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Old 02-08-2010, 10:10 PM   #556
RedHawk47
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bolt threads

johngil - do you still have the original bolt? Measuring your photos of it show that the threads are only 37 or 38 mm, which means that it would have jammed on the "nut" instead of clamping the spacers. Looking at this photo from your first post indicates that the unthreaded portion was definitely too long.

It you still have that original bolt would you please measure the thread length and the unthreaded length and post the info here?
Thanks


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Old 02-08-2010, 10:13 PM   #557
The Griz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHawk47
johngil - do you still have the original bolt? Measuring your photos of it show that the threads are only 37 or 38 mm, which means that it would have jammed on the "nut" instead of clamping the spacers. Looking at this photo from your first post indicates that the unthreaded portion was definitely too long.

It you still have that original bolt would you please measure the thread length and the unthreaded length and post the info here?
Thanks


I don't think the threads start immediately in the long threaded bushing/nut. They start in a little ways. About where the end of the left wing of the red arrow in this pic is.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:28 PM   #558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Griz
I don't think the threads start immediately in the long threaded bushing/nut. They start in a little ways. About where the end of the left wing of the red arrow in this pic is.
That's another factor we need to know.
So a better measurement would be as follows: thread the bushing/nut onto the bolt til the threads stop in the nut, finger tight. Measure from the nut to the underside of the bolt head. This measurement must be less than the stack of the shock bushing (42mm) + spacer (30mm) + right frame tab (8mm ?). I would want this measurement to be at least 2mm smaller.

What is the thickness of the right frame tab? I can't get to my bike right now; it's in an unheated space.
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Old 02-09-2010, 12:07 AM   #559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHawk47
That's another factor we need to know.
So a better measurement would be as follows: thread the bushing/nut onto the bolt til the threads stop in the nut, finger tight. Measure from the nut to the underside of the bolt head. This measurement must be less than the stack of the shock bushing (42mm) + spacer (30mm) + right frame tab (8mm ?). I would want this measurement to be at least 2mm smaller.

What is the thickness of the right frame tab? I can't get to my bike right now; it's in an unheated space.
Hi all, I am currently installing an Elka rear shock and have taken a few photos with measurement etc. When I sort and upload the pics will repost.

The right frame tab is 5mm. Bolt finger tight to the tab is 63mm

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Old 02-09-2010, 03:04 AM   #560
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Below are the measurement pics I took while installing the Elka shock.

Thread length of upper shock bolt.





Tab to tab measurement.





Shock bolt tightened until thread runs out.





Elka bush length.




Stock spacer length





Top of shock installed with about 2mm of the nut bush showing through main tab.





So by my calculations I have tab to tab of 72mm,
End of bolt threads to tab of 63.5mm
Elka shock bush of 40mm,
Stock spacer of 30mm,

40mm + 30mm + 2mm required from mounting nut for tab to tab 72mm

Overhead of 72mm - 63.5mm - 2mm = 6.5mm for tensioning to 100Nm.

I don't know if this is right, but it makes sense to me.
Now I don't know how many mm of thread 100Nm of torque would use.

Forgive me if my terminology is not right and make corrections if I am wrong.




And now for something completely different. Undoing the lower shock mount bolt, I noticed threads inside the stock mount. The lower shock bolt is shorter but maintains the same thread length as the upper shock bolt.







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Old 02-09-2010, 06:00 AM   #561
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That looks familiar,

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Old 02-09-2010, 06:01 AM   #562
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My dealer took possession of my bent bolts. Sorry.
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:34 AM   #563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OffAgain
Hi all, I am currently installing an Elka rear shock and have taken a few photos with measurement etc. When I sort and upload the pics will repost.

The right frame tab is 5mm. Bolt finger tight to the tab is 63mm

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Great pics and measurements.

Can I ask why your installing the rear Elka shock? Are you experinceing frequent (or infrequent) bottoming or are you just looking for a better performing rear shock?
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:54 AM   #564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Griz
Well I guess all I can do is hope for the best. It was turning all the way to 100Nm. It is the second time I threaded this particular bolt in. First time was simply to install the new bolt. Then again in order to install the RM brace this evening. I suppose it's possible that the bolt stretched due to being used twice and I bottomed the threads. Not really any way of telling though. Should I order another BMW upper shock bolt? And use a washer? Or do you think I'm alright with the bolt that's in there?
Hey Griz, I think it was you who mentioned that the bolts are spec'd for one time use. I can only assume that is becuase once the bolt is tensioned it can't be retensioned adiquatly - probably can't stretch it twice?

My .02

Your not riding it now, order a new upper bolt and use a washer. Nix the thread locker cause I beleive its meant to be a dry application. Your bike of coarse so do what you think is best. But since you asked...
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:36 AM   #565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharia_11
Hey Griz, I think it was you who mentioned that the bolts are spec'd for one time use. I can only assume that is becuase once the bolt is tensioned it can't be retensioned adiquatly - probably can't stretch it twice?

My .02

Your not riding it now, order a new upper bolt and use a washer. Nix the thread locker cause I beleive its meant to be a dry application. Your bike of coarse so do what you think is best. But since you asked...
Thanks Zacharia. That's what I'll do being it's been blizzarding here this week! Why not right? I mean, the bolt is $6 and the washer is $.20.
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Old 02-09-2010, 12:17 PM   #566
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BTW, OffAgain, I drool over that Elka shock!
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Old 02-09-2010, 12:49 PM   #567
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I'll be ordering up a new bolt and getting a washer before I go off-road again next.

I figure that with a new bolt and washer lubed properly, the RM brace and proper torque I'll be good to go. If not, nothing will fix this issue.
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:08 PM   #568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS
I'll be ordering up a new bolt and getting a washer before I go off-road again next.

I figure that with a new bolt and washer lubed properly, the RM brace and proper torque I'll be good to go. If not, nothing will fix this issue.
Agreed, I'm on that same path.
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:10 PM   #569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Griz
Agreed, I'm on that same path.
I actually ordered up both the upper and lower bolts. Not sure why but it seemed the thing to do. That lower bolt is expensive!!
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Old 02-09-2010, 02:39 PM   #570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS
I actually ordered up both the upper and lower bolts. Not sure why but it seemed the thing to do. That lower bolt is expensive!!
Yeah, that lower bolt is $20!! Even so, you're doing the right thing. It's even more important to replace the bottom bolt once removed. This is due to the microencapsulated thread locker on the bolt, and the fact that if the bottom bolt came out while riding it would result in serious injury/death. With the shock not suspending it any longer, the rear wheel would whip up into the wheel well and insti-stop the bike. Whereas if the top bolt loosens, even though it will likely bend as we found here, at least there's something to hold it in in the meatime so you don't die!!
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