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Old 09-04-2009, 01:59 PM   #226
tmex OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayner
Hey, don't worry. This is ADV, and nobody should be such a tightwad as to take offense that easily!

The length of the spacer needs to match the distance between the innermost bearing seat surfaces. Exactly the same would be ideal. The clamping force of the nut is to keep the axle positioned in the swingarm (and obviously to ensure the nut doesn't back off). It is not to 'preload' the bearing assemblies. The spacer should be in contact with the bearings prior to tightening the axle. (Spin one side bearing and the other should turn with it.) Only one bearing is held in by a circlip, so the appropriate spacer length is less of an issue than the depth the second bearing is seated to.
Yes, I agree that the spacer should be snug between the bearings. In fact, a spacer that is a tad long should be OK since the bearings could move in the hub to accomodate that. A spacer that is too short would spell the death of the bearing(s).
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Old 09-04-2009, 02:12 PM   #227
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Well for record, the front wheel spacer has plenty of slack. Im feeling it right now.
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Old 09-04-2009, 02:29 PM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot
Well for record, the front wheel spacer has plenty of slack. Im feeling it right now.
It is hard to know how much slack is too much slack. In my sample of two rear wheels (mine and F8GS) the rear spacer was snug enough that you when you spun one inner race with your finger the other race would move as well. I never looked at this on a front wheel. F8GS just got his wheel back from the dealer after new bearings were installed and the spacer in the rear was quite loose (he says). I can't see how how could get the axle in if the spacer was too loose.
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Old 09-04-2009, 02:53 PM   #229
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I suspect he meant side to side inside the hub, rather than lengthwise between the bearings??
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Old 09-04-2009, 03:08 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayner
I suspect he meant side to side inside the hub, rather than lengthwise between the bearings??
Thats correct Bayner.
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Old 09-04-2009, 03:42 PM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayner
I suspect he meant side to side inside the hub, rather than lengthwise between the bearings??
I thought so also, but you cannot have one without some of the other.
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:29 PM   #232
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Well we have some. Not much, but some. But it's normal I think. Before I had the proper bearing tool I used to use a punch when changing bearings on bikes. I could move the spacer to one side and exposing the edge of the spacer. Then catching the edge with my punch I'd knock out the bearing. Point is, I had enough slack to move the spacer fore and aft on other bikes in the past.
When installing these bearings they defintetly seated. But the spacer was not or is not, binding.
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:30 PM   #233
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Just curious for shadetree purposes only. Does the right side Wheel bearing have a circlip? thats the one behind the chain hub. The dvd doesn't say and no picture of that side. If it does, it doesn't seem to matter whether the axle tube supplies any pressure or not as the bearings will be supported on both sides. From the pictures of the galling I would be more interested in the left bushing and whether it is applying pressure on the inner race of the bearing when the axle is torqued down.
My money is on chinese bearings
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Old 09-04-2009, 06:22 PM   #234
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Since I had the wheels off I decided to mount a new set of tires now for the trip.
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:14 PM   #235
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I'm liking the way that Mitas hooks up.
Not certain but I think the circlip was on the brake rotor side. There's only the one.
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:25 PM   #236
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source for Mitas tire in the states?
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:37 PM   #237
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ok... i labored through this saga and think I got it:
1. Its the customer's fault...
2. I should just sell my '97, '02, and '04 Suzukis, 'cause if it can happen to a BMW, it WILL happen to my suzis..... there's no hope ....
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:25 PM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayner
I suspect he meant side to side inside the hub, rather than lengthwise between the bearings??
No, I meant lengthwise between the bearings. Before replacement, spinning one bearing spun the other because of the spacer. After I got it back from the dealer with new bearings, the spacer was loose and the spinning one bearing does NOT spin the other. Which way is correct????????
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:47 PM   #239
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spinning one bearing is more likely to spin the other bearing, but is not a gauge of correct or incorrect installation. the balance of the equation comes from the frictional drag of the four bearing seals and bearing cage drag vs the lateral friction of the assembled bearings and spacer. Now, here's where is gets interesting.... according to BMW, proper installation technique would be to heat the hub to about 100-150 degrees centigrade, and the bearing will simply drop into the hub. Having not personally performed a wheel bearing replacement, I'm not sure if the front wheel is single bearing centering (once "captured" wheel bearing, one floating) or both wheel bearings resting against a machined shoulder in the hub. I'd venture a guess that it's the latter option. If that is indeed the case, There are several possible outcomes: spacer longer, spacer same length, or spacer shorter than shouldered area. Each will produce a different "spinning" effect as you asked. I would continue to assume the tech did not take the time to heat the hub up hot enough to "drop" the bearings in. More likely, a hammer was "dropped" on a socket similar in size to the bearing, while sitting on the bearing, if yo get my drift. Fortunately, if an authorized BMW dealer did the work, you've got a 12,000 mile warranty!
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Old 09-05-2009, 05:09 AM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F8GS
No, I meant lengthwise between the bearings. Before replacement, spinning one bearing spun the other because of the spacer. After I got it back from the dealer with new bearings, the spacer was loose and the spinning one bearing does NOT spin the other. Which way is correct????????
I'd say "B".
I replaced the wheel bearings in my Husky not long ago and I could cock the spacer with my finger. Meaning it was not binded and had room enough I could move it. My Honda XR was the same way.
The front on the BMW is shouldered. And as I said earlier, room temp, the bearing drops half way in before needing to be pressing the rest of the way. I used a bearing tool that presses the piece in to the shoulder. Both spacers had room to slighlt wiggle them. Not binding.
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