Ride For Peace Of Mind - MotoPsycho

[ElGringo]

Last year on a trip up to the Arctic I met a fellow rider from Ireland named Oisin. We stayed in touch, and one day he suggested we ride to the tip of South America. Make our way back north to Rio and ship our bikes to Ireland. From there travel east across Europe, Russia and Mongolia. Ride the road of bones to Magadan. Figure out some way to get us and our bikes out of Magadan and over to Seoul. Fly to Anchorage. Than finally make our way across Canada to New York.

The timing seems perfect for the trip. My company is in the decline with the economic slump, and probably wont pickup for at least another year. I still have to work everyday from the road, but I shouldn’t be too overwhelmed. Working from the bike worked really well for me last year as well.

Oisin was laid off from his job with a severance package he’s just itching to burn through. So he’s good to go.

We couldn’t come up with a clever title for the trip, so we just used my website’s name.

We have been slowly making our way south and will be soon entering Mexico. This is where our little story begins. We hope you enjoy it.

H

[ElGringo]

September 17, 2009

It's now T-1 day before entering Mexico. What seemed like endless preparation is finally coming to a close. The number of unresolved issues when we left L.A. was far greater than anticipated. What we thought would be really simple to handle on the road proved to be just the opposite. That in addition to both bikes having a melt down on the very first few days of the trip did not help. Thankfully we had Jeanette along for the first couple of weeks, and without her help, I think we’d remain stuck in the US for days. But now I can finally say, “Yes we are a go for launch! Tomorrow Mexico!”

So now it’s time to do a little catch up. After detouring to Phoenix to get our bikes fixed we stayed in the states for a few more days just to make sure both bikes were 100%.

After Phoenix we headed North through Flagstaff to Sunset Crater. We took the interstate and ran straight in to a storm. Now we’d been battling the heat for the last few days so a little rain would have felt good. So we didn’t put on any of our rain gear figuring that it would be a quick 5 minute shower. That would have felt good after so much heat. Of course the rain didn’t let up for over an hour, and we got soaked to the bone. Froze my ass off. Finally we made it to Sunset Crater and the rain subsided

Sunset Crater and the attached Wupatki National Monument is where parts of “Easy Rider” were filmed. The weather was bad so we continued on to the ruins in Wuptaki, and hung out there for the rest of the day.













Oisin bet me that I couldn’t take a pic of myself with my DSLR camera.









Afterwards we headed north to Paige to find a room, but the whole town was booked for Labor Day weekend. We continued on and found a cool cowboy hotel in Big Water. I hung out all night around the fire pit talking with the hosts and some traveling Germans on hogs. I love the little mom and pop hotels as opposed to the big corporate places. Much friendlier. I didn’t get any pics of the hotel, but a ton of video. Need to start carrying both my DSLR and video camera at the same time.

Than we continued on through Zion..





Finally we made it to Panguitch. I once heard that when you’ve got nothing positive to stay, it’s best just to keep your mouth shut. I’m playing that card when it comes to Panguitch.

The next morning we headed toward Ely and passed through Great Basin National Park. There is a nice twisty road to the top, but there is nothing at the end of the road. I guess you’re supposed to walk a bit to see the Bristle Cone trees. We didn’t of course, the lazy bastards we are.



End of the road.



Than it was on to Ely. We wanted to make it all the way to Wendover that day, but those BMW seats changed that plan pretty quick.

The next day it was on to Wendover and the Bonneville Salt Flats.



I’ve never been there before and it was a pretty cool place. We hung out there until the sun went down and filmed each other doing speed runs on the salt flat.







We stayed in Wendover in a nasty Hotel Casino. In the morning, we went back out to the Salt Flats to play some more.



We cleaned the bikes with pressure washers each time we went out on the salt. The salt got in to everything. I cleaned out a bunch of it from under the bike’s seat. You just know that salt still lurks in some bike crevice slowly eating away at the electronics. It won’t affect anything today, but a year from now when we’re in some remote location; the salt corrosion will surely shut us down.

The next day we just did miles. We rode south and made it as far as Salina. Didn’t stop anywhere or check out anything. Did eat at Subway for the millionth time. The stress from our lack of preparation for this trip was taking its toll though.

