Husqvarna TE630

[Fast1]

Originally Posted by xymotic

I've been in both of these situations. The clutch lockout... R U Kidding? Pull the cables, short them manually. Not exactly a difficult fix.

.

that is all fine and dandy but the issue was not determined until a week after the event because the rubber boot near the clutch (hydro no cable like the 610) was covering the problem area. Plus we were riding in an all day rain storm at 40 to 50 degree which did not provide optimum elements for analysis trailside.

It required testing many electrical circuits with a mulitmeter to determine the source of the problem at home which was not possible during the ride. Eventually I determined that when my bike was slid under a deadfall the individual that pulled it through wrapped his had around the clutch lead and actually pulled the entire sensor partially out of the threads. The wires were not broken but rather the pressure tab was not pushing in far enough to complete the circuit. This was not visible by a visual ilnspection.


To summarize again I'm identifying the benefits of a kicker. But more importantly since this topic got off track and that is why none of you smart guys have called George yet to find out really why a kicker won't work on the TE630... We are all waiting for the results of that call.. and we need more than George says..

[xymotic]

Originally Posted by Fast55

that is all fine and dandy but the issue was not determined until a week after the event because the rubber boot near the clutch (hydro no cable like the 610) was covering the problem area. Plus we were riding in an all day rain storm at 40 to 50 degree which did not provide optimum elements for analysis trailside.

It required testing many electrical circuits with a mulitmeter to determine the source of the problem at home which was not possible during the ride.


To summarize again I'm identifying the benefits of a kicker. But more importantly since this topic got off track and that is why none of you smart guys have called George yet to find out really why a kicker won't work on the TE630... We are all waiting for the results of that call.. and we need more than George says.. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...hp?p=14772802#

That's fine and Dandy too, but I submit to you that your tail-side testing is crap. It "required" many tests at home, only because you did not have the knowledge of the bike to test the most common, most likely problem first. Your comment that the 610 does not have the EXACT same switch reveals a little ignorance too.

Last week when my bike wouldn't start on the trail, that rubber boot was the FIRST thing I checked. then I checked it (with a meter that I CARRY) and determined there was power through the circuit. Then I took apart the start button to check it's continuity and discovered an actual broken connection.

Total time out was like maybe 20 min, (including beer) and I rode it out.

I'm done with you though, your attitude is pretty crap as well. you keep making "fine and dandy" comments like "more than George says" that are just snotty and disrespectful of the man. And also quite ignorant of what I have said repeatedly, it has been TRIED. Somebody, who by the way has way more, way deeper contacts at Husqvarna than you do, has actually bought the parts, installed them and TRIED to make it work.

You're also calling people here on the board trying to have a discussion with you names, etc. Good luck with getting Husqvarna to explain to you why it won't work. They do not provide a Kick, so I'm sure they will bend over backwards to explain their rational for it.

[Stroker Ace]

His number is....714-540-2920, Go for it.....

[xymotic]

Originally Posted by Stroker Ace

His number is....714-540-2920, Go for it.....

Won't work, he needs more than George Says remember? He wants to hear it from a 24 yr old national sales rep that worked for BMW a month ago.

[Stroker Ace]

Yeah.... you're right, I already explained word for word "what George told me" He would make money installing kickstarters for everybody, so if says not to waste my money, that's good enough for me....

NOW HAVE A MERRY MERRY CHRISTMAS DAMMIT!!!!!!!!

[Fast1]

Originally Posted by xymotic

That's fine and Dandy too, but I submit to you that your tail-side testing is crap. It "required" many tests at home, only because you did not have the knowledge of the bike to test the most common, most likely problem first. Your comment that the 610 does not have the EXACT same switch reveals a little ignorance too.

Last week when my bike wouldn't start on the trail, that rubber boot was the FIRST thing I checked. then I checked it (with a meter that I CARRY) and determined there was power through the circuit entire circuit. Then I took apart the start button to check it's continuity and discovered an actual broken connection.

Total time out was like maybe 20 min, (including beer) and I rode it out.

As I explained a multi meter would not have identified the problem trailside nor did it at home. Visual inspection trailside offer no evidence of an issue. I was only able to discover the problem after entire removal of the sensor. You and your assumptions are gettng you know where quick.

