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Old 12-26-2011, 03:41 PM   #61
Motor 1
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I have put the Ricor rear & front on an '07 DR650 (3,100miles)......... Absolutely pleased w/them. Nice planted feel in a curve w/the foot peg almost to the asphalt (tires are MT 21's). As some have already said, the 'wallow/pogo' effect is gone and the bike just plain feels easier to manage. Just had it in the dirt a bit but 'the feel' is very good! Ricor seems to have hit the nail on the head w/this product. Thanks Ricor and to the folks here for all the invaluable information
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:27 PM   #62
hoyks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
update: KLR has oil drain screws. DR does not.
some DR owners remove lower rod screw and drain however.
'08 + KLR also has no drain plug so it is easier just to remove the leg.
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:09 PM   #63
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I had to measure up the ID of my TT350 41mm forks so Brian could find the closest match.
Ended up with Triumph Scrambler ones.
Revalved the stack from 1x0.13", 2x0.12" to 1x0.13", 1x0.12" and 1x0.10" shims via a bit of playing...

More brake dive than the DR but more supple. Exactly as I wanted it as it's my "extreme" bike

Now to do something about the rear shock that's got no oil and only gas left...
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:15 AM   #64
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I installed the Ricor Intiminators and rear shock on my KLR this winter. It is a HUGE improvement over stock. Well worth the money.
I have the 220 - 270 spring on the rear shock, it is for sure stiffer than stock, but i quickly got use to it. It doesn't wallow over dips in the road or pot holes anymore. Just soaks up ANYTHING.
I think that the stock shock setup was too soft.

I would recommend this suspension upgrade to anyone. Well worth it.

I removed the forks from the bike for ease of draining and re filling the oil. I am 210 with the Stock springs, the stock spacers cut down the same amount as the thickness of the valve. It feels fine. I cant quite remember how much race sag i have in the front. I think it was 2.75"
and i have the recommended 3.5 in the rear.

I use to have a hard time keeping up to by riding partner on gravel roads and 2 track stuff, Not any more. this new suspension has given me the confidence to drive the bike as it was meant to be driven.
Cant say enough good things. I haven't loaded the bike full of camping gear yet... Looking forward to that.
Mile Maker: Just ordered the Ricors for my '09 KLR. Then read all this thread. Did you do any of the fork preload measuring? And you shortened the internal spacer 1/2"....or did you make new from PVC pipe? Did you put in 19.8 oz like the KLR manual sez for clean empty forks? My goal is to get rid of the nosedive.....Thanks
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Old 12-31-2011, 10:59 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
Mile Maker: Just ordered the Ricors for my '09 KLR. Then read all this thread. Did you do any of the fork preload measuring? And you shortened the internal spacer 1/2"....or did you make new from PVC pipe? Did you put in 19.8 oz like the KLR manual sez for clean empty forks? My goal is to get rid of the nosedive.....Thanks
You'll be sweet with the stock amount of oil.
Shorten or make a spacer the length of the stocker minus the thickness of the Intiminator.

Although on the DR it's designed to work with the stock length spacer.
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Old 01-01-2012, 07:33 AM   #66
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Thanks for the info on Intiminators for KLR. I purchased some 1" Schedule 40 PVC pipe. I'll cut spacers out of that 1/2" shorter than the stock spacers. Cost $2...if I want to increase preload, I can make some longer ones, or re-use the stock ones uncut. Seems like stock preload is about 15mm. Sure are some rave results for these things in KLR's as well as DR's.
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Old 01-01-2012, 12:42 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
Sure are some rave results for these things in KLR's as well as DR's.
I'm also running Triumph Scrambler ones in my little Yam TT350.
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:38 AM   #68
Benesesso
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
no. 5wt oil is used for proper flow w/ Intiminators & stock hole size on the rod. even with enlarged holes (from Emulator install) the flow rate is still controlled/metered by the Intiminators. Using 5wt oil max flow occurs with stock or enlarged holes when using Nators.

what is different is Intiminator valves controls the fork better than Emulator valves.
In other words you had the huge benefit of having removed the damper tubes and enlarging and drilling more compression holes BEFORE you installed the Intim. goodies, right? Could that be why your forks felt so "plush"? W/o the damper tube hole mods., most tubes cannot flow enough oil on big sharp bumps, even with 2 1/2 weight oil. If the damper tube holes are too small, it doesn't mean diddley what's above, because the oil has to flow thru them BEFORE it gets up to the spring-loaded valves.

With more tube holes added and enlarged, you can use heavier oil for more rebound damping if desired. Try that with the stock holes and you'll feel the jolts. Neither brand of spring-loaded valves have any effect on rebound.

I have to wonder if you had taken the time to change the spring tension on the Race Tech emulators to optimize them for your conditions. Having put Race Tech emulators in about 8 bikes I never had any problems with "plushness" or front-end dive, once they were set right. The key is to add and enlarge the damper tube holes, unless you ride on real smooth streets all the time.
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:27 AM   #69
NordieBoy
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Originally Posted by Benesesso View Post
Neither brand of spring-loaded valves have any effect on rebound.

