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Old 11-22-2009, 09:10 AM   #31
Gangplank
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Yeti,
All I need are a few photos of the throttle part where the cable runs. That or I'll just take my apare to take a look at it. From there I'm thinking I might have some ideas.

No rush here as riding season is pretty much over. Went for a short one yesterday... 45 deg. on the way there... 34.7 on the way home.

BTW, anyone else notice that the temp flashes at you when you get down below about 37.
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Old 11-22-2009, 11:20 AM   #32
finestral
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Here they found another solution for the snatchy throttle:

http://f800riders.org/forum/showthre...t=20868&page=3
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Old 11-22-2009, 03:10 PM   #33
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS
Go for it Joel. Your candor and input here have been very valuable. Least I could do.
+1 on what YetiGS said Joel!
You have been a huge help to lots of us here....

If I ever get to St. Louie ... I'm tak'n you to dinner....
Along with Ryan and Mandy if they'll agree to be seen in public with me?

Jim
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Old 11-22-2009, 03:35 PM   #34
Bartron
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I can't remember where I saw this but I approached things from the other end - the throttle-cam end.

I had already done the 'hacksaw your throttle tube down a bit' mod and it was noticeable but not overwhelming so I was looking for a bit more gradation to throttle response.

Essentially, I made the throttle cam larger thus requiring more twist of the throttle to get an equivalent throttle-cam rotation - making it easier to titrate the throttle in slippery situations.

Since I'm not sure where I saw it, here's what's involved.

Open up the left side by taking off the little panel below the under-seat keyhole and then loosening or taking off the left side-panel.



You can then see and access the throttle cam. You open the throttle cam fully and slip a small gauge wire (I think this one's 14G) into the groove under the cable. Make sure it's set firmly in the groove. I made a mark with a Sharpie just to be able to monitor it slipping out.





Before turning on the bike, loosen the throttle cable ALL THE WAY. Make sure you have some slack. This way, you avoid turning on the bike and it hitting redline with a tight cable. Then, with the bike on, while turning the steering from lock to lock you can adjust out any tension on the throttle cable with movement of the bars from lock to lock.

After about 1,000 miles with this, I found a significant improvement in throttle attenuation with this totally and easily reversible mod.

Happy Tinkering [insert turkey-themed smilie here]
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Old 11-24-2009, 02:10 PM   #35
YetiGS
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Don't cut your throttle tubes!!

Hey everyone, just got off the phone with Sam at G2 to ask him about machining the G2 Tamer to include the space where the heater wires rest on the stock tube. He said they can't for a reason that is best illustrated by this picture:



As you can see, the distance between the inner edge of the throttle cable hole and the outter edge of the delrin bushing on the G2 is about half that of the stock throttle. G2 does that because if you don't bring the throttle cable hole in, the angle between the hole and the groove actually is steep enough that it initially negates the idea. They specifically and carefully machine the tube to give a 20% reduction in cable pull through the first 40 degrees of rotation, and the location of the hole is essential to this being smooth.

As you can see above, G2 moves the hole down into the area where the heater wires live on the stock tube so they can't machine out that space.

Sam also pointed something out, if you're cutting the stock tube you're actually cutting into the area where the heater wires are. If you cut through, you'll actually cut the wires. And, over time, the throttle cable will likely "saw" through what's left of the tube and into the heater wires which could cause a short.
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YetiGS screwed with this post 11-24-2009 at 02:55 PM
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:25 PM   #36
richmo1
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G2 Throttle Tamer - Works for me

I also purchased the G2 Throttle Tamer and followed the same path as YetiGS. For me I have to say this is definitely worth it. I took the bike up and down some really bumpy, rocky stuff. MUCH easier to keep a nice smooth throttle. I really like it.
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Old 01-06-2010, 10:00 PM   #37
YetiGS
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One thing people need to understand, the G2 cures the snatchy throttle which makes it easier to ride in rocky bits, etc. But it does NOT really cure the off idle snatchiness. It helps a lot, but it's still there. The only way to fix that is to figure out how to re-program the ECU.

But I love my G2!!
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Old 01-07-2010, 05:22 AM   #38
Motoriley
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Snatchiness

I thought "snatchiness" was a good thing....at least when I was single.
I've seen the post where folks are modifying the pulley at the other end. Wouldn't it be easier to swap that pulley out or is it not easily removable?

Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS
One thing people need to understand, the G2 cures the snatchy throttle which makes it easier to ride in rocky bits, etc. But it does NOT really cure the off idle snatchiness. It helps a lot, but it's still there. The only way to fix that is to figure out how to re-program the ECU.

But I love my G2!!
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Old 01-07-2010, 02:17 PM   #39
YetiGS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motoriley
I thought "snatchiness" was a good thing....at least when I was single.
I've seen the post where folks are modifying the pulley at the other end. Wouldn't it be easier to swap that pulley out or is it not easily removable?


Either way, the result is more or less the same. I didn't like the idea of modifying things at the throttle body end, and the G2 was a simple solution. It's also clear to me that the G2 had a lot of thought involved in its profile and how it was made specifically for the bike. The other fix seemed a bit hokey and imprecise to me.
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Old 03-07-2010, 08:14 PM   #40
Waino
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Caution for 2010

A few thoughts from my experience installing the G2 and heated grips on a 2010:

Post #20 in this thread does a great job of laying out the steps, however, the grips on my bike, a 2010, did not peel off as shown in the post. Each end, where the rubber contacts the throttle tube, the grip was essentially fused to the tube. There was no way to peel it off. I finally managed to get the heat element out, but it was not an easy process. You can see what the grip looked like when I was done.



I then tried to get too cute, and it bit me in the ass. I didn't want the two small wires routed externally without any protection. They are going to rub between the grip and throttle housing so I wanted to shrink tube them. So, I unsoldered them fromm the mylar heat element, stuck on some heat shrink tubing, and soldered them back - or so I thought. The connections looked good, but something went wrong and I didn't have a circuit. After a couple more attempts I had soldered through the mylar to the throttle body (good thing it's metal) and effectively trashed it. So there goes the OEM heat element.

Not to be easily defeated (after all, I had just destroyed a $171 heated grip), I bought a after market kit and using the wire connection from the destroyed OEM grip, I wired the aftermarket grip to the stock switch and it works. I was afraid that the new heat element would tirgger the CANBUS and power would be cut off. But it didn't and so now I have a heated, G2 throttle.

This pic shows what the wiring looks like from underneath.



The new heated grip does not get as hot as the left stock one. I'm sure that some of the issue is the thicker, ribbed grip I used. I'm going to try a thinner one and see if that makes a difference. Also, the grip heater I used had separate high and low input wires, and I used "low" (I was afraid of exceeding the limits imposed by the CANBUS. I never tested the high setting to see if it would work. I was getting tired of the project and was happy that low worked and just finished it.) Even though it's not as hot, I've used it several times now with temps in the low 40's (with Barkbusters) and my hands have stayed plenty warm.

Just to show that there a other ways to get this done, even if you screw up like me on the first attempt.
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Old 05-18-2010, 04:48 PM   #41
Maddaddy
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I've read others that have had their bikes remapped for the lower octane.

I called and scheduled to have mine done this Friday.

The tech advised me that this will reduce HP greatly.

They also warned me that it may all not take the re program

I will be the first they have done at SSBMW.

We shall wait and see.
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Old 05-18-2010, 05:25 PM   #42
Ducksbane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddaddy
I've read others that have had their bikes remapped for the lower octane.

I called and scheduled to have mine done this Friday.

The tech advised me that this will reduce HP greatly.

They also warned me that it may all not take the re program

I will be the first they have done at SSBMW.

We shall wait and see.
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:00 PM   #43
Magile
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Re-map...

will look like this -



I had mine re-mapped at the first service and never missed the extra HP above 7,000 rpm. When traveling backroads, I didn't want to fret if 87 or 89 octane was the only fuel available.

Cheers, M.
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:21 PM   #44
YetiGS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magile
I had mine re-mapped at the first service and never missed the extra HP above 7,000 rpm. When traveling backroads, I didn't want to fret if 87 or 89 octane was the only fuel available.

Cheers, M.
This brings up an interesting point: I thought 89 was ok to run in our bikes. Wrong? Should I be running 91??

Maybe that's why my mileage is so piss poor??
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:30 PM   #45
Magile
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS
This brings up an interesting point: I thought 89 was ok to run in our bikes. Wrong? Should I be running 91??

Maybe that's why my mileage is so piss poor??
I routinely get 220-240 miles per tank-full on 87 octane. How far does your's go? - M
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