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Old 08-05-2006, 05:03 PM   #151
rockt
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Haven't changed my own tires since my first bike, a Yamaha YZ80, in 1976, (is it really 30 years - where did that time go!?). Recently got an XR250L to potter around on, mostly back/dirt roads, and didn't need the aggressive Kenda 760 Trackmasters that came on it, so I got a set of 270's and proceeded to do the switch. Took the 760's off without reading Neduro's most excellent tutorial and struggled a bit. Read Neduro's intstructions before mounting the new tires and... 2 tires, inflated, 1 hour flat. Pretty easy really. I kept making sure the bead was in the dish and I kept reminding myself that if I'm forcing it, it's the wrong way. Backed off a couple of times, adjusted the bead into the dish, took small steps with the irons and voila! Oh, I also left the tires in the sun for an hour before spooning them on, which seemed to help. I didn't use any lube either.

So there you have it. If I can do it anyone can.
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Old 08-05-2006, 05:37 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockt
...Oh, I also left the tires in the sun for an hour before spooning them on, which seemed to help. I didn't use any lube either.
The heat-them-up-in-the-sun trick helps a lot. I did my last change without lube, but the bead didn't seat easily. Next time I will use a little lube to get the bead to seat easier.
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Old 08-05-2006, 06:51 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murgatroid42
The heat-them-up-in-the-sun trick helps a lot.
first day of overcast in weeks here and I am changing my first set of tires - d'oh! So anyway - the Maxxis street tires that were on those rims were a PAIN to get off, at least the rear 18" tire. 21" front came off and wet on in 5 minutes, even without the sun helping to make things more pliable. 15" irons rule.

Messed up my rear tube with the irons, so now I have to patch that thing or wait until Monday to get a new tube, since bike stores are all closed in this state on Sundays.

I guess I will have to keep doing this tire changing thing on these old rims to get more practice before I get some nice rims

Peter
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Old 08-19-2006, 04:59 PM   #154
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tires

thank you everyone for all the great info.... my tkc/s await..

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Old 08-23-2006, 03:11 AM   #155
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Great topic, thanks alot Neduro
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Old 08-23-2006, 07:24 AM   #156
rockt
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My actual tire changing is going well - 3 tires since reading Neduro's tutorial and no busted knuckles or pinched tubes. I do, however, seem to have a little trouble getting the bead to seat. Takes 3-4 tries of airing up and down. I finally use tons of soap and it goes, but then I have soap drooling out the valve hole for days after. Is there a better way?
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:38 PM   #157
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Check above posts for "Armorall" as lubricant

As I psyche and educate myself for install of D606 rear & TKM80 front on OEM BRP.

Thanks Ned !
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:40 PM   #158
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has anybody tried spray silicon I wonder how that works for slipping the beads
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Old 09-13-2006, 10:28 AM   #159
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I didn't see this link in the thread so if it is 205 sorry 'bout that.

This guy make is look so easy.

http://www.transworldmotocross.com/m...215721,00.html

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Old 10-15-2006, 02:28 PM   #160
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Giving this fantabulous thread a bump because I'm about to change a tire on my own for the first time and want it near the top where I can find it


Taking the EXC to Baja next weekend and need to mount a new rear knob and ultra heavy duty tubes front and rear. Went with Pirelli MT18 rear tire on the recommendation of the guys at Scotts Performance (which just happens to be around the corner from my house) but I can already tell it's gonna be a challenge to get that stiff rubber onto my rim.

Wish me luck!


P.S. the guys at Scotts also recommended running slime in my tubes for Baja... anybody suggest when to add it and how much to use?


Edit: Well I got the rear tire off following ned's instructions without any major difficulty. Getting the new tire back on I did have to resort to R-dubb's trick of a moist paper towel with a little dish soap on it. I also had a bit of trouble keeping the opposite side in the dish of the tire, this could partly be due to the fact that I was mounting a 120 width tire on a 110 rim.

I'll put the HD tube into the 21 inch front tomorrow night... gotta pace myself


Thanks for posting this neduro!!!
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Old 10-18-2006, 06:03 PM   #161
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Zen, I've found a second set of hands (even completely unskilled) helps out a lot keeping the opposite bead in the dish. Failing that, I usually try to kneel on it.


