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Old 05-02-2009, 10:41 PM   #1
eakins OP
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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650 strom: what is the recomended

need a baseline. is it 20mm of preload (using the middle point of the adjuster)?
thanks
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Old 05-03-2009, 04:59 AM   #2
tedder
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How much do you weigh? LuggagE? Passenger?

On the stock shock, I almost always ran full preload. But suspension settings are pretty personal. Play with it and see what YOU like.
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Old 05-03-2009, 08:20 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedder
How much do you weigh? LuggagE? Passenger?

On the stock shock, I almost always ran full preload. But suspension settings are pretty personal. Play with it and see what YOU like.
I pretty much ride 1 up with just under full preload. Not sure why though - just like the feel of it. I'm 5'11" and 195lbs. w/ no luggage usually. Full preload w/ luggage though.
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Old 05-03-2009, 08:40 AM   #4
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I'm only 150 - 160 lbs with my gear on and I run the shock with full preload. No need to worry then if I have a passenger hop on
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Old 05-03-2009, 10:15 PM   #5
eakins OP
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everyone i'm talking about cut spacer legnth ie fork preload
NOT where i adjust my suspension.


anyway i went with 16mm with no cap preload which gives me 31mm at full

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Old 05-08-2009, 07:07 AM   #6
Big_John
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Sorry Bill. I just can't remember what I did in terms of length when I went to Sonic Springs.

I am curious what you were doing? Did you add new springs or were you simply trying to get rid of the 'light end' of the stock progressives by lengthening the spacer?

John


Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins
everyone i'm talking about cut spacer legnth ie fork preload
NOT where i adjust my suspension.


anyway i went with 16mm with no cap preload which gives me 31mm at full

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Old 05-08-2009, 10:44 AM   #7
bretoneer
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Preload vs sag

I think a point that is missing from this conversation is the amount of rider sag, which will in turn determine how much preload you actually need to achieve this. Spacer length plays in to this equation in regard to how many turns you need to take on your caps.

If you are an average sized American male this will be somewhat hard to achieve with stock springs. Recommended rider sag (e.g. a fully loaded bike with rider and gear and full tank of gas) is about 45mm up front and 35mm out back. That from several of the reputable spring/suspension shops.

I swapped out the stock progressive springs up front for .95kg/mms from Sonic, dropped oil to 150mm and used 10wt Amsoil rather than the recommended 15 (or was it 20?) wt. I can now maintain 45mm of sag with very little preload with just me on the bike with a full tank of gas, and the bike is night and day apart from stock. The lighter weight oil with a lower volume has made the bike very plush off road even with the stock damper rods with no modifications (e.g. no drilling of the rod base).

I haven't tried the valves Bill has installed on his bike, I suspect they would help with fork dive, which on my bike is now better than stock but not as firm as it might be with some nice valving system such as Bill mentions. However, I am just as interested in plushness on washboard and rocky dirt roads so that trade off is not worth it to me so far. I am very pleased with the setup I have at present.

P.S. I also replaced the rear spring with a 25% heavier spring rate when I did the front end (boy was that fun!), with a straight rate spring like the fronts, and that improved the plushness off road as well since the spring is starting higher in it's stroke, with no progressive stiffness as it compresses. The stock shock is "adequate" to control the rear end both on road and off.

Of course, the ultimate solution would be an adjustable front and rear with both high and low speed damping capability to really get the most out of both on road and choppy off road conditions, but those kinds of dollars add up real quick and I prefer to just ride rather than spend too much time and cash tinkering.

With that said, I have considered having a rear shock built by one of the reputable companies with adjustable high and low speed damping, and that may come at some point. Bill's experience with the new front end valves also sounds very interesting. However, after having had the bike for 3+ years and approaching 20k miles I haven't done it yet and at this rate probably won't ever get around to it
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Old 05-08-2009, 07:49 PM   #8
eakins OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTNAdventureRider
Sorry Bill. I just can't remember what I did in terms of length when I went to Sonic Springs.

I am curious what you were doing? Did you add new springs or were you simply trying to get rid of the 'light end' of the stock progressives by lengthening the spacer?

John
i was installing these.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=461908
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AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=956350
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Old 05-08-2009, 07:53 PM   #9
eakins OP
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in the end i really needed a minimum number to use with no cap preload.
that number was 15mm which translated to 30mm max.

of course rider weight sag is ultimate test. with this range most can get close with stock springs (which is the intial tuning goal w/ imtiminators).

of course big fat guys & skinny waifs need additonal help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bretoneer
I think a point that is missing from this conversation is the amount of rider sag, which will in turn determine how much preload you actually need to achieve this. Spacer length plays in to this equation in regard to how many turns you need to take on your caps.

If you are an average sized American male this will be somewhat hard to achieve with stock springs. Recommended rider sag (e.g. a fully loaded bike with rider and gear and full tank of gas) is about 45mm up front and 35mm out back. That from several of the reputable spring/suspension shops.

I swapped out the stock progressive springs up front for .95kg/mms from Sonic, dropped oil to 150mm and used 10wt Amsoil rather than the recommended 15 (or was it 20?) wt. I can now maintain 45mm of sag with very little preload with just me on the bike with a full tank of gas, and the bike is night and day apart from stock. The lighter weight oil with a lower volume has made the bike very plush off road even with the stock damper rods with no modifications (e.g. no drilling of the rod base).

I haven't tried the valves Bill has installed on his bike, I suspect they would help with fork dive, which on my bike is now better than stock but not as firm as it might be with some nice valving system such as Bill mentions. However, I am just as interested in plushness on washboard and rocky dirt roads so that trade off is not worth it to me so far. I am very pleased with the setup I have at present.

P.S. I also replaced the rear spring with a 25% heavier spring rate when I did the front end (boy was that fun!), with a straight rate spring like the fronts, and that improved the plushness off road as well since the spring is starting higher in it's stroke, with no progressive stiffness as it compresses. The stock shock is "adequate" to control the rear end both on road and off.

Of course, the ultimate solution would be an adjustable front and rear with both high and low speed damping capability to really get the most out of both on road and choppy off road conditions, but those kinds of dollars add up real quick and I prefer to just ride rather than spend too much time and cash tinkering.

With that said, I have considered having a rear shock built by one of the reputable companies with adjustable high and low speed damping, and that may come at some point. Bill's experience with the new front end valves also sounds very interesting. However, after having had the bike for 3+ years and approaching 20k miles I haven't done it yet and at this rate probably won't ever get around to it
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Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Cycle World Adventure Rally:
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