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Old 03-29-2010, 01:41 PM   #31
The Griz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpracer171
Griz,

Could you repost the Zip Tie of the rotors pics? they are not working.
I cannot find those pics anymore. However, this, as it did for me, will confirm that the culprit is indeed the movement in the rotors. On these rotors, there is such a large gap between the rotor base (black part) and rotor (silver) that too much movement is allowed. So much movement that they in fact make a serious amount of noise when going over bumps. Now multiply that noise x2 because there's two rotors up front! I took a pic from another thread and illustrated what needs to be done with the zip tie. The red arrow is pointing to the gap between the black fixed part of the rotor and the silver floating part of the rotor. The other red illustration is mimicking how the zip tie needs to be mounted. You need a zip tie that is fat enough to fill the gap between the rotor base and rotor (red arrow). Too fat and it won't go in (that's what she said), too narrow and it won't restrict the rotor movement and the test won't work. Trim the zip tie and make sure it's oriented in a way as to not restrict the wheel from turning. You'll need to place several zip ties in the place indicated around the rotor as to fully restrict rotor "play". Go for a ride, and enjoy the sounds of silence as you go over bumps..... Unfortunately, the zip ties can't stay on. Too bad BMW/Brembo made these rotors so "loose".

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Old 03-29-2010, 02:04 PM   #32
gpracer171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Griz
I cannot find those pics anymore. However, this, as it did for me, will confirm that the culprit is indeed the movement in the rotors. On these rotors, there is such a large gap between the rotor base (black part) and rotor (silver) that too much movement is allowed. So much movement that they in fact make a serious amount of noise when going over bumps. Now multiply that noise x2 because there's two rotors up front! I took a pic from another thread and illustrated what needs to be done with the zip tie. The red arrow is pointing to the gap between the black fixed part of the rotor and the silver floating part of the rotor. The other red illustration is mimicking how the zip tie needs to be mounted. You need a zip tie that is fat enough to fill the gap between the rotor base and rotor (red arrow). Too fat and it won't go in (that's what she said), too narrow and it won't restrict the rotor movement and the test won't work. Trim the zip tie and make sure it's oriented in a way as to not restrict the wheel from turning. You'll need to place several zip ties in the place indicated around the rotor as to fully restrict rotor "play". Go for a ride, and enjoy the sounds of silence as you go over bumps..... Unfortunately, the zip ties can't stay on. Too bad BMW/Brembo made these rotors so "loose".

Why can't the zip ties stay on?
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Old 03-29-2010, 02:14 PM   #33
The Griz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpracer171
Why can't the zip ties stay on?
Restricting the rotors from floating will cause odd or uneven brake pad and rotor wear. It also strays from the intended design, and I don't like to do that. I've had bad luck in the past using things in ways they aren't designed for. On these brakes the caliper and the rotor both float, I'd leave it that way. I just needed to know what the noise making culprit was. Now that I know it's the rotors, the noise doesn't bother me anymore, because I know that it's not something bad or something falling apart! It's just the floating rotors doing what they do best: float! It's just that they float a lot... and too easily.
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:43 AM   #34
LaPorte
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Griz
Restricting the rotors from floating will cause odd or uneven brake pad and rotor wear. It also strays from the intended design, and I don't like to do that. I've had bad luck in the past using things in ways they aren't designed for. On these brakes the caliper and the rotor both float, I'd leave it that way. I just needed to know what the noise making culprit was. Now that I know it's the rotors, the noise doesn't bother me anymore, because I know that it's not something bad or something falling apart! It's just the floating rotors doing what they do best: float! It's just that they float a lot... and too easily.
If you could find a rubber plug the same thickness of the rotor that would push into the opening of the wheel hub/rotor connection points (where you show the zip tie). That would dampen the rattling of the rotor and still allow it to float. Question is, how long would they stay there before they popped out?

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Old 05-21-2011, 04:03 PM   #35
Singletrack_mind
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Klack stoppers stopped it . . . now it's back

Just wondering if anyone else had this experience: I installed Best Rest's "Klack Stoppers" and they reduced the noise by about 90%; to the point that I rarely heard anything at all. But, over the next 1000 miles, the noise slowly came back. I'd say now it's about 75% of what it was before installing the klack stoppers.

Anyone?

