The Africa Twin thread - Page 633

Ladder106 · 05-14-2011, 01:16 PM

The inner cable should just slide right out of the housing. If it's indeed broken it's easily observed.

More likely it's the white nylon speedo drive gear in the front wheel housing. AFAIK this part is the same as the AT bit also. The gear, not the drive (the AT uses a large diameter axle so the housings are a bit different.

Reidy008 · 05-14-2011, 04:50 PM

I pulled the cable as the gear seems good and working. the slotted end that matches up to the gear turns very freely but the top off the cable is bound up badly and will not slide out of the outer sheeth. I will have a cable off a Transalp here this week and see what happens.

On a second note can some one confirm to me that both head lights should be working and on when lights are on low and high beems. Cheers

Jim Davis · 05-14-2011, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thecli

Has EVERYONE here done the "fix" on their R/R connector????
Should I solder them too???
I have a bathroom philosophy, that states that since I drive all the time with my high beams on, it saves my R/R from getting too hot, hence not frying my plug... Which I periodically check for corrosion... I carry a spare R/R, just in case, but, so far so good!!!?!!!

But the alternator isn't smart, it always pumps out the same current depending on rpm. Those connections feed the R/R where the current is dealt with and converted. Running HI beams doe NOT lower the current from the alternator to the R/R and will not go easier on this connection.

You DEFINITELY need to look after this connection. If in doubt replace.

The MetriPack 3P-280 is a good sealed connector that will last a long time for this job. I highly recommend it.

The thing is it might LOOK ok, but next week it might burn out. Once it gets to the point of a bit of resistance that turns into heat and starts burning and melting quickly.

Jim Davis · 05-14-2011, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thecli

Im sorry if i seem ignorant, but im having some difficulty trying to figure out how to distribute power to all the various devices on my africa twin... for instance i currently run an alarm, a dc output, as well as a battery tender, all sandwiched on my positive and negative terminals... if you include the original wiring that turns into 4 wires on some very small screws... im sure someone else has had this problem before? i know there is a spare slot in the fusebox for 1 more fuse to be added... but i was hoping someone made a dedicated power distribution unit which i can mount on the bike, in order to have it all in one neat arrangement.... Stormforce? GSPD? im sure you guys have this figured out... care to chime in???

I make the 3 Circuit Solution. Needless to say it's the solution for your problems. I have one on my AT. Feeds an H4 Relay Kit, GPS/Charge Socket, and a Heated Gear Socket.

Incidentally, I popped out my red speed warning light and the bracket is perfect for my panel mount coax socket which is where I now plug in my heated gear. Very small, neat and clean I love it!

at_dirt · 05-14-2011, 07:05 PM

By bellpsp at 2011-05-14

Just trying to upload a picture for the future

at_dirt · 05-14-2011, 07:08 PM

By bellpsp at 2011-05-14,

By bellpsp at 2009-10-09.

Ladder106 · 05-14-2011, 08:50 PM

Wait...did we just have another earthquake?

Where do Arizona and the ocean meet? Maybe I shoulda bought that ocean-front property in Nevada.

at_dirt · 05-14-2011, 09:11 PM

They meet after a little saddle time . It's the lost coast in NorCal. Not that far from your neck of the woods! The other pictures are out in my neck of the woods, about 10 miles out the back door.

Reidy008 · 05-14-2011, 10:13 PM

At Dirt where are you in Arizona? I am an Aussie that lives here in Phoenix and I have an Africa Twin a Transalp and a few other toys.

at_dirt · 05-15-2011, 05:52 AM

Hey Reidy008 I am up near Bartlett Lake, North of Carefree/Scottsdale Area. I had a pair of Transalps also, what a great bike! I think that you might have ridden once or twice with BoneDoc when he had the purple/yellow AT, or maybe with his modified TA. If not then maybe there are 3 AT's in the phoenix Area. (At least)!!!! Drop me a pm if you are ever riding up in this area.

