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Old 08-10-2009, 10:51 AM   #76
Jabba
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This isn't a thread, it's a dream!~ Beautiful scenery, awesome machinery and gorgeous women... What more is there left to dream?!? Great job guys- enjoy the adventure!!!
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:58 AM   #77
bostonsr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kojack
Hi Abe,

Im the guy holding the goodies in the post above. I met your 4 friends and they are quite wonderful to talk to. My wife and I are coming to NYC as soon as we can to see the sights....

steve
cool, PM me the relevant dates, we can get together for dinner/lunch/coffee at gino's restaurant.

try to include a tuesday night so you can meet a bunch of the ADV NYCFFs

abe
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Old 08-10-2009, 11:31 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSgal
Wow.

I'm not a pro photographer, but I know enough to appreciate pro photography, and yours is refreshingly beautiful. Thanks for the extra effort to haul the gear, protect it from the elements, and take the photos (plus uploading and posting) so the rest of us can enjoy. And thanks to the rest of your riding partners for being patient while you do so! This report will be a nice memento for you, and is a treat for us. Ride on!
+1 again... great report and stunning photos!
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Old 08-10-2009, 01:02 PM   #79
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I'm Jealous...

Quote:
Originally Posted by sakurama
So Gino dropped the bike at a stand still and I put mine in a ditch on the way to our camp. You gotta pay to play...





Untitled from Gregor Halenda on Vimeo.


So as we mentioned it rained Saturday all day and hard. It was the karmic payback for the night before I suppose. To give you an idea of what we spent the day riding through here's a clip.





Untitled from Gregor Halenda on Vimeo.


Along the way we stopped to ride a lobster though - you can't pass things like this up.



At lunch we met Steve who gave us a gift of gin and vodka made from iceberg ice but we decided to save it until we were farther north.



After about two hours of rain we stopped to warm up in a cafe owned by four sisters. They were very gracious and didn't mind that we left a huge puddle on the floor from our soaked gear. Toast and soup are big here and it seems everywhere has fresh homemade bread.



When we got into Deer Falls it was still raining and we were so happy to see the motel. When we got inside she told us they were full and that everyone was full. She gave us a list and we started calling down the numbers and after about 10 places we found a B+B who had two reserved rooms but they hadn't heard from the guests and they didn't leave a card so we did immediately. Donna and Larry were wonderful hosts and since everything was closed for the night they made us dinner. We've been doing ride reports each day on video and this one, while a little long at 6 minutes, might be amusing. We were a little punch drunk.





Untitled from Gregor Halenda on Vimeo.


My bike seems to be molting - every 500 or so miles I find a missing or loose bolt. These are roads that require locktite.



In the morning it was cool and clearing so we set off on the 180 miles to the ferry that would take us to Labrador. Of the things we wanted to see on this trip: bear, moose and an iceberg we'd only gotten one. Everyone kept telling us how many moose there were but we still hadn't seen them. Finally, after Gros Morne park while heading up the west coast, we saw our first moose. Check!



There were actually two calves but one was in the woods. The mother was completely unbothered by our presence and just kept grazing.

A few hours after seeing the moose we rolled into the the ferry terminal in Saint Barbe and as we were waiting we saw two lone riders get off the ferry. We've seen less and less bikes as we go north and these were the only ones we'd seen in hours and since they'd come from the ferry we decided to pay them a visit. As I walked up I realized that I knew one of them - Voni Glaves and I have crossed paths several times before which isn't surprising as she's just passed her 900,000th mile on BMW's. My father and I have also run into her while riding in Arizona or Utah. Motorcycles are a small world.



Once off the ferry we were surprised to find we were in Quebec and that Labrador was actually a few miles up the road. This is our gunslinger walking to the camera pose.



The road off the ferry is paved and the scenery is just stunning. The farther north we go the more the gas stations change. Premium was the first casualty and then the pumps went from digital to analog to out of order to out of gas. We're now very officially "in the middle of nowhere"



It's hard to explain what Labrador is like. It's big first and foremost and the houses all seem to be built with a sense of temporariness like no one plans on really staying. There's no brick for instance. The landscape is like a vast plain of above timberline tundra with short bushes and stunted scrub yet it's all decidedly lush. The other thing we've noticed is that the bridges all have wooden decks which is sort of strange. Here's the view from one:



We stayed for a bit here to just soak in the view. Lauren is not afraid of heights.



After about 50 miles the road went from pavement to dirt and we were finally on the road we'd heard so much about. Gino and I have ridden sand and we've ridden gravel but putting the two together makes for an altogether new experience. Not really a good one either.

We started sort of slow and picked up speed to 45 or so but the bikes, mine especially with the smaller wheels, just wallowed in the gravel. The road lacks the firm wheel ruts of a typical dirt road and goes from soft to very soft and the gravel ridges cross back and forth. When your tire goes into it the bike just starts to tuck and at one point Judiaann and I had a huge tank slapper that I barely got under control before we went off the road. I was holding the bars so tight and I was pretty nervous but after a few miles I relaxed and found that if we stood I had far more control to correct the bike when it started to tuck. Relaxing my grip and letting the bars wag also helped. I've always tried to explain riding on soft terrain as like riding a horse: you can't tell the horse where to put it's hooves but you can gently guide it where you want and let it find it's own way - the big bikes are just the same.

