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Old 02-09-2012, 09:52 AM   #316
Zapp22
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would one of you gents give us all the exact specs of the spacers for the Tiger front and DR rear?
include the steel spec pls -

Also - I assume you ruled out a DR front wheel. Why? too narrow tire choices? It appears to me the spacing would be 10-12mm per side on that one

why wouldn't we in the states to a group buy on custom machining of these spacer parts?
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Old 02-09-2012, 06:47 PM   #317
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Spacers and the like

Spacers and the like

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
would one of you gents give us all the exact specs of the spacers for the Tiger front and DR rear?
include the steel spec pls - I can give you specs if your after the spacers or alternatively I could sell you mine. I have a new rear wheel for mine and the original front is now a spare so the F/R spacers aren't needed. Otherwise I may be able to find my drawings I did ages ago.

Also - I assume you ruled out a DR front wheel. Why? too narrow tire choices? It appears to me the spacing would be 10-12mm per side on that one The reason I didn't use the DR front wheel was because its single sided disc. I wanted to use the standard front end with my first effort at modding the bike and the 955 wheel fitted well.

why wouldn't we in the states to a group buy on custom machining of these spacer parts? To be honest RAD already make strom hubs (not ABS though) so hubs are easy to come by and then just get woody to build you up some wheels. Custom made spacers would most likely make the cost even higher than using pre made parts (eg RAD).
If your searching for the RAD hubs check the speciality hub section on their website.
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:26 PM   #318
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Tileman,
The bike is coming along nicely. You are putting alot of custom solutions which I admire.
I went the quick and dirty route with mine, you should be proud of your build.
I'll keep checking in, cant wait to see the finished product. If you are like me, it will never be finished.
Keep up the great work!

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Old 02-09-2012, 08:33 PM   #319
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Originally Posted by Assfault View Post
Tileman,
The bike is coming along nicely. You are putting alot of custom solutions which I admire.
I went the quick and dirty route with mine, you should be proud of your build.
I'll keep checking in, cant wait to see the finished product. If you are like me, it will never be finished.
Keep up the great work!

Assfault
Thanks. It kinda got a little out of control to be honest. Yours may be "quick and dirty" but I like it a lot. I suppose I just got a little carried away
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Old 02-10-2012, 05:07 AM   #320
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tell me more

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman View Post
First of all - thanks to TS for info - we are now converting DL650 of my friend.
Step one - we got Triumph Tiger 955 wheel. It fits right in, just need 2 spacers. No need for adaptor for speedo drive - it works, but it using just 2 of 4 slots in speedo drive. Which does not matter, since it is enough to turn it anyway.
Needs 2 simple spacers and that's all.

We also ordered rear wheel from Caponord - complete with disk and sprocket. Not sure what to do about rear disk yet, will try to find something to match 260 mm disk of Strom but fits Capo rear hub. Caponord disk I think either 245 or 270?
Since my friend is "mechanically incapable" I am doing conversion, he is supplying parts :)

I will keep you updated on progress - perhaps this can be useful for someone.
hi i'm assuming this is the X-laced tubeless 4''x17 unit???,,they also have a cush drive in em...

if so you all are lucky,,,i've got shelves of these hubs,,,as a result of needing to buy complete wheels to get to the rims we need for all the ''caponord conversions....
FYI thes hubs are also far easier to lace conventional rims to ie the rims where the nipples go in the drop center as opposed to the tubeless rims with the nipples in outer lps of rim..

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Old 02-10-2012, 06:09 AM   #321
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Correct, that's the one.

We have not received it yet - it is enroute from Germany...as soon as I have my hands on it and do some "try and swear" I will post results.
It is so unlucky that my ancient Myford lathe won't allow me to machine 270 mm disk, damn it. I could have just shaved 5 mm from Capo rear disk and it would be match to Vee caliper.


We'll see how it goes...
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Old 02-10-2012, 01:07 PM   #322
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Originally Posted by bluesman View Post
Correct, that's the one.

We have not received it yet - it is enroute from Germany...as soon as I have my hands on it and do some "try and swear" I will post results.
It is so unlucky that my ancient Myford lathe won't allow me to machine 270 mm disk, damn it. I could have just shaved 5 mm from Capo rear disk and it would be match to Vee caliper.


We'll see how it goes...
you should find someone in town to machine it down,,you can also grind it or install it on your bike,,raise the bike up on the center-stand,, ,fire it up,,put it in 5th and get your file/body grinder/ to start chewing/grinding off the unwanted metal

there's many ways to skin a cat as we say it ,,,or,,,many roads lead to rome,,or as Rumi one said 'there's hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground.''

you can do it

woody
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Old 02-10-2012, 03:17 PM   #323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works View Post
the tubeless rims with the nipples in outer lps of rim..

holler,
woody
I've run tubeless on my rims for 3000 k's so far with no problems. Its easy enough to do. The current rear wheel will be set up so that the spokes can be adjusted without breaking the sealant so that will solve one issue.

