ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Riding > Ride reports
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-07-2009, 11:06 AM   #106
Boarder06 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Boarder06's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Cambridge, MA
Oddometer: 238
Naqsh-e Rustam

Naqsh-e Rustam

During my stay in at Persepolis I ride the few kilometers to Naqsh-e Rustam a couple of times to see the magnificent rock tombs of the Achaemenid kings. After the kings bones were picked clean by vultures, according to their Zoroastrian beliefs, they were placed in funerary chambers inside the tombs. Unlike the two similar tombs at the Persepolis site one can not look inside the tomb. Reliefs depicting royal ceremonies and battle scenes were hewn into the rock below the tombs during the Sassanian period.



__________________
Ride Reports: Germany to Iran | Eastbound, to the Stans
Boarder06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 11:44 AM   #107
Sylvia Stuurman
Adventurer
 
Sylvia Stuurman's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Mheer, the Netherlands
Oddometer: 63
Thumb

What an exceptional beauty you have captured in pictures and words. Thank you!
__________________
Sylvia Stuurman
www.sylviastuurman.nl
www.lazymotorbike.eu
Sylvia Stuurman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 08:58 PM   #108
locorider
Loco, pero no estúpido!
 
locorider's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Puerto Rico, U.S.A.
Oddometer: 2,471
Bravo! Excelente! I wish I could do a trip like this in the future!

Ride safe!
__________________
Carlos locorider
1989 Honda XL600V Transalp, slightly modified!

"If you don't follow your dreams, you might as well be a vegetable", Burt Munro, The World's Fastest Indian
locorider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 09:33 PM   #109
Stravoxylo
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Stravoxylo's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: NYC
Oddometer: 292
every installment a gem. Thank you for a window into a region with such rich history.
Solo travel has a flavor all its own, which can't be replicated any other way.
Stravoxylo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 08:11 AM   #110
SpitfireTriple
Seek Truth
 
SpitfireTriple's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Bristol, Britain
Oddometer: 876
Agree re the solo travel thing. Though it would be nice to have someone alongside sometimes to gasp in shared wonder. Maybe that's where we blog readers come in.

I think this has now become my all-time number one ride report. And it hasn't even finished yet.
SpitfireTriple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 09:59 AM   #111
Ted Bell
I want that one!
 
Ted Bell's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Springville, UT
Oddometer: 110
Thanks for sharing your fascinating trip!
Ted Bell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 12:29 PM   #112
knobie
Adventurer
 
knobie's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Location: SLC, UT
Oddometer: 33
Wow! Thank you!
knobie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 02:14 PM   #113
strommer
Ride for balance
 
strommer's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Beantown
Oddometer: 374
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boarder06
Hey Guys,

Thanks for the feedback. I'm currently in Yazd, using a long weekend, thanks to yet another relgious holiday, to catch up on my posts.

I'm thinking about a little swing into Georgia and Armenia. If anyone has any recent information about riding there I'd be much obliged if you'd share.

Cheers
I rode from Ankara to Baku via Georgia in 2000 with two Germans also on motorcycles and my wife following us in a car. We had a great time. We exited from the Turkish border crossing that is inland, called "Turkgozu". Back then Georgia was considered unsafe for overland travel (armed bandits at work). One of the Germans split for Armenia shortly after entering Georgia and later reproted the road to Armenia being in poor shape and the road in Armenia being even worse.

But that is almost ten years ago. Today for Georgia you'll have to take into consideration the fact that there are Russian troops in some parts after the war last summer. I don't know about conditions in Armenia. I wonder if all the Georgian border and customs guards would ask you to wheelie their checkpoint once all the stamping and signing of documets is done. They did back in 2000.

Have you checked on the HUBB ?
strommer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 04:52 PM   #114
demirgursel
Adventurer
 
demirgursel's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: TURKEY
Oddometer: 11
very nice I have not turkeys tour.thanks
__________________
sıkıysa yakala
CBF500
demirgursel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 06:25 PM   #115
Condolini
Fountain of useless info
 
Condolini's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Behind the Cheddar Curtain
Oddometer: 2,089
Saw some of the sites in Turkey while visiting in Nov. 2008, would like to hit the roads on a bike.

