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Old 10-12-2009, 09:46 AM   #16
Gizmo
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Great work! Looks like it will work just fine.
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:00 AM   #17
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Wire

I'm a little confused....(happens easily)....is this special wire or just regular copper?
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:24 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motoriley
I'm a little confused....(happens easily)....is this special wire or just regular copper?
I put the link to where I got it at the start of this thread. I tried finding a data sheet on it, but Beldin's link is no good. It seems to be copper with a plating of somesort. The insulation is a high temp silicon based and so far I've found nthing that'll stick to it. I got the wire specs here http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113134
and figured there was no sence reinventing th wheel. If it worked for them, it'll wok for me.

The wire is very flexable, thin, and seems pretty tough. I'm wiring a set of gloves now, and I have to wrap the end around a homemade croche hook to pull it through. It can stand quite a few wrapping and unwrappings before I starting to break, so hopefully it'll last for several years. I am carefull not to put any sharp bends anywhere, and left a little slack all round to minimize physical stress on the wire.
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Old 10-12-2009, 11:54 AM   #19
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10K pot linear
555
rfp50n06
1n4004
330K
2.2k
1.2k
100ohm
.047
x16g700 self reseting fuse
2x 105 ceramics

I'll draw it out later and post a schematic

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Old 10-12-2009, 03:29 PM   #20
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This is nice, for some reason I always thought heated jackets have way more complicated technology. How much does it weigh? Have you thought about building it straight into the jacket?
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Old 10-12-2009, 04:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodisiac
This is nice, for some reason I always thought heated jackets have way more complicated technology. How much does it weigh? Have you thought about building it straight into the jacket?
It weighs hardly anything, the wire only adds ounces to the thin light liner.

You could build it into the jacket, but the Idea is to have the wires as close to you as possable. 80 watts is not enough power to heat the air (convection) it is more of conductive heat, conducting the heat to your skin.

Think of a 75 watt liht bulb. It gets hot, but all the heat is confined to a small area. This system has the heat spread out over about 6 square feet.
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Old 10-12-2009, 04:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tslewisz
About how many feet of wire did you use? I see BuddingGeezer uses 30'.

Would just wiring it into a Powerlet get too danged hot?
For practical purposes 30awg copper wire has 1 ohm resistance per 10', so 30' have 3 ohms resistance. My '91 Honda ST1100 runs at 15Volts. 15/3= 5 amps. 15V x 5 amps = 75 watts. I originally used this on a BMW K100LT which put out 14V. wich produced 65 watts. I originally sewed the thread into a zip out quilted lining and I noticed the extra heat from the BMW to the Honda. I bought a new winter jacket, so I stripped the wire and sewed it into a Wal Mart Starter brand jacket just like the original poster, but I will wear it turned inside out to provide a little insulation from the wiring. Mine plugs directly to the battery with an inline off/on switch. The wire I used was Radio Shack 30awg copper hook up wire. It is a single strand wire and was $3 for 50'. I no longer can find it a RS. Stranded wire like the original poster used would be better, simply because the multiple wires are more pliable and would tend to not be as breakable when folded. I have only broken a wire 1 time and all you do is connect it back.

Since I no longer have the quilted insulation between me and the wiring the 15 volts may be too hot. If so I'll add more wire to cool it down.

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Old 10-12-2009, 07:23 PM   #23
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nice

Great stuff, can't wait to see your schematic!

What is the total cost Wire/jacket/controller?
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:23 PM   #24
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We should sticky this thread!
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:49 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpken11
Great stuff, can't wait to see your schematic!

What is the total cost Wire/jacket/controller?
So far I have $10.00 in the jacket (Wal Mart), $25.00 in wire (+ $6.95 shipping), about $5.00 for the connectors. Th save myself trouble, I think I'm oing to go with this controller $22.00 plus shipping.
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Old 10-13-2009, 05:01 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65 Flathead
So far I have $10.00 in the jacket (Wal Mart), $25.00 in wire (+ $6.95 shipping), about $5.00 for the connectors. Th save myself trouble, I think I'm oing to go with this controller $22.00 plus shipping.
Ding!! cheap enough to justify not building your own


BTW, this circuit pdf file is buildable for about $20 in parts only handles 7.5A load, but the kits are so inexpensive there is really no reason to DIY other than
to say "I DIY'd it". Unlike the savings on making a heated vest/jacket, IMO.

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Old 10-13-2009, 05:55 AM   #27
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hmmmmmmm, what do you guys think about adding heat to removeable aerostich vest sleeves, and, keeping them removeable? I'm thinking a coax at each sleeve to plug in, and, a coax at the main power to plug it all together. Use a splitter at the Aero SAE connector to plug both in, so, there's only one wire going to the bike.

My problem is I'm much better dreaming this stuff up than implementing
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:29 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumpet
Ding!! cheap enough to justify not building your own


BTW, this circuit pdf file is buildable for about $20 in parts only handles 7.5A load, but the kits are so inexpensive there is really no reason to DIY other than
to say "I DIY'd it". Unlike the savings on making a heated vest/jacket, IMO.
My thoughts Ed Zachery. The only reasion I would consider making my own is to have a dual controller in one box, but it's not worth the itme. I'll just get two of these.
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:39 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Williams
hmmmmmmm, what do you guys think about adding heat to removeable aerostich vest sleeves, and, keeping them removeable? I'm thinking a coax at each sleeve to plug in, and, a coax at the main power to plug it all together. Use a splitter at the Aero SAE connector to plug both in, so, there's only one wire going to the bike.

My problem is I'm much better dreaming this stuff up than implementing
Do you plan on running them off of the same controller? If so, I see 2 potential problems.
1. Current draw on your controller. Most of them can only handle 15 amps max, and
2. Matching the heat ratio between the sleeves and vest. You will be either increasing your Rt (total resistance) if you cut into your exixting circuit and run the sleves in series, which will bring your total wattage down, OR if you put them in paralell with your existing circuit, you'll raise the amps, and total watts.

If you used a seperate controller for the sleeves, and just run a Y cable up to them you'd have no problems.

Hope this answers your question, but I'm not sure I understood correctly.
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:20 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65 Flathead
Do you plan on running them off of the same controller? If so, I see 2 potential problems.
1. Current draw on your controller. Most of them can only handle 15 amps max, and
2. Matching the heat ratio between the sleeves and vest. You will be either increasing your Rt (total resistance) if you cut into your exixting circuit and run the sleves in series, which will bring your total wattage down, OR if you put them in paralell with your existing circuit, you'll raise the amps, and total watts.

If you used a seperate controller for the sleeves, and just run a Y cable up to them you'd have no problems.

Hope this answers your question, but I'm not sure I understood correctly.
Well, clearly I don't really know what I'm doing, but, it seems like running enough wire to heat the sleeves would make it roughly the same draw as a normal heated liner? I use a Heat troller. make sense?
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