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Old 02-08-2009, 01:11 PM   #1
Dert Gerl OP
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F800GS - Coolant bleeder?

Hey I don't have a service manual yet. Can someone who does tell me where to bleed the coolant?

Muchas Gracias!
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Old 02-08-2009, 01:41 PM   #2
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:04 PM   #3
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Should work just to do it from a hose fitting....
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Old 02-08-2009, 06:31 PM   #4
Dert Gerl OP
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Hmmmm ....

On my little bikes there's a bleeder screw to get the air out of the system if you've taken it apart. No bleeder on the 800?
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Old 02-08-2009, 08:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dert Gerl
On my little bikes there's a bleeder screw to get the air out of the system if you've taken it apart. No bleeder on the 800?

There's the great big one where you pour the coolant in...
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Old 02-08-2009, 08:12 PM   #6
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Okay, so after my smartassed comment, I actually went and checked the service manual.


Technical data Coolant, total capacity 1.65 l

Remove cap (2) and slowly pour in coolant until the level reaches the edge of the filler neck (arrow).

Open bleed screw (3).

Close bleed screw (3) when the escaping coolant is free of bubbles.

Top up with coolant until the level reaches the edge of the filler neck (arrow). Install filler cap (2).

Top up the expansion tank to the MAX mark. Install cap (1).
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Old 02-09-2009, 08:34 AM   #7
Dert Gerl OP
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And you thought I was making this stuff up!

Quote:
Originally Posted by PackMule
Okay, so after my smartassed comment, I actually went and checked the service manual.


Technical data Coolant, total capacity 1.65 l

Remove cap (2) and slowly pour in coolant until the level reaches the edge of the filler neck (arrow).

Open bleed screw (3).

Close bleed screw (3) when the escaping coolant is free of bubbles.

Top up with coolant until the level reaches the edge of the filler neck (arrow). Install filler cap (2).

Top up the expansion tank to the MAX mark. Install cap (1).
Thank you! That's what I was looking for!
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Old 06-17-2009, 10:02 AM   #8
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:54 PM   #9
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No recommended service interval?

Maybe I'm missing it ... but I can't find the recommended service interval for flushing the coolant system....

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Old 08-09-2010, 03:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden
Maybe I'm missing it ... but I can't find the recommended service interval for flushing the coolant system....

Once every 2 years, it's in the service DVD, just well hidden
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Old 08-09-2010, 04:08 PM   #11
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P.S.

The factory method does not always work for getting the air out of the cooling system and the bike does not self bleed at all.

After 2 service bulletins describing different methods of bleeding, BMW finally said "too hell with it" and made a special tool to do the job that costs a tunn.

We now have that special tool, but before we got it, I came up with a method that has always worked for me.

1: Slowly fill the system from the radiator till it is full to the tippy top.

2: Open bleed screw pictured in posts above till air stops coming out, then retighten.

3: Fill radiator back to the tippy top and replace radiator cap.

4: Start bike and idle for a few minutes, open bleed screw for a few seconds and retighten.

5: Rev engine to 4,000 rpm or so and rock bike slowly from side to side with rpms high, then hold straight or center stand and open bleed screw for a few more seconds (coolant will be HOT, don't remove your dermis).

6: Shut off bike and allow to cool down (at least 30 minutes, carefully open radiator cap and fill to tippy top, replace radiator cap.

7: Start bike and allow to idle till cooling fan comes on.

GOOD: If it took a long time for the fan to come on, the whole radiator is too hot to continuesly touch from behind, and the fan is blowing off a lot of heat, go ride, everything is working!

BAD: If the cooling fan comes on pretty quick, the back of the radiator is not to hot to continuesly touch everywhere, and the fan is not blowing off a lot of hot air but rather just warm air from the hot motor and exaust surfaces, you failed, repeat steps above.

Once the system acts normally, fill the catch tank to the maximum line while the bike is hot and cooling fan is cycling on and off. Go for a few rides allowing the bike to cool completely between and check that coolant in the catch tank has remained above the minimum line.

