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Old 05-14-2009, 03:25 PM   #16
marty hill
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Don't know anything about rotax/all my time is on 1100/1150/1200 BM's. Somewhere around 18k you can feel the difference/that's when they are fully worn in. I've reached this point with 11 new bm's. Many guys who baby there motors report large amounts of oil being used. I assume the two go hand in hand. I thrash mine and never add oil in between 6k changes of dino.

I am doing the same with the 800 and assume (hope) to get the same results.
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Old 05-15-2009, 03:51 AM   #17
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I've read that using regular synthetic is a no no for a bike that has a wet clutch sharing the engine oil but I'm open to reasons yea or nay I also don't think this bike can be compared to the boxers since there is really no similarities at all. I had a K1200 and it never used any oil at all from day one yet all my boxers did. I'm hoping the F800 is more like the K1200 in that respect.
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Old 05-15-2009, 04:56 AM   #18
panthercity
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I've used synth in everything from roadracing sprint and endurance bikes to street bikes (Current Triumph Scrambler) to touring bikes (FJR1300 and BMW R11xxRSA) for twenty-odd years. All but the BMWs had wet clutches with no problems using NON-energy conserving synth oils.

Currently a big proponent of Rotella Synth.
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Old 05-15-2009, 05:36 AM   #19
David_S
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"NON-energy conserving synth oils"

I think this was probably what I had read. Some are energy conserving (I think) and can cause clutch slippage etc.
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Old 05-15-2009, 05:47 AM   #20
lawe
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Break in on mineral. Synthetic lubricates to well for breaking in. It just gets to slippery.

Then when you change to synthetic (which is of higher quality and lasts longer than mineral) make sure you get oil that complies to JASO. That's a standard that says that the oil works with a wet clutch and does not contain EP-additives.
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Old 05-15-2009, 06:11 AM   #21
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David_S
I've read that using regular synthetic is a no no for a bike that has a wet clutch sharing the engine oil but I'm open to reasons yea or nay I also don't think this bike can be compared to the boxers since there is really no similarities at all. I had a K1200 and it never used any oil at all from day one yet all my boxers did. I'm hoping the F800 is more like the K1200 in that respect.
There are additives in some AUTOMOTIVE motor oils that reduce friction... obviously that is a BAD idea for wet-clutch bikes. The oils that say "motorcycle" on the bottle do not have these additives - some "regular" i.e. non-motorcycle oils do not have the friction reducing additives either but there is a need to be careful. AFAIK that issue is not related to the synthetic vs. dino issue

Officially BMW recommends using Castrol Act-Evo Xtra which is a partial synthetic i.e. synthetic "blend" so just to avoid wasting brain enery that I should be using to pick out farkles I'm just gonna use that...

It was on sale a bit ago at my local CycleGear store for about $5 / qt.

Jim
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Old 05-15-2009, 06:28 AM   #22
Wildman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden
...Officially BMW recommends using Castrol Act-Evo Xtra...
Officially, BMW recommends Power 1 GPS 10W-40 but state Act>evo GP 10w-40W is "also suitable". Semantics maybe.
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:36 AM   #23
Dave92029 OP
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Thumb Thanks for your comments Castrol on Sale

Originally Posted by JRWooden
...Officially BMW recommends using Castrol Act-Evo Xtra...

CycleGear has this oil on sale for $4.49 - $1.50 off their regular price. I believe that this is a very good price for this oil.

Thanks to everyone for the excellent comments.
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Old 05-15-2009, 02:04 PM   #24
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildman
Officially, BMW recommends Power 1 GPS 10W-40 but state Act>evo GP 10w-40W is "also suitable". Semantics maybe.
Yeah.. that struck me as odd also, when you read the description of the GPS oil it sounds like it is made for crotch-rockets

I sent e-mail to Castrol a while back and here is the response I got:

Thank you for contacting Castrol,
BMW is recommending Castrol non-full Synthetic Motor oil. Castrol Act-Evo Xtra or Castrol GPS are non full synthetic motor oils meeting the required spec for 2008 BMW motorcycles and may be used.

Recommended and best suited for your BMW F650GS (twin) is Castrol Act>Evo Xtra . The recommended interval change for the first change is 500 miles. When you do the 1st oil change make sure the engine is warm and best would be after a ride. Wait 20 minutes after turning the engine off and drain. Re-fill with the Act>Evo Xtra and you are good for 3,000 or more miles minimum.

Castrol Consumer Relations

I am now at the 3600 mile mark and wondering what to do ...

0il & filter every 3K
Oil every 3K and 0il & filter every 6K
0il & filter every 6K

....
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Old 05-16-2009, 04:51 AM   #25
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I bought a brand new Nissan Pathfinder in 2001. The very 1st thing I did was drain the oil and put in Amsoil. This would prove to be a mistake. The long and the short of it was, the motor could not go 5k without eating and entire quart due to the rings never seating. It was irriversable too. So, I leaned a lesson, I do believe in full synthetic oils like Amsoil, but only after the engine has broken in.
So how do I explain my 2008 Caddilac that does not burn a drop and come factory filled with Mobile 1 or my 950 Adventure which also came factory filled with Syn ? Well, honestly, I dont. I do know that Nissan engine was voted by JD Power and Assco to be the best V6 engine built at that time, so it wasn't the engine I dont believe.
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Old 05-16-2009, 05:30 AM   #26
panthercity
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot
...So how do I explain my 2008 Caddilac that does not burn a drop and come factory filled with Mobile 1 or my 950 Adventure which also came factory filled with Syn ? Well, honestly, I dont...
Engines that are designed, engineered and machined to use synth from the get go break in just fine on it.
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Old 05-16-2009, 05:44 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot
I dont. I do know that Nissan engine was voted by JD Power and Assco to be the best V6 engine built at that time, so it wasn't the engine I dont believe.
Don't believe every thing you read...... .....Nissian has had several ring and piston problems over the years and almost all involved oil consumption but a quart every 5000 is no big deal and really not out of the norm.......manufactures will not address oil consumtion until it reaches quart every 1000 and thats excessive reality quart in 2500 is still no big deal especially if you drive fast
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Old 05-16-2009, 06:24 AM   #28
DockingPilot
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ah ha. well that truck is long gone now. My sons Toyota dosent burn a flippin ounce not matter how long he goes between changes.
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Old 05-16-2009, 08:57 AM   #29
DolphinJohn
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Well, I just put Castrol Syntec (full synth) in my bike the other day,
but I haven't ridden it yet.

I suppose I could drain it and use a blend or non-synth
if it really is a big no-no, but I honestly think my bike
is broken in at 3,000 miles.

I made sure to load the engine up and down during the first few rides.

I thought I had read somewhere, maybe in that guy's "break it in hard"
report, that at 3,000 it was ok to switch to full synth.
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Old 05-16-2009, 11:02 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DolphinJohn
Well, I just put Castrol Syntec (full synth) in my bike the other day,
but I haven't ridden it yet.

I suppose I could drain it and use a blend or non-synth
if it really is a big no-no, but I honestly think my bike
is broken in at 3,000 miles.

I made sure to load the engine up and down during the first few rides.

I thought I had read somewhere, maybe in that guy's "break it in hard"
report, that at 3,000 it was ok to switch to full synth.
You're fine. At 3,000 miles most break-in items are completed. The Master BMW Mechanic at my dealer said that the engine on the 8GS is broken in at 1000-1500 miles. Then you can ride however you want and put whatever oil you want in (with the exception of automotive oils).
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