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View Results: I have been to the county of Fuckshire, it was ...
Nice? 29 13.12%
Nasty? 30 13.57%
Nasty but nice? 162 73.30%
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:43 PM   #4713
planktonnn OP
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http://www.2040motos.com/_content/ca.../99207/002.jpg

Info @ http://www.2040motos.com/BMW/R-Serie...0s-r75--99207/
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planktonnn screwed with this post 11-19-2013 at 06:39 AM Reason: Linkage
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:45 PM   #4714
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http://static.squarespace.com/static...eg?format=500w


http://static.squarespace.com/static...g?format=1000w

http://classicvelocity.com/broadcast...pre-domination
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:32 AM   #4715
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I for one don't have the bandwidth on my tattered SIM Dongle Sub-Dialup speed internot connection to look back & find the previous references to the DMW, so for those that aren't fullyinformed as to the thing I ride & writt about, it's this picatured here. The first three are roughly where it's at now, the fourth (pic by Pjcr12penceperpicture credit) is the 1st iteration, with a different exhaust...









Spec stuff in next post when I can get it together to writt it.
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:57 AM   #4716
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DMW FYI Ė Now (mostly) in telegraph form...

Quote:
Originally Posted by planktonnn View Post
...DMW Pics...
Notes from an Airhead Charlatan.


