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Old 11-05-2012, 05:08 PM   #91
woody's wheel works
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mud guard solution available...

here's how ya can do it :

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=109

please give your feedback!!
holler n thanks

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Old 11-28-2012, 09:59 PM   #92
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kool, Looking forward to getting my wheel and checking this out.
Cheers,


Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works View Post
here's how ya can do it :

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=109

please give your feedback!!
holler n thanks

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Old 11-28-2012, 11:55 PM   #93
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two half's for the front fender.

Seems to me you (or a plastic/fab specialist) could make a new fender in two half's. a front section and a rear section. These could over lap at the mount point making the two section stronger. You have a good start there!

Stephen

Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works View Post
here's how ya can do it :

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=109

please give your feedback!!
holler n thanks

woody
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:46 PM   #94
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here's prototype I for your perusal version I will be posted shortly here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by shdashley View Post
Seems to me you (or a plastic/fab specialist) could make a new fender in two half's. a front section and a rear section. These could over lap at the mount point making the two section stronger. You have a good start there!

Stephen
please note will post link to new pics here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=839266


we did it,,,modified the oem fender,,,relocated it 2"+ clearance

Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works
Hi GUYS,,,and yes,I AM working on it,,,ie: the front fender solution don't want to let too much of the cat out of the bag,,,we are finally getting some weather to test out my ideas,,sunny dry weather all the time isn't the ideal testing territory,,,tis the real mud n gumbo I want to check out

Will keep you all posted
Woody


OK,,,it all came together,,had my epiphany ,,followed my instincts,,,so Zach n i cut/whittled/ drilled and fabricated a simple solution to the oem unit from a crashed donor bike ,,,here's what it looks like:











caveat: What you see is the quick n dirty proto-type,,,the finished version will sport nice rounded corners n smooth cuts,,,we can even:

1,,install a mud flap on the rear half for much greater protection

2,,install a mud-flap in the front

3,,if we made a totally new fender,,the shape could be altered as well

4,,I started with the premise y'all had an oem front fender already,,,hence the cheapest way to renovate it into something usefull.

this solution consisted of slicing the rear half of fender in half,drilling/grinding some holes for the lower A-arm pivot,,the front brake line,,and some relief for the L/R lower brake lines...

we fabricated some special brackets to stiffen the front and rear halves of the fender and added a strip of aluminum to tie the split back together....

we may try another version that we cut in half L-R and then provide a joining bracket,,,there is NO MODIFICATION required on any other part of bike,,,that was one of my goals,,,,Sooo,the basic premise worked on the first git go....

Please chime in if you'd like a different shape....this will handle all the complaints of dirt/mist flying up through the fairing,,,m'thinks that dirt flying off and toward the front of the bike may still head back???,,,and it will NOT handle the colorado gumbo,,my trick de-gumbo set up will be next,,,in the meantime
this set-up works....

here's Part #


46 61 7 667 681 FRONT WHEEL MUDGUARD, LOWER PART - BLACK

$58.81







woody
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Old 12-21-2012, 04:57 PM   #95
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WOW

And I wantto go the other way
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:35 AM   #96
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Maybe the 21" wheel converted should keep a watch on this.





Lower Triple Clamp Up-grade.

15mm of extra clearance, oem fender should work well, beefier, geometry maintained,
trick looking and around half the dollars of the Wunderlich version.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=853064
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:38 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works View Post
ok all you guys,,,,,

i just re-read this entire thread,,,,

perhaps i can assuage your 21'' conversion worries and concerns,,,,so one at a time:

ABS....works just fine and ya can always turn it off in the dirt

steering geometry....
stock 17 rear and 21 front:,,,,,it raise front circa 3/4''/19mm which will increase trail slightly hence slow down steering a tiny bit,,which to me seems a plus in the dirt and not that big a deal in the pavement because i take the corners a tad slower on the slab anyways with this knobby set-up
i noticed a bunch of solutions being bandied about regarding raising rear end,,,well they do have an adjustable torque arm that would take care of that in a pinch,,but why???

FYI,,,personally,,,i have two solutions with caveats...
1,,,for all-around main emphasis on dirt/offroad rideability and tire selection i opted for a 2.5x18 rear rim running 140/80x18 knobbies,,WOW is all i can say for sheer dirt riding fun,,,this setup essentially keeps oem geometry intact,,,best bang for tires that get the job done and that includes availability for going round the world in strange places ,,read your ride reports from the guys that go to strange places 19/17 is not that readily available
....the downside for me is/was the seat height is now a circa 3/4-1'' taller and the larger rear wheel gives taller gearing[which in 95% of the riding was a non issue....in the Rockies on many of the boulder strewn roads on steep pitches like going over Mosquito Pass last year,, i longed to be able to touch the ground and have the lower gearing of the oem rear wheel,,,hence

