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Old 08-09-2009, 05:37 AM   #61
Newfoundlander
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Location: Corner Brook Newfoundland
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On your ride it may be worth your while to come into Corner Brook and the Bay of Islands great scenery. Route 450 on the South Shore is a nice ride also. There is a KTM dealership in Stephenville if you need anything specific and several other dealerships in Corner Brook. I am just outside Corner Brook if you need anything.
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Old 08-09-2009, 07:23 AM   #62
french horn
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As Lopoetve said , that steak looked perfect.

Amazing photography, blew me away ... the setting sun ... breathtaking. Can't wait for more report .......... Enjoy the remainder, most of all, be safe.
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Old 08-09-2009, 09:11 AM   #63
GSgal
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Wow.

I'm not a pro photographer, but I know enough to appreciate pro photography, and yours is refreshingly beautiful. Thanks for the extra effort to haul the gear, protect it from the elements, and take the photos (plus uploading and posting) so the rest of us can enjoy. And thanks to the rest of your riding partners for being patient while you do so! This report will be a nice memento for you, and is a treat for us. Ride on!
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Old 08-09-2009, 09:34 AM   #64
MaineThumpah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSgal
Wow.

I'm not a pro photographer, but I know enough to appreciate pro photography, and yours is refreshingly beautiful. Thanks for the extra effort to haul the gear, protect it from the elements, and take the photos (plus uploading and posting) so the rest of us can enjoy. And thanks to the rest of your riding partners for being patient while you do so! This report will be a nice memento for you, and is a treat for us. Ride on!
+1

Your RR is amazing.
I live in central Maine, & I dream about taking a trip similar to this one day.
There is nothing like an RR with photography like this. I thank you for taking the time to share.

I fear that one day, when I finally take a trip like this, I will be too into the trip to share. John Mayer's "3X5" comes into mind... click the link to see the lyrics.

Truly breathtaking. Thank You All.
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Old 08-09-2009, 02:06 PM   #65
kojack
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Maine thumpa....come on up. and thats an awsome song too. Im willing to bet these guys will be back to see the sights again, this time with yours truly as a guide!
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Old 08-09-2009, 04:02 PM   #66
Velocipede
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Location: Kingston Ontario Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSgal
Wow.

I'm not a pro photographer, but I know enough to appreciate pro photography, and yours is refreshingly beautiful. Thanks for the extra effort to haul the gear, protect it from the elements, and take the photos (plus uploading and posting) so the rest of us can enjoy. And thanks to the rest of your riding partners for being patient while you do so! This report will be a nice memento for you, and is a treat for us. Ride on!
Well said GSgal.This is a really great RR!

John
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Old 08-10-2009, 04:09 AM   #67
prometheus rising
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Fantastic RR, pictures are Stunning, writing pretty darn good too. Thanks for taking us along. Looking forward to more


PS team incomplete website is very cool
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:44 AM   #68
sakurama OP
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Days eight and nine

So Gino dropped the bike at a stand still and I put mine in a ditch on the way to our camp. You gotta pay to play...

Untitled from Gregor Halenda on Vimeo.



So as we mentioned it rained Saturday all day and hard. It was the karmic payback for the night before I suppose. To give you an idea of what we spent the day riding through here's a clip.

Untitled from Gregor Halenda on Vimeo.



Along the way we stopped to ride a lobster though - you can't pass things like this up.



At lunch we met Steve who gave us a gift of gin and vodka made from iceberg ice but we decided to save it until we were farther north.



After about two hours of rain we stopped to warm up in a cafe owned by four sisters. They were very gracious and didn't mind that we left a huge puddle on the floor from our soaked gear. Toast and soup are big here and it seems everywhere has fresh homemade bread.



When we got into Deer Falls it was still raining and we were so happy to see the motel. When we got inside she told us they were full and that everyone was full. She gave us a list and we started calling down the numbers and after about 10 places we found a B+B who had two reserved rooms but they hadn't heard from the guests and they didn't leave a card so we did immediately. Donna and Larry were wonderful hosts and since everything was closed for the night they made us dinner. We've been doing ride reports each day on video and this one, while a little long at 6 minutes, might be amusing. We were a little punch drunk.

Untitled from Gregor Halenda on Vimeo.



My bike seems to be molting - every 500 or so miles I find a missing or loose bolt. These are roads that require locktite.



In the morning it was cool and clearing so we set off on the 180 miles to the ferry that would take us to Labrador. Of the things we wanted to see on this trip: bear, moose and an iceberg we'd only gotten one. Everyone kept telling us how many moose there were but we still hadn't seen them. Finally, after Gros Morne park while heading up the west coast, we saw our first moose. Check!



There were actually two calves but one was in the woods. The mother was completely unbothered by our presence and just kept grazing.

A few hours after seeing the moose we rolled into the the ferry terminal in Saint Barbe and as we were waiting we saw two lone riders get off the ferry. We've seen less and less bikes as we go north and these were the only ones we'd seen in hours and since they'd come from the ferry we decided to pay them a visit. As I walked up I realized that I knew one of them - Voni Glaves (and her husband Paul) and I have crossed paths several times before which isn't surprising as she's just passed her 900,000th mile on BMW's. My father and I have also run into her while riding in Arizona or Utah. Motorcycles are a small world.



Once off the ferry we were surprised to find we were in Quebec and that Labrador was actually a few miles up the road. This is our gunslinger walking to the camera pose.



The road off the ferry is paved and the scenery is just stunning. The farther north we go the more the gas stations change. Premium was the first casualty and then the pumps went from digital to analog to out of order to out of gas. We're now very officially "in the middle of nowhere"



It's hard to explain what Labrador is like. It's big first and foremost and the houses all seem to be built with a sense of temporariness like no one plans on really staying. There's no brick for instance. The landscape is like a vast plain of above timberline tundra with short bushes and stunted scrub yet it's all decidedly lush. The other thing we've noticed is that the bridges all have wooden decks which is sort of strange. Here's the view from one:



We stayed for a bit here to just soak in the view. Lauren is not afraid of heights.