  • í79 twinshock frame, unmodified/unbraced. Original paint, daubed with Kurust, which resembles original paint when it goes off :-) No centre stand. Would have preferred a mono but that wasnít what was floating about. Donor bike cost £50.
  • RAASK rear-sets, with pillion extension cut off (no rear seat, and am not insured for passenger, and no-one wants to jump on anyhow :-D). No brake light switch on rear actuation system. Pre í86 bikes only need one switch, either front or rear. If I recall correctly certain ages donít have to have brake lights (i.e. bike with daylight MOT) but donít quote me on that (or anything)Ö
  • ĎWetí brake switch in front hydraulic line, but is a bit laggy so use a standard plunger prodded by brake lever type. Not a great fan of these as they eventually either stick open or get gritted up & temperamental (as mine recently did), and are annoyingly 1mm smaller than the similar K series switch, of which I have a few.
  • Subframe rear loop shorted & rewelded to brace between the shock mounting points (by DBD), tho/ough Iíd fancy getting a bit of flatbar brazed (more pliant than MIG) across to increase subrame rigidity in relation to the forces exerted by the rear shocks, which presumably suffers without the full hoop at the rear, inducing some amount of possible twist?
  • No seat padding. Not fucked :-D Seat pan self cut from mild steel plate & hammered until it fitted.
  • Ikon shocks (via recommendation from local Dave*, who runs the Konis theyíre modelled on), set on highest pre-load to raise the back so the mudfenderguard doesnít catch on the tyre/ire at heaviest compression.
  • Rear mudfenderguard - The front half of a K75 front srewed/fibreglassed (bodged) to half a CX500 rear mudfenderguard. Forward lower end fitís nicely onto the (bent down) tangs on the battery box, and itís bolted into the standard underseat mudfenderguard mounts. A rudimentary bracket fashioned from bent flat aluminum/minium supports the rear section of the mudfenderguard & holds the rear light & correctly sized (donít issue me a bogus £30 on the spot ticket you pointy headed cnut) number plate along the way.
  • Rear light is a cheap Chinese LED unit (1/4 the price of the Former United Commonwealth kingdoms suppliers) & works just fine thank you. Includes LEDs facing down to light numberplate, as required by MOT. Because this unit uses red LEDs it has no reflective lens so I have to add a small reflector to meet MOT requirements. Dave has little stick on bicycle ones :-)
  • Stainless 40mm pipes with a front crossover. Actually manufactured as 38mm pipes with flared ends, little bit of a cheat really but I donít suppose it makes a lot of difference). Supertrapp end caps, using 12 plate per side. The number of plates effects the volume/tone & increases or decreases back pressure. I donít recall whichÖ No silencers, so the length of the exhaust tract is of course all wrong. Donít know for a fact but length of system seems to work ok at lower revs but the breathing seems all wrong at the top end, probably, but I like them stubby.
  • K75s front end Ė fits right in, same or similar enough to fit bearings. Concomitant heavier top trippleyolktree, replacing the flexiplate on the standard forks. 75s has different internal spacers to other models of 75. Progressive springs. Heavier fork oil & aftermarket aircaps in the top that allow pressurisation of the stanchions (not currently pumped up) and allow preload adjustment (none currently applied). Telefix fork brace + BMW hooped type, not the steel curvy one. This lower brace was heated & bent out a little to fit the wider K forks. No standard K series bridge brace. R series headlight mounts, which just fit within the K series tripleyolktrees if you omit some rubbers. Better front brakes. I hate the early swivelly (canít recall the name) type.
  • Front brake mastercylinder on handlebar (late?) with square reservoir, rather than under-tank system, which (tho/ough it makes for cleaner/clearer look on bars) always seems a bit laggy to me?, but then what do I know.
  • Front mudfenderguard made from half of standard front jury-rigged onto the lower frame brace.
  • No indicators. A bike of this age doesnít have to have them, and the left hand switchgear doesnít have an indicator switch anyhow :-) Have taken out indicator relay in headlamp & removed wiring where I felt confident enough to cut it without it knocking something else out. Switchgear wiring if bodged into loom with bullet connectors and the wiring colour scheme is all wrong but it all sort of make sense if you look at it before you take it apart. May get round to block connector when the current arrangement falls apart.
  • No mirrors, just plenty of checking.
  • Standard (30 amp hr) battery. Two earth straps, one to frame, other to clutch actuation arm pivot. Some suggest that as the original (speedo mount) point is on the engine (holding the heavy electrics) then one should go for an engine earth as with the standard.
  • No neutral light or oil pressure light, just an LED high beam warning light, as required by MOT, and I donít think it has to be blue does it? Mineís orange anyway.
  • £2.99 bicycle speedo/odometer. Mark a point on the wheel & the floor, push bike forward until mark is at bottom again, measure distance from 1st mark on the floor & enter that into speedo to calibrate, then ride past those ĎYou are doing more than 30mph!?!í signs they stick up all over this shitty little town & see if they go off.
  • Wiring generally hacked to shit. I know (mostly) whatís what (or can rework it out) & Iím never selling this bike so thatís all that matters.
  • Karcoma petrolcoktaps with filters built in, plus stack filters in (mucho dented Ďpolisí) tank. Is Petsealed, and doesnít seem to be melting from the increased ethanol percentage in fuel, so far.
  • Tyre/ires. Round. Black. Rear is one size up but itís chilly & I donít fancy popping out to check the sizes. Front size is of course determined by the K series front end & wheel. Are they the same as standard R series sizes? Canít be arsed to check.
  • Narrow flat BMW bars, mounted on heightened blocks rather than straight into the tripleyolktree, just to increase tank clearence. Bar end weights. Slight mod to frame lock stop to match different position of lock stop pillars on K series bottom trippleyolktree.
  • Thick type swingarm. Custom braced underneath by the local Dave. Same as the one on DBDs cafť racer.
  • No diode board, no standard regulator. Higher output Electrex World combined regulator/rectifier mounted on clean side of rear mudfenderguard, with rubber gromits on the bolts to buffer it from vibes a bit. Battery charges well and doesnít boil off due to excessive voltage input.
  • Bosch 9 tooth starter. See post 4707. Seems to be behaving better, and the new lower left throttle cable is now installed. All seems ok-ish tho/ough the cable outer has a little less clearance (wobble) at the end than the other side, even with adjuster fully down & locking nut fitted under carb body. Thatís what you get for only replacing one sideÖ
  • Canít recall rear bevel ratio, but whichever one gives better acceleration & knocks speed off the top. Suits me as I prefer a bit of lower speed zip rather than licence sapping top speed.
  • Spoked rear wheel, donít like the star ones. Rear drum, donít like the rear disks.
  • Frame mounted oil cooler (i.e. rather than the GS crashbar one) using braided lines by a supplier I canít remember the name of. Flat cover plate at oil filter end, no thermostat. Temperature gauge dipstick, tho/ough itís swivelled round a bit so while it shows variance in running temps it doesnít give the correct reading.
  • Post í82 engine, light flywheel, nikasil barrels & largest valves, whatever size that is? Round rocker boxes as I prefer them. Nice & battered from skating down the road. Clutch was all new at discount price when bike was re-animated from having sat in a shed for years.
  • I have carefully removed all SHINY and CLEAN. All this Ďwell engineered & something to polish & be proud ofí stuff just does my nut in. Also, am very clumsy and if I walk within 5 feet of it with a hammer Iím bound to chip/bash any carefully applied finish. Also, fuck tidiness.


* NB: As previously stated, all classic mechanics are of course called Dave, even those called Ian who will anyway become called Dave when the current Dave retires.
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planktonnn screwed with this post 11-19-2013 at 10:12 AM
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:52 PM   #4717
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quote:(pic by Pjcr12penceperpicture credit)

As a special favour, I'll let you off the 12 pence, as Iknow you are bereft of shekels at the present time.

By the way, re your spec list...you are running 18" wheels back and front.
I have a NOS 400x18 front tyre, that is surplus to my requirements, if you a)want it FOC, and b) want a funky chunky front-end look, then come and get it, h'nkay?
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:16 PM   #4718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjcr12 View Post
quote:(pic by Pjcr12penceperpicture credit)

As a special favour, I'll let you off the 12 pence, as Iknow you are bereft of shekels at the present time.

