ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > GSpot > GS Boxers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-05-2012, 09:49 AM   #1
rutard OP
Magnanimous Madcap
 
rutard's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: The Ether East of the Hudson
Oddometer: 326
Hot Wet Jugs

I've got a '95 R1100 GS w. 97K on the clock. A couple months ago I repainted the head covers, and switched to Mobil 1. When replacing the covers, I noticed that one of the valve-cover-stud-holes (term?) was close to stripped. I decided against Heli-Coiling / Case-Saving as it was holding well enough.

Now I'm getting a leak between the block and the right jug (so it appears, baby powder test forthcoming). The valve cover seal appears to be dry. My gut says it's one of 3 causes:

1. Switching from Dino to Synth
2. Bad Block-Jug sealant
3. Loose Block-Jug bolts

How easy is it to tighten the bolts holding the jugs to the case? I have access to a BMW OEM Manual. Anyone know what these bolts are called?

My current plan is to tighten the bolts. If leak persists, then switch back to Dino. If leak still persists, clean and re-seal Jug-Case gap. This sound reasonable?

PICs





rutard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2012, 10:05 AM   #2
def
I've little to say
 
def's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Location: The woods and mountains of Alabama
Oddometer: 8,887
First, I believe you need to determine the source of the leak with accuracy.

Next, was the 600 mile retorque performed on the engine?

If so, you need to replace the seals/gaskets at the source of the leak.

Can you tell us your reason for deciding to switch to synthetic engine oil? Also, what viscosity did you choose?

BTW, Helicoils or Timeserts are a common repair for the OHV cover female threaded holes.
def is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2012, 03:53 PM   #3
rutard OP
Magnanimous Madcap
 
rutard's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: The Ether East of the Hudson
Oddometer: 326
Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
First, I believe you need to determine the source of the leak with accuracy.

Next, was the 600 mile retorque performed on the engine?

If so, you need to replace the seals/gaskets at the source of the leak.

Can you tell us your reason for deciding to switch to synthetic engine oil? Also, what viscosity did you choose?

BTW, Helicoils or Timeserts are a common repair for the OHV cover female threaded holes.
I've ridden, cleaned off, ridden, cleaned off, etc. The leak is from the forward seal (it is crumbling) between the Case and the Jug:




The bike has almost 100k. I'm the third owner. I am not sure about the 600mi retorque. I'd love to check the torque at the least. How is the retorque done?

I chose 15w40 Mobil 1. There was a sale at Autozone. It was first oil change since I bought the bike, and wasn't sure what was in it before.

I'm planning on doing the helicoils the next time I have the OHV covers off.
rutard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2012, 04:35 PM   #4
rutard OP
Magnanimous Madcap
 
rutard's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: The Ether East of the Hudson
Oddometer: 326
Trying to stop the leak before hitting the road tomorrow night. Anyone know how to retorque bolts? Could this be done w bike on lying on the left side, so I don't have to drain oil?

Are there any other solutions (ie JB Weld, high temp silicone sealant, etc.) that would allow me to wait until winter to open her up?
rutard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2012, 04:40 PM   #5
Gezerbike
Hey Rocky...........
 
Gezerbike's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Everybody knows this is nowhere......
Oddometer: 3,361
I seriously doubt that re torquing the jug will solve your issue.
__________________
___________________________________________

Mike

2012 R 1200 GS RALLYE 1997 Suzuki DR 350 SE
Gezerbike is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2012, 05:22 PM   #6
bikecat
Beastly Adventurer
 
bikecat's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Tropical Far East
Oddometer: 1,086
You can try re-torquing and re-evaluate the leak. That is the cheapest and least tedious method. You can do this with the bike upright, you will lose some oil but it is only a matter of topping off.

If that does not work, then the cylinder/block gasket will have to be replaced.
bikecat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2012, 05:47 PM   #7
Shortguy on BMW
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Shortguy on BMW's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Twentynine palms, CA
Oddometer: 127
Fix it later. Keep your oil level above min. in your ride. More damage won't be done since it isnt on the compression side. I believe they all do that eventually. If you strip your head bolts your ride won't happen.
Shortguy on BMW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2012, 09:09 AM   #8
rutard OP
Magnanimous Madcap
 
rutard's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: The Ether East of the Hudson
Oddometer: 326
Oil Tampon

Shortguy, Geezerbike, and Bikecat - Thanks for your input!!!