Soon we settled into a pace of 60mph which was the magic speed - fast enough that your speed carried you through the soft stuff and slow enough that you weren't skimming too bad. After about 45 minutes I looked down and noticed I had a steering damper - ah, right! I turned it on full and magically the bike settled down instantly and we could sit again without drama. Thank god.



Finally we rolled into Mary's Harbour around 6:30pm. We'd seen an iceberg in the harbour on our way in so we wanted to ditch our bags and ride out for a better view. At the motel they told us we had come on the day of the blessing of the boats so we headed down to the dock to see the festivities.



As we took off our helmets a fellow came up to us and asked where we'd come from and where we were going and we told him how we'd come down to the harbour to try to take a photo of the iceberg. He said his family had one of the fishing boats and he'd take us out for a better look.

Keith is a lifelong fisherman and actually designs and builds the nets including this one.



Not only did we get on the boat but we were invited up to the top deck where Keith told us stories of fishing and living in the harbour. In the winter the whole harbour freezes solid and they use snow machines to reach the other town.



And finally we ticked off number three on our list - to see an iceberg! Keith explained that the ice bergs are ten times larger under the water than what you see and that when growing up that was the only source of ice for the whole village. People would take giant chunks of the ice home in boats and it would keep food cold all summer. Crazy.





Here we are leaving the harbour on top of the fishing boat.



We were worried if we went out on the boat that we wouldn't make it back to the motel for dinner which ended at 8pm. Keith said not to worry; his sister owned the motel and his mom was the cook - what would we like and it would be waiting for us when we got back. I think we've been more than a little lucky on this trip but we've also opened ourselves up to meeting people and experiencing where we are and we've found people to be extremely open, generous and friendly.

After a fantastic dinner of salmon, cod, shrimp, scallops and crab we met Keith and his wife Cheryl in the bar for drinks. They are of inuit decent and their families have lived here for generations.



The special treat of the evening was that Keith went home and brought us a bag of iceberg ice for us to try.



We broke out Steve's iceberg vodka and gin and took turns drinking the melting iceberg. Icebergs are far denser than normal ice and take much longer to melt. It was strange to think that when the water in that ice first froze was likely B.C. and long before the first europeans or even vikings had ever set foot in north america. As Lauren pointed out, "This is water before pollution..."

So we're about to start day 10 - the ride to Cartwright and our last ferry of the trip. We have 150 miles of that dirt and gravel road but we're giving ourselves time. Keith told us not to get on the road before 11 or we'd meet the traffic coming off the ferry from Cartwright and that's advice only a local could give. Supposedly the road gets better.
Ayy Sfachime',
Gino will know what that means Gregor. I'm totally blown away by your adventure and the ride report on the fly. A dream trip I can only hope to take one day. Keep that precious cargo safe and sound Gregor. Gino, I'll go to the resturant and check things out; the workers, the food, the customers, the food, the wine list, the food, the moon (Ahh, A Bella Luna). And did I mention the food? You guys all look great and like your having a blast. I think Gino should do a stage act at Tre', he'll knock'em dead. You should all seek out a plate of Pasta Con Fagioli while your up there, God knows I can't get one at the resturant. I'm following you guys all of the way. Better hurry back, my Italian is getting pretty crappy again. I am loosing heritage time with my pisano.
John
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Old 08-10-2009, 01:07 PM   #80
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Great report, I'm jealous Gino!

If you notice no matter what problems they run into, the Rev It gear still looks like new.

Maybe you guys could do your ride report at this years PB300
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Old 08-10-2009, 03:42 PM   #81
theteacher95
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Great RR! Especially, the pic's. It's nice to watch a good trip unfold as it happens. If you wait till the end to tell the story you have too much perspective. All the sense of anticipation seems contrived. Plus, being a fellow east coaster, this is high up on my list of dream rides that might actually happen soon. Good motivation for me.

Stay safe and all that good stuff.
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Old 08-10-2009, 03:55 PM   #82
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Life well lived is always good to see.



Have fun!

R-
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:22 PM   #83
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wonderful!
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:41 PM   #84
coop74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jabba
This isn't a thread, it's a dream!~ Beautiful scenery, awesome machinery and gorgeous women... What more is there left to dream?!? Great job guys- enjoy the adventure!!!
If it were really a dream the bike would be adding bolts not shedding them. So far however I would take it and bring along a big bag of bolts and keep going...

Thanks guys for the RR.

Coop
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:53 PM   #85
sakurama OP
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Day 10 - Mary's Harbour to Cartwright

This report is done from sea. Our ferry has wifi!

