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Old 07-05-2009, 11:49 AM   #181
FREDO RIDER
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WOW !
Great ride report Thanks.
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Old 07-05-2009, 01:48 PM   #182
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Awesome update! thanks for the details and the great pics

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Old 07-05-2009, 05:47 PM   #183
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This is the best report ever and awsome pics.
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:05 PM   #184
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Kemaliye

Kemaliye

Kemaliye is obviously named after some very famous Mustafa Kemal and was formerly known as Eğin. The reason I chose to come here is the Kemaliyeliler Tasyolu, the “Rock Road”. The road was cut by the locals with no government support over a 130 period. By the time it was finally opened in 2002 it wasn’t technically needed anymore because there are now other roads to the town. The story goes that the locals decided to finish the road anyway out of respect for their forefathers, which leaves us with one hell of a road to ride a motorcycle on. For the most part it’s a long tunnel cut close to the Euphrates. There are openings in the side of the tunnels, which where used to push the debris down into the river. The narrow tunnels have a great acoustic and if you hit the revs just right you will hear, or shall I say feel, a very deep roar. Before I even got a room I rode the Tasyol twice. I got some last minute information at the local store. Some old geezers where hanging out and when they found out I was German they pushed one forward. His German was a little rusty and he didn’t say much. I went outside to eat my ice cream and the old fella came out to chat. Now that the others weren’t looking on his German was actually quite good. He told me his story, how he worked in Germany for a long time and came back here to his local village for retirement. He seemed a very happy man.


Anyway, here are the pitures of the “Rock Road”












































I eventually got a very nice room. This is the view from my hotel balcony





Kemaliye is a fun town to walk around in. The locals are friendly and for the most part the houses are very nice to look at. Just walking up the narrow winding streets there something new to be discovered around every corner.


























The Kiwi in me gives three cheers for using corrugated iron as an architectural feature. They even have a corrugated iron minaret!








One of the many water fountains





Before I can see it I hear the distinct sound of a watermill. The guy invites me in and gives the grand tour.





He even gets me a walnut paste sample from next door, telling me that it is an aphrodisiac. Well, that’s a bit of a lost cause.





I always thought rear view mirrors are purely ornamental in Turkey. This guy has a lot.




Still not convinced.
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Old 07-06-2009, 12:44 AM   #185
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This has to be a top-ten must-ride ADVroad.
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Old 07-06-2009, 11:56 AM   #186
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I just met up with Steff here in Ankara where he is staying for a couple nights to get minor work done on the bike. I think I was speaking for many ADVRiders when I thanked him for the report and the outstanding pics.
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Old 07-06-2009, 01:46 PM   #187
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by strommer
I just met up with Steff here in Ankara where he is staying for a couple nights to get minor work done on the bike.
Yes, fun times in Ankara. Big thank you goes to inmate strommer for helping with the new boots and lining up services for me in Van and Ankara, and for buying me lunch
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Old 07-06-2009, 02:18 PM   #188
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Kemaliye to Göreme

Kemaliye to Göreme




I start the day by riding the Tasyol once again and continue on to Divriği,








where I visit the Great Mosque and Hospital (Divriği Ulu Cami ve Darüşşifa), a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was built in the 13th century under a Seljuk ruler. Outside shots would have been great in the evening sun but I have to make the best of it.





Kids noisily play catch inside the mosque.








There are also plenty of other ruins around Divriği.





Pretty nice landscape between Divriği and Kengal,





where I’m greeted by a whimsical statue of the famous Kangal dog.





I have to say that the Kangals and I are not the best of friends. I used to think that Turkish sheep dogs are incredibly stupid because they can’t tell the difference between a sheep and a motorbike, whereas the New Zealand sheep dogs clearly can. Many a Kengal has chased me here. Well, it turns out they are not sheep dogs in the sense that they are herding their charges. Instead they are livestock guardian dogs and thus try to protect their charges from real or imagined threats, i.e. me on a motorbike. You just don’t want to hit a Kangal when it runs in front of you. Not good for both of us. They are huge and they can be incredibly fast.


It stays nice and quiet






until I hit Kayseri. I get a bit of a reverse culture shock. It’s a huge modern city with all the modern trappings like shopping malls, car dealerships, and fast food places. Oh, and heavy traffic. Welcome back to civilization!
From Kayseri it’s just a quick hop to Göreme, where I plunk myself at the pool and do nothing for the rest of the day.
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Old 07-06-2009, 02:27 PM   #189
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Rock on, Steffen! Enjoy the bright sunshine and the heat, because....well, you know why.

I thought of you as the new season of TopGear started. Still, CommShop Theater is it's own unique venue.

This is a great report. I'm inside reading it instead of working on my KLR. Departure is imminent. If I can leave the computer.

