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Old 08-15-2010, 01:44 PM   #841
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Sonthofen, Germany
Oddometer: 354
I have to say it again:

What an adventure!

Wonderful pics, beautiful impressions and an awesome RR!

Thank you very much!

Best greatings from Germany
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Old 08-16-2010, 05:33 AM   #842
tsiklonaut OP
the (in)famous boxer perv
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: semi-homeless
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Originally Posted by timk519
Where's a good airlift when you need one?
We're working on it.

Originally Posted by pachovilla
So chear up, enjoy your illegal overstay and keep on rolling...
Just hope we don't end up in Pakistani jail - visas expired almost 2 weeks ago...
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Old 08-16-2010, 05:42 AM   #843
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the (in)famous boxer perv
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Paki trucks

While we're struggling here with all the crap, here's some more cheerful stuff - Pakistani truck art!!!

Although Pakistan has left us a rather grim impression, with public performance considered a taboo in Islam (so no singing or dancing, except for the Ismaili Muslim wedding in Hunza), there still is some colour. I wonder if the truck drivers are (un)consciously trying to create some balance by introducing VERY lively colours and attributes to their trucks. And trucks like these are absolutely normal here - except for some military or police vehicles, all of them are like circus wagons. Amazing.


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Old 08-16-2010, 10:11 PM   #844
Butler Maps
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snoop dogs got no bling over those.
Butler Maps - motorcycle maps for riders by riders -
NM map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
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Old 08-17-2010, 01:13 AM   #845
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They really put effort in it. Even the details are done with care.
Best regards,

Transalp XL700VA 2009 yello
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Old 08-17-2010, 01:46 PM   #846
One continent at a time.
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Joined: May 2009
Location: North America
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And to think, Halrey riders pride themselves on their ability to customize Harley's. HA!

When I was in Afghanistan, we called them Jingle Trucks because of the noise they make when traveling down a road.
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Old 08-19-2010, 10:32 AM   #847
Beastly Adventurer
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Location: Binghamton, NY
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Finally caught up after reading this great report here at work over the last 3 days. All I can say is WOW. You two are really inspiring and I can't say enough about your report. I'm so sorry to hear of your situation. I hope something good happens soon for you both.
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Old 08-21-2010, 09:22 AM   #848
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Just a brief reminder from Skardu - how many women do you see on the street? Hence everybody stared at Kariina every time we walked around.

Briefly, we are now back in Islamabad. With the help from Allah (there were quite a few praying for us in Skardu), we managed to air-lift the bike and ourselves, too.

First the bike. Sure enough there was no other option than to put the bike on a passenger airplane. Impossible in the developed world, because it is considered dangerous cargo, but who cares, this is Pakistan! We removed everything we could (panniers, of course, and the windshield, but also the front wheel) from the bike in order for it to squeeze through the tiny cargo hold door some 110 cm high and 85 cm wide, but still there was a doubt if it would fit. After some three days of anxious waiting for the weather to clear (landing and taking off amidst Karakoram's mountaneous landscape is no easy feat, so it is no rare case for aircraft to go back where it came from without landing in Skardu just because it is cloudy), the plane came and took our bike. We felt deeply relieved.

Unpacking at the airport's bush.

W/o front wheel goes to the plane.

It was time to get ourseves to Islamabad, too. Due to bad weather only some 1/3 of scheduled flights were leaving Skardu, so the waiting list was terribly long. We could have waited for weeks, but since everyone in Pakistan seems to have a close relationship with some high ranking chap, we were put, with the much needed help from an airport maintenance guy, on a list of people requiring quick way out of Skardu - by a military airplane!

To be clear, it turned out to be there were quite many people "in distress" or just grabbing the opportunity for a free ride, so when the mighty C-130 arrived (after having been delayed first due to technical problems, and then by some clouds in the sky) and had been boarded, the huge cargo hold looked like some cattle wagon, with people sitting on the floor, and the bags and each other. Luckily it was only an hour long flight, so it did not really become uncomfortable. We arrived safe and sound, praising the Pakistan Air Force.

Some pics from the Karakoram mountains around Skardu airfield.

Pakistani Airforce C-130 Hercules that took us on.

Without any real ventilation, the flight was "exotic" to say the least...

With Pakistani soldiers.

Then we went to get our bike which had obviously been thrown around a bit as the seat was ripped, there were some scratches here and there, and there was a small oli leak from the cylinder. But what do you expect if you only pay USD 75 for the air-lift service!

Improvised a small front wheel to drag our heavy bike around.

Broken seat after the transport.

So the status report is as follows: we are back in Islamabad, but still a loooooong way from having cleared the troubles. The shock is still a secondary problem, as we are by now running out of time on our Carnet which means we have to get the bike out of Pakistan by the end of the month. The roads towards Iran (we finally got approval for the visas for both of us!), however, are either flooded or in bad shape or off-limits to foreigners, so it might not well be possible to get there in that time frame, and air freight straight from Islamabad to Dubai seems outrageously expensive. And, the passport office in Islamabad requires a whole week to process our visa extensions, so we either do not go anywhere or try to leave the country (not sure in which direction, though) on expired visas, and facing the unknown consequences (hopefully just a fine). To be honest, we have run out of options, and our optimism is fading.
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Old 08-21-2010, 10:23 AM   #849
Legend in my own Mind!
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Location: Buffalo Grove IL and Killing Threads...
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Sitting here at my keyboard with a broken leg, I truly enjoy your adventure and hope you make it out if there with all things being right. Donation sent.
AMA, NRA, AFL-CIO Getting Old ain't for pussies....................Lorazapam
Even when you do something right people will think you didn't do anything at all.
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Old 08-21-2010, 10:27 AM   #850
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Location: Cape Town, South Africa
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I really hope you get an amicable solution to the visa and the bike problem soon.
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Old 08-21-2010, 11:40 AM   #851
Studly Adventurer
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Keep on the positive will come good for you
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:33 AM   #852
Hadi Hussien
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Turkiye
Oddometer: 25
hi there from

Hi there,
u guys still in Pakistan?
I am in Karachi now.
taking time off from the ride.Parked my bike in Athens and and fly here to help the Flood Victims.
will be here for another week or so.
Keep in touch
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Old 08-25-2010, 11:16 AM   #853
twist your wrist!!!
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Joined: May 2005
Location: insanity is not as easy as i make it look
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have never used these guys. was shock shopping for my bike recently. anyone got any experience with them? have heard a lot about ohlins, good and bad, but they are not the only player. sounds like it might be time for a new brand.
We're gonna go ridin!!!
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Old 08-26-2010, 02:43 PM   #854
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Location: Tuscany, Italy
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Originally Posted by tsiklonaut
To be honest, we have run out of options, and our optimism is fading.
I know it doesn't help much, but we are thinking about you!

'02 R1150GS - Adds life
My Riding in Tuscany-thread is here.
Renting out motorbikes in Toscana, Italy
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Old 08-26-2010, 03:17 PM   #855
Wandering Mtn Goat
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Location: Orem, Utah
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Originally Posted by tagesk
I know it doesn't help much, but we are thinking about you!

I second that. I check this thread every day to check in.
‎"We shall not cease from exploration, And the end of all our exploring, Will be to arrive where we started, And know the place for the first time."

Family Youth Yoga and Future Farmers
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