We continued south through Capital Reef National Park. Now this is a really cool place. We spent a lot of time here.















Than it was through Lake Powell









We spent the night in Mexican Hat, and had a very good but insanely expensive dinner at the Swinging Grill. It was the only place in town for food so I guess they could charge what ever they wanted. I liked the place.

Monument Valley was on the agenda for the next day.







Monument Valley is on an Indian reservation, and you are quickly struck by the number of starving dogs that are roaming around. We gave food and water to two of them. The second one had uncontrollable shakes. It was probably on its last leg, but people walked by it with out a care. Very sad.

We spent the night in Flagstaff and ate at this little Mexican dive. The place had the most excellent food and at just a fraction of the price from the previous night. It was some good eaten.

Than it was back to Phoenix to get the bikes serviced and handle the final preparations for the trip down south. Jeanette left us on the first morning and headed back to LA as well. Oisin’s friend Andy gave us a hand with our prep work, and shuttled us around Phoenix. In all we spent three nights in Phoenix.

We got to give a shout out to the people at Victory BMW in Phoenix. What a great group of people. Really top notch. Highly recommend them.

Andy rode with us down to Tombstone. On the way, we stopped at the Pima Air and Space Museum. What a great place. They had every conceivable type of aircraft dating all the back to World War II. You could go right up to them and touch them. Just not go inside.







































Wish we could have stayed there longer, but we had to make it to Boot Hill Cemetery in Tombstone before sunset. The cemetery itself was a bit of a disappointment. They restored it and completely changed the place from how it looked originally.







I believe in preserving a historical place, but not changing it in to what some moron believes might cater better to the tourists. It was pretty lame.

We went in to town and had some brews and buffalo burgers. Tombstone is definitely a tourist trap. However, despite that, it is still pretty cool to go in to the old bars and cat houses.

So tomorrow we head out in to Mexico. Got some butterflies in my stomach. Can’t believe this trip is finally getting under way. I keep going over in my head, what we might have forgotten and what hasn’t been handled. Once we’re over the border, fixes won’t be nearly as easy. Hell, my phone won't even work in Mexico for another month. But I’m pretty confident we finally got it all sorted.

So tomorrow it begins. I think I'm going to shave just for the occasion.

H

[Gtano]

Hey guys. Good to see you around here. I will keep an eye on you.

Please let me know if you need anything. Safe travels!!!

[ElGringo]

Originally Posted by Gtano

Hey guys. Good to see you around here. I will keep an eye on you.

Please let me know if you need anything. Safe travels!!!

Thanks Gtano. Your advice for Tombstone was right on the mark. Take it easy.

H

[ElGringo]

September 18, 2009

Well today was the big day. The day we should have made it in to Mexico. Everything seemed right. Woke up early this morning and was all set to go. But instead we find ourselves still in the USA roughly 45 miles from the border. Our attempt to enter Mexico rebuffed.

So close yet so far.



The process of going through customs was pretty straight forward and only took about 45 minutes. The people in the Douglas customs office were the best. Friendly and helpful. They even accepted the photocopies we made of our important documents. So what could have possibly have gone wrong? Well it seems the big fella failed to file the export papers for his bike last year so the Mexican government believes his other bike (now in Ireland) is still in Mexico and will not allow him to import another.

So while Oisin was trying to get the bike issue sorted, I hung out in the insanely hot customs parking lot for a few hours. Today I did a lot of waiting. The kind of waiting where a minute seems like an hour. I spoke with some of the people going through the customs area, but mainly I was bored out of my mind. Nothing like hanging out in the no mans land between borders. But shit happens and we already knew that the borders would be the toughest part of the trip. What can you do?

Well you can go visit a whorehouse for one thing. Here are some pics of the brothel we visited in Tombstone last night:





















Oh baby!









Tomorrow we try again.

H

[ElGringo]

September 19, 2009

The plan was to simply try to just go through the border and make it passed a customs check point roughly 20 kms down the road in to Mexico. If we could do that, Oisin thinks he’ll be in the clear for the rest of Mexico despite not having the proper paperwork. The border itself went pretty smoothly. On the American side they had a few questions about where we’re going and if we’re packin. The typical stuff. On the Mexican side though, I got searched. And than we were in.