I think I'm going to leave it be, and continue to monitor.

However, I would like to decrease the amount of oil getting burnt off the Cat and Header pipes (it get's a bit noxious in traffic).

I was thinking of making some Oil Tampons out of something like THIS (using some locking wire to hold against seal). Is this stupid? Will it light my leg on fire?
rutard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2012, 01:50 PM   #9
Gezerbike
Hey Rocky...........
 
Gezerbike's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Everybody knows this is nowhere......
Oddometer: 3,361
I think you'd be risking the possibility of a fire with those.
__________________
___________________________________________

Mike

2012 R 1200 GS RALLYE 1997 Suzuki DR 350 SE
Gezerbike is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2012, 03:14 PM   #10
bdarling
Gnarly Adventurer
 
bdarling's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 413
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shortguy on BMW View Post
Fix it later. Keep your oil level above min. in your ride. More damage won't be done since it isnt on the compression side. I believe they all do that eventually. If you strip your head bolts your ride won't happen.
Sage advice here. I dug into my '95 to fix the exact same leak and ended up doing the job 3 times due to stripped threads in the case. Maybe I got a bad case, but the thread let go before I got 90 degrees of preload on the head stud. I just decided to live with the leak until I get bored of riding...

Also, use Hondabond to seal the case/jug...ultra gray is for idiots (like me).
__________________
SoCal Dual Sport - http://www.socaldualsport.com
bdarling is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2012, 03:49 PM   #11
mouthfulloflake
Not afraid
 
mouthfulloflake's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: N.W. Arkansas
Oddometer: 15,814
I also had to replace head gaskets, and reseal one cylinder on an early 1100gs

and , I too did not torque the head bolts to the full amount, it just felt like too much.

in fact, I never did the 600 mile retorque either.

that was a couple of years and several thousand miles ago, no leaks.

fingers are crossed!

its daunting initially, but not hard once you actually get into the job
__________________
In dog beers, I've only had one.
Charter member: T.O. club.
Tilt your head, not the taco.
mouthfulloflake is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2012, 06:08 AM   #12
rpm100
n00b
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Oddometer: 9
Btdt

My guess is you probably have a stripped cylinder stud. Had one go on my 95; my riding partner ending up doing all of his on his 95. Seems like the torque recommended is too much; we would get one done and when we did the last 90 degree, one or more would often strip.
We got pretty good at pulling and re-installing the cylinders by the time we did them all. Ultimately inserts, rather than helicoils, seemed the best solution.
We lightened up on the torque a bit and all seems well (knock wood).
Good luck with it.
__________________
Rick Matisak
Cleveland, Ohio
2000 K1200LT
1995 R1100GS
1978 R100/7
rpm100 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2012, 06:52 AM   #13
JimVonBaden
"Cool" Aid!
 
JimVonBaden's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Alexandria, VA
Oddometer: 48,668
Definitely a leak where the cylinder hits the case. Odds are strong that you have a bad stud, usually it is the lower left one:






Helicoil is what I used, timserts are fine too.

IMHO NOT fully torqueing the studs is asking for trouble down the road. The torquing process is not the reason they pull out. That is likely heat cycles and stress. If you have any doubt about the strength of the threads in the case, simply helicoil all of them while you are there.

Jim
JimVonBaden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2012, 02:13 PM   #14
JimVonBaden
"Cool" Aid!
 
JimVonBaden's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Alexandria, VA
Oddometer: 48,668
Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagerider View Post
According to Ted Porter the 95 1100 had an assembly issue where the studs were not run in all the way at the factory. It takes skill to do the helicoil correctly on these. Great bike, worth refurbishing.
Could be, I have heard that before.

The helicoil wasn't that hard, though I have done a few since then, it was not bad then.

JiM
JimVonBaden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2012, 05:57 AM   #15
rutard OP
Magnanimous Madcap
 
rutard's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: The Ether East of the Hudson
Oddometer: 326
Jim, Vintage, Mouthfull, RPM, and Bdarling, Thanks for taking the time to respond!

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the threads in the case are good, but it sounds like I shouldn't hold my breath.

A header bolts is stripped on each side, so I'm gonna have to tackle that in order to get at the seals and inspect the threads. Arrrrgh. I haven't been able to find any good threads on that, but I've got some time.
rutard is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 08:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014