Sydney to London on a105cc Honda callled Dot

[wasions]

Well done, Nathan!
She a hottie fer sher!

[nathanthepostman]

Yep, I've fired her in to life alright.

She runs like a dream. Started first kick.

There have been a few teething problems. Just little things really, like the speedo and the idle speed and a sticky throttle cable, but all in all she's absolutely fine.

I've had mixed advice on running her in; the latest being just to ride her as usual but don't go daft, which is what I intend to do.

Of course there are still a few nerves over the different sounds she's now making, as well as the sensations and the way in which the engine dies when the ignition switch is turned off. Little things, I guess just a change in characteristics that I'll soon get used to.

Certainly smoother, certainly more efficient and a touch more power. Basically refreshed.

Hopefully when the weather clears I'll take her a little further affield and then from there see how we go.

Lastly, I appreciate all the advice/feedback in getting her back up and running. Another thing done.


Clip of first run here...
http://youtu.be/zqzUtCOJcmU

[Adv Grifter]

Good job Nathan!
I would get those throttle cables sorted first thing.
I believe the key to running in are "heat cycles". Ride her around normally 15-20 minutes, let her cool for 15 min. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Heat cycles expand and contract metal. You don't want to get her super HOT when still brand new. The heat cycling allows dissimilar metals to "scrub in" and mate with one another nicely ... and quickly.

I would do an oil and filter change at around 200 to 300 miles. Then another at 1000 miles. Check for metal contents and bits on each change. Some metal is normal during run in. After 3 or 4 oil changes less metal should be there ... only a few tiny particles if any.

Really, after 4 or 5 good heat cycles and some running it up and down the revs ... and about 300 miles ... she's run in and ready to handle abuse! By 1000 miles she will be fully bedded in and ready for another RTW ride.

All the best!

[loxsmith]

Well done Nathan, you know it'll go faster with a "One Ten" racing sticker on it!

Glen

[wasions]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Ride it the way you expect to ride. Dump and refresh oil at 20 miles.
Do another oil change at 100 miles. Next at 500 miles.
Then - 2000~5000, whatever.
Rather expensive at first, but you'll never have valve or ring problems - ever.

[MaineScoot]

Speaking of One Ten stickers I have a few extras that Joe sent me. If anyone in the US wants one just let me know and I'll sent it off to you.

[canyncarvr]

Originally Posted by wasions

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Yeah. 'Controversial' is a good word. EVERYBODY knows what's BEST! And...if you don't do it THEIR way, you're a wonk.

MotoMan has it right, though.

Not that it matters, 'cuz if you think the above process is Bo-oh-oh-gus, there is nothing to be said that will matter..but...I've rebuilt a few bikes over 40+ years of riding. I'm not new to the break-in issue. I've done it both ways, 'heat cycle' and the method above (it being new to me only a handful or so of years ago). I've had the opportunity to use the different methods on two brand new machines at the same time. I can feel the difference between the two.

I've seen pistons that resulted from the use of both methods.

There is a difference. It does matter.


P-shaw it if you like. Follow MotoMan's advice on a rebuild break-in procedure..you will be happy!

Congratulations on getting Dot fired up!

(..and thanks for the book. It was a treat! Good Job. DAMN fine job!)

[Volker@Bandit]

Just finished reading your book. Great story and nice writing.
The last Page says: "To be continued".

I hope so.

Greetings from Germany

[nathanthepostman]

I perhaps should have read that before hand, but anyway, as has been said; everyone has their opinion, all of which are different.

So I've just ridden her as I've always ridden her; kinda soft, but a bit tough every now and again. So opened the throttle a few times today, cruised at a good whack, made her go through the gears. Perhaps done about 60 miles, so I guess if the damage is done the damage is done. Though I'm not going to worry myself too much.

Bought some new oil, gonna change that, but the guy selling it said don't be daft, wait until 500 miles, so again different mind, different method.

Reassuring to speak to a good mechanic today who said it's normal for tappets to need re-adjusting after the first few runs as they were getting a bit tappy. He had a saying that went something like 'a slappy tappy is a happy tappy,' or something like that. Equals; better too loose than too tight.

Alas, she runs. And at the minute I couldn't ask for much more than that.

Stickers also applied. Joe will be happy.

Thanks too for the feedback on the book. Kind words. Glad it made Germany.

[enduro0125]

An old biker told me "valves are like children,when quiet is when you worry about them."

I used the heat cycles before on two stroke dirt bikes with good luck.
I've also just "ran 'um" as well.(within reason)

Nice job on the rebuild.

[Fordfixer]

I always added a 2-3 ounces of good quality 2 stroke mixing oil per gallon to the first tank to help with the first lubrication of the cylinder walls..Drive it normal,varying RPM,don't hammer it.

[DC950]

Brilliant! So glad to see you made it through your first rebuild. That's got to feel good.

Since you don't have a filter to pick up little bits of metal and whatever horrid little things you accidentally introduced into the cases on the rebuild, changing the oil now is cheap insurance.

[gongnomore]

Finished the UK version of your book after having already read the Australian one, it was great to go through the journey again and it's highly recommended reading. Led me to stalk your facebook pictures of the trip that weren't on the thread or in the book, top stuff.

[nathanthepostman]

Haha, you weirdo.

Just to mention with regards the rebuild; I followed the advice on here and drained the oil after about 60 miles or so. I also took off the clutch cover in order to inspect the filter gauze. Glad I did. There were bits of fluff, shards of wire wool, gunk... so I've cleaned it out, re-assembled and will change again in another hundred or so.

The wire wool must just have been picked up from the work bench by that spinning magnetic thing. Hope it's not done any harm.

Had issues with valve clearance as well. Manual instructs to line up the 'T' on the 'alternator' with the arrow in the 'crank case' (think I've got that right), but in doing that it just seemd too sloppy. Making too much noise. Having snapped the thread on one of the valve covers and been to buy some more from the local bike shop, he advised to rotate the engine until the top valve was completely in, then adjust the bottom valve. And then reverse to do the top one. It seems to be a lot better, with just a touch of noise from that and the cam chain.

Hopefully the rain will stop and I can take her for a good run.

[Adv Grifter]

Yea, you made the common mistake of being 180 degrees out ... and not on the compression stroke.

If valve clearance is set correctly, then at TDC (on the timing mark) on the compression stroke .... BOTH valves should wiggle a bit when you move them up and down. (that wiggle is your clearance)

It is in that position you need to measure clearances and set them. There is some technique to getting screw adjusters just right.
Sometimes, you measure and clearance is good. But then ... after you tighten down nut ... the clearance changes some. (tightens up) This is typical.

Various ways to deal with this. Some leave the feeler gauge in place, then tighten down adjuster. Some set valve just a bit loose, then tighten and hope it tightens up just enough to be perfect. Practice makes perfect.

I would set valves to the middle of spec for Run-In. Once everything is fully run in and stable, then you can set them to minimum gap. And there they will stay. Makes for quiet valve gear and top end. All modern Japanese motors come from the factory at minimum valve clearance. They like quiet motors!

Good move on cleaning out the crud in the motor. Hopefully things will clean up by next oil change.
Also ... I would install a Magnetic Drain Plug! Could save the motor if something is rattling around in there.