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Old 05-23-2009, 07:20 PM   #1
M N B OP
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F800GS riser installation problem

I picked up an SW-Motech 30mm riser kit to improve ergonomics on my bike.

So I'm wrenching away, pulling off the four bolts that secure the top clamps and then I pull off the bottom clamp on the right side.

This kit is essentially a big spacer that fits underneath the stock risers with a longer bolt so that it fits. You reuse all the stock parts except the bolt.

I pull off the bottom part of the clamp and realize that I cannot remove the bolt from it. There is a sleeve around the bolt and the bolt does not spin in the sleeve. The sleeve prevents me from pulling the stock bolt out through the hole.

So I cannot install the new bolt since I cannot remove the old one.

I know I'm not the first person in the world to install risers on an F800GS, although the instructions in the kit left all mention of this sleeve out. Google has failed to locate any information (as well as forum searches).

Does any one know how the hell I can get that damn sleeve off? Pounding the crap out of it with a rubber mallet didn't budge it a micron from what I can see. I tried vise grips around the sleeve and wrenching the bolt out, but that didn't work, either.

I'm kinda stuck here, with an unrideable bike (although I could reassemble it in stock shape) because of this completely stupid german engineering stunt...
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Old 05-23-2009, 08:21 PM   #2
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I managed to remove the sleeve with vise grips to hold it while screwing the bolt out with a wrench. The sleeve on the other side was MUCH easier to remove.

And unfortunately, it seems the sleeve is necessary for a proper fit, so I have to remove the right side to replace it now...
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Old 05-23-2009, 09:25 PM   #3
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The sleeve is there to limit the compression of the rubber bushing. It is important.
Normally the sleeve stays in the bushing - mine did.
To get yours off: Check to see if it has been crimped to the bolt and repair if possible. Put penetrating oil between the bushing and the bolt. WD-40 will also help. Allow to soak in, then gently grip with pliers and unscrew the bolt. Plan B: heat the bushing with a propane torch, trying to heat only the bushing and not the bolt. Grab with pliers and work off or drive the bolt out with a mallet
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Old 05-24-2009, 12:35 AM   #4
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I turned the bolt/sleeve/washer/clamp upside down, rested the clamp on an open vice so there's room for the bolt to come out and hit the end of the bolt with a hammer using a counter punch. Came out with twenty blows or so.
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Old 05-24-2009, 12:46 AM   #5
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I don't really have a workshop, many tools (no vice) or the space to do work these days, but I didn't figure on a riser install requiring more than a couple tools.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHawk47
The sleeve is there to limit the compression of the rubber bushing. It is important.
Normally the sleeve stays in the bushing - mine did.
Thanks!

All these years, I've never had to pull my bars off of a bike. Pulled the engine out of one, but never the bars... And I have a knack for finding the one part on the edge of spec (self-welding apparently!).

It seems that the sleeve also keeps side to side movement limited.
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Old 05-24-2009, 05:52 AM   #6
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I installed the TT 20mm risers yesterday and had the same problem.
Apparently the anti-corrosion plating on the OEM bolts is quite generous

I got mine out similar to Wildman -- you could prop the part up upside-down on a couple of scraps of board and whack it from the threaded end - put something small on center of bolt so that it doesn't peen over the ends of the threads (like a smaller screwdriver) then whack the screwdriver. ... in case you want to go back to stock again....

with 20mm riser the clutch cable was fine, and the front brake cable was "OK", but for me I think 20mm of riser was about the limit for the brake cable. Be sure to check your cables/hoses and make sure you have enough clearance across the range of motion of the bars!
(I have F658GS which is slightly different).

As a side note, I am not so happy that most of the aftermarket parts folks are supplying regular allen head bolts, so I'm ending up with a mix but it should not be a part I have to take off in the field.

JRWooden screwed with this post 05-24-2009 at 05:59 AM
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:12 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden
... As a side note, I am not so happy that most of the aftermarket parts folks are supplying regular allen head bolts, so I'm ending up with a mix but it should not be a part I have to take off in the field.
Same with the Wunderlich risers.
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:25 AM   #8
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Mixing fastners

It would have been nice if Touratech had stuck with torx as well for the rear rack as well. I have to carry every size and type of tool since it is usually to work on my buddies bikes...
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:27 AM   #9
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Yeah, I had to get one of these to add to my always-on-the-bike tool kit:



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Old 05-24-2009, 02:11 PM   #10
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I completed the riser install and torqued all bolts to 25nm. I used blue loctite on the bottom nuts as well.

I never noticed before (which doesn't mean it wasn't the case), but now I can move the bars forward and backward slightly. They aren't rotating in the clamps, but are moving on the plastic bushings. It's very slight, maybe 1/8" of movement total at the grips. It also requires some effort to get them to move (ie: they don't rattle back and forth or anything).

Before I head out and ride I thought I'd ask if anyone else has some movement in their bars as well.
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Old 05-24-2009, 02:21 PM   #11
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Did you know

I used the risers off my 1200GS perfect fit uses the same bolts as when installed on the 1200. link to picture
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=404151
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Old 05-24-2009, 02:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkesp
I used the risers off my 1200GS perfect fit uses the same bolts as when installed on the 1200. link to picture
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=404151
But do the bars move in relation to the triple tree (see above post)?
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Old 05-24-2009, 02:46 PM   #13
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well

I didn't notice any movement, but I would guess if it is more noticeable now it would be due to there being more leverage with the longer risers. I'm not trying to say one set is better than the other just that you could use the 1200GS risers if you had them already (as I did) and didn't want to buy the ones for the 800GS.
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Old 05-24-2009, 02:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkesp
I didn't notice any movement, but I would guess if it is more noticeable now it would be due to there being more leverage with the longer risers. I'm not trying to say one set is better than the other just that you could use the 1200GS risers if you had them already (as I did) and didn't want to buy the ones for the 800GS.
I don't think what risers you use matters, only the amount of extension they provide.

I double checked the play and it's much less than I thought and requires much more effort to move the bars at all. I have a tendency to notice extreme details. However, I will keep an eye on it and compare it to other F800GSs as soon as I can.
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Old 05-24-2009, 03:41 PM   #15
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Wiggle

I can feel a little wiggle. I torqued it all to 25nm so I'm not worried. They aren't coming off thats for sure.
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