Reading many Baja reports, sounds like there can be a lot of thorns (or nails, in Inte's case) down there. Dwrads had a report where there were like 15+ punctures on the bikes w/o slime, and zero on the bikes with.


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Old 10-29-2006, 12:17 PM   #162
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BUMP for a super thread!
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Old 10-30-2006, 04:08 PM   #163
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Very nice work, Neduro!

I do have one question, though... When putting the second bead of the new tire on, I usually start opposite the valve stem, and work around so that the part near the valve goes on last. I do it that way because it seems like the tire bead won't fit down in the "dish" with the valve stem going through the hole there.
The 2nd and 3rd photos in Step 6 where you are stepping on the tire to hold the bead down in the dish have you stepping, essentially, on the valve stem. Seems like a bad idea to me, but obviously it works for you.

Some other people have mentioned having a hard time getting beads to seat, and that seems to be my biggest problem as well.

I've taken tubed and tubeless tires up to 100 PSI to seat beads. They've never popped for me, but I certainly do worry. Sometimes I put my helmet on while doing that. 100 PSI usually does the trick (when ratcheting tie-downs strapped around the tire won't), but I will try some of the tips others have mentioned in the future.

My most recent tire changing adventure involved the Kenda 270 that came with my new (to me) DRZ. I noticed when I got it home that the front tire wasn't correctly seated, and I'm not sure if I bought it that way, or if it came un-seated while strapped down in my truck.
Anyway, I broke the bead and pushed it up to 80, then 100. No joy. Tried the ratcheting tie-down and 100 PSI. Still no luck. Unseated both beads, took one side off, rotated the tire 90 degrees, put tube back in. Still no joy. Finally, I took the tube out and replaced it. The tube is some kind of super heavy duty marked 300325. The Kenda 270 is more like a 3.50 tire, so I bought a tube indicated for 3.25 - 3.50, and, after several more tries, finally got the bead set. I think the moral of this story is to make sure the super-duty tubes are correctly sized, because they don't stretch very much no matter how many PSI you put in.

I am a little concerned about the suggestion to use Armor All to lube the tire to help set the bead, because I would think the tire would be more likely to slip on the rim while driving because Armor All keeps things slippery for a long time. Also, DRZ S models don't have rim locks, so I plan to stay away from permanently slippery stuff.

Anyway, didn't mean to go on so long. Thanks again for putting this together!
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Old 10-30-2006, 05:23 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remarksman
When putting the second bead of the new tire on, I usually start opposite the valve stem, and work around so that the part near the valve goes on last. I do it that way because it seems like the tire bead won't fit down in the "dish" with the valve stem going through the hole there.
The 2nd and 3rd photos in Step 6 where you are stepping on the tire to hold the bead down in the dish have you stepping, essentially, on the valve stem. Seems like a bad idea to me, but obviously it works for you.
I've had very bad luck with your method... but obviously, it works for you!

Around the base of the valve stem is a thicker part of the tube. I have seen that get trapped between the rim and bead (on the flat part facing the hub, not the outside part) with your method, which will result in an instant (or eventual) flat.

To clarify, I like to start at the valve stem, and ensure that the thick part surrounding the stem is up inside. Then, work the shortest route to the rimlock, and make sure the bead is inside that as well. In reality, it doesn't much matter whether you start with the Rimlock or Valve Stem, but one or the other and work the shortest route to whatever comes second. Then, you want to finish between them on the other side, because as you say, it can be tough to get the bead all the way in the dish where they are there to interfere.

Obviously, there's lots of ways to skin this cat- mine is only one... but I've had bad experience with the method you propose.

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Old 10-30-2006, 08:13 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remarksman
... Also, DRZ S models don't have rim locks, so I plan to stay away from permanently slippery stuff. ...
My KLX400SR (green version of the DRZ S) has rimlocks front and rear. I don't know if they were stock, or whether the holes were there in the rim and the previous owner added the rimlocks.

Next tire change, you might consider getting rimlocks. Make sure you at least static balance the wheel, though. The DRZ S has the valve stem and rimlocks close together, which is MUCH easier than having them opposite each other, like my former XR650L.
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