By the way, re your spec list...you are running 18" wheels back and front.
I have a NOS 400x18 front tyre, that is surplus to my requirements, if you a)want it FOC, and b) want a funky chunky front-end look, then come and get it, h'nkay?
My word I should have proofread that post, the fee should of course have read £12 p/pixel... I'll get the tape measure out & see what's the widest I can squeeze in the front & let you know
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Old 11-20-2013, 07:43 AM   #4719
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He's not wrong you know...


http://fc02.deviantart.net/fs71/i/2013/189/7/e/following_munch_xd__l_urlo___scream_munch__by_desi gnermf-d6chvwb.jpg

Via http://designermf.deviantart.com/art...unch-383786939

Munch image search - https://www.google.com/search?safe=o...70.4eNiV--Mtss
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:02 AM   #4720
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Macau madness...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmRveAcEHsA

When I first saw brief reports of Hutchinsons win from Rutter after a red flag, they seemingly implied (slightly) that Hutchy was fortunate to take the win due to the stoppage truncating Rutters pursuit, but watching the above in full it's anything but a fortunate win. Once Hutchinson gets by he just checks out & there's no touching him :-) Good luck to him after his Silverstone crash in 2010, which as you may recall almost cost him a leg...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=ZCSJbDBUV3Q

On another Macau note, the following shows how not to run a lap catching up to the recently deployed Pace Car...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=q3XmeN1Tyj0

The first accident is just about understandable, as the driver runs unsighted into the back of a slowing Tom Chilton while the race is still live, but from then on the Safety Car boards are out & it just gets spectaco-ridiculous as drivers sprint round to catch the end of the SC snake, and in a sense I suppose these events adequately answer any critics of the requirement to drive slowly, wherever you are on the circuit, once the Safety Car boards have been deployed...

I particularly enjoyed the fact that the only word I understood in the entire commentary was 'Unbelievable'
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:35 PM   #4721
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planktonnn....don't know if you are still having problems, interwebwise, but I got an email bounced back that wouldn't deliver. Regarding that 400x18 front tyre I offered you? Well, it looks like someone broke into my shed and replaced it with a 4.10x18, just to mess with my mind...you'll recall something similar happened to Astral a couple of years ago, where he strongly suspected that someone had swapped his centre stand, unbeknownst to him, for a different one that was nearly, but not quite, the same as the original? There's some weird shit going on, and no mistake.
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:45 AM   #4722
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=WM921saJqXc
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:10 AM   #4723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjcr12 View Post
planktonnn....don't know if you are still having problems, interwebwise, but I got an email bounced back that wouldn't deliver. Regarding that 400x18 front tyre I offered you? Well, it looks like someone broke into my shed and replaced it with a 4.10x18, just to mess with my mind...you'll recall something similar happened to Astral a couple of years ago, where he strongly suspected that someone had swapped his centre stand, unbeknownst to him, for a different one that was nearly, but not quite, the same as the original? There's some weird shit going on, and no mistake.
Ah now, if I recall correctly he had a CX500 at the time, and the base of the centre stand had worn thru/ough so that the tubing had partially collapsed, and when he walked out of my house the bike was sitting on the stand oddly, so he became immediately & totally convinced that there & then somebody had swapped out his centre stand. The very first thing that came to mind was that somebody, for some reason, had taken the trouble not only to steal his shitty centre stand, but furthermore had taken all the trouble to fit another one just to fool him.

Not only was this incredible because of the unlikeness of such a plot, it was spectacular because he was immediately & unquestioningly convinced that there was no other explanation than that given above. To him it seemed utterly logical & there was no other possibility. Indeed it was not until I ground out the pivot of the knackered stand & swapped in a spare he had and then showed him the flattened out base and demonstrated how it would cause the bike to sag that he began to understand that his analysis was as skewed as the rest of his unfortunate personality. Well, for the sake of accuracy I should say that he became enlightened as to the problem with the 1st stand - he remained totally bent in all other regards. And no doubt still is.

I say no doubt because I've not seen him in months. I disposed of him because I became tired of his habit of only contacting me when he wanted something, and then trying to take advantage, and being an arse in the process. I became tired of his proclivity for bending reality itself to suit his wants.

Tyre wise I'm not sure I can get the proffered tyre/ire into my front end, and tho/ough I'm not sure of the specific problems of running a front on the rear, I'm reluctant to run myself as a test subject as if it were to cause me to drop the bike I'm screwed for spares or a repair budget, so if you don't mind I'll pass :-)

I'm unsure as to why an email might bounce back as my netweb problem is one of access rather than site functionality
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:33 AM   #4724
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=KGyhT5nVsEU
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:38 PM   #4725
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As far as I know, tyres specifically marked 'front' would very quickly wear out, or even break up, if fitted to the rear. No problem, I'll keep hold of it until I manage to offload it onto someone else.....re the email bounce-back; I've reason to believe that someone broke into my house, and got access to my computer, where they erased the 'm' of the .com at the end of your email address. Evil-doers are everywhere, and I have notified all the proper authorities, especially GCHQ and the NSA, who probably saw the hacked and altered email address in their mega-trawl and did nothing about it.....I mean, do these people work for us or what? They might have let me know.
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