At the customs check point down the road we had a decision to make. We could go in to the office there and try to get Oisin’s paperwork straightened out or just try to go through without it. We decided on the latter. That seems to be a good call, because the customs guy just waived us through. No questions. No search. The plan now is to just act dumb if the bike permit issue ever comes up again.

So we made it in. Finally! From here we took the road straight south to Hermosillo to get as much distance between us and the border as possible.

I’ve been to Baja a bunch of times, but this is my fist visit to mainland Mexico. Completely beyond my expectations so far. I was expecting little towns, homes, and dirt roads blanketing the landscape. Instead it was miles and miles of nothing. Completely untouched pristine wilderness for as far as the eye could see. And this was from a main road too.

Internet is horrible here. It cuts on and off constantly so trying to upload any pics is going to be tricky.

H

[wdeTA]

Helmar,

I'm the Transalp rider you crossed paths with several times in Alaska back in 08.

I really enjoyed your posts from that trip. The reports and photos were so much better than mine I never even bothered to post mine here. I'm really looking forward to following along with you on this trip since it's still in my future to do list and I'm sure your pics and reports will be at least as good as the previous ones. I've got both this thread and your blog bookmarked.

If you are still in contact with (or can provide me contact information for) the Gil family, I have a few photos I took in Anchorage they might be interested in.

http://daleeva.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...00524803_TpFgf

Have a great trip.

[ElGringo]

Originally Posted by wdeTA

Helmar,

I'm the Transalp rider you crossed paths with several times in Alaska back in 08.

I really enjoyed your posts from that trip. The reports and photos were so much better than mine I never even bothered to post mine here. I'm really looking forward to following along with you on this trip since it's still in my future to do list and I'm sure your pics and reports will be at least as good as the previous ones. I've got both this thread and your blog bookmarked.

If you are still in contact with (or can provide me contact information for) the Gil family, I have a few photos I took in Anchorage they might be interested in.

http://daleeva.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...00524803_TpFgf

Have a great trip.

Hi Dale, of course I remember you and that fine Transalp of yours. Good to hear from you. I got the Gil family info somewhere. Once I find it, Ill pm you with it.

Thanks and take care.

H

[ElGringo]

September 20, 2009

Today we headed east toward Copper Canyon. We knew that it was going to be a long haul so we got up early and hit the road. The road today was a rider’s dream. It started off straight, but than began to wind through the mountains. Simply gorgeous pristine wilderness. The road did pass through a few small towns but generally remained completely isolated. The majority of it had no power lines, no shacks, no garbage. I loved it.

























We did get stopped at a military check point and I got searched again. The guards were really friendly but didn’t like the camera mounted to the front of the bike. I showed them that it wasn’t on. Fortunatly it turns itself off 30 seconds after I turn off the bike.

In the US, riders that pass you by usually give you a quick wave. In Mexico, everybody waves to you. From passing cars, and from the side of the road. One little girl even ran along the side of me for a bit. These are the friendliest people.

The long road did take its toll on us though. As much fun as twisties are, three hundred miles of them can wear you out. We found a hotel after the sun went down in Cuauhtemoc. After some quick grub and a few cold ones, I hit the sack completely beat.

H

[Colemanfu]

I like it. A side of Mex I have never seen or thought of. Good naritive. You guys stick tight down there. Remember - love and trust.
Thanks for taking us along.
Have a safe trip.

CMF

[ElGringo]

September 21, 2009

After yesterday’s long ride we only had to do a quick 100 miles to get to Creel. Nice pleasant day, cool weather, beautiful scenery, and cops everywhere. We passed one convoy of Federalis. They wore black ski masks and were armed to the teeth. They stood in the back of pickups with their G3 machine guns resting on the roll bars aimed right at on coming traffic. It’s a bit of a disconcerting feeling having a rifle like that aimed at you. I couldn’t help think that all it would take is one bump in the road and the dude accidentally pulls the trigger blasting me off my bike. Hopefully they have the safety on.

We stopped at one of the many little shrines that line the roads. Mexico is very catholic and they seem to love the Virgin Mary.





Creel and the surrounding area has a large number of indigenous people. The depth of their poverty just boggles the mind. Little kids try to sell homemade trinkets to everyone. Their dirty little faces and tattered clothes, your heart just goes out to them. It really makes one take stock in one’s own life. My god, you look at the shit we complain about on a daily basis, while these people are just trying to put food on the table. Talk about getting some perspective.