It dawned a nice day today and it took a while to pack not because we didn't have our system down (we do now - to a tee) but because loading our bikes this morning brought a group of locals out to chat with us about our trip. I didn't give Mary's Harbour much thought when I planned the trip, I just wanted to split up our first big dirt road day, but it turned out to be another highlight and perhaps the friendliest town we've encountered all trip.

In the morning Keith came back by and took us to his uncles store where they opened up the gas pump for us. We filled up and hit the road.

Yesterday we had gravel and sand mixed in a soupy cocktail but today we added washboard which would studder the bike right into the gravel. We adjusted. Then we got 40mph cross winds which, as you might imagine, completely sucked. All of that mixed was nerve wracking and each gust would push the bike into the gravel where it would then plow with the bars going slack in your hands and you'd be at the winds mercy as you plowed, quite literally, toward the edge. Stressful.

Something we've learned about the people of Labrador is that, "the road is always better just up the road..." We heard that every time we took off our helmets.

We rolled into Port Hope Simpson just 25 miles later and something happened that has never happened in my entire motorcycling life and I even hesitate to post it here for fear of the traffic it might generate. A beautiful young girl came out of the store and walked up to our bikes smiling and said, "Hi there! Would you like me to fill up your bikes for you?"

I swear to god.

And because I know you wouldn't believe me I took pictures of Cindy filling up the big 950 - and she didn't spill a drop!



She's studying molecular biology or something equally over my head and helping out in the family store for the summer. I suspect that Labrador may want to brace for a surge in Adventure Rider traffic now.

I bit farther down the road Gino and I were riding side by side so as to not eat each others dust and I noticed his slow leaking front tire was down to around 24lbs or so (stupid that I can SEE that isn't it?) and I realized it was doing a really good job on the gravel and a light went off. My stupid tires were set to 36 and 40 in the back - what was I thinking? We pulled over and set about lowering the pressure to 24 front and 28 rear.

But not before we were swarmed by black flies. Holy cow!



I had seen these mosquito net hats at EMS and bought them more as a joke thinking we'd never actually use them. How wrong I was - how very, very wrong. Gino wondered if it was possible to be killed by black flies, "But no! Seriously, they could suck all your blood and you'd die!"

After lowering the pressure (something I should have thought to do the first day) the bike handled absolutely perfect. The road improved and Gino and I got into a serious groove and finally started using sixth gear. We felt completely comfortable on the road for the first time.

Untitled from Gregor Halenda on Vimeo.



We made good time and as we approached Cartwright it started to rain which actually was nice as it cut the dust down. It would have been nicer had it rained lightly and stopped but we only had to deal with it for about 15 - 20 minutes. The bikes are dirty in a way I've never really seen - there's a slurry of dust and mud that has permeated everything.





At the ferry it was pouring rain and we decided to be the New Yorkers we are and rode around the line and right into the ferry. I'd have gladly waited in line if I was warm and dry in a car but that wasn't the case and the crew was very understanding. Once on board we sat for about an hour as the trucks loaded and the sun began to break in the west. I headed up to the top deck and shot this 180 panorama of the bay at Cartwright.



We didn't get bunks for this ferry so we were making ourselves home in the reclining chairs when my name was called to the pursers office. We just got the very last room on the ship! I'll post that once we actually move in but right now we have to claim our prize.

sakurama screwed with this post 11-07-2012 at 10:29 AM
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:32 PM   #86
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Okay, last update before we head to the bar and turn in for the night. We got a room! This is huge as it means we'll be able to sleep tonight and arrive fresh, rested and showered for our first true day of the Trans Lab. Being New Yorkers it's not often that you're impressed with how small a room is but this is pretty compact, err, cozy! Yeah, that's what we're talking about. Cozy.



Good night and we'll check in the next time we find some wireless.

Oh, and one last parting video for the night. I'll preface this by saying that Gino is Italian and grew up wheelying a vespa and this road is closed and no animals were harmed during the making of this clip. Do not try this at home unless you have a really, really big home.

Untitled from Gregor Halenda on Vimeo.



Did I mention we have the worlds coolest girlfriends?

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Old 08-10-2009, 06:35 PM   #87
C-Stain
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Incredible...

Subscribed. This thread is absolutely awesome..can't wait to see more...
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:59 PM   #88
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Inspiring! Many thanks for sharing your adventures with us.

Your grand route has bypassed the state of Vermont! What could I say that would convince you all of a visit?

Ciao Ciao!
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Old 08-10-2009, 07:12 PM   #89
fastredbike
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fantastic RR

you all fit together to make a great team, and are clearly having a great time no matter what comes at you.
Did I get that right that you are shooting all your video with your DSLRs? If so, a side thread on housings and mounts for gear that big would be good.
I'm planning to start getting the video side of things down and I'm interested in what's working - whatever your rig is, it's working.
Ride safe!
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Old 08-10-2009, 07:49 PM   #90
whatsgnu
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This just a fantastic RR ! The pictures are great but more amazing.... all 4 of you are always smiling and seem to be having such a great time. God speed to you all and keep up the great posts !
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