raoulserban · 05-15-2011, 07:23 AM

my rd04 has got 58000km on the clock, and it is built in 1990!
i am in the process of changing the sprockets and chain and i observed this

do i have to worry? is this normal wear for a 60k km ATbike? if this isn't quite normal or in the parameters ,what can i do to prevent the wear!
thank you in advance!

ray3656 · 05-15-2011, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raoulserban

my rd04 has got 58000km on the clock, and it is built in 1990!
i am in the process of changing the sprockets and chain and i observed this

do i have to worry? is this normal wear for a 60k km ATbike? if this isn't quite normal or in the parameters ,what can i do to prevent the wear!
thank you in advance!

that looks ok to me....
nothing to worry about..

but DO fit the Honda OEM front and a new tab washer..

Ladder106 · 05-15-2011, 08:28 AM

The CS sprocket wear seems a bit accelerated, the output shaft still look like its in "very good" condition...not "excellent/new" but certainly servicable.

WATCH YOUR CHAIN TENSION

It's my belief that setting the chain tension too tight (to street bike rather than dirt bike standards) is responsible for most of the abnormal and accelerated output shaft wear we've seen here.

Remember the AT is really a "dirt bike" with almost twice the standard rear suspension movement of most "street bikes". That means your chain will appears very slack to most eyes. This is particularly important if you take your bike in for service or tire changes because the "techs" will thing the tension is wrong and change it....sometimes without asking.

If you want to find the perfect tension for your bike it's easy....just ask.

The other bit of conventional wisdom is to grit your teeth and pay the extra bit for the original Honda OEM CS sprocket. Most aftermarket CS sprockets advertise that they are "hardened". Well....that may be a selling point but since we don't know if they are harder than the output shaft or not (since the sprocket manufacturers aren't saying what the Rockwell number of their product is) we don't know if it's safe to use them. The point being that the sprocket should never be harder than the output shaft. If there is any wear you want it to occur in the part that is easy to replace.

So....whew....I'd replace the CS sprocket (chain and rear if worn) and then set up my chain tension correctly and keep my eye on it after servicing or tire changes if you don't do this yourself.

Squily · 05-15-2011, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ladder106

The other bit of conventional wisdom is to grit your teeth and pay the extra bit for the original Honda OEM CS sprocket. Most aftermarket CS sprockets advertise that they are "hardened". Well....that may be a selling point but since we don't know if they are harder than the output shaft or not (since the sprocket manufacturers aren't saying what the Rockwell number of their product is) we don't know if it's safe to use them. The point being that the sprocket should never be harder than the output shaft. If there is any wear you want it to occur in the part that is easy to replace.

+1

It's much cheaper paying for front sprockets than replacing the shaft. And watch the end-play on the final drive bearing. If that shafts starts to "feel loose", you'll have to split the engine to replace it. But the alternative is a complete engine rebuild. I got about 130kkm out of my final drive bearing.

Joz · 05-15-2011, 06:19 PM

Thanks Jim, just went through the Springs this morning on the way back from camping & riding down south. Spent the rest of the day working on the diesel! Lots of photos to post up. We'll meet up soon. Hopefully it will be warmer than 36*F & rain like it was this morning when I woke up!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Rowley

You don't have to wait till then. If you're at another stand still with your RV project, let's meet up.

05-14-2011, 04:50 PM	#9482
Reidy008 I,m in if we go fast Joined: Jan 2010 Location: Peoria, AZ Oddometer: 1,444	Cable I pulled the cable as the gear seems good and working. the slotted end that matches up to the gear turns very freely but the top off the cable is bound up badly and will not slide out of the outer sheeth. I will have a cable off a Transalp here this week and see what happens. On a second note can some one confirm to me that both head lights should be working and on when lights are on low and high beems. Cheers

05-14-2011, 07:08 PM	#9486
at_dirt Adventurer Joined: Nov 2004 Location: Arizona Oddometer: 82	By bellpsp at 2011-05-14, By bellpsp at 2009-10-09. at_dirt screwed with this post 01-30-2012 at 08:41 AM

05-14-2011, 10:13 PM	#9489
Reidy008 I,m in if we go fast Joined: Jan 2010 Location: Peoria, AZ Oddometer: 1,444	Arizona At Dirt where are you in Arizona? I am an Aussie that lives here in Phoenix and I have an Africa Twin a Transalp and a few other toys.