After about 50 miles the road went from pavement to dirt and we were finally on the road we'd heard so much about. Gino and I have ridden sand and we've ridden gravel but putting the two together makes for an altogether new experience. Not really a good one either.

We started sort of slow and picked up speed to 45 or so but the bikes, mine especially with the smaller wheels, just wallowed in the gravel. The road lacks the firm wheel ruts of a typical dirt road and goes from soft to very soft and the gravel ridges cross back and forth. When your tire goes into it the bike just starts to tuck and at one point Judiaann and I had a huge tank slapper that I barely got under control before we went off the road. I was holding the bars so tight and I was pretty nervous but after a few miles I relaxed and found that if we stood I had far more control to correct the bike when it started to tuck. Relaxing my grip and letting the bars wag also helped. I've always tried to explain riding on soft terrain as like riding a horse: you can't tell the horse where to put it's hooves but you can gently guide it where you want and let it find it's own way - the big bikes are just the same.

Soon we settled into a pace of 60mph which was the magic speed - fast enough that your speed carried you through the soft stuff and slow enough that you weren't skimming too bad. After about 45 minutes I looked down and noticed I had a steering damper - ah, right! I turned it on full and magically the bike settled down instantly and we could sit again without drama. Thank god.



Finally we rolled into Mary's Harbour around 6:30pm. We'd seen an iceberg in the harbour on our way in so we wanted to ditch our bags and ride out for a better view. At the motel they told us we had come on the day of the blessing of the boats so we headed down to the dock to see the festivities.



As we took off our helmets a fellow came up to us and asked where we'd come from and where we were going and we told him how we'd come down to the harbour to try to take a photo of the iceberg. He said his family had one of the fishing boats and he'd take us out for a better look.

Keith is a lifelong fisherman and actually designs and builds the nets including this one.



Not only did we get on the boat but we were invited up to the top deck where Keith told us stories of fishing and living in the harbour. In the winter the whole harbour freezes solid and they use snow machines to reach the other town.



And finally we ticked off number three on our list - to see an iceberg! Keith explained that the ice bergs are ten times larger under the water than what you see and that when growing up that was the only source of ice for the whole village. People would take giant chunks of the ice home in boats and it would keep food cold all summer. Crazy.





Here we are leaving the harbour on top of the fishing boat.



We were worried if we went out on the boat that we wouldn't make it back to the motel for dinner which ended at 8pm. Keith said not to worry; his sister owned the motel and his mom was the cook - what would we like and it would be waiting for us when we got back. I think we've been more than a little lucky on this trip but we've also opened ourselves up to meeting people and experiencing where we are and we've found people to be extremely open, generous and friendly.

After a fantastic dinner of salmon, cod, shrimp, scallops and crab we met Keith and his wife Cheryl in the bar for drinks. They are of inuit decent and their families have lived here for generations.



The special treat of the evening was that Keith went home and brought us a bag of iceberg ice for us to try.



We broke out Steve's iceberg vodka and gin and took turns drinking the melting iceberg. Icebergs are far denser than normal ice and take much longer to melt. It was strange to think that when the water in that ice first froze was likely B.C. and long before the first europeans or even vikings had ever set foot in north america. As Lauren pointed out, "This is water before pollution..."

So we're about to start day 10 - the ride to Cartwright and our last ferry of the trip. We have 150 miles of that dirt and gravel road but we're giving ourselves time. Keith told us not to get on the road before 11 or we'd meet the traffic coming off the ferry from Cartwright and that's advice only a local could give. Supposedly the road gets better.

sakurama screwed with this post 11-07-2012 at 10:23 AM
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:33 AM   #69
kojack
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Kelly and I were wondering where you guys were....We are sooooo happy you got to see an iceberg, moose and try the iceberg ice/vodka/gin. and of course the screech. keep the bottles and fill the with water for display when you get back to the big apple!....

Be careful on the rest of your trip that road can be dangerous! and we will definantly be in contact when you return!

enjoy folks!
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:38 AM   #70
Miss_Yamaha
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Thumb tough ladies you got there!

Hi boys!!

love all the pics, looks like you had a bit of a rough start but seem to be working it out

those ladies are pretty amazing for hanging in there on the back, major props! looking forward to seeing more pics along the way, have a great time and ride safe!

xoxo

L
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:43 AM   #71
bostonsr
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I was a little surprised when lauren told me how little gino planned to take along...and that this was a new experience for her.

looks like you guys are still smiling. keep it up!

when's the welcome-back party?

abe
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:47 AM   #72
kojack
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Hi Abe,

Im the guy holding the goodies in the post above. I met your 4 friends and they are quite wonderful to talk to. My wife and I are coming to NYC as soon as we can to see the sights....

steve
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:59 AM   #73
markbvt
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Location: Georgia, Vermont (that's one town, not two states)
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This RR is fantastic. Thanks for the incredible photography -- inspires me to do a better job documenting my future trips!

--mark
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Old 08-10-2009, 09:40 AM   #74
el' hefe
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Enjoying this RR! Thanks for posting as you travel along on your adventure!
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:50 AM   #75
Z0RR0
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Location: Montreal, CA
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Very nice! As a photography aficionado I can appreciate the effort put into those. Heck, I love photography and I rarely can be bothered to stop to take a single picture when out riding!

Still trying to figure out how you got such gorgeous wimmins to tag along in the middle of nowhere. On crappy constantly broken bikes too! Geniuses.
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