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Old 03-01-2013, 05:00 AM   #16
JimVonBaden
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Am about to flush all the brake fluid on my 2005 this weekend. Are we all still thinking that standard DOT 4 is the way to go?
Yes, no reason to use anything different.

Jim
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:02 AM   #17
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Thanks, Jim.
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:47 AM   #18
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dot 3, 4 and 5.1 are all various glycol blends and additives. You have some different molecular weights of glycol and of course additive content can vary. The additives are for corrosion protection. For this reason I try to get major brands. The more often you change it, it less important additives are. On the BMW schedule, I think about anything would work.

Rod

ragtoplvr screwed with this post 03-07-2013 at 07:05 AM Reason: I made a type, I meant to type 4, not 5
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:47 AM   #19
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5.1

Quote:
Originally Posted by ragtoplvr View Post
dot 3, 5 and 5.1 are all various glycol blends and additives. You have some different molecular weights of glycol and of course additive content can vary. The additives are for corrosion protection. For this reason I try to get major brands. The more often you change it, it less important additives are. On the BMW schedule, I think about anything would work.

Rod
I believe Dot 5 is silicone-based, not glycol. I used Dot 5.1 on my last flush. Still glycol-based like Dot 4, but with a higher boiling point. All seems ok so far. You can't go wrong sticking to the manual here, but I don't think 5.1 was available back in 2004 when mine was written.
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Old 03-02-2013, 02:15 AM   #20
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Bluhduh

DOT 5 IS silicone based and must NOT be mixed with glycol based fluids like DOT4. It will rea ct chemically with the glycol and gum up the innards of the brake system. It will also cause a more spongy feeling to the brakes. Mainly used for old veteran cars which is in long time storage as DOT 5 is not absorbing water.
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:51 AM   #21
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Say, has anyone got a convenient diagram of the nipple bleeding order for the servo unit? I've seen those european videos where the guy points out which is which and can go back and do screen caps with notes, but would prefer not to re-invent the wheel if it is already around somewhere. Thanks!
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:56 AM   #22
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Say, has anyone got a convenient diagram of the nipple bleeding order for the servo unit? I've seen those european videos where the guy points out which is which and can go back and do screen caps with notes, but would prefer not to re-invent the wheel if it is already around somewhere. Thanks!


Quote:
Notice:
There was a change in the need to bleed all the ABS controller fitting in a couple of BMW service bulletins.

Specifically in Bulletin # 34 002 06 (019) dated Apr 2006 Maintenance:

For maintenance work, the brake fluid replacement in the control circuits is now only to be carried out via the control circuit bleeding ports (see arrows in pictures). It is no longer required to replace the fluid via the bleeding ports of the metering cylinder and of the Integral circuit during routine brake fluid replacement.
I also do the same on the R1150 servo bikes.

Jim
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Old 03-07-2013, 04:03 AM   #23
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I also do the same on the R1150 servo bikes.

Jim
Woah! Only a single point for front and a single point for rear now? This doesn't leave crappy old fluid in there?

Thanks for the spiffy pic!
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Old 03-07-2013, 04:36 AM   #24
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Woah! Only a single point for front and a single point for rear now? This doesn't leave crappy old fluid in there?

Thanks for the spiffy pic!

From what I can tell this is not an issue. You can do the others if you like, look in the HOW to see the sequence, but I have done it both ways doing the two only first, and then the other four. I have never seen any idnication that the other four had trapped dirty fluid in them.

Jim
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:47 AM   #25
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Ok, thanks. The HOW seems to detail the older one, not the hexhead one, though, right?
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:54 AM   #26
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Ok, thanks. The HOW seems to detail the older one, not the hexhead one, though, right?
True, but they are essentially the same for maintenance/service purposses.

Jim
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:02 AM   #27
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It is not the old fluid that causes issues, it is the depletion of the corrosion protective additives. There are PH buffers and such. the fluid mixes. so the fresh additives get mixed in and protect. Annual changes are kind of overkill, but you are sure to be protected and the ABS unit is expensive.

Pragmatists will do as recommended, using brand name Dot4, perfectionists will do them all using only BMW fluid Both will have the same results.

Rod
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:07 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragtoplvr View Post
It is not the old fluid that causes issues, it is the depletion of the corrosion protective additives. There are PH buffers and such. the fluid mixes. so the fresh additives get mixed in and protect. Annual changes are kind of overkill, but you are sure to be protected and the ABS unit is expensive.

Pragmatists will do as recommended, using brand name Dot4, perfectionists will do them all using only BMW fluid Both will have the same results.

Rod
So, as recommended, do only the two main control circuits and you are fine.

Jim
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:55 AM   #29
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Am I good to go with Valvoline synthetic DOT 3&4 in my 2005 whizzy brake ABS R1200GS? I can't seem to find straight DOT 4 locally.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...brake-fluid/28

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Old 03-30-2013, 02:25 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Am I good to go with Valvoline synthetic DOT 3&4 in my 2005 whizzy brake ABS R1200GS? I can't seem to find straight DOT 4 locally.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...brake-fluid/28

No problem!

Jim
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