And let me ask you how you will make 12 other rides stand by your side and wait for you to thoroughly test your bike in 45 degree temps with solid pelting rain knowing they have another 200 miles to ride that day? Not going to happen. Seems much easier to just use a kicker and get it going immediatly.

The 610 does not have the same clutch or clutch sensor bracket as I'm sure you are aware.


Now since you are smart why is it that the kicker will not work on the 630? Enough of your BS about other issues that you only miss-construe to fill your inaccurate assumptions.

[Fast1]

And which one of you guys knows who sent this pm to me last year?

Originally Posted by Team_Husqvarna

Hi Mike,
nice to hear from you so soon and sorry for my delay.
Thanks for providing your email, from next time on I'll write you to that address.
During this week I'll write you again.
Waiting forward to cooperate.

Giulio

[xymotic]

Pulling the wires and bypassing the sensor was a 5 second fix that WOULD have got you going. And that is IDENTICAL on the 610 and many other bikes. There is NO need to try and test the sensor in the field.

you join the wires, if that doesn't work you test the circuit itself. You said you tested "many" circuits, so you started in the wrong place and chased your tail.

The 610/630 won't kick start, because GEORGE SAYS SO

Originally Posted by Fast55

As I explained a multi meter would not have identified the problem trailside nor did it at home. Visual inspection trailside offer no evidence of an issue. I was only able to discover the problem after entire removal of the sensor. You and your assumptions are gettng you know where quick.

And let me ask you how you will make 12 other rides stand by your side and wait for you to thoroughly test your bike in 45 degree temps with solid pelting rain knowing they have another 200 miles to ride that day? Not going to happen. Seems much easier to just use a kicker and get it going immediatly.

The 610 does not have the same clutch or clutch sensor bracket as I'm sure you are aware.


Now since you are smart why is it that the kicker will not work on the 630? Enough of your BS about other issues that you only miss-construe to fill your inaccurate assumptions.

[Fast1]

Originally Posted by xymotic

Pulling the wires and bypassing the sensor was a 5 second fix that WOULD have got you going. And that is IDENTICAL on the 610 and many other bikes. There is NO need to try and test the sensor in the field.

you join the wires, if that doesn't work you test the circuit itself. You said you tested "many" circuits, so you started in the wrong place and chased your tail.

The 610/630 won't kick start, because GEORGE SAYS SO

I solved the problem quicker.. just kicked it over.. don't you wish you had a kicker..

[WFO]

As light as those new batteries are getting it might add less weight to carry a spare batt.

[Stroker Ace]

What's the best chain lube to use??????

[LRPct]

Originally Posted by Stroker Ace

What's the best chain lube to use??????

hahhaahaaaaaaa..

[LRPct]

Originally Posted by Fast55

that is all fine and dandy but the issue was not determined until a week after the event because the rubber boot near the clutch (hydro no cable like the 610) was covering the problem area. Plus we were riding in an all day rain storm at 40 to 50 degree which did not provide optimum elements for analysis trailside.

It required testing many electrical circuits with a mulitmeter to determine the source of the problem at home which was not possible during the ride. Eventually I determined that when my bike was slid under a deadfall the individual that pulled it through wrapped his had around the clutch lead and actually pulled the entire sensor partially out of the threads. The wires were not broken but rather the pressure tab was not pushing in far enough to complete the circuit. This was not visible by a visual ilnspection.


To summarize again I'm identifying the benefits of a kicker. But more importantly since this topic got off track and that is why none of you smart guys have called George yet to find out really why a kicker won't work on the TE630... We are all waiting for the results of that call.. and we need more than George says..

wow.. THAT is a master mechanic moment there.. To unravel that mystery about the clutch kill switch in such a timely manner..

Then again, I thought one of the few things EVERYONE did when prepping their bikes was removing/shorting out that circuit since it's one of the most common issues with DOT bikes, especially enduro/ADV bikes that might end up on the ground more often.. At least that's how I've seen it done since I was 6YO.

[955616846]

Originally Posted by Stroker Ace

What's the best chain lube to use??????

Plain old engine oil through an oiler... I like the Pro-Oiler.

Anyone who says that a chain does not require external lube is talking out of the wrong orifice.

Now bring it on.

[LRPct]

Originally Posted by 955616846

Plain old engine oil through an oiler... I like the Pro-Oiler.

Anyone who says that a chain does not require external lube is talking out of the wrong orifice.

Now bring it on.

yeah.. but what's the best old engine oil to start with??