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Old 08-19-2014, 07:07 PM   #1
flemsmith OP
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Location: Apache Junction, Az
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Questions from first spline lube

1985 R80RT, bought w/ 101K miles on it. Did all the normal new old bike stuff, put another 100 or so on it, figure it's time to check & lube the splines. Read some threads and snowbum's write-up, so now I'm starting and will need to ask some first time que's as I go along. So for starters:

Here's what I have under the starter cover, small hose connected to the far right, all the other hoses are open to the atmosphere.

Electrical connectors were still tied to both valve/solenoids(?!) Que's are: What is purpose of these two and do I need to leave all this stuff on and connected even though they are just venting to the air?
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Old 08-19-2014, 07:15 PM   #2
flemsmith OP
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Here's the small hose...

....that was tied into the small plastic fitting on the right end of above pix.
This picture on left side of starter looking down toward cyl.


If possible, I'd like to eliminate all the hose ends sticking out of the starter cover to nowhere, but first I need to know what these are for and what the impact would be. By the way, there's great input and advice on this site, so I wouldn't be surprised if this has already been answered, but since I don't know what these two things are called, I don't know how to search for the answer I'm looking for. (And as an aside, for a 100K mi bike, I really am enjoying it so far.) Roy
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Old 08-19-2014, 09:15 PM   #3
supershaft
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Is your clutch grabby? If not, you do not need to lube your splines. It is a complete waste of time unless your clutch is grabby. Lubing the splines does not make the clutch work better or help the splines last longer. What you do need to do is disconnect and remove your crankcase and fuel tank evap setup and reroute your fuel lines and vent lines. I suspect there are instructions somewhere. If not, I can type them out. Google it and see what comes up. I wouldn't be surprised is the bike actually needs a lot of work. Get to know your bike doing things for it that make a difference and actually matter versus lubing splines. Your bike will thank you!
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:06 PM   #4
flemsmith OP
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clutch works fine...

...and it shifts really smooth. I just thought with that many miles I should look at the splines before I trust it for a decent length trip. I've adjusted valves, changed all the fluids, took off the air pulse stuff that tied into the front of the cyl's and the airbox, checked the compression (125 on left, 130 on right), retuned the carbs after removing the air pulse system, changed to the lighter carb return springs, and regreased the heat sink for the electronic ignition w/ new dielectric grease. I've also replaced the clok and the Voltmeter, and added LED running lights up front and flashing brake hyperlite led's in the rear.

It does have a very intermittent miss or hesitation that seemed to get a bit better after the work on the heat sink....error in the original post, I've ridden it about 1000 or so miles since I bought it, not 100.

So if I don't need to look at the splines, what should I worry about before I trust it on a decent 500 mile ride or so?
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:11 PM   #5
flemsmith OP
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fuel lines...

actually, one of my next questions was gonna be about the gas tank vents....the ones on the bottom of the fuel tank are not connected to anything, just left open, doesn't seem to be causing any sort of problem, so I'm thinking someone already did that much.

SS, thanks for your response, not clear to me, are you telling me what my original pix shows? I'll google from your response and see what I get.

roy
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:25 AM   #6
Bill Harris
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Spline lube. A good preventitive maintenance this to do for any new-to-you bike.

"Like clockwork. If any post has the key words camshaft, sidestand, grind, glass bead, suspension, dyno run, spline lube, certain bike Gurus, he proceeds to do the almighty Billy dump..."

Those solenoids, etc, are part of the evaporative emission controls. Required for California bikes, they put them on all USA bikes anyway. Not needed. Those odd hoses are the tank vent and filler overflow lines.

Enjoy your ride...

--Bill
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:44 AM   #7
flemsmith OP
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It does need....

...a new rubber bellows around the Ujoint/driveshaft, so I'm thinking that's the same level of work as getting to the splines anyhow.

Thanks, I'll ditch those parts. Afterward, do I need to put some sort of filter on the end of the small tube that comes up from next to the starter?
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:21 AM   #8
Big Bamboo
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The two connectors for the solenoids can be plugged together, they are matching male and female, and this will not effect anything. That vent next to the starter should be plugged or your crankcase will vent into the starter cavity. I haven't done it, but I'm thinking it could be removed and plugged with a bolt of the same size. The overflow vent in the filler neck of the tank should have a hose down to some where low and to the rear of the bike, or every time you accidentally splash gasoline down it doesn't end up on top of your hot engine...
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:22 AM   #9
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
actually, one of my next questions was gonna be about the gas tank vents....the ones on the bottom of the fuel tank are not connected to anything, just left open, doesn't seem to be causing any sort of problem, so I'm thinking someone already did that much.