BTW: when installing these things, a great tool to use instead of a conventional 13mm wrench is a 13mm bearing cone wrench designed for bicycles. It's a very thin flat open end wrench designed to slip onto the flats of a bearing cone behind it's lock nut. They are about 2.5mm thick & available from any good bike shop if you don't happen to have one.

Also, just to stop it before it starts, yes, I am sure the noise is from the spacers, not the brake rotors. My brake rotors are quite snug and make no noise at all.
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Old 05-22-2011, 06:39 PM   #36
The Griz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Singletrack_mind View Post
Just wondering if anyone else had this experience: I installed Best Rest's "Klack Stoppers" and they reduced the noise by about 90%; to the point that I rarely heard anything at all. But, over the next 1000 miles, the noise slowly came back. I'd say now it's about 75% of what it was before installing the klack stoppers.

Anyone?

BTW: when installing these things, a great tool to use instead of a conventional 13mm wrench is a 13mm bearing cone wrench designed for bicycles. It's a very thin flat open end wrench designed to slip onto the flats of a bearing cone behind it's lock nut. They are about 2.5mm thick & available from any good bike shop if you don't happen to have one.

Also, just to stop it before it starts, yes, I am sure the noise is from the spacers, not the brake rotors. My brake rotors are quite snug and make no noise at all.
That's because the source of the clack noise/feel is not inside the forks!

It's the movement floating front brake rotors.

I hate to say it because David Peterson at Best Rest runs a great business and is a great guy, but the 'klack stoppers' are pointless.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ighlight=clack
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Old 05-22-2011, 07:27 PM   #37
dendrophobe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Griz View Post
That's because the source of the clack noise/feel is not inside the forks!

It's the movement floating front brake rotors.

I hate to say it because David Peterson at Best Rest runs a great business and is a great guy, but the 'klack stoppers' are pointless.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ighlight=clack
Respectfully, I disagree.

The floating brake rotors do have the tendency to make a similar clacking noise, but in my experience not as much. When I installed my Klack Stoppers, most of the noise went away. It's not that they are pointless, they just don't solve everything. However, getting rid of one out of two things making a similar noise is pretty darn good IMO.
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:32 PM   #38
The Griz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dendrophobe View Post
Respectfully, I disagree.

The floating brake rotors do have the tendency to make a similar clacking noise, but in my experience not as much. When I installed my Klack Stoppers, most of the noise went away. It's not that they are pointless, they just don't solve everything. However, getting rid of one out of two things making a similar noise is pretty darn good IMO.
If you are getting ANY clacking from inside the forks open them up and make sure the black x-shaped spring guides are clicked down into place on the damping rods. If they are like they should be, there will be absolutely NO noise emanating from the inside of the forks. Therefore, the klack stoppers are pointless.

Read my write up in the link above. It is 100% accurate and the truth. Read it thoroughly. If the forks are assembled correctly from Marzocchi, they will make no noise from inside, leaving only the floating brake rotors to clack.

If you were to mix the sound of the unseated spring guides inside the forks and the floating front brake rotors together, the ratio of sound would be 90% floating front brake rotors / 10 unseated spring guides. Once the spring guides are properly seated on the damping rod as they should be, the noise is 100% floating front brake rotors.

In conclusion, don't waste money on two rubber bushings when you can simply click/seat the black x-shaped spring guides into place on the damping rods.
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Old 05-23-2011, 05:17 AM   #39
fiwi
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Geez, hasnt this one been done to death?. If people want to believe that the noise comes from inside the forks, let them believe it. Im with you Griz, I know its the rotors and am happy with the fact that there is no fault with the bike. As someone previously said, apply your front brakes slightly when you come to a point on the road that you know will make the noise, no noise, tight as!.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:35 AM   #40
fractalsource
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Clackless in Idaho

Clackless in Idaho.

From the day I bought my 2011 F800GS with 66 miles on it, I had a clacking sound in the front end, especially when going on washboard roads or hitting speed bumps or potholes. I tried a lot of different things to silence the noise. Clackstoppers, velcro tape on various areas of the bike, etc. I discovered my radiator screen, bottom center mounting bolt was missing. Replaced that.
- Still my clacking persisted.
It sounded like cheap plastic parts hitting one another.
I found the noise terribly distracting and annoying.
Finally I found out the source of my clack.
It was the front floating brake disks.
For now, I have no more clack.
I bought 20 pound double-stick foam tape, from the local building supply store and cut 1/4 inch slices of it and stretched it, so it was thin enough to slide between the space causing the clack on the front floating brake disks.
After I released the tape it expanded and then, I trimmed off the excess with scissors. No Clack.
I'm looking for a permanent solution. Like, front brake disks that do not clack.
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:59 PM   #41
costas68gr
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Clackless in Idaho.

