ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-28-2012, 07:06 PM   #46
One Less Harley
OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT
 
One Less Harley's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Bowling Green, Ky
Oddometer: 4,575
Hucky's has the brass ones too
__________________
2004 BMW R1150RS
1984 BMW R80G/S
(wrenching index)
2003 Suzuki DRZ 400S (TAT Prep)
One More DRZ does the TAT (Ride Report)

One Less Harley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 07:16 PM   #47
mspa
Gnarly Adventurer
 
mspa's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 138
I asked him this week and he told me he sold out and doesn't have in stock.

Moto-bins has part# 76700A for 12.50
http://www.motobins.co.uk/displayfin...q=76700A&go=GO
__________________
Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
mspa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2012, 04:30 PM   #48
vvillarr
n00b
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Oddometer: 3
Neutral switch over torque

Hello, newbie mistake. I overtorqued the switch. Have a new one on its way. Anyone have any suggestions for how I remove the remains of the former new switch from the bottom of the transmission? Otherwise, I'll be learning how to remove the tranny this weekend...

Victor
vvillarr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2012, 12:46 PM   #49
bpeckm
Grin!
 
bpeckm's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Road Island
Oddometer: 5,480
eerrrrr...... remains? ....does this mean that you torqued it so much that the threads sheared away from the wrench body? yikes! You might be in for an easy-out experience, it sounds like


__________________
XS650 becomes a VT BackRoadRunner
Loving the 80ST
I love projects that take twice as much effort as should be needed. Should be an Airhead motto. (disston)
__________________
bpeckm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 09:39 AM   #50
vvillarr
n00b
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Oddometer: 3
Broken Neutral Switch

I was able to use a broken bolt extraction tool, had to find one small enough to fit in that space, but it worked out.
vvillarr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2014, 05:46 AM   #51
KLR Newb
Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Oddometer: 64
Hi, reviving this old thread.
Pretty sure my R100GS leak is due to a faulty neutral switch. The replacement neutral switch is in the mail.
Anyone have a definitive, end-all, instruction for replacing this thing? Does either the Clymer's or Hayne's have good instruction?

From this thread, this guy's advice sounds the best and most simplistic. Is it accurate? Does this repair really take only 30 minutes?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawk Medicine View Post
Whats with neutral switches failing?

In my experience, they usually last several tens of thousands of miles before crapping out or leaking. Oh well.... Maybe it's todays parts thats the problem!

Also... Installing a new one really isnt a big deal if you have a lift.

Jack the lift up.
Drain the trans lube.
Pull the rear mount 80% of th way out.
Pull out the engine mount tube.
Remove/install the new switch.
Put everything back theway it was.

I'd say 30 minutes should do!
KLR Newb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2014, 05:53 AM   #52
hardwaregrrl
You talkin' to me?
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 6,607
Quote:
Originally Posted by KLR Newb View Post
Hi, reviving this old thread.
Pretty sure my R100GS leak is due to a faulty neutral switch. The replacement neutral switch is in the mail.
Anyone have a definitive, end-all, instruction for replacing this thing? Does either the Clymer's or Hayne's have good instruction?

From this thread, this guy's advice sounds the best and most simplistic. Is it accurate? Does this repair really take only 30 minutes?
Yes.....the motor mount spacer can be a bitch to get out, I use a cat's paw. be sure to just barely angle the edges of the spacer to aid in re-inserting it. Just a little grind or file should do it.
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2014, 06:32 AM   #53
Kai Ju
Beastly Adventurer
 
Kai Ju's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: So Cal
Oddometer: 1,644
Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
Yes.....the motor mount spacer can be a bitch to get out, I use a cat's paw. be sure to just barely angle the edges of the spacer to aid in re-inserting it. Just a little grind or file should do it.
It also helps to loosen the front motor mount. Seems unlikely, but it does.
Kai Ju is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2014, 10:04 AM   #54
gordongraham
Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2013
Location: East Wemyss, Fife, Scotland, UK
Oddometer: 71
I read earlier in this thread that if the switch isnt working, you will always have to hold in the clutch when starting, even if you are in neutral. Is this always the case?

My neutral light doesnt come on, ever. I assumed it was the switch and bought a replacement (used, cheap and tested from motorworks).