SS, thanks for your response, not clear to me, are you telling me what my original pix shows? I'll google from your response and see what I get.

roy
Your original picture.

There is no need whatsoever to lube the splines. Nothing preventative about it. Those splines work perfectly bone dry. That get that way after proper lubing in short order anyway. Lubing them does not make them last longer or work better. Lubing them does very often ruin clutches for grease contamination, break tranny covers for the drive shaft bolts coming loose for not tightening them back down properly, and the like.

Those hoses are the tank vent and filler overflow lines AND the crankcase vent line. Run your tank lines out and back down past the swingarm pivots. I think a short hose with a sheet metal screw in it is the best solution for the crank vent line. Of course, you will need fuel line and fuel line tees to set up your your fuel lines properly.

Replacing your driveshaft boot? Leave the tranny where it is and do this other work that needs doing!
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:55 AM   #10
CaptMako
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On the little vent by the starter I bought a vari-sized bubble package of
vacuum line plugs. Just little rubber nipples and found the proper size
for the vent and used some clear silicone sealer to permanently attach
it to the vent. Looks neat and clean. I didn't care for the piece of tubing
with a screw on the end look. FWIW and YMMV. Getting rid of the tubing
and the solenoids crap is a big plus. You can also buy a European starter
cover that does away with the holes left over after you remove the pollution
junk. Enjoy your bike.
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:43 PM   #11
Bill Harris
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Spline lube is good preventitive maintenance thing to do for any new-to-you bike. The plus is that the molybdenum disuflide (MOS2, "moly") incorporates itself into the surface of the spline steel (moly is a "dry lubricant") so the good effects are around long after it is not greasy-appearing. And the very activity of pulling the tranny, inspecting the clutch, rear main seal, transmission input seal, driveshaft bolt integrity and the drivesgaft boot is a pricless bonding experience.

If you know you will be pullng the gearbox to d a rear main seal or a clutch, do the spline lube then instead of as a separate operation.

Do what I advise, but don't take bad advice that you see on the Idiotnet.

--Bill
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Old 08-20-2014, 02:25 PM   #12
op48no1
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Common sense says raw metal rubbing on raw metal leads to heat and wear.

Dry splines are not necessarily unlubricated splines, since moly is a dry lubricant.

I would lube the damned things every once in a while. Cheap insurance.

-Henry
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Old 08-20-2014, 02:39 PM   #13
supershaft
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Lube the splines when you have the transmission off for legitimate reasons. The splines will get lubed plenty enough. No need to take the tranny off just to lube splines. I went 71,000 miles last time between spline lubes. I took the tranny off for tranny trouble. The splines were perfect. There's a long history to this urban legend and there are true believers. Reminds me of Bing CV carbs compensating for altitude. Everyone says that but no one explains how. It's tough to do since they do not compensate for altitude.

Don't take bad advise? There are a couple of inmates here that regularly give poor advise. Half of the time it is very evident with those that have actual experience with the topic that these said inmates have no experience with the issue. Like this one, for instance.

Priceless bonding experience? More like worthless bonding experience. Your bike actually needs things done to it. Do those things and bond much better for it. Your setup will be MUCH better for it as well!

Common sense? Common sense tells me that clutch splines last nearly 'forever' dry in countless vehicles just as they do in our bikes. A lot of actual experience tells me the exact same thing. Counter intuitive? No. Actually it isn't. Not if you actually think about it versus just doing what everybody says you should do.

supershaft screwed with this post 08-20-2014 at 03:25 PM
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Old 08-20-2014, 03:18 PM   #14
op48no1
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Well, this is an opinion you have stated many times now and in the past. And because you have some experience, your opinion deserves consideration. On the other hand, what you are saying is sufficiently counter-intuitive that it bears, IMHO, going in the "Maybe" bin, but not the "OMG, Absolutely True" bin.

Different people may come to different conclusions, but that's the way I call it.

-Henry
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Old 08-20-2014, 03:50 PM   #15
chollo9
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