Congradulations, you've just bled the air out of a cooling system that is sometimes a bitch to do so :)
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:52 PM   #12
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Bleeding the cooling system........

Thanks (for the 200th time) Joel

I'm gonna have to ask my local dealer to see the exhotic tool next time I'm in the dealership ... if they have one!

I'm coming up on 2 years ... I remember the manual says to use
"Nitrite-free long-life antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor". I use the Prestone "extended life / mixes with all colors" stuff in the rest of my vehicles, but am not sure that it is Nitrite-free ...

I wonder if I'm good to go with that or if I need to find the special BMW-blue stuff?

Updates posted 07/13:
1) I talked to Prestone and they said their anti-freeze was nitrite-free,
they make a special "motorsports" version which is designed for motorcycles and other small displacement engines, but I could not find it in stores and just used regular prestone it seems to work fine.

2) In addition to the bleeder screw on the water pump housing there is a 2nd one on the front of the engine above the starter on the left side of the bike - use that one as well!

3) When he says fill the radiator to the tippy-top he MEANS it... that's critical...
you will likely have to repeat the bleeding from the water pump bleeder several times.

4) Also note that the line from the remote plastic reservoir for some idiot reason (please share if you know why) comes out of the BOTTOM ...
so when you take off the radiator cap the entire contents of the reservoir come running out unless you've pinched off the hose first ... I used a pair of vice grips with sections of tubing over the jaws to protect the hose.


JRWooden screwed with this post 07-17-2013 at 05:20 AM
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Old 08-10-2010, 06:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden
Thanks (for the 200th time) Joel

I'm gonna have to ask my local dealer to see the exhotic tool next time I'm in the dealership ... if they have one!

I'm coming up on 2 years ... I remember the manual says to use
"Nitrite-free long-life antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor". I use the Prestone "extended life / mixes with all colors" stuff in the rest of my vehicles, but am not sure that it is Nitrite-free ...

I wonder if I'm good to go with that or if I need to find the special BMW-blue stuff?
I use Honda's blue/green stuff...
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Old 08-10-2010, 08:51 PM   #14
JRWooden
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Thanks Tor!

Yah wouldn't think this would be that hard eh?

For grins, I called Prestone today, and they confirmed their "Extended life / mixes with any color" antifreeze is Nitrite free.

Then he noted that Presone also sells a special product for sport equipment:

"Prestone® Xtreme Sport Prediluted Motorcycle Coolant"
It comes pre-diluted in a smaller 64 oz bottle not sure of the price, it does not seem to be carried in the stores in NC...

JRWooden screwed with this post 08-11-2010 at 10:00 AM
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Old 09-07-2010, 04:04 PM   #15
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Well - Thanks to you guys, I have a chance in fixing my 798's coolant problem that sprung up this past week. My bike was fine for the past 3 months/3,300 miles - before that it was brand new.
I changed out to progressive springs and added fork gaiters a week ago. The next day riding I noticed just a little coolant spray/drips around my fake tank close to the bars which I assumed was residual fork oil from drippage. The day after I saw it dried up - not oil! I still did not suspect a coolant problem because my temp was normal. Next day, more spray so now I check the catch tank and see it is full to the top! I read the thread on high heat/altitude geysers and said nah, my temp is normal and it's only a slight spray and not that hot and I'm not that high. So I sucked out a bit of coolant (8 oz) to bring the catch tank level in between marks. I then read Joel's GOOD test above and was pleased last night that my bike passed. It passed again on the way to work this morning.
Then I rode home, more spray, got home, fan on but forced air not hot, temp climbing past normal for the first time ever, red triangle flashing, so I immediately cut off the engine. So I guess it's time to try Joel's radiator bleeding procedure which I am glad to have.
But WHY did this happen? I understand BMW frowns on gaiters because they interfere with air flow to the radiator but that can't really be the cause of air in my coolant system, can it? We pumped the bike up/down when changing the springs but not any more than a little hill surmounting would do. What gives?
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