2,,solution was reverting to oem rear wheel size,,,i opted to build a narrower 3.5x17 running oem 150/70x17tire sizes....gained some ground on my inseam as well as easier slow rideability,,,,Bonus was the more rounded tire profile gives better bite in the dirt with no detriments on the slab....i sealed mine for tubeless because i'm essentially a lazy FF

the mud issue...
IMHO,,,the wunderlich offering is certainly a viable option but at what expense...to me there has to be a genuine cost benefit ratio,,,it has to pass a technical/aesthetic litmus test...it certainly has the bling covered,,,raising the front fender circa 2'' will certainly allow certain kinds of mud to pass and i can assure you it won't cut the muster here in colorado's gumbo....this sh-- bogs down dang near anything it comes in contact with,,,the mud build-up on the sides and in between the fork legs locks up the wheels even on any dirt/MX bike sporting the tallest fenders

in a previous post i addressed my latest..kill 2 birds with one stone mud-scrapper front fender to deal with the mud/water/debris slinging/clogging issues

tubeless or tubetype???
there are so many posts on this subject...with pros and cons for each way,,,relax there are solutions and wheels available to satisfy your personal preference....

what ya need to know is that the only genuine tubeless solution is going with an oem 1.85x21 X-lace rim laced up to GS hub...the Tubliss system is for race off-road use only and the only available 21 rim available with a safety bead that could be sealed is a 2.15x21 SUN..too wide and too soft for what we need

wheel types available:
the Wunderlich 21 is built with all oem components is tubeless and weighs circa 3-4lbs more than the alternative Touratech or WWW Superlites....the WWW version can be made to any preference in hub or rim color schemes can also be Superlaced with extra beefy 8g ss spokes n nipples for the serious weight laden troopies,,,i think it is overkill but hey we can give ya what ya want

the other alternative is lacing up standard tube-type rims onto your stock hubs ....there are various techniques out there like drilling out nipples that fit your hub and threading skinny spokes through them to buchanans method of threading both ends of the spoke to have a nipple on both ends or my method of designing a special 4gx.175g butted Monzter spoke the size of the oem nipple

steering dampener
Folks PLEASE read this:'nice to have,,,albeit not necessary',,,, just using the 21'' will vastly improve the handling over the 19'' on either GS or GSAs..... the addition of a steering dampeners adds another dimension in minimizing the twitchy handling jitters whether using 17/18/19 or 21'' wheels up front,,,.

there's something to be said about enhancing the ride experience,,,, Scott,,,Hyperpro and Ralley- moto are available, the latter although twice as expensive offers far more versatility for different ride conditions ,,is easily tunable[controls are right in font of you on steering head] and is a 3'' bar riser at the same time

well there ya have it,,i tried to synthesize your concerns with your and my feedback

woody



Just thinking about this post from Woody.

The KTM 990 has a rake of 26.6 and the 800 GS has a rake of 26.0. My GS Adventure has a rake of 24.8 degrees. Steeper for pavement riding.

So installing the 21" wheel on my GSA, which lifts the front about 3/4" or so will lessen the rake and bring it somewhat closer to the other two bikes geometry which are set up for their stock 21" front wheels.

Then lifting the rear of my bike back up to match the lifted front with a 18" rear wheel might not be the best way for me to go. The better off pavement performance of the 18" vs keeping the stock 17" and improving the rake for dirt riding is the question. Any experts who would like to offer their knowledge on this would be great.

And no, I don't just want to buy a 450

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Old 01-12-2013, 12:09 PM   #98
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Stock forks?

Just read this thread for the first time and skipped to the end. I think the answer is yes, but I'll ask anyway, for clarification. Did you keep your stock forks? If so, do you ever have any bottoming out issues?
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Old 01-12-2013, 04:51 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timtrue View Post
Just read this thread for the first time and skipped to the end. I think the answer is yes, but I'll ask anyway, for clarification. Did you keep your stock forks? If so, do you ever have any bottoming out issues?

What was the "yes" answer in relation to? Yeh I see my error didn't read it proper, sorry!
"Yes" Woody's wheels are the ducks guts, for offroad use.

Do you mean clearance for the bigger wheel when suspension compressed?
If so, I've never heard of any issues. Woody has been turning out lots of these beaut wheels for ages. Or do ya mean jumping the bike hard enough, they all can bottom out.
Changing forks, would be a huge job and very costly.

Reply for Manxman.
I think that keeping the 17" on the back makes sense to increase the trail slightly. Helps with distance for the rider ta reach the ground and it doesn't gear it up ground speed wise.

FYI. I have the 18" and often wonder. I do notice the gearing change initially when first swapping. Tyres are cheaper for me in this size is a bonus. How tough do you want the rear wheel. The 18" would handle more abuse.

