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Old 09-13-2014, 11:55 AM   #1
Bernie Kap OP
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Advice on KLR doohickey upgrade

This week I am going to upgrade the doo hickey on my 2011 650 KLR. The bike has 20k miles on it. I am going to install the torsion spring. I got all the parts and tools needed to do the job from Eagle Mike. I watched several videos on you-tube and have a Clymer manual on hand. This my first time doing this project. Does anyone have any advice on what is the most difficult part of the job and where to be careful? Thanks.
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Old Yesterday, 07:20 AM   #2
countryrebel
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Just pay attention to where everything is and watch the videos as you go. I did mine last week and noticed my engine runs smoother and quieter.
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Old Yesterday, 07:30 AM   #3
eddie bolted
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Watch the keyway when you pull the flywheel off.
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Old Yesterday, 07:58 AM   #4
wbbnm
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I did it twice. The second time was to put the torsion spring on.

One hard part was getting the flywheel back on. Be sure to have the key on top and put some grease on it. Both times I just kept trying and it finally went on. I don't know what I did different when it worked. Once when it went the magnetic force pinched my fingers a little.

Another minor problem area is getting the torsion spring inserted. I filed a groove in a flat screwdriver blade. This worked well and is useful in lots of similar situations. Others recommend angle needle nose pliers.

Don't screw up the spacers on the starter gears.
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Old Yesterday, 08:17 AM   #5
VACommuter
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Where you at? We have a tech day today.

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Old Yesterday, 08:42 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbbnm View Post

One hard part was getting the flywheel back on. Be sure to have the key on top and put some grease on it. Both times I just kept trying and it finally went on. I don't know what I did different when it worked.

Old trick, take a center punch and peen the side of the woodruff key, then it's a tap fit into the slot and it won't fall out ever again.

OP, I know of a techday in Santa Rosa, California at the end of the month if you're from these parts. It's a lot more fun to work with some hecklers looking over your shoulder.
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Old Yesterday, 08:57 AM   #7
eddie bolted
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbbnm View Post
I did it twice. The second time was to put the torsion spring on.

One hard part was getting the flywheel back on. Be sure to have the key on top and put some grease on it. Both times I just kept trying and it finally went on. I don't know what I did different when it worked. Once when it went the magnetic force pinched my fingers a little.

Another minor problem area is getting the torsion spring inserted. I filed a groove in a flat screwdriver blade. This worked well and is useful in lots of similar situations. Others recommend angle needle nose pliers.

Don't screw up the spacers on the starter gears.

If you turn the flywheel back and forth it will go right on,it helps align the starter gear behind the flywheel or something like that.
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Old Yesterday, 10:21 AM   #8
Beezer
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like Larryboy said.... couple punch marks to tighten the fit of the key. I also paint the end yellow so I can see it after the rotor is back on. more than a few have been knocked out during installation. the bike will run fine for a while & then the rotor slips & the ignition timing is off
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Old Yesterday, 10:26 AM   #9
eddie bolted
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like Larryboy said.... couple punch marks to tighten the fit of the key. I also paint the end yellow so I can see it after the rotor is back on. more than a few have been knocked out during installation. the bike will run fine for a while & then the rotor slips & the ignition timing is off
I thought i lost mine when i took it apart, luckly it was stuck to the flywheel.
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Old Yesterday, 11:32 AM   #10
Bernie Kap OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Old trick, take a center punch and peen the side of the woodruff key, then it's a tap fit into the slot and it won't fall out ever again.

OP, I know of a techday in Santa Rosa, California at the end of the month if you're from these parts. It's a lot more fun to work with some hecklers looking over your shoulder.
I don't quite understand the part about peening the side of the key. Does it mean like putting a gauge on the surface of the woodrift key, so that it is a snug fit and won't move. When I drill the hole for the torsion spring can I fit the spring to see exactly where the hole should be. I understand the hole is to go at the 7 o'clock position. I am using Happy Trails directions and other videos for this process. Thanks.
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Old Yesterday, 02:52 PM   #11
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernie Kap View Post
I understand the hole is to go at the 7 o'clock position.
7:00 might involve more than enough "torsion." but . . . you can always drill another hole at a more convenient location, if 7:00 is in the "too hard" range.
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Old Yesterday, 04:40 PM   #12
eddie bolted
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernie Kap View Post
I don't quite understand the part about peening the side of the key. Does it mean like putting a gauge on the surface of the woodrift key, so that it is a snug fit and won't move. When I drill the hole for the torsion spring can I fit the spring to see exactly where the hole should be. I understand the hole is to go at the 7 o'clock position. I am using Happy Trails directions and other videos for this process. Thanks.
No, you have to(for lack of a better word)wind the spring to get it in the hole you drilled.
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