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Old 10-30-2006, 09:30 PM   #166
Yellow Pig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murgatroid42
My KLX400SR (green version of the DRZ S) has rimlocks front and rear. I don't know if they were stock, or whether the holes were there in the rim and the previous owner added the rimlocks.
The front rimlock was installed after I had a flat because the tire spun and tore the valvestem off.

The rim was predrilled for the rim lock and had a rubber plug in it from the factory.

FYI
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Old 10-30-2006, 10:10 PM   #167
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I used Slime when I did my tires and haven't had a flat. But I ride like a girl, mostly putting around town on a bike that is easier on tires than any you will see. (No power, no brakes, very lightweight) YMMV

Don't think you won't get a flat if you use it and be prepared for the slimey mess inside your tire if it dosen't work. Baja dust + trailside repair + slime = a lot bigger slimy gritty mess inside your tire than you would have otherwise. I doubt i'll use it again.

Also, don't bother with a final balance if you use it. Whenever you stop the balance will change, or maybe I used too much...

No help here, move along.
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RLK screwed with this post 10-30-2006 at 10:20 PM
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Old 10-31-2006, 07:30 AM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoundlightKnight
Baja dust + trailside repair + slime = a lot bigger slimy gritty mess inside your tire than you would have otherwise.
Regarding slime:
I ended up not using slime on our recent Baja Trip and didn't get a flat. inte said he used to always run slime but stopped doing so after getting a flat that he couldn't patch due to the mess the slime made all over the tube. Seems like running HD tubes and carrying a spare front tube for insurance is the best plan all around.

Regarding seating the bead:
I didn't worry about seating the bead on my tube-type tires (KTM450EXC, no rim locks). I noticed that neduro didn't even mention it in his "how-to" description on page 1, so I figured the bead would just work itself out on the road. Is this true, or am I setting myself up for torn valvestems or other problems 'down the road' ???
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:05 AM   #169
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Seating the bead- no worries. If it goes in easy, great. If not, it'll get there.

Slime: I don't like it, because among other things, it mungs up valve cores and pressure guages. There's a far superior product called "true goo" that is available at bike shops- doesn't seem to mess with the valve core as much, and does a better job sealing flats.
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Old 12-04-2006, 12:23 PM   #170
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Keep pinching tube

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neduro
Your primary task in installing a new tire is protecting the tube from damage. You want to make sure the tube is lying straight throughout the tire, so that it won’t chafe on itself and cause a flat. You want to make sure not to damage the tube with the end of your tire iron. You want to make sure that the valve stem is nicely aligned with the hole in the rim, so that it doesn’t rip the stem from the tube upon shifting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neduro
Step 6: The second side of the tire. You want to start with the portion of the tire immediately adjacent to the valve stem, so that the bead of the tire won’t trap the tube adjacent to the valve stem.
I followed this process [thanks!!!] plus looked at the video's of the Bridgestone guy at TransworldMotoCross (link). Actually found the videos pretty useful. Anyways, I did 3 tires to varying levels of success but on one I keep pinching the tube.

Can anyone elaborate on the starting from each side of the valve stem? I note in the videos he does a similar thing but starting each side of the rimlock.

The one I keep pinching has no rimlock (street wheel). 21" KTM wheel, Sahara tires, original Pirelli natural rubber tube. First time I don't think I correctly followed the advice about starting each side of valve stem, vampire pinch about 3" out from valve stem. Removed one bead only, pulled and patched tube. Inflated till it would just kink over my arm (tip from video). Reinstalled tube. Redid the process starting each side of the valve stem (bead buddy would be nice here, I used a 4th iron to hold the bead when I changed direction). 3 irons to work with makes the process really nice and easy.

I had the valve stem thru and centered before starting but found as I installed the second bead it would move a few degrees. This happened twice so I redid it twice, grrrr. Was getting pretty good at the changes. and found I required very little effort compared to before. In the end I pulled the valve stem 50% thru and installed the nut to hold it there to stop it from rotating and then put the second bead on. Aired the tire to 20psi but this AM it was flat. Found another vampire pinch flat about 90 degrees out from the rimlock.