I have to wonder if you had taken the time to change the spring tension on the Race Tech emulators to optimize them for your conditions. Having put Race Tech emulators in about 8 bikes I never had any problems with "plushness" or front-end dive, once they were set right. The key is to add and enlarge the damper tube holes, unless you ride on real smooth streets all the time.
Sounds like you've never used Intiminators.

There's RaceTech Emulators and YSS PD valves in the spring loaded camp and Intiminators in the shim stack, no spring-loading camp.
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:40 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Sounds like you've never used Intiminators.

There's RaceTech Emulators and YSS PD valves in the spring loaded camp and Intiminators in the shim stack, no spring-loading camp.
Nope, never seen one. How much do they cost? Also have never seen the insides of a Suzuki DR fork. But I do know something about physics and fluid flow. You?
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:03 AM   #71
NordieBoy
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Nope, never seen one. How much do they cost? Also have never seen the insides of a Suzuki DR fork. But I do know something about physics and fluid flow. You?
Yep, I've seem them and seen the insides of DR forks.
Physics, yes.
Fluid flow, only from glass vessels.

They cost about 50% more than Emulators over here but you don't need to get springs as well.
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:43 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Yep, I've seem them and seen the insides of DR forks.
Physics, yes.
Fluid flow, only from glass vessels.

They cost about 50% more than Emulators over here but you don't need to get springs as well.
You don't need new springs with emulators. It's so easy to make them stiffer by cutting coils off. The number of coils (called active coils) in a given spring has a big influence on the spring rate. Cutting a few off, especially from the close-spaced end if there's a difference, will stiffen it. Spacers made from either steel or PVC tubing takes up the slack.

Here's a neat spring rate calculator for non-progressive springs.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...springrate.htm

So, let's add things up. Using adjustable R/T emulators and removing the compression-flow restrictions of stock damper tubes gives you freedom from sharp bump jolts. You also get the ability to vary rebound damping via using different weight oil, and you get lots of anti-dive as well. Cutting a few coils off gives stiffer springs, and it's easy to cut, reinstall and try them on the road/dirt and cut another coil off if needed.

With the Intiminators you haven't done anything about the sharp bump "hydraulic locking" and since it appears you must use 5 wt. oil (lots of variation among brands) you lose the abilty to change the rebound control--all for 50% higher price. Am I missing something here?
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:35 PM   #73
NordieBoy
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Originally Posted by Benesesso View Post
With the Intiminators you haven't done anything about the sharp bump "hydraulic locking" and since it appears you must use 5 wt. oil (lots of variation among brands) you lose the abilty to change the rebound control--all for 50% higher price. Am I missing something here?
The ability to separate, to a large extent, chassis and wheel damping?

I agree that the damper rod holes should be enlarged to give more oil weight rebound control but they work pretty well as is.

The sharper the bump the better they work. A small ramp-type lip is quite heavily damped whereas a 90* edge of the same height is smoother through the bars.

Also the installation is slightly easier than that for Emulators.
Especially for those who are not mechanically minded.
No removing damper rods, no drilling, no shortening springs.
Remove cap, remove spacer, remove spring, drain oil, new oil to suit, drop Intiminator on top of damper rod, replace spring, spacer, top cap.

I prefer the handling and ride of Intiminators to Emulators. That's why I got some for my TT after the Emulators in my old XR.

Some don't. Usually racers or ex-racers who are used to traditional style of handling/ride.

For me, it's better.
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:52 PM   #74
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I put the Ricor valves in my KLR, rode it on regular maintained gravel and unmaintained gravel with washouts, rough spots etc. the bike rides real smooth, i have not rode the bike on single track or on real rough stuff, so i cant say how the bike would handle.

I put the R/T Gold valves on the DR, it does not ride so smooth on gravel but you can get in the rough and single track and it will take whatever you throw at it, i am sure i could do some tuning and get the Gold valves to sooth out a little on rock roads, i would need to read up or ask for some tips, i just drilled the holes in the rod, installed them, put in the 10wt fluid and wanted to use that as a base line.


Just some feedback for what its worth, i know its apples and oranges because we are talking 2 different bikes.
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:13 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
The ability to separate, to a large extent, chassis and wheel damping?

I agree that the damper rod holes should be enlarged to give more oil weight rebound control but they work pretty well as is.

The sharper the bump the better they work. A small ramp-type lip is quite heavily damped whereas a 90* edge of the same height is smoother through the bars.

Also the installation is slightly easier than that for Emulators.
Especially for those who are not mechanically minded.
No removing damper rods, no drilling, no shortening springs.
Remove cap, remove spacer, remove spring, drain oil, new oil to suit, drop Intiminator on top of damper rod, replace spring, spacer, top cap.

I prefer the handling and ride of Intiminators to Emulators. That's why I got some for my TT after the Emulators in my old XR.

Some don't. Usually racers or ex-racers who are used to traditional style of handling/ride.

For me, it's better.
Fully agree the Intim's are much easier to install. Not sure about that "chassis damping" vs wheel damping. The damping relationship is between the wheel and the chassis--they're not separable.

My old '86 KDX200 forks were horrible on washboard roads, even with 2 1/2 wt. oil. I felt every ridge thru the bars. Did the damper tube mod, installed the as-received emulators, put 15 wt. oil in and they were fine.

One things for sure, stock damper tubes suck.
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