Thanks for the great RR! Beautiful scenery and the descriptions are fantastic. Would like to follow a similar route but being a lone female, it prolly wouldn't be the best choice.
Condolini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2009, 08:00 AM   #116
Boarder06 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Boarder06's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Cambridge, MA
Oddometer: 238
Persepolis to Yazd

Persepolis to Yazd


I arrive at the gate of Pasargadae, the capital of the Achaemenid Empire under Cyrus the Great (559-530 BC), at 7:30. I have a chat with the friendly guards and they let me in early. The site is laid out to face the evening sun. So, there is not much to take pictures of in the morning other than the back side of, what most believe to be, the grave of Cyrus the Great.

The different parts of the city are quite spread out and I drive around and hike to various ruins for a while.
A little roadside shop owner evidently is an Ahmadinejad supporter

In Abarqu I stop to look at an old ice house

and a Cyprus tree, supposedly 4000 years old.

There are other interesting things to see here but it is too hot for that at around noon. The town is clearly hoping to attract foreign visitors and they have installed signs in English everywhere. After the city I hit on a 40km stretch of brand new four lane highway and I let it rip.


I stop to explore a crumbling caravansary at the side of the road.

I make it to Yazd in good time and head to the Silk Road Hotel. The guy I check in with is completely clueless and too lazy to even lift his feet. Just like last time. On the plus side that makes him a push over on the price. For parking he just points to a space at the back door and disappears. I maneuver the bike in by myself.

This is a gem of a place and I have stayed here before. Some of the people who work here are super motivated and friendly, others (relatives of the owner maybe?) just couldn’t care less and leave some travelers thoroughly disappointed after all the hype they chose to believe.
__________________
Ride Reports: Germany to Iran | Eastbound, to the Stans
Boarder06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2009, 08:02 AM   #117
Boarder06 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Boarder06's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Cambridge, MA
Oddometer: 238
Yazd

Yazd

Yazd is a very old city, some say more than 7000 years old. Luckily, there still is a compact old city core with alleys too narrow for cars and thus it is a pleasant and quiet place to wander around in. The central point is the 15th century Jameh Mosque, just a minute walk from the Silk Road Hotel.





Nearby Amir Chakhmaq square is a nice place to sit late in the afternoon

by the fountain and have an ice cream or two, or three..

The narrow alleys of old Yazd are easily explored on foot or by motorbike, just leave your panniers at the hotel or you might get stuck.





The old town is a sea of badgirs, tall wind towers that direct any breeze into the house and hot air out of it. Often air is directed over an ancient underground water channel, a qanat, for extra cooling. A genius system that really works. There are a few things to be learned from the old Persians about living in the desert.

I pay a visit to the Zoroastrian Fire Temple

with the winged man, the symbol of the Zoroastrianism, on top of the temple.

Many of the old doors still have his and hers door knockers.

Their modern counterparts have door bells with intercoms and cameras.
Old Yazd looks especially nice at sunset.

A number of Qajar era mansion have been restored.


A bazaar side street:

At night many of the buildings are lit

and the views from the Orient Hotel’s roof top restaurant are magnificent.



P.S.: This is what I’m looking at while I write this in the Orient Hotel courtyard. Life can be tough
__________________
Ride Reports: Germany to Iran | Eastbound, to the Stans
Boarder06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2009, 08:05 AM   #118
Boarder06 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Boarder06's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Cambridge, MA
Oddometer: 238
Towers of Silence, Chak Chak, and Kharanaq

Towers of Silence, Chak Chak, and Kharanaq

These three places can be visited in a nice loop from Yazd. The Towers of Silence are on the outskirts of Yazd. Zoroastrians placed their dead into the open towers on top of the hill to have the bones picked clean by vultures. Today, the name is a total misnomer. The hills are boxed in by a highway on one side, Yazd university on another, and modern ugly apartment buildings on the remaining two sides. Local youth run up and down the hill with their motorbikes, all of which have a straight pipe exhausts and no muffler. So, you can imagine the “silence”.

