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Old 03-13-2013, 02:15 PM   #136
Mach Z
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Now that I've been riding the bike a lot lately (all winter), gotta say, it's much smoother transitioning off idle and I haven't had a hand cramp since installing the new grips. I used to cramp up regularly.
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:05 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach Z View Post
Now that I've been riding the bike a lot lately (all winter), gotta say, it's much smoother transitioning off idle and I haven't had a hand cramp since installing the new grips. I used to cramp up regularly.
Surprising isn't it?
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:35 PM   #138
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Considering this for my wife's GS. Anyone think I could just grind a notch in the G2 similar to what the stock throttle tube has to allow the wires the pass through? That way I wouldn't have to cut into the switch housing?


[QUOTE=YetiGS;11442573]After a particularly rocky ride, I called at Sam at G2 Ergonomics to see when he'd officially have the G2 Tamer Tube for the F800GS. Turns out, Sam had just ordered the first batch and he agreed to send me the first one!! He now has them in stock although they're still not on the website. HERE


Of course then I rode every weekend and then got sick so it wasn't until today that I was able to install it. So here's how it goes.

This is what you get:



The tube and a G2 sticker are inside.




Take note of where the heating element wires leave the tube in relation to where the throttle cable hooks onto the tube. You want to make sure when you put it on the G2 that the wires are in pretty much the same location.

To remove the heating element from the tube, you cut off the little tabs you can see along the middle of the tube. I used a brand new razor and worked very carefully to trim them down, always slicing away from the wires in the element. Then the heating element can be peeled off the stock tube.


Here's a comparison of the two tubes:



I didn't take a picture of the next step, but essentially you just wrap the heating element around the G2 tube. Mine had enough "stick" that I didn't need to glue the element on the G2, it just stuck in place.


You then need to slightly notch the housing cover to let the wires pass through. I put a small piece of electrical tape over the notch so there wouldn't be a sharp edge.






Here you can see how the wires route out of the switch housing and onto the tube. Give the throttle a few twists to make sure you have enough slack and adjust as needed before finally buttoning everything up. I used a small wrap of electrical tape to make everything look better. I would have preferred to use shrink wrap but the little chinga on the wires wouldn't let me slide the right size shrink wrap over it.


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Old 04-01-2013, 05:44 PM   #139
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Laugh

Man ... I hate to see people doing this to their bikes....


[QUOTE=socially stunted;21086441]
Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS View Post
After a particularly rocky ride, I called at Sam at G2 Ergonomics to see when he'd officially have the G2 Tamer Tube for the F800GS. Turns out, Sam had just ordered the first batch and he agreed to send me the first one!! He now has them in stock although they're still not on the website. HERE


Of course then I rode every weekend and then got sick so it wasn't until today that I was able to install it. So here's how it goes.

This is what you get:



The tube and a G2 sticker are inside.




Take note of where the heating element wires leave the tube in relation to where the throttle cable hooks onto the tube. You want to make sure when you put it on the G2 that the wires are in pretty much the same location.

To remove the heating element from the tube, you cut off the little tabs you can see along the middle of the tube. I used a brand new razor and worked very carefully to trim them down, always slicing away from the wires in the element. Then the heating element can be peeled off the stock tube.


Here's a comparison of the two tubes:



I didn't take a picture of the next step, but essentially you just wrap the heating element around the G2 tube. Mine had enough "stick" that I didn't need to glue the element on the G2, it just stuck in place.


You then need to slightly notch the housing cover to let the wires pass through. I put a small piece of electrical tape over the notch so there wouldn't be a sharp edge.






Here you can see how the wires route out of the switch housing and onto the tube. Give the throttle a few twists to make sure you have enough slack and adjust as needed before finally buttoning everything up. I used a small wrap of electrical tape to make everything look better. I would have preferred to use shrink wrap but the little chinga on the wires wouldn't let me slide the right size shrink wrap over it.




Considering this for my wife's GS. Anyone think I could just grind a notch in the G2 similar to what the stock throttle tube has to allow the wires the pass through? That way I wouldn't have to cut into the switch housing?
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:00 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS View Post

Is that small hole in the G2 big enough to pass the grip heater wires through if you de-soldered them? Or does it even go through to the other side for that matter?
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:20 AM   #141
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The problem is not so much the hole to pass the wires through but that the stock tube assembly has a channel built in for the wire allowance within the cam. This extra wire is required to allow the grip full rotation to W.O.T. There is no room for that with the G2 set-up.
I have no regrets installing the G2. It definitely smoothed out the off-idle transition. I used to get hand cramps within 30 minutes with the stock grips. I have not had one since doing this mod with the larger more ergo grips.
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:20 PM   #142
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Yeah, I'm just wondering if it would be possible to drill or dremel out a hole or similar channel on the G2 for a cleaner/closer to stock look. The area where the channel sits is behind the throttle cable track anyway so there shouldn't be any conflict there, right?
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:47 PM   #143
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Seems like the hard way round to fix an easy problem.

I got the HTC Power Controller, put on thicker grips by using Renthal dirt bike grips and slid them over the puny BMW grips and that fixed it good. With a 15/41 sprocket the snatch was gone.
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Old 04-10-2013, 04:23 PM   #144
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Heat shrink does a clean job...



