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Old 11-25-2012, 07:45 AM   #1426
Reaver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motoriley View Post
None of my bearings last 29,000miles. Mine have been checked for correct bore and are fine but too much dirt and water means I'm on new front and rears again at 10, 000 miles.
Judging from your website, I can see why!

Judging from your sig line, I'd say that's one nice igloo you got there .

btw......it just started snowing here today.
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:04 AM   #1427
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Snow

We had our first few flakes yesterday...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reaver View Post
Judging from your website, I can see why!

Judging from your sig line, I'd say that's one nice igloo you got there .

btw......it just started snowing here today.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:08 PM   #1428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boon Booni View Post
At 29,000 miles it might just be that your bearings went bad without it being a defective hub. Used the bike offroad much? Any water crossings? Ride in the rain much? Last time you swapped tires, did you check the bearings by hand?
Let's see...

Bearings going bad just because of mileage, not bad hub: Maybe. I don't know that stuff. I was hoping that they would last longer than that.

Offroad much: Not really. I did only a handful of trips with minimal gravel road use.

Water crossings: Only two that I can remember, neither of them hub-deep, just 3-5 inches.

Ride in the rain: Yes. I tend to do that as often as I can.

Last tire swap: Did that at ~22,000 miles, I fingered the bearings but didn't feel any issues. That said, I don't really know much about motorcycle maintenance.

Based on what I've seen here, the best test is to stick the axle in the bearing and see how much it wiggles (thanks Motoriley).

I'm going to talk to the dealership where I bought it to see how much they can fix, and if I need to ship the wheel somewhere to get the hub repaired. The center spacer fell out and seems a bit mangled. I know I could order one of those but I don't know which way to install it (the long cylinder and ring, all the way on top of the image).


The spacer is #10 in this diagram, and I think the steel ring is permanently crimped to one end of the spacer:

The diagram came from A&S Cycle
http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_...indCat=36_1429
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:15 PM   #1429
Motoriley
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Rear bearings

Sounds like your hub might be undersized. Best bet would be to send it to Woody and have it checked. If you are just going to put new bearings in you might as well do it yourself. Buy them at any bearing supply joint and get better bearings for less money. The little ring that is crimped to the spacer is just there to make it easier to get the axle through. It keeps the spacer roughly aligned with the hole. Mines is loose as well and I just slid it on the last few times. I guess I could JB weld it or take it my buddy and have him give it a little tack weld but it doesn't worry me much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinzold View Post
Let's see...

Bearings going bad just because of mileage, not bad hub: Maybe. I don't know that stuff. I was hoping that they would last longer than that.

Offroad much: Not really. I did only a handful of trips with minimal gravel road use.

Water crossings: Only two that I can remember, neither of them hub-deep, just 3-5 inches.

Ride in the rain: Yes. I tend to do that as often as I can.

Last tire swap: Did that at ~22,000 miles, I fingered the bearings but didn't feel any issues. That said, I don't really know much about motorcycle maintenance.

Based on what I've seen here, the best test is to stick the axle in the bearing and see how much it wiggles (thanks Motoriley).

I'm going to talk to the dealership where I bought it to see how much they can fix, and if I need to ship the wheel somewhere to get the hub repaired. The center spacer fell out and seems a bit mangled. I know I could order one of those but I don't know which way to install it (the long cylinder and ring, all the way on top of the image).


The spacer is #10 in this diagram, and I think the steel ring is permanently crimped to one end of the spacer:

The diagram came from A&S Cycle
http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_...indCat=36_1429
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:28 PM   #1430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinzold View Post
Let's see...

Bearings going bad just because of mileage, not bad hub: Maybe. I don't know that stuff. I was hoping that they would last longer than that.
What does the third bearing look/feel like?
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:43 PM   #1431
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Source out your bearings and seals separately and save yourself half there. The spacers *seem* cheap enough for peace of mind. The dealer shouldn't have a problem with you supplying your own parts combined with his parts and labour. They should also have the measuring equipment to check the bore size anyway and probably a place to have it machined if necessary. It's winter slow in most places now so your business is appreciated. All the specs/PN's are in this thread somewhere.

Oh, and Woody, you had me at "Well"
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:35 PM   #1432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boon Booni View Post
What does the third bearing look/feel like?
Here you go:

I hammered it out with a piece of wood because it was not running smooth.


The hole doesn't look very clean, it's got some deep scratches from the olden days. However, I don't recall having bearings replaced. This must have been delivered this way.
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Old 11-25-2012, 02:29 PM   #1433
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Just cause you are past warranty doesn't mean BMW might not fix/replace it. This wouldn't be the first incident. Also consider filling out NHTSA report if you haven't

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/complaints/
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:28 PM   #1434
Moto Mikey
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I'm going to replace my rear wheel bearing in preparation for my year+ ride through South America. What are all the parts that I should replace? Just the wheel bearing(s)? What numbers from this diagram should I purchase and replace?