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05-14-2011, 01:16 PM	#9481
Ladder106 It's a short cut, really Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Davis, CA Oddometer: 4,268	The inner cable should just slide right out of the housing. If it's indeed broken it's easily observed. More likely it's the white nylon speedo drive gear in the front wheel housing. AFAIK this part is the same as the AT bit also. The gear, not the drive (the AT uses a large diameter axle so the housings are a bit different.

05-14-2011, 07:05 PM	#9485
at_dirt Adventurer Joined: Nov 2004 Location: Arizona Oddometer: 82	By bellpsp at 2011-05-14 Just trying to upload a picture for the future

05-14-2011, 08:50 PM	#9487
Ladder106 It's a short cut, really Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Davis, CA Oddometer: 4,268	Wait...did we just have another earthquake? Where do Arizona and the ocean meet? Maybe I shoulda bought that ocean-front property in Nevada.

05-14-2011, 09:11 PM	#9488
at_dirt Adventurer Joined: Nov 2004 Location: Arizona Oddometer: 82	They meet after a little saddle time . It's the lost coast in NorCal. Not that far from your neck of the woods! The other pictures are out in my neck of the woods, about 10 miles out the back door.

05-15-2011, 05:52 AM	#9490
at_dirt Adventurer Joined: Nov 2004 Location: Arizona Oddometer: 82	Hey Reidy008 I am up near Bartlett Lake, North of Carefree/Scottsdale Area. I had a pair of Transalps also, what a great bike! I think that you might have ridden once or twice with BoneDoc when he had the purple/yellow AT, or maybe with his modified TA. If not then maybe there are 3 AT's in the phoenix Area. (At least)!!!! Drop me a pm if you are ever riding up in this area.

05-15-2011, 07:23 AM	#9491
raoulserban vrrummm Joined: Aug 2010 Location: Timisoara, Romania Oddometer: 41	my rd04 has got 58000km on the clock, and it is built in 1990! i am in the process of changing the sprockets and chain and i observed this do i have to worry? is this normal wear for a 60k km ATbike? if this isn't quite normal or in the parameters ,what can i do to prevent the wear! thank you in advance!

05-15-2011, 08:28 AM	#9493
Ladder106 It's a short cut, really Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Davis, CA Oddometer: 4,268	The CS sprocket wear seems a bit accelerated, the output shaft still look like its in "very good" condition...not "excellent/new" but certainly servicable. WATCH YOUR CHAIN TENSION It's my belief that setting the chain tension too tight (to street bike rather than dirt bike standards) is responsible for most of the abnormal and accelerated output shaft wear we've seen here. Remember the AT is really a "dirt bike" with almost twice the standard rear suspension movement of most "street bikes". That means your chain will appears very slack to most eyes. This is particularly important if you take your bike in for service or tire changes because the "techs" will thing the tension is wrong and change it....sometimes without asking. If you want to find the perfect tension for your bike it's easy....just ask. The other bit of conventional wisdom is to grit your teeth and pay the extra bit for the original Honda OEM CS sprocket. Most aftermarket CS sprockets advertise that they are "hardened". Well....that may be a selling point but since we don't know if they are harder than the output shaft or not (since the sprocket manufacturers aren't saying what the Rockwell number of their product is) we don't know if it's safe to use them. The point being that the sprocket should never be harder than the output shaft. If there is any wear you want it to occur in the part that is easy to replace. So....whew....I'd replace the CS sprocket (chain and rear if worn) and then set up my chain tension correctly and keep my eye on it after servicing or tire changes if you don't do this yourself.