbing.




Test the fit-up of everything.



Mounted up the isolator - decided to put it in the middle as it makes for easier access for the spade connectors (ground, override, indicator lamp) on the left side of it. I used one of the mounting bolts as common ground.






All fits in nicely.



BTW because of mistake from early I caused the main battery to lose some charge (hope I haven't stuffed it), so I got to do an early test of the system. It all worked as expected.

Need to get some bits to finish the job off.

Still to do -

Tie down the battery.
Connect Push-Button override switch.
Connect lamp to indicate that isolator has connected the secondary battery. The upside of this is that it will function a rudimentary alternator warning - if it doesn't activate shortly after starting I have an issue.

ciedema screwed with this post 05-03-2009 at 02:02 AM
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Old 05-03-2009, 06:13 AM   #29
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[quote=craig.iedema]Need to get a grommet for the hole to protect the wires from rubbing.




Here's a thread on a slightly similar project that Homerj did. He found a nice grommet for his...http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ghlight=homerj
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Old 05-03-2009, 03:49 PM   #30
stickysidedown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camel990
Canadian

Living in Dubai

2 odysseys in parallel

working great!

Heres the link

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=391294
Well I'm not completely nuts, no offence meant referring to you as American

Also remembered rightly not seeing any photos of the set up, lets see em
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