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Old 03-06-2014, 06:29 PM   #145
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I ordered the High Tech Coon Ass throttle "Power Controller" on Friday and it was shipped on Saturday, the next day. The "power controller" smoothed out the coarse running engine off idle. The change was subtle, so I took it on and off a few times and ran a slight up hill grade dirt trail with tight turns to test it out. I ran the course at idle and slowly accelerated in the tight up hill turns. Before the addition, the engine would want to "die" or "run roughly" when coming off of idle at slow speeds, under load (a slight up hill grade). To compensate, I would run the bike faster to keep it from stalling. In the tight dirt trails, my stock bike was unsafe. I wasn't controlling the bike, the bike was controlling me. The new addition made the bike safer in slow maneuvers at low idle speeds. In a perfect world, I would still prefer less power off idle for dirt trail work. More user friendly, like my KTM 450 EXC.

Summary: As Bayner said in Feb 2012 of a sensor device: "It makes the bike much easier to ride and less likely to stall at lower revs. It does not change the idle speed. It does not effect the temperature reading on the dash."

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Old 03-06-2014, 11:40 PM   #146
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I have made a number of changes over the years trying to control the abrupt throttle at low rpm. I have the throttle tamer, an Accelerator module and larger grips with grip cozies. They all incrementally made improvements.

Recently I added to all the others an AF-XiED oxygen sensor spoofer set at 13.8 AFR. I can't say it alone solved the problem, but its a very smooth bike that pulls from low rpm that is easily controlled. On most terrain, I can pull one gear taller than before.
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Old 03-07-2014, 07:55 AM   #147
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That is perfect. Congratulations. Good job. HOW MUCH DOES BMW OWE YOU FOR FIXING THEIR PROBLEM?

More details: I asked the service tech at San Diego BMW Kearny Mesa if there was "mapping" I could use to lower the HP off idle. They said "no". "No one has ever asked that before." It was a hard answer to accept considering all the performance options we have that come standard on autos and some bikes. Just a wire to disengage for "economy", "performance", "sport" to change the timing or fuel delivery would be helpful. In the old days, we could change a fuel jet. Good job hanging in there with your f800 to fix the problem. I hope you have some hair left and it is not torn out of your head and laying on the floor.

In July 2012 "Itsatdm" said:

"The fuel modules do richen up the throttle. In fact, I can actually lug the engine. If you can do that, it will give you the ability to load the engine at crawling speed without fear of it dying and won't immediately go into light switch mode. Good enough that the 15 tooth sprocket went back into the box. On typical fire roads I can actually use a 17 tooth for most roads as long as they are not steep switch backs. The stock 16 tooth is good enough for a wide range of terrain."

True enough.

I am not sure your second wish of 2012 came true. "I think improvement enough, that if I bought another F800gs, all those mods are coming off and onto the new bike."

(My bike is an f800gs 2013.)

Keep the faith!

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Old 03-07-2014, 09:42 AM   #148
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Here is another long winded dialogue on my thoughts on this. The best solution is suspension upgrades.

My first major ride on my new bike was Saline/Death Valley. I did some of the typical roads, like Jail Canyon, Hunter Mountain, Lippincott, etc. Lots of rocky terrain and I felt every impact through the bars and fed it into the throttle. It does not take much throttle input to rocket you into the next set of rocks.

The first mod was the throttle tamer. At least little twists of the throttle had less effect on the amount of fuel going to the engine.

The next was suspension. I have had a laundry of suspension mods. What I am currently running is not the best, but at least the impacts through the bars is lessoned and I am less likely to inadvertently twist the throttle due shocks past up through the handlebars.

Then came the temp spoofer. It seemed to work. I believed everything I wrote in 2012. I am beginning to have some doubts.

Roger 04RT has posted a lot of data, much of it confusing to me. A lot of the research was done on other models of BMW.

I am still not sure how much adapting takes place, but I am becoming convinced that it takes more throttle to get the bike into open loop than I thought. If true, then the benefits of a temp spoofer will occur at higher rpms than I believed.

As far as the 16 vs 17 sprocket. You rarely hear a complaint from F658 gs owner about an abrupt throttle. Could be the mapping, where they ride or they are lugging the engine more and that requires more throttle. If the latter then they and me were spending more time in open loop. In any event not something I would recommend for harder terrain, but perfectly satisfactory for pavement and easier dirt.

The initial effects of the AF-Xied are immediate. Over time, the engine gets smoother and the rpm range where it is felt broadens. In other words it is working when the bike is in open loop. So some adapting is obviously taking place.

I covered all my bets and kept the temp spoofer while adding the AF-XiED. Whether it is one or the other or combination of both, I love it.
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Old 03-07-2014, 08:10 PM   #149
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[QUOTE=itsatdm;23636972My first major ride on my new bike was Saline/Death Valley. I did some of the typical roads, like Jail Canyon, Hunter Mountain, Lippincott, etc. Lots of rocky terrain and I felt every impact through the bars and fed it into the throttle. It does not take much throttle input to rocket you into the next set of rocks.


I've experienced the same thing. I've gone up steep rocky hills standing on the pegs and the engine rpm keeps changing as the throttle twist with the bike motion. A throttle tamer helped. One problem I see is there is so little tension on the throttle that it doesn't take much to twist it. I've had problems with the web of my glove between the tumb and finger will twist the throttle when reaching for the brake. A stiffer throttle spring would help.
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Old 06-01-2014, 12:21 PM   #150
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I bought my second High Tech Coon Ass Throttle Controller. This one is for my wife's 2013 F700GS. It smoothed out the engine roughness at idle under load. Engine sounds better and runs smoother. A subtle difference, however, it does make the bike safer from stalling at slow speeds. I feel there was more of a problem with my 2013 F800GS that needed solving than my wife's bike issue.
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