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Old 07-09-2009, 10:16 AM   #196
Boarder06 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldergeek
Rock on, Steffen! Enjoy the bright sunshine and the heat, because....well, you know why.

I thought of you as the new season of TopGear started. Still, CommShop Theater is it's own unique venue.

This is a great report. I'm inside reading it instead of working on my KLR. Departure is imminent. If I can leave the computer.

This is one of the great RRs. I'd expect nothing less.
Are you keeping a copy of TopGear for me, which I can pick up at the Trashmetal party at your house in Fall? JT III and Deb are out in the US somewhere on their Suzukies. You got to go! Best of luck, maybe I join you in CA for some fun for a couple of weeks.

Cheers,
Steff
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:20 AM   #197
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I've been slacking off on the reports lately. Basically I took a lot of pictures in Cappadocia, which will take me a while to go through if I want to keep things in chronological order. I'm currently in Istanbul and all is well. Stay tuned, there is good stuff to come. Flying cows and male rituals in a body repair shop ...
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:44 AM   #198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boarder06
Flying cows and male rituals in a body repair shop ...
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Old 07-09-2009, 08:54 PM   #199
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Originally Posted by Boarder06
I doubt that you would have a problem as an American once you are in the country. Iranians love foreigners and on a one-on-one level the BS their president spouts on the world stage doesn't affect you at all. It's just a bit tougher (i.e. more expensive) to get in.
Well that is good to hear and seeing the pictures of the people there they seem like anybody else. I do wish they would stop with the "Death To America" stuff though.
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Old 07-10-2009, 06:45 AM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boarder06
I've been slacking off on the reports lately. Basically I took a lot of pictures in Cappadocia, which will take me a while to go through if I want to keep things in chronological order. I'm currently in Istanbul and all is well. Stay tuned, there is good stuff to come. Flying cows and male rituals in a body repair shop ...
Take your time, enjoy the ride!
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Old 07-10-2009, 08:39 AM   #201
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I get so PO'ed reading reports like this

Why won't Yamaha import this bike to the US? It looks killer. Oh, yeah, and the ride report is incredible too . I wish I had a bike like this stashed in Europe somewhere. I guess I need to get a pasport first.
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Old 07-12-2009, 01:50 PM   #202
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Cappadocia I

Cappadocia I

My favorite döner kebab place in Christchurch has a very faded poster of Cappadocia. I’ve stared at it many times and dreamed of going there while munching a döner after a night out in town. I’m a big believer in using cheesy tourist posters in fast food joints to guide your travel decisions My favorite Lebanese food stand got me riding a snowboard in Lebanon earlier this year and many years ago I decided to go to Thailand in the same way. I haven’t been disappointed yet.


So here I am in Cappadocia, enjoying life. I found a nice spot, overlooking some nice rock formations, at the top notch, yet cheap Kaya campground. I leave my panniers at the campground and explore the area for several days. Cappadocia is riddled with often very sandy dirt roads, which just beg to be explored. There is a particularly nice one starting just outside the campground. At one point it becomes a narrow twisting channel, not unlike a bob sledding track. So lots of fun here. There is also a big pool and cheap cold beer.


So, here are, in no particular order, a few pictures from my time in Cappadocia.












































































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Old 07-12-2009, 04:28 PM   #203
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Cappadocia II

Cappadocia II

Cappadocia was an early center of Christianity and many of the early followers were forced into hiding in underground cities at times. I visit a large one in Derinkuyu, which consists of eight levels. The doors could be closed from the inside by rolling huge grindstones in front of the opening.















The smaller underground city in Mazi isn’t really touristically developed. It’s a matter of finding a villager to show me around with a gas light. He pantomimes some explanations and this works surprisingly well.











The area has an amazing number of churches from different periods of time, decorated in varying styles.














Benches and a table are cut into the rock.




















Some of the best preserved frescoes are in the dark church,














but there are many other churches in the area.








