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Old 07-03-2010, 01:07 PM   #31
a1fa OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvgonzo
If you go by a Yamaha shop with your old ones and a list of what thicknesses you want, they will usually just swap them out.

At least that is what they do out here.

Saves a few bucks for the more important things needed out in the shop.....like some suds to suck down!
Good idea! I'll try to do that first. My local shop has got none in stock. They suck as a Hoovers on a good day.

I am contemplating on buying that additional gas tank, and a Probillet rack! Any side panniers that would bolt? DRZ Panniers??

Thanks!
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Old 07-03-2010, 07:03 PM   #32
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Stock is almost always more expensive and not always better. I'd go with the Pro X myself.
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Old 07-03-2010, 07:32 PM   #33
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Somebody told me you could get a pretty complete set for around 100 bucks or so but in my experience you always seem to need at least a couple that are the same size. That is why it is so nice the dealers will swap em out. I guess there is also a chance they might not have a particular size but I have never yet had that happen.

I found a brand new still in the plastic shrink wrap Pro Moto Billet rear rack for mine on e-bay several years back for only 50 bucks.

And there are some nice soft bags (I think they were called Dirt Bagz? or something close to that) that fit up on a buddies WR and also KTM's real nice. Never did get a set though.
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Old 07-03-2010, 08:19 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a1fa
Since I am talking to myself;

Does anyone know the difference between Yamaha stock valve shims vs. Pro X Valve Shims? The difference is $6.7 between the two. Yamaha Stock is $8, while Pro X are $1.30.

Thanks!
There many be tolerance differences between the stock and Pro X shims, but that's not a big deal. I have a Hotcams shim kit. One of the shims was a couple thousandths wider than the others and it would not fit in the valve so I threw it out. Even if you have to throw a couple out, it's still a lot cheaper to go aftermarket.

One problem I've had with stock and aftermarket shims is the marked size is not always 100% accurate. I bought the shim kit because I got tired of buying a shim, getting home, measuring it and finding out it's not what was marked on it. If you don't get an entire shim kit then you should bring your calipers with you to the dealership to make sure you're getting the size you want.
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:22 PM   #35
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Valve check. Pro-X shims are in the mail. The Yamaha store will not trade their shims. I guess its who you know.

Intake
1 ----- 2 ----- 3
.004 -- .005 -- .004 inch
.102 -- .127 -- .102 mm
190 ---190 --- 190 current pad
185 --- 185 --- 185 replacement pad

Exhaust
1 ----- 2
.009 -- .008 inch
.229 -- .203 mm
185 -- 185 current pad
180 -- 180 replacement pad

Can a leak-down test be done with cams off the bike (valves in closed position)?
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:18 AM   #36
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That sucks!

I have spent quite a few bucks in that shop over the years and have even ridden with the owners on occasion so that probably does account for something.
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Old 07-13-2010, 03:02 AM   #37
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Valves are supposed to be shut for the leak down test.
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Old 07-13-2010, 04:47 AM   #38
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Missed that question about the valves.

Yes, as LILBIT stated they should be closed and I imagine the leakdown test would work fine with the cams out as the valves still have their springs on, although since it has been sitting a while you will not have much oil up around the piston and rings which might allow it to leak down a little bit faster.
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Old 07-17-2010, 05:03 PM   #39
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YZ450 cam is in. Autodecomp works as advertised, however it's still hard on my neck to kick it over. I can no longer justify to keep the bike.. I'm looking for a WR250R to compliment the F800GS, or a scooter.. those little rascals are fun!
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Old 07-18-2010, 05:55 AM   #40
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Must have been in a daze with my last post (too early in the AM!).

You NEED to have the cam in and operational for a leak down test because you have to ba able to have the cylinder able to "breathe" in order to perform it. It the valves are not moving to allow it to pressurize as it sucks in you cannot do a leak down check correctly.
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Old 07-18-2010, 06:46 AM   #41
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?? A leakdown test is done by adding compressed air into the cylinder through a regulator, and measuring the amount of air lost past rings or valves with a pair of gauges and a restriction... The valves stay closed during a leakdown test. And could be done without the cams installed. A compression test on the other hand would require the valve train to be operational as you stated... As it uses a guage screwed into the spark plug to measure how much air pressure the engine produces when being cranked over. 2 different tests.
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Old 08-16-2010, 01:42 PM   #42
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bumpage... What kind of mpg are you getting out of your WR?
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:51 AM   #43
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With mine, which is jetted too rich and I'm still working on it. About 44 MPG on a run of mostly road type conditions.
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:56 AM   #44
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With mine, which is jetted too rich and I'm still working on it. About 44 MPG on a run of mostly road type conditions.
How fast do you usually cruise? My bike's sweet spot is 55mph, but it can easily do 75mph.
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Old 08-17-2010, 07:24 AM   #45
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How fast do you usually cruise? My bike's sweet spot is 55mph, but it can easily do 75mph.
Yeah, about that. Usually around 60 or so on open back country roads. I have to ride those to get to the trails around my place since the USFS has seen fit to close hundreds of miles of trails and roads.
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