From the day I bought my 2011 F800GS with 66 miles on it, I had a clacking sound in the front end, especially when going on washboard roads or hitting speed bumps or potholes. I tried a lot of different things to silence the noise. Clackstoppers, velcro tape on various areas of the bike, etc. I discovered my radiator screen, bottom center mounting bolt was missing. Replaced that.
- Still my clacking persisted.
It sounded like cheap plastic parts hitting one another.
I found the noise terribly distracting and annoying.
Finally I found out the source of my clack.
It was the front floating brake disks.
For now, I have no more clack.
I bought 20 pound double-stick foam tape, from the local building supply store and cut 1/4 inch slices of it and stretched it, so it was thin enough to slide between the space causing the clack on the front floating brake disks.
After I released the tape it expanded and then, I trimmed off the excess with scissors. No Clack.
I'm looking for a permanent solution. Like, front brake disks that do not clack. [/QUOTE]

PERNAMENT SOLUTION i do that and i forget this f@@@@ing noise i press little more the braking rotors with manual hydraulic tablet press The floating rotors are loose check some floating rotors from anther company like yamaha or suzuki its not 'playing" by hand!!!!!!!!! f800gs rotors is playing by hand i hope to help you!!!!! i have more 2000miles with out noise or any change on breaking!!!!:cl ap
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:55 PM   #42
fractalsource
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PERNAMENT SOLUTION I do that and I forget this f@@@@ing noise I press little more the braking rotors with manual hydraulic tablet press The floating rotors are loose check some floating rotors from anther company like yamaha or suzuki its not 'playing" by hand!!!!!!!!! f800gs rotors is playing by hand I hope to help you!!!!! I have more 2000miles with out noise or any change on breaking!!!!:


In response to Wonderful Greece:

Good idea.
I'm going to press the rivets on the brake rotors with a table vice, or a manual hydraulic tablet press as you described. My 20 pound double stick mounting tape stops the noise, - but the tape eventually works free and it is back to that noise again. Clack, clack, clack.
It's either that, or I spend $500.00 on new disks.
The owner of my local BMW Dealership said he has no idea what I'm referring to. He said no one else with an F800 has mentioned the problem, and that I should just put in some ear plugs.

I'll report back with my results.
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Old 07-12-2012, 04:20 AM   #43
costas68gr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fractalsource View Post
PERNAMENT SOLUTION I do that and I forget this f@@@@ing noise I press little more the braking rotors with manual hydraulic tablet press The floating rotors are loose check some floating rotors from anther company like yamaha or suzuki its not 'playing" by hand!!!!!!!!! f800gs rotors is playing by hand I hope to help you!!!!! I have more 2000miles with out noise or any change on breaking!!!!:


In response to Wonderful Greece:

Good idea.
I'm going to press the rivets on the brake rotors with a table vice, or a manual hydraulic tablet press as you described. My 20 pound double stick mounting tape stops the noise, - but the tape eventually works free and it is back to that noise again. Clack, clack, clack.
It's either that, or I spend $500.00 on new disks.
The owner of my local BMW Dealership said he has no idea what I'm referring to. He said no one else with an F800 has mentioned the problem, and that I should just put in some ear plugs.

I'll report back with my results.
Found an old bold(or old pin) the outside of bolt must see like the O.D (2-3mm biger of rivet is ideal)of rivets measure the internal dimesion of rivets and give this bolt to workshop make a small pin you need this small pin to have all the time when press the bold stable and at centre of rivet!!!!!and press the surface of rivet correct
Press the first rivet in stages and check it!!!! dont over press!!!!!!!!!!! to much!!!!!!! you need a litle play of rotors also check and the pressure gauge and press all the same pressure!!!!!! or weight deepent what gauge have the hydraulic table press.My rivets pressured at 7000kg
I hope to help you and sorry for my bad english!!!!!!
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