We checked in to a hotel and than headed over to Copper Canyon to check it out. No doubt it’s an impressive sight. However, me thinks that the comparisons that are made to the Grand Canyon are a bit exaggerated.





















H

[ElGringo]

Originally Posted by Colemanfu

I like it. A side of Mex I have never seen or thought of. Good naritive. You guys stick tight down there. Remember - love and trust.
Thanks for taking us along.
Have a safe trip.

CMF

Thanks CMF. Glad you are enjoying the report.

Take it easy.

H

[E-Bum]

Good read. Hope to do a voyage down to Tierra del Fuego one day myself.

[ElGringo]

September 22, 2009

Still in Creel and just came across this:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worl...in-Mexico.html

Excerpt:

August 19, 2009

The deaths followed two mass killings at the weekend: 21 people, including 14 attending a family gathering in the western Chihuahua tourist town of Creel, were slain on Saturday night while on Sunday, nine were killed in Ciudad Juarez.

It was described as the worst weekend of violence in the area all year.
The brutal tit-for-tat attacks have escalated throughout the country since Mexican president Felipe Calderon launched a military crackdown on drug trafficking, deploying more than 36,000 soldiers since early 2007.

The Creel shooting, blamed on drug hit men, saw masked assassins armed with AK47 rifles open fire on family members as they left the town's dance hall. The hail of bullets claimed the lives of a one-year-old infant as well as three teenagers and a university professor.

"They can kill each other, but to shoot dead innocent people, young students, professors ... it is not possible," one 60-year-old resident told Chihuahua paper El Diario.

The shooting was attributed to a drug gang feud and prompted the government to despatch 160 federal police and soldiers to the area.


Had no idea we were still in the drug war hot spot. Last night we noticed a huge police presence on the streets. Hotels were heavily guarded as well. Otherwise all seemed fine.

Here is some video of us passing through an army check point. The camera was mounted on Oisin's head, and Im the rider in front with the yellow helmet.




H

[ElGringo]

September 22, 2009

Today’s mission was to simply ride from Creel to Hidalgo Del Parral. We figured it would be quick jaunt so we took our time in the morning. Packed up and ready to leave, Oisin noticed he had a flat. His rear tire took a Philips head screw. So we unpacked and tended to the mending. Pretty simple task. It only took about 20 minutes and a lot of cursing.

Back on the road, we were greeted with some of the best riding conditions ever. It wasn’t too hot, nice curvy road, and picturesque scenery. I was thinking to myself how it couldn’t get any better, when a fucking African biting beetle lodged itself in my helmet right next to my right eye.

The fucking bugger started stinging me non-stop. Imagine someone ramming a needle into the sided of your head over and over again. It was unbearable. With gloves on there was no way to dislodge the devil. The concept of a road shoulder is completely foreign to Mexico, so I had no choice to just pull to the side and stop as quickly as possible in the road. There was just no where else to go. Of course this happened to be at the end of a turn and Oisin who was right behind me almost rear ended me. After him a truck that was racing us had to swerve as well. It was a pretty ugly situation. Oisin tracked back and signaled ahead of the turn for others to slow down and the situation was made safe.

What the hell do you do in this situation? The meanest nastiest bug is stuck right up against the side of you eye stinging the shit out of you, and you are completely helpless to do anything about it until you stop and get the helmet off. Perhaps I should have sucked up the pain and kept riding until I found a good place to stop which could have been many miles down the road. I believe this was the most dangerous situation I have ever been in on a bike.

Back to the story… with the bike stopped (thank you ABS) and almost dropping it in the process, I ripped off my goggles breaking them in two. Than what seemed to be forever, I got the damn helmet off. Of course the bugger flew away unscathed, and I had the worst pain in the side of my head imaginable.

Oisin has some great bug bite ointment and that helped a bit. No red swelling, but insanely tender to the touch. My head throbbed the rest of the day after that.



Other than that bug bite, the day was pretty much perfect. We went through another military check point, and they only searched one pannier this time. As we approached Parral, there was an electrical storm in the distance. Made for a great ride.

Took a ton of video today, and just a few pics:















H