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Old 04-25-2013, 04:50 PM   #100
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I have a conveted 21" on my 1200GS now and find that it will get quite light, wobbly and unstable at + 140Km/h (90MPH). Has anyone else had this experience with this conversion and did anyone who fitted a damper find a change in using the damper?
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:46 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aka.Goliath View Post
I have a conveted 21" on my 1200GS now and find that it will get quite light, wobbly and unstable at + 140Km/h (90MPH). Has anyone else had this experience with this conversion and did anyone who fitted a damper find a change in using the damper?
OK I'll bite. I have a RM2 installed and wouldn't do without it but...

I don't think a damper would solve the problem for you. It will help it feel better, but doubt they'll fix an existing wobble or stability issues.


Unstable on the slab or dirt?

The narrower 21" rims allows for more sidewall flex. They definately wobble and wriggle around a bit, so it seems I end up standing up on the pegs allot more than my stock 19" wheeled brothers. At those higher speeds the roads must be pretty damn good and can only suggest that a 21" is really only an advantage over oem on tighter, slippery and rougher conditions.

What tyres are you running?

Pressures?
I found d908rr on the front very sensitive to tyre pressures. To be fair non-balanced wheels.
@ 35psi for a road section I found it twitchy, light, followed grooves on the road and generally felt bad under brakes. 30psi made it behave pretty good on the slab. For the dirt 26psi but then get a little headshake around $1.20 mark.

Balanced?
Or try refitting the tyre in different position.

With or without rimlocks?

Seen it's your first post - Welcome!
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:01 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aka.Goliath View Post
I have a conveted 21" on my 1200GS now and find that it will get quite light, wobbly and unstable at + 140Km/h (90MPH). Has anyone else had this experience with this conversion and did anyone who fitted a damper find a change in using the damper?
Have you set your front preload at minimum?
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:07 AM   #103
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what kind of converted wheel do you have on your 1200GS??

Quote:
Originally Posted by aka.Goliath View Post
I have a conveted 21" on my 1200GS now and find that it will get quite light, wobbly and unstable at + 140Km/h (90MPH). Has anyone else had this experience with this conversion and did anyone who fitted a damper find a change in using the damper?
before i can be of assistance,,i need to know

1,,brand /model/size of tire

2,,what wheel set up you are using ie oem tubeless X-laced wheel or one of my Superlaced-Superlites or ???

3,,have you checked the runout of your wheel ?? measured from the inside surfaces of the rim's bead area??? it should be less than +/- .5mm [.020'' ] in both directions [ie left-right/up-down]

4,,is the tire properly seated on rim and has the wheel been balanced???

5,,are you running a steering dampener???

FYI,,,i am afirm believer in steering dampeners,,,,especially on the bigger Adv bikes...i love my Dunlop 908 RRs set at 36-38 PSI front 32-34 rear...
i can loaf at 100mph straight as an arrow a bit noisy,,,and countersteering is the hot set up for smoking he twisties on n off road

holler,
woody
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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:33 AM   #104
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Woody,
What pressures do you recommend for Pirelli Scorpion A/T's on the slab?

90/90-21 front
140/80-18 rear

Love your 21/18 conversions so far. Headed up north in a couple of weeks to try them off road with knobbies.

Mike
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Old 05-08-2013, 11:40 AM   #105
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what tire pressures for pirelli scorpions 21/18 combo on the slab???

Quote:
Originally Posted by MMMOTORCYCLE View Post
Woody,
What pressures do you recommend for Pirelli Scorpion A/T's on the slab?

90/90-21 front
140/80-18 rear

Love your 21/18 conversions so far. Headed up north in a couple of weeks to try them off road with knobbies.

Mike
hi mike et al,,,

i run circa 34F/36rear for all-around on/off road riding...i just run within the parameters of what i sense works for me,,,i KNOW what low tire pressures cause when riding fast off-road with a very heavy bike [create customers for me more often than not]

if i'm only playing in the dirt i'll air em down to 26/28 which FYI Jimmy Lewis uses on his 1200GS sporting my 21/18 set-up....remember HE"s Jimmy Lewis though..and has got skill sets that allow him to ride fast and in such a manner that he doesn't destroy the bike/wheels..he's one of those souls that knows how to finesse his ride,,,modulate the throttle,,put the correct amount of body english /input to avoid rocks /lift the front end to ride over the terrain and obstacles....whilst most others bash into everything in their flight path....

Get the drift???? ,,,,,i know the 26/28 pound set up hooks up better in the dirt,,,and me being a generically lazy ol FF,,,i keep em at 34/36-38 ...OBTW,,,,i have only had a slight flat spot /lil ding from hitting a submerged rock doing 90 on big straightaway .

Have some fun and report back on your experience!

woody
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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W

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