Chak Chak is a nice drive into the desert but the place itself will disappoint most people. Mostly ugly, modern brick buildings on a steep hill. “Chak chak” means drip, drip and indeed there is some water dripping from the rock in the fire temple. It is Iran’s most important Zoroastrian site and, looking at their buildings, it seems that Zoroastrians are not sentimental, rather practical people.


>From Chak Chak its a short ride to Kharanaq, which is small village at the side of the highway. It looks like its inhabitants have left the old mud brick village in favor of the modern village next to it. So, you are free to explore the old village, climbing up and down crumbling old houses with spectacular views of the fertile valley below. There is an old minaret in the village and some girls from Tehran got a local to shake it for them, which got them bursting into applause. If you are not claustrophobic and are not afraid to get dirty you can climb up the minaret.







__________________
Ride Reports: Germany to Iran | Eastbound, to the Stans
Boarder06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2009, 08:06 AM   #119
Boarder06 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Boarder06's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Cambridge, MA
Oddometer: 238
Yazd 2

Yazd 2

Predictably I get “stuck” in Yazd for a few extra days. It’s just too nice. I read a bit, wander around the city and generally just relax. The way a vacation should be.
Most of the time the old city is completely deserted because everything happens behind the thick walls. I do run into some very curious kids, though.

An interesting place to go to is the Saheb a Zaman Club Zurkhaneh to see a workout Iranian style. The club is in the town’s old water reservoir. It seems to be a very reglemented type of workout with a bunch of men standing in a circle, doing various exercises. There is an MC, beating a drum and reciting/singing something in Farsi, some say it’s poetry. The men are of all ages, shapes, sizes, and fitness levels. This is a very hard one hour workout. Quite fascinating really.


They have normal weight lifting gyms too and it is quite popular. Every news stand has a few weight lifting magazines with the nastiest, steroid pumped, 80s style muscle men posing on the cover. There are many stores selling supplements and you see some of the steroid types in the streets too.
I found some strange graffiti

and the ubiquitous religious propaganda

Oh, and then there was the “Nazi Tweety” store.

Would you trust that man,

or the camel butcher?

Kids play football

and Yazdies swing into action a couple of hours before sunset.







The locals enjoy ice cream as much as I do.



__________________
Ride Reports: Germany to Iran | Eastbound, to the Stans

Boarder06 screwed with this post 06-10-2009 at 08:17 AM
Boarder06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2009, 08:08 AM   #120
Boarder06 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Boarder06's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Cambridge, MA
Oddometer: 238
Yazd to Kashan

Yazd to Kashan


After an early breakfast I get some help to back the bike up the steps through the narrow doorway in the Silk Road Hotel. I stop in Meybod, just North of Yazd, and have a look around the old part of the city.

The Sassannian Narein castle opens at a leisurely 9am and I climb to the top of it.



In the courtyard is a little mud brick construction facility. Some of the standard mud brick architectural features have been built en miniature which allows to study the ancient construction techniques.

I ride along the desert road, braking for camels when I need to (yes, there really are camels crossing the road).


Next to the road I spot a bunch of old caravansaries and I stop for lunch. I munch some of the European style bread I bought in Yazd with fresh feta. Couldn’t believe my eyes when I found that store in Yazd. I explore the caravansaries a bit



and continue through the desert.

I actually want to go to the small mountain village of Abyaneh and see a sign just South of Natanz. When it is time to head West according to my map I am surrounded by anti aircraft guns camouflaged in the desert and no sealed road in sight. No doubt they are here to proctect the nearby nuclear facilities in Natanz. I don’t want to take a dirt road going through there. I don’t feel like arguing with some officials in the desert heat. By the time I’m clear of the military installments I’m almost in Kashan and I decide to forget about the mountain village. I find a room in one of the historical houses.

My room is far enough away from the other rooms in the house that I can sleep with the door wide open without causing any offense. Nice to have a cold breeze during the night.
__________________
Ride Reports: Germany to Iran | Eastbound, to the Stans
Boarder06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 08:14 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014