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Old 02-02-2014, 01:49 AM   #3931
WILL_S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bj4x4 View Post
Hi,
Im currently looking at a te630 with 20,000km on it. Is this getting pretty high for a te630? What sort of kms would i expect to get out of the te630 engine? Im currently tossing up between a Very well setup te610 And a te630 with a safari tank and racks and not much else. The te610 is cheaper though its about 2 days drive there and back.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/buder...610/1036558251

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/lake-...sky/1037292959
The 610 for sale is poppy's old bike.I got sick of waiting for him to sell it and brought a 630.IMHO it's a better buy than the 630 you are looking at.
Plenty of info on poppy 610 below in the oz 610/630 thread
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=poppy&page=60

And the new owner's ride report

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...0#post22074690
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Old 02-02-2014, 06:43 AM   #3932
DYNOBOB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bj4x4 View Post
Hi,
Im currently looking at a te630 with 20,000km on it. Is this getting pretty high for a te630? What sort of kms would i expect to get out of the te630 engine? Im currently tossing up between a Very well setup te610 And a te630 with a safari tank and racks and not much else. The te610 is cheaper though its about 2 days drive there and back.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/buder...610/1036558251

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/lake-...sky/1037292959

That's a tough call. I'd inquire about the condition of the counter shaft splines on both bikes and if they've had cam chain service. The 630 doesn't show racks that I can see? If you haven't already, go on CafeHusky and read some of the hi-mileage threads. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/at-...want-to.39163/


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Old 02-02-2014, 07:44 AM   #3933
browneye
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I would take a 630 over a 610 hands down. There were a lot of refinements, such as the hydraulic clutch, updated valvetrain.

12km is 7200 miles. Mine has 6K miles and runs and looks like new - wouldn't bother me at all. At 10-12K miles the clutch spring cups should be looked at or replaced. Otherwise you can expect lots and lots of miles to go. If it had 25K miles then I'd be suspicious. Check the screens for debris, check valves. Make sure the rear sprocket bolts are locktited and they are tight. Change the fork oil, grease the stemhead bearings.

I personally don't care for the safari tank. It's ugly, bulbous, and heavy, although popular for the guys that really need extended range. I'll take my kolpin tank on the cargo rack when needed. I've used the fuel out of it about 6 times in almost 3 years on four different trips. When I need it I take it, otherwise the stocker is good for about 120 miles. hopefully it comes with the stocker as well. It's really a shame IMS didn't make a tank for us, something in the 5gl range.


I would take this one instead: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/south...630/1037317208
4500KM. Was on the same ad page as the other 630. Looks like new.
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Old 02-02-2014, 08:21 AM   #3934
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The 630 has 12,000 miles (19,000km)



Based on what SimpleOne (and Ken Web) just found w/ his, I'd definitely look as cs splines.



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Old 02-02-2014, 11:58 AM   #3935
jasonmt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browneye View Post
On the tuner, some of the riders on cafehusky have the settings at zero, or same as factory, or maybe just one of the five changed. So I couldn't see spending $250 on something that didn't change anything.

When you say 'out of the box settings' does that mean they put some adjustments in compared to stock? Or is that 'same as stock'?

What I notice is the power just kind of tapers off over about 5800rpm, and it will ping sometimes, so I think it's lean up high. I'm thinking it should pull harder all the way to redline, or pretty close. I'm running de-catted and gutted stock cans. No issue with flow, that's for sure. Otherwise stock, just the PU, and airbox maze out. I get about 50mpg.

Yes, the seat concepts seat is only wider at the back for when you sit down. Mine got put on as new and can't imagine the bike being any other way.
The JD Tuner for the TE630 is available for under $200 if you do some shopping and it comes "pre-programmed" with some recommended settings. My bike pulls hard to redline without a hiccup but as I have mine mounted where it is easy to adjust on the fly I am not sure what exactly my settings are at.