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Old 11-26-2012, 04:51 AM   #1435
Motoriley
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Replace

Replace all 5 bearings with 6204 double sealed (9.11,25). Maybe bring some spares of these. New seals if the old ones are worn (7,27). Wheel spacers if they are worn (14,28). A fellow in Germany makes stainless steel spacers which are going to last a lot longer. If the bike has higher mileage you may want to change the cush drive rubber (15). New chain and sprockets of course. Take it apart and have a look see.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moto Mikey View Post
I'm going to replace my rear wheel bearing in preparation for my year+ ride through South America. What are all the parts that I should replace? Just the wheel bearing(s)? What numbers from this diagram should I purchase and replace?

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Color tube TV, Microwave Oven (yes she rotates!),Washer & Dryer,Paved Driveway,
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:21 AM   #1436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motoriley View Post
Replace all 5 bearings with 6204 double sealed (9.11,25). Maybe bring some spares of these. New seals if the old ones are worn (7,27). Wheel spacers if they are worn (14,28). A fellow in Germany makes stainless steel spacers which are going to last a lot longer. If the bike has higher mileage you may want to change the cush drive rubber (15). New chain and sprockets of course. Take it apart and have a look see.
Awesome, Thanks. When you say all 5 bearings, I'm assuming you mean 3 in the rear and 2 in the front?
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:24 AM   #1437
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Bearings

Yup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moto Mikey View Post
Awesome, Thanks. When you say all 5 bearings, I'm assuming you mean 3 in the rear and 2 in the front?
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:10 PM   #1438
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May have a workround for this

This happened to me over and over again on the crappy dirt bikes I rode "way back then", finally tracked down the cause then after multiple bearing failures, it may help now.

You have a large air-space sealed with bearings at each end. The air inside gets hot as you ride, ( use the brakes etc), air expands, pushes through the bearings to escape as that's the only way out. (Not a problem).

However, you ride through water, or even rain, the hub cools, the air contracts and sucks damp air or water back through the bearing - not good. Water crossings were bearing killers, we worked that out early, but didn't figure out why for a long time.

Even better, the hub heats up again, the air/water now inside the hub expands and pushes back out through the bearings again. If you use the brakes hard, you steam clean the bearings. With drum brake bikes, the hubs definitely got hot enough to do generate steam, disc's , maybe, maybe not.

Either way the result is the grease gets cleaned out of the bearings and they get filled with water.

What we did to fix this 'way back when' was pack that air space with grease.

Now, that was fine with drum brakes since the bearings were outside the brakes, so if a little grease oozed out, no real problem. The first person to do this risks getting grease on the rear brake disk if they don't get the application exactly right.

Another possible fix would be to vent that space somehow, so it can't pressurize.

Pete
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:03 PM   #1439
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attaboy,,nice explanation

awesome job of articulating the phenommena ,,i explained the same thing hundreds of posts ago,,,hence we repack every dual sport riders bearings with high speed waterproof wheel bearing grease...

thanks for putting some solid thoughts together...

woody

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterW View Post
This happened to me over and over again on the crappy dirt bikes I rode "way back then", finally tracked down the cause then after multiple bearing failures, it may help now.

You have a large air-space sealed with bearings at each end. The air inside gets hot as you ride, ( use the brakes etc), air expands, pushes through the bearings to escape as that's the only way out. (Not a problem).

However, you ride through water, or even rain, the hub cools, the air contracts and sucks damp air or water back through the bearing - not good. Water crossings were bearing killers, we worked that out early, but didn't figure out why for a long time.

Even better, the hub heats up again, the air/water now inside the hub expands and pushes back out through the bearings again. If you use the brakes hard, you steam clean the bearings. With drum brake bikes, the hubs definitely got hot enough to do generate steam, disc's , maybe, maybe not.

Either way the result is the grease gets cleaned out of the bearings and they get filled with water.

What we did to fix this 'way back when' was pack that air space with grease.

Now, that was fine with drum brakes since the bearings were outside the brakes, so if a little grease oozed out, no real problem. The first person to do this risks getting grease on the rear brake disk if they don't get the application exactly right.

Another possible fix would be to vent that space somehow, so it can't pressurize.

Pete
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:40 PM   #1440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works View Post
awesome job of articulating the phenommena ,,i explained the same thing hundreds of posts ago,,,hence we repack every dual sport riders bearings with high speed waterproof wheel bearing grease...

thanks for putting some solid thoughts together...

woody
Heh, and still we have nearly 100 pages of "me-too's ?". (obviously I didn't read through them all myself or I'd have spotted your earlier post).

It's a twenty minute fix and $5 for the grease, maybe $20 if you have to buy a grease gun.

Oh - that's really tragic

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