This is one of the great RRs. I'd expect nothing less.
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Old 07-06-2009, 05:30 PM   #190
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Well done!


I've spent this rainy afternoon reading your ride report! So well done! Great photos, and a lot of information about culture and architecture....
An amazing story about having your boots stolen! You have some grand adventure stories to tell later on when you get back! Enjoy the trip and keep on posting! So looking forward to the next installment.....
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Old 07-08-2009, 07:27 AM   #191
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Wow this is really neat! As an American it would probably be unwise for me to visit Iran. But as a citizen of Germany you are accepted readily enough and can move about with less concern. You even felt comfortable going to the police when that guy stole your boots! Frankly I would have viewed the theft as just the cost of traveling in Iran and left it at that! I expected to read it was YOU the authorities decided to throw in jail! Or maybe the thiefs family/friends would take revenge. Or possibly the thief would have his right hand cut off! But nothing like that happened!
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Old 07-09-2009, 04:02 AM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpitfireTriple
Couldn't have put it better myself. The photos - once you click on them - are so, so good.

I'm no fan of vandalism or graffitti. But I myself am prepared to make an exception when there's some history behind it:


The Skull and Crossbones is the regimental badge of what is now called the Queen's Royal Lancers. "Death or Glory" is their motto. The QRL incorporates 17/21st Lancers, previously 17th Lancers, previously 17th Light Dragoons. Hence the "17th L.D." in the picture.

17LD were involved in the American War of Independence:
A decade after formation, the Light Dragoons were in action in British-ruled America. Their best achievement was routing a large militia force of 450 men in Philadelphia, losing just nine out of their 300 soldiers. But they were also at the heart of Britain’s ultimate surrender to America as political tides turned in 1781. Captain Stapleton of the 17th handed over the copy of British capitulation to George Washington.

Then


Now. Back in Persia, 200 years on


Dragoons were soldiers who rode into battle but fought on foot.
Not much changes.

Note the date



A detachment of 17LD were sent as bodyguard for Sir Harford Jones's
1810 diplomatic mission to the Court of Qajar.
Sir Harford rejoiced in the title Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to Persia. Not a man to be mucked about, then.

Here he is again (in the middle), in 1808 at the Court of Fat'h Ali Shah

Sir Harford's main achievement was getting the Persians to sign a treaty which effectively denied France a land route to India. He also arranged for British instructors to train the Persian army. Setting the scene for two centuries of British involvement in and dominance over Persia/Iran/Iraq. Culminating in this week's Tehran burning of British flags.

Funny isn't it? We wouldn't have known any of this had an English fool not 200 years ago carved his name on a piece of rock.

SpitfireTriple,

Care to buy Sir Harford's letters and documents?

Up for auction at Sotheby's in a couple of days. Not cheap, but it would supply you with all (and more than) you need to write a script for a multi-million earning movie!




View Zoom/Large Image
LOT 6

PROPERTY OF A GENTLEMAN
# - JONES, SIR HARFORD (LATER SIR HARFORD JONES BRYDGES).
HIS PERSONAL AND OFFICIAL PAPERS AS EAST INDIA COMPANY FACTOR AT BASRA, RESIDENT AT BAGHDAD AND MINISTER PLENIPOTENTIARY TO THE PERSIAN COURT, COMPRISING OVER 3100 ITEMS AND PROVIDING INTRICATELY DETAILED INSIGHTS INTO TRADE AND DIPLOMACY IN THE MIDDLE EAST FROM 1783 TO 1811, AND DEFENSIVE NETWORKS RAISED AGAINST THE NAPOLEONIC THREAT

150,000—200,000 GBP

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Old 07-09-2009, 05:04 AM   #193
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Amazing!

Bit out of my price bracket though!
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Old 07-09-2009, 09:08 AM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpitfireTriple


This has to be a top-ten must-ride ADVroad.
I'd say so. This road is only about 9km but the whole area is nice! Definitely one of my favorite spots in Turkey, which is a tough call because all of Turkey is a biker heaven, even with the fuel price and a 70km/h speed limit.

Cheers,
Steff
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Old 07-09-2009, 09:12 AM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jigdog
Wow this is really neat! As an American it would probably be unwise for me to visit Iran. But as a citizen of Germany you are accepted readily enough and can move about with less concern. You even felt comfortable going to the police when that guy stole your boots! Frankly I would have viewed the theft as just the cost of traveling in Iran and left it at that! I expected to read it was YOU the authorities decided to throw in jail! Or maybe the thiefs family/friends would take revenge. Or possibly the thief would have his right hand cut off! But nothing like that happened!
I doubt that you would have a problem as an American once you are in the country. Iranians love foreigners and on a one-on-one level the BS their president spouts on the world stage doesn't affect you at all. It's just a bit tougher (i.e. more expensive) to get in.
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