That being said I am in the process of switching to a PC5 (Motomummy has them for $265).
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Old 02-02-2014, 08:17 PM   #3936
Pcfly
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBullet View Post
Yep it is really that easy. Do it first and you'll probably find no reason to buy a JD tuner or PC-5. Both of those are add-ons to stock ECU so something else possible to go wrong also. Early back in iBeat posts the numbers posted were very low and most didn't bring dramatic change. Only with Dynobob's dyno results did the CO numbers jump to 110/110/120 for max power. Not sure if anyone prior actually dyno'd or just seat of the pants. Even George at Uptite only recommended 104/106/110 or something in that range. I still need to fine tune my settings with a dyno but I'm pretty close. See Dynobob's thread at CafeHusky for details.

I was content with my bike's power before but it didn't have the high end punch like you mentioned. Now it pulls strong all the way to redline. Previously I could get mine to ping under certain circumstances also. If I was cruising 70-75mph and going uphill or standing on the pegs causing drag and hit the throttle it would sometimes ping. Now under exact circumstances it now longer does that and will accelerate strong to near triple digits without having to downshift first.

LAB2LV was a great ride and definitely will do it again some year. Next time I want to do all the hard way options. This time I only did half of them as my travel and riding buddy DNF'd last year and wanted to ensure this year he finished the entire ride and wasnt taking any chances. I did break away from him for some sections the last time being the hard way up into Red Rock but turned around half way into the technical and came back down as I was with a heavy BMW 650 Dakar that wasn't up to the task. Honestly at that point I was probably looking for an excuse to bail also as was up to my eyeballs with the ice and snow and didn't want to slide off the cliff only 20 miles from the finish.

Prior to LAB2LV we rode two days in AZ and then parked our haul rig in LV and rode the bikes via dirt to Barstow before switching onto pavement at darkness to ride into OC the day before Thanksgiving. That was a cold night ride.

_
I don't suppose there are any of you in the Northern California/SF Bay Area that might have access or could help me with an iBeat reset for my 630.
Maybe anyone of you going to the Death Valley Noons ride perhaps?
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Old 02-03-2014, 12:45 AM   #3937
Simple_One
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bj4x4 View Post
Hi,
Im currently looking at a te630 with 20,000km on it. Is this getting pretty high for a te630? What sort of kms would i expect to get out of the te630 engine? Im currently tossing up between a Very well setup te610 And a te630 with a safari tank and racks and not much else. The te610 is cheaper though its about 2 days drive there and back.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/buder...610/1036558251

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/lake-...sky/1037292959

Like you, I came from a DRZ, don't have enough saddle time to tell you how the Husky compares as yet. A short test ride suggested it was similar in performance to a fairly modded DRZ400SM, but with much smoother throttle response and better low end torque.

I paid the asking price for this bike:
http://www.bikesales.com.au/private/...=0&pss=Premium

It's not perfect, but I wasn't budgeting on it being perfect either. I'm going to have to replace the counter shaft due to spline wear. I've ordered a 45t Kush sprocket (~$110 shipped) in the hope of warding off future counter shaft wear, but a Rad Mfg cush hub will set you back $550 plus shipping if you go that path instead. A few of the bearings were below average (wheel and swingarm) and the lower head bearings were buggered, so it's cost me $237.10 in bearings so far for front & rear wheels, steering head, swing arm (from R&D Husqvarna in Sydney) and I'll install them myself. I've order Indy Unlimited's (on here) clutch cup washers for the clutch mod (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=22671). I've sent the subframe off to get a small crack repaired and have weld in gussets added as suggested on Cafe Husky, that will be about ~$150-$200 with the subframe removed off the bike and just given to the bloke for gusset fabrication and welding.

I haven't pulled the linkage bearings yet, but they might be an additional cost.
The counter shaft I haven't priced yet, but I'm hoping for $750, maybe under a thousand in parts and labour if I take the engine to someone (already removed from the bike frame).
Transport from Melb to Syd cost me ~$300 with Motomovers.
Rego and blue slip will be about $600 i reckon.

I'll see what sort of state the engine is in once it gets split, hoping to get it out tonight and down to the mechanic by Wed. This bike has ~15,400km's on it, mostly longer dual sport km's from what I understand. It was never run with a Kush Sprocket or cush hub, which is part of what has hurt the coutner shaft I would guess.

