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Old 09-12-2009, 07:35 AM   #16
skamikazee
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Is there a difrence beetween checking the engine oil level using the sidestand with a couple of stuff underneath so the bike stays completely upright, and checking as recomended with the bike on the centerstand?
I mean, the bike on the centerstand leans (is this the apropriate term!?!) a bit towards the front, elevating the back wheel, does that afect at all the position in wich the straw dips in the oil inside the engine?

I have to get a centerstand!

Cheers!!
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Old 09-12-2009, 08:31 AM   #17
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Quote:
Maybe a stupid question but what is the issue if you're a 8-16 oz overfilled?

As the crankshaft rotates it will churn the oil, causing aeration (getting air bubbles in) and eventually sustained foam may form. This can lead to overheated motor oil, oxidation and a loss of oil pressure. Spongy/foamy oil is hard to pump. It starves the engine and critical lubricated surfaces.
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Old 09-12-2009, 08:34 AM   #18
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Quote:
I have to get a centerstand!
Yes... you do. Not only for oil measuring, it will make your tire changes a lot easier and will be very helpful to lube your chain

Only con: it clanks when offroading
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Old 09-12-2009, 09:36 AM   #19
skamikazee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexcorral
Yes... you do. Not only for oil measuring, it will make your tire changes a lot easier and will be very helpful to lube your chain

Only con: it clanks when offroading

I was stating 2 I HAVE to get a centerstand" as in i'm buying a a centerstand for sure.

But the quesion still maintains!
Is there a considerable difrence between oil measurment with the bike on the centerstand and checking it with the bke stanting upright.
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Old 09-12-2009, 12:32 PM   #20
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Quote:
So what would you folks think if I said "every new BMW comes from the factory .25 to .75 liters over the full mark"?
I'd say: I didnř know that
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Old 09-12-2009, 01:31 PM   #21
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Diesel Engine Oil

Has anybody used diesel engine oil in the BMWs? I use the diesel grade oils in my 84 Nighthawk S with good results...started w/ conventional but switched to synthetic this year. Brands include Mobil Delvac or Shell. Diesel oils don't have the automotive additives that prevent wet clutches in cycles from acting up. Thanks.

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Old 09-13-2009, 08:32 AM   #22
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What's available in a 15W-40?

I have 10W-40 Castrol syn. blend in my bike now, but several folks have suggested that for the F800GS engine that 15W-40 is a better choice than 10W-40 ... for the kind of riding I do, I think I agree.

The manual says that 15W-40 is permitted to temperatures as low as -10C, so I think I'm "safe" going to 15W-40, but I have not been able to find a 15W-40 synthetic or synthetic blend motorcycle-specific oil .... is there one?
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Old 09-13-2009, 04:40 PM   #23
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Just stay away from oils with automotive additives which will not work well with your wet clutch, causing slippage. This is where motorcycle specific oils make a difference. I'd use any one of these heavy duty mineral oils (often referred to as diesel oils):
  1. Castrol RX Super 15w40
  2. Chevron Delo 400 15w40
  3. Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40
  4. Pennzoil Long-Life 15w40
  5. Quaker State 4X4 Synthetic Blend 15w40
  6. Shell Rotella-T 15w40 (my personal favorite)
  7. SuperTech 2000 (WalMart) 15w40
  8. Valvoline All Fleet 15w40
  9. Castrol Syntec Blend Truck and 4X4 15w40
In general, to protect your motor use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer's guidelines. For racing, a thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection.

Quote:
I have not been able to find a 15W-40 synthetic or synthetic blend motorcycle-specific oil .... is there one?
Amsoil produces a 15W-40 synthetic oil
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Old 09-13-2009, 04:48 PM   #24
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Owner's manual specifies 10W-40 mineral oils of API classification SF through SH:


2.9 l, with filter change
2.7 l, without filter change

0.3 l, additional, if swing-arm shaft cover is removed
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Old 09-13-2009, 07:17 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelWisman
Royal purple also makes a motorcycle specific 15w/40, and they don't spam you or have a website and videos that are like 70s infomercials
You say that like it's a bad thing...
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Old 09-14-2009, 12:55 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelWisman
So what would you folks think if I said "every new BMW comes from the factory .25 to .75 liters over the full mark"?
My F800 and my wifes F650 came from the dealer underfilled. I did the oil change 3 times now and if you follow the manual it's wrong. It takes more that what it states to get to the full mark. When I put in 2.9 litres with filter change and run it, it doesn't even show on the dipstick. Had to put close to 3.5 liters in. Every time!!
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:52 AM   #27
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Thanks Alex, I may go the the Shell Rotella also ...

Here's the page from the shop manual on recommended oil weights:
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Old 09-14-2009, 10:17 AM   #28
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I understand that you are asking for oil for your F800gs. You might want to try Rotella 5w-40 from walmrat. I've been running it for some time, and had no issues whatsoever. Don't get "high efficiency" oils because they have substances that will cause your clutch to slip. Rotella is like 20 bucks for a galon, so it would be worth a try. Good luck.
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Old 09-14-2009, 03:22 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96KLR650
My F800 and my wifes F650 came from the dealer underfilled. I did the oil change 3 times now and if you follow the manual it's wrong. It takes more that what it states to get to the full mark. When I put in 2.9 litres with filter change and run it, it doesn't even show on the dipstick. Had to put close to 3.5 liters in. Every time!!
Please tell me you're NOT checking the oil level while the bike is actually still running?!?
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Old 09-14-2009, 05:47 PM   #30
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You have to get the engine hot for a true reading. Not just a quick start-up and shut it off.
I think you are supposed to let it idle until the fan comes on, shut it off, let it sit for a few minutes then check the level.
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