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Old 07-12-2009, 04:30 PM   #204
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Göreme to Ankara


In the morning a chat a bit with my new neighbors, a couple on a GS. We talk about tire karma and I admit that I haven’t had a flat yet. I say me goodbyes and start breaking down camp. As usual I do a quick inspection of the bike and notice a missing screw on an purely ornamental piece of plastic, a broken weld on one of the pannier racks, and a flat rear tire. So, sheepishly I go back to my neighbors and ask if we can use their side stand to unseat the tire. Sure glad I had some help and a could borrow a longer tire iron.








The tire won’t reseat properly and we decide that “more air faster” is what is needed. Luckily, there is a big German overland truck around with a big compressor, which does the trick.
With the tire fixed I have a start much later than usual and it’s plenty hot by the time I roll out of the campground. Inmate strommer suggested a more scenic route to Ankara (Thanks!).











I stop to look at a Seljuk bridge near Ankara.





On the way into town I look for the Yamaha dealer I need to see the next day to pick up new rear brake pads. After I find the dealer I look for a reasonably priced hotel, which takes me quite a while. I eventually score with underground parking and double glazing in a vibrant neighborhood.
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Old 07-12-2009, 11:14 PM   #205
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Boarder06,

Thank you for submitting your excellent RR. You have unwittingly provided me with all the details I need for an upcoming tour.

Keep safe,

Cheers,

Dickyb
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Old 07-12-2009, 11:17 PM   #206
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Ankara

Ankara

By pure accident I ended up in a nice lively neighborhood of Ankara. Just around the corner are a bunch of used book sellers. This finally gives me the chance to update my treeware.





I see a couple of outdoor places where people play PS3, mostly football, on huge flatscreens.





Others play the old fashioned way.





The next day I pick up my brake pads. When throttling off, especially when down shifting in low gear the engine died quite a few times recently. They diagnose a broken throttle sensor and they don’t have a replacement there. I’ll have to have this taken care off in Istanbul. Another customer on a TDM takes me to a muffler shop where I have my pannier rack welded. Only five minutes and five liras. ADVRider.com inmate strommer, who has helped me quite a bit on this trip, meets at the shop and takes me out for lunch and real coffee. Thanks for everything strommer!


In the afternoon I make a trip to Anitkabir, the Atatürk mausoleum. There is a steady stream of visitors and it is most interesting to see how the Turks react. Atatürk is still much loved and respected although he died more than 70 years ago. If you travel in Turkey you see his image everywhere. Inside the museum are some panoramas of battle scenes with battle noise from speakers. It is realistic and gruesome enough that many of the smaller kids start crying.














Later, I wander around Ankara some more and come across the new Kocatepe Mosque.


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Old 07-13-2009, 10:32 AM   #207
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Old 07-16-2009, 02:43 AM   #208
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Great trip and amazing report..... thanks so much for sharing!!
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Old 02-12-2010, 01:45 PM   #209
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So what do you think about the bike? Would you ride the same once again?
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Old 03-18-2010, 02:59 PM   #210
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OK, let me finish this ride report

It has been a while since my last post to this ride report. What can say? My intention was to post as I went along. I know from past travels that it is next to impossible for me to work on pictures and notes once life in the “real world” catches up with me. I did pretty well on this trip until I installed a software update in Istanbul. I had a nice work flow where I could just post by email and it would automatically show up on my blog and from there it was a simple cut and paste job for this thread. That way I could cut down on Internet time. After all, the idea is to be out and about and not holed up in an Internet cafe. When I finally had my computer back in shape I was so hopelessly behind that I abandoned the plan to post while on the road. Now I’m finally sufficiently settled back into real life that I find the time to add my old journal entries.
Many thanks to those of you who made a donation to the Jake Speed Fund (see signature below). I’m happy to report that we collected roughly US$36,000 and Jake has made great progress in his rehab. He went surfing one week after having his legs fitted and I have caught up with him a few times since. He’s out and about cycling, kayaking, four wheeling, fishing and generally enjoying life one day at a time. Next big goal is to get him back to the South Pole to work in his old job.








Once again: Thank you, thank you, thank you
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