Another good forum (not that ADVRider isn't great!):
http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/610-630.70/
TE630 buying advice:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te6...e.39244/page-2
Some stuff about the bike I have bought and its repairs etc:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te6...houghts.39383/
Known problems on the TE630:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/doc...k-areas.30149/

I've also got some other parts on the way, including an iBeat cable.
jtemple on Cafe Husky can provide you with a bunch of TE630 related goodies including manuals, parts catalogues, iBeat (etc.) all free of charge.

Cheers,

Kris

Simple_One screwed with this post 02-03-2014 at 01:04 AM
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:08 AM   #3938
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Also some other bits in the Oz TE thread:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...69990&posted=1

Good luck with the purchase!
Despite the extra costs involved with my bike, it's still going to come in it far lass than a KTM 690 of more kilometers and similar model year. A quite a bit less than a Husaberg FE570 (though frankly I still lust after one of those for reasons unknown, I'll call it love at first sight!)
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:03 PM   #3939
bj4x4
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Thanks for the replies. I was actually looking at the same bike but looks like you got in before me. I gave the guy a ring about the the 630 I listed above and he said it had been using a fair bit of oil.. so I guess that ones off the list haha.
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:52 AM   #3940
Thumperama
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Originally Posted by Simple_One View Post
And quite a bit less than a Husaberg FE570 (though frankly I still lust after one of those for reasons unknown, I'll call it love at first sight!)
I had the same urges regarding a Husaberg FE570 and ended up having to scratch that itch before all the good ones were gone. If you get the opportunity, they are a fine, fine motorcycle.
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Old 02-05-2014, 12:09 AM   #3941
Simple_One
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So ball park pricing for the counter shaft is:
A full days labour (even with the engine already out of the bike, add another half day it needs to come out and go back in) so about 10hrs = ~$900 AUD
Counter shaft = $165 AUD
Then are the other extra direct expenses like seals and gaskets that need replacing.

Then there is everything else you might want to do whilst the block is split like checking gearbox selector forks, 2nd gear, bearings, piston, rings, bearings etc.
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:07 AM   #3942
WILL_S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simple_One View Post
So ball park pricing for the counter shaft is:
A full days labour (even with the engine already out of the bike, add another half day it needs to come out and go back in) so about 10hrs = ~$900 AUD
Counter shaft = $165 AUD
Then are the other extra direct expenses like seals and gaskets that need replacing.

Then there is everything else you might want to do whilst the block is split like checking gearbox selector forks, 2nd gear, bearings, piston, rings, bearings etc.
I know it might seem daunting but it might be time to get familar with the internals yourself.At least pulling the motor out shouldn't be to bad.
Luckily you got the bike cheap and well set up.Even with a complete rebuild and going over it will still work out a bargain.The added bonus is all the downfalls will have been addressed and should no longer resurface.
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Old 02-05-2014, 04:14 AM   #3943
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Will, your spot on mate, that's exactly how I'm looking at it. I've stripped the bike right back now, just a frame and a wiring loom left on the bike, so not much of a bike actually. Every bearing is going to get replaced now, including the shock linkage bearings which also turned out to be pretty stuffed. I've got the engine out and I've ordered a case separator so a bit of this and a bit of this

Never opened a bike engine up before, other than taking off a clutch cover once, but with the shop manual, some time and some tools, I shouldn't go to far wrong. I've got a good local bike mechanic down the road anyway, so if I end up a bit up the creek, I'll just take it to him for further surgery!

I've actually quite enjoyed my little bonding session with the bike, getting to know all of it's little secrets and intricacies, what makes it tick and all that good stuff, and I suppose I reckon I can manage a bit more of that. But at the same time, a bloke is always hoping for fourth base and the chance to give her a good hard ride; so I live in hope that it will happen eventually!
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Old 02-05-2014, 05:40 AM   #3944
DYNOBOB
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There's a lot of value to knowing your bike this well.....and if you're gonna do it, the 630 is a worthy platform.



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Old 02-06-2014, 05:12 AM   #3945
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While I'm mucking around in the engine, is it worth fitting a manual cam chain tensioner to the 630, or is the stock one pretty good?

Similarly, is there anything else I should be looking at or replacing at ~15-20k km's mark?
(I'm thinking gaskets obviously, but what about seals, clutch bushings, selector forks etc?)
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