In OZ the caporcord wheels are a bit harder to come by and then there is the machining. In the states that shipping costs may be cheaper so that may be a good option, but its more than possible to create your own tubeless setup with beads on the rim similar to the cast strom wheel. Another option anyway.
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:43 AM   #324
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progess

Ok. I got the fairings I had (thanks gany) re moulded and so made an attempt to match them to the tank.

Once I had a basic idea sorted I then bolted the 2 parts together (see holes in the parts) and then glassed the parts together.


Once that was done I refitted them and started to bog up again with glass bog so I could get a better finish. They are now at the glass place round the corner getting tooling moulds made and 2 parts . . . . hence if they look ok and fit well I can make another set if needed
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:49 AM   #325
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more progress

While the fairings were off getting done I started on some of the wiring for the lights. I did a pretty miss-mash job last time and I wanted to have a better result this time.

Hence I wanted to use more relays and a fuse block so that I can use the extra fuse outlets down the track for other things (road book perhaps) or maybe other lights.


I also have a deans plug near the battery before the relay so I can run the led straight from the battery, it also can run the tyre pump, usb charger (made from a carnaged cig charger).
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:28 PM   #326
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more progress

Changed a few things around with the wiring. I now have a relay triggered from the ignition line that runs the fuse block, both are now on the same side. I have another relay triggered from the low beam circut that is a on/off version. When the low beam is running the LED light won't run but when high beam is selected the light works. Since the LED is not actually legal here (from what I know) it may be useful to be able to prove it will only run with the High beam.

Also I got the DL steering damper mount shortened so that the dmaper can run as a sub mount with the BRP yz triples. The standard DL scotts mount has the damper on top of the triple. Since I have a yz front end I wanted to run the damper under the bars so with a few conversations with Scotts I was able to order a setup knowing I'd have to shorten the DL mount.

I had a third attempt at sealing the rear wheel to make it tubeless also. From what I have read there is a check of your wheels at one point of the event that I am doing mid year so I needed to make the wheel able to be adjusted. Since the original way I had achieved the tubeless involved sealing directly onto the spoke nipples I had to find another way. I tried a couple of options but in the end I have just decided to put a tube in both ends. The tubeless I will return to later as it has worked fine up till now but for the sake of simplicity I'll just run tubes. There are downsides but tubes have worked for some time and will most likely continue too. KTM 990's, transalps etc still run them so it can't be to big an issue.

The seat is off getting modified, both narrower and higher, at the moment with a local guy here in Melb, hopefully in the next week I'll have the seat and new fairings back, the rear wheel locked in and the chain/sprockets all installed . . . .

which hopefully means she is pretty close to being a runner again
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:33 PM   #327
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Oh, and the rear fairings, the new fairings, the guard, are all painted black now.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:40 AM   #328
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OK, quick update on installing Caponord rear wheel on Vstrom.

It fits. If I align sprocket into precisely same position related to swingarm as original Vstrom wheel rim of Capo wheel will be offset from ideal centreline to the right by 1 mm. This can be fixed by machining 1 mm off internal spacer between sprocket carrier and wheel. Takes about 5 mins on my old lathe. Still, I decided not to do it for simple reason - looking at possible play in whole assembly (swingarm, chain tensioners etc) - this makes no sense to waste time for that 1 mm on rear wheel, if it would be front wheel - I would mind, on rear - I would not.

Referrences: distance from sprocket face to centreline of rim on Vstrom: 109 mm, Capo - 110 mm. Distance from swingarm to sproket face with stock wheel 30 mm (measured from rear end of swingarm beam. To keep same distance (align sproket) with Capo wheel you need spacer 22 mm long (20 mm internal diameter).
On right side not all so rosy. Brake disk need to be moved out by 8 mm. No big deal really - Capo have 6 m8 bolts to mount disk, that's like more than enought to use spacers under each bolt or machine proper distance ring. My lathe is too small for that, so we decided to use 6 separate aluminium spacers, machined to precision of 0.02 mm (best I can do really). Still in progress. Spacer on axle on right side need to be 11 mm.
Please note - all this for Vstrom 650 and I do estimate measurements can be 1 mm off. Perhaps spacer may be 23 on left side and still 11 on right or just 12 on right. I used averages of 5 measurements and took into account that swingarm narrowing when you tightening axle nut up.
Original Capo rear disk too big - 272 mm, won't fit stock Vstrom caliper. Solution: front brake disk for Gilera RC600. Same position of holes - 158 mm, 6 bolts, central opening 140 mm, external diameter 260 mm, just like Vstrom 650 stock. Ordered.
All in all this works out really cool. Specially since Capo rear wheel is tubeless spoked type.
Now I just waiting for Gilera brake disk to arrive.
If you have big enough lathe you can machine stock Capo disk to 262 mm taking 5 mm per side - this will work.
Otherwise - get disk cut out for you.

As soon as my friend ( Vstrom owner) will upload photos - I will post them.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:35 AM   #329
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Photos here

http://kickstarter.org/forum/index.p...2063#msg112063
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:20 AM   #330
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Nice! It probably quite a bit lighter too!
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