My bike starts fine though without clutch. Does this mean the switch is fine and its probably the bulb or wiring in the instrument cluster?
gordongraham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2014, 08:20 PM   #55
Wirespokes
Beemerholics Anonymous
 
Wirespokes's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon
Oddometer: 7,728
The neutral switch provides a path to ground - but it's normally OFF, only ON when in neutral. .

You can test it by grounding the hot lead to the switch, which should energize the neutral light.

There are two safety switches on these bikes - neutral and clutch, which prevent the bike starting in gear. If the transmission is in neutral (and the neutral switch circuit works), the starter can be energized to start the bike.

If it's not in neutral, pulling in the clutch will allow current to flow to the starter when the button is pushed.
__________________
Wanted: Dead, smashed, crashed or trashed gauges
BMW GAUGE REPAIRS - TACH*SPEEDO*CLOCK*VOLT METER *PODs & LIGHT BOARD*
Wirespokes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2014, 04:01 AM   #56
CptImagine
NCC-1701-B
 
CptImagine's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Pa. thru Mexico
Oddometer: 124
My GS went thru 2 neutral switches in short order . I think the heat from the GS can is the neutral switch culprit . My early RS and RT's never went thru one neutral switch . This will raise the ire of all the purists for sure but . I plugged the neutral switch . No more smelly burning grease . The minimalist lever safety switch also has a tendency to fail . I took a couple failed clutch lever switches apart . Rebuilt them with springs out of an ink pen, both had flimsy broken springs in them and was why they didn't work . Recovered them with shrink wrap and waahhh laaaa ... Park in low, pointed the way you're leaving .
CptImagine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2014, 04:50 AM   #57
greentreephrog
Adventurer
 
greentreephrog's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Laguna, Philippines
Oddometer: 58
These switches are SHIT

... by which I mean the aluminum-bodied ones that seem to be so common.

I also went through the JB Weld routine, even went to the trouble of mounting it (one of the Al ones) in the lathe and under-cutting the plastic to provide a firmer hold for the JB. I don't blame the JB for the thing leaking within an unreasonably short time (with the associated 'what's leaking' frustration and cost), it's just that they are DESIGNED TO LEAK! That's right, some engineer has gone to the trouble of designing a switch - more precisely, its gasket - so that it is guaranteed to leak. Who the engineer worked for I do not know - or care.

After I replaced the leaking one I cut it up to see whats on the inside, photos of which are in a thread here.

I think it is pretty obvious why it is designed as it is.

I have ordered a brass switch from Motobins - no guarantee that it is one of the switches which is designed not to leak, but I wouldn't bother with an Al switch any more. If this one leaks, then I plug the hole - I was brought up on English bikes, I can accept the logic of starting bikes in gear, and the discipline that goes with not doing it. Problem solved - it's really not that hard.

I guess its the old principle - less parts, less things to go wrong. And less fucking around.

Peter H
greentreephrog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2014, 08:23 PM   #58
Wirespokes
Beemerholics Anonymous
 
Wirespokes's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon
Oddometer: 7,728
Same here, Peter. Who needs a neutral safety switch anyway??? Agreed - simple is better. I also started out on bikes that didn't have all those safety things, and even before bikes had turn signals. Wiring was certainly simpler back then.

I did the same thing and tore apart one of the aluminum leakers. Same as you, a damaged rubber seal was the culprit. From all I've heard, the brass ones don't fail.

Seems like it would be easy enough to make a rebuildable switch. And that being the case, I think it could be installed in pieces without removing the engine cross brace tube.
__________________
Wanted: Dead, smashed, crashed or trashed gauges
BMW GAUGE REPAIRS - TACH*SPEEDO*CLOCK*VOLT METER *PODs & LIGHT BOARD*
Wirespokes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2014, 08:36 PM   #59
Stagehand
+/- V TDSPP
 
Stagehand's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Shawangunks
Oddometer: 24,692
You can get away with not draining the transmission oil if you can flip the bike upside down.
__________________
May the force be equal to mass times acceleration
Stagehand is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2014, 10:21 AM   #60
One Less Harley
OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT
 
One Less Harley's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Bowling Green, Ky
Oddometer: 4,575
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
You can get away with not draining the transmission oil if you can flip the bike upside down.
who would do something like that??



__________________
2004 BMW R1150RS
1984 BMW R80G/S
(wrenching index)
2003 Suzuki DRZ 400S (TAT Prep)
One More DRZ does the TAT (Ride Report)

One Less Harley is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 08:26 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014