I have a whole new tube but I need to figure out what I'm doing here before I waste more money poking holes thru rubber. I'm using two MP steel irons and one MP spoon iron and being careful to have the hooked ends only slightly over the rim to avoid poking the tube, or at least I think I am :-)

Any tips?
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Old 12-04-2006, 12:51 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit
Can anyone elaborate on the starting from each side of the valve stem? I note in the videos he does a similar thing[B] [U]but starting each side of the rimlock.

... Inflated till it would just kink over my arm (tip from video).
Couple of ideas.

Try inflating it a bit more, on the theory that more air will both hold it further out in the tire, and also make it more likely to squirm out from under your tire iron in the event you inadvertantly tick it again. You may have to work harder to keep the bead down in the seat.

Also, try to go as shallow as possible with the tire irons.

Regarding starting at the valve stem and working away, vs. the rimlock- my logic for starting at the valve stem was that it was the more delicate area, and I had more control as I was just getting started than later in the process. But experiment and see what works for you!

Regarding the valve stem getting worked around a little- I don't worry about a little movement. You can always reinstall the wheel before inflating the tire, and rock the bike against the brake to get the valve stem straight again...

I was changing the tire on a TT-R last fall and flatted the *$&%*#& thing 7 times the same way as you, so I know how frustrating it can be.
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Old 12-04-2006, 01:57 PM   #172
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All the punctures have been vampire (2 holes close together). How is this happening? Tube is getting stuck between the rim and the bead? I guess if this is the case I can see that more air would prevent it from folding around the tip of the iron. I don't think it's damage from the iron itself?

Only downside of more air is the thicker the tube and/or the more air makes it fun to get the stem thru the rim if you have a rimlock and start by installing the lock.
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Old 12-04-2006, 02:03 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit
All the punctures have been vampire (2 holes close together). How is this happening?
If I knew that, I wouldn't have done it so many times on the stupid TTR!

My guess is that the punctures are from the tube getting pinched between the iron and the rim, but it's only a guess. The two holes could come from each edge of the tire iron? Does that seem consistent with what you saw?
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Old 12-04-2006, 02:09 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit
All the punctures have been vampire (2 holes close together). How is this happening? ......
One possibility is that there is grit sandwiched in a fold in the tube and it gets rubbed into the tube....?
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Old 12-04-2006, 02:21 PM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit
All the punctures have been vampire (2 holes close together). How is this happening?
Check the inside of your rim for this guy -->
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Old 12-04-2006, 02:28 PM   #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen Slug
Check the inside of your rim for my girlfriend at the wrong time of the month -->

There, fixed.
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Old 12-04-2006, 04:16 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro
If I knew that, I wouldn't have done it so many times on the stupid TTR!

My guess is that the punctures are from the tube getting pinched between the iron and the rim, but it's only a guess. The two holes could come from each edge of the tire iron? Does that seem consistent with what you saw?
Ned, why is the TTR rim harder?
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Old 12-04-2006, 05:57 PM   #178
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tires..wheww

+ courage = further attempts
Previous attempts have resulted in poor results.
Ballz currently regrowing. Gonna get an old garbage rim and
cheap tubes and practice.

Thanx guys, this place rocks.

Tony
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Old 12-05-2006, 07:17 AM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murgatroid42
Ned, why is the TTR rim harder?
My guess is, insufficient preparatory pie.

Am I right Ned?
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Old 12-05-2006, 08:01 AM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit

I have a whole new tube but I need to figure out what I'm doing here before I waste more money poking holes thru rubber. I'm using two MP steel irons and one MP spoon iron and being careful to have the hooked ends only slightly over the rim to avoid poking the tube, or at least I think I am :-)

Any tips?


I have changed many, many tires and rarely have a problem. Changed a buddy's rear tire the other day and pinched two heavy duty tubes in a row. 'bout to pull my hair out.........stuff happens sometimes, guess I just got careless.
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