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Old 05-21-2013, 09:56 AM   #1846
pjz
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Location: Shenandoah Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moto vito View Post
Thanks for the feedback on the Dart flyscreen. I have the low bars on my bike so I think I may try the Dart before spending all that money on the Kawasaki W8oo fairing.
I have the solid black Dart Flyscreen on my W and it does make a difference at speed, plus it also looks great to me. I have the Clubman Ace bars from W650Shop.de. I did notice more water buildup on my face shield in driving rain due to the lower air pressure caused by the Flyscreen, but there are other ways to clear it. Steve at Dart Flyscreens will get you what you need. I agree with pjensen641; great quality and solid mounting like it was made for the bike.

peter
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:39 AM   #1847
tonysmallframe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rulle_retard View Post
Ok, do you have the original exhaust system or an aftermarket? Or have you drilled the baffels on the original?

I think you are running too lean, I had the e-clip on the second groove before and had the same symptoms as you have. Try to put it on the 3rd groove and if you have a more freeflowing exhaust system than original I would definetly put in DJ112 main jets.

Also check all the vacuum hoses, sync the carbs and clean the airfilters if you havent done that.
So, did some work the past few weeks and have it running well.
Let the carbs soak for 3 days in Pine sol - it was amazing to see all the crap in the bottom of the bucket. Stuck a hose in there, let it run for 30 minutes to cycle some clean water back in them. Took them out, air dry, and sprayed them down with a can of compressed air into all the passages. Ran some carb cleaner through the passages, then sprayed it all out again with compressed air. Got both floats setup at 18mm, put in new idle adjustment screws, o-rings, and springs, the Dynojet 108 mains, raised the Dynojet needle to the third seat, and got new #35 pilot jets. New bowl gaskets and hex-heads and they were good to go.


Now that it is running, I think I am in the market for a new front rim. Looks like someone before me hit something pretty hard - the rim is bent on one side, sidewall of the rim is bulging out slightly and the rim is out of round by sight.

Does anyone know if the stock rims are still availabile anywhere - and at a good price? If not, I'm thinking of going with an Excel from Buchannon up front and replacing the rear to match in the offseason.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:08 AM   #1848
BravoFox
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Your friendly neighborhood Kawasaki dealer might be a good lead....

I'm sure W800's rims do fit the w650.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:32 AM   #1849
tonysmallframe
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No W800's in the USA. Friendly neighborhood dealer wants $900 for just the bare rim. If I can find one online/used for cheaper, it's an option. If not, I should be able to get the Excel laced up for around $400, with stainless steel spokes.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:52 AM   #1850
BravoFox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonysmallframe View Post
No W800's in the USA. Friendly neighborhood dealer wants $900 for just the bare rim. If I can find one online/used for cheaper, it's an option. If not, I should be able to get the Excel laced up for around $400, with stainless steel spokes.
Darn, forgot about the W not being available to you guys....

Well...
Short of the Excel aftermarket, I would suggest you keep checking European ebay sites ... I'm sure a used imported wheel would still be much cheaper, wouldn't it?
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:12 PM   #1851
rulle_retard
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Replaced my spark plugs yesterday, just wonder; does this looks pretty ok? Looks a little sooty/carbon to me, or am I too picky?
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:19 PM   #1852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonysmallframe View Post
Now that it is running, I think I am in the market for a new front rim. Looks like someone before me hit something pretty hard - the rim is bent on one side, sidewall of the rim is bulging out slightly and the rim is out of round by sight.

Does anyone know if the stock rims are still availabile anywhere - and at a good price? If not, I'm thinking of going with an Excel from Buchannon up front and replacing the rear to match in the offseason.
You didn't mention 2000 or 2001 (the parts may be different) but looking at the parts fiche (kawasakipartshouse.com) they don't list the whole wheel as an assembly but it looks like you can buy the wheel parts and lace 'em up yourself. For the front wheel you've got:

Outer Rim, $223.25
Inner Spokes, $2.95 ea. x 18 = $53.10
Outer Spokes, $2.95 ea. x 18 = $53.10
Spoke Nipples, $2.95 ea. x 72 = $212.40
Grand Total = $541.85 in parts.

(I assume you would re-use the existing wheel hub).
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:59 PM   #1853
pjensen641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rulle_retard View Post
Replaced my spark plugs yesterday, just wonder; does this looks pretty ok? Looks a little sooty/carbon to me, or am I too picky?
Looks a bit rich to me, but plug color and condition depend highly on the running conditions just prior to the last shut down. Most plug readers swear that you should do a WOT kill switch shut down to read the mains. Alternately, if the bike had idled for a long time prior to the last shut down, this might indicate a rich pilot setting.

Most of the time, I like to see a very light tan porcelain and a dark but not sooty metal casing and electrode. You seem to have a dark brown/gray porcelain and partially sooty electrode.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:58 PM   #1854
Barnone
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I'd say a little rich too but that is fine as far as I am concerned. Better than being too lean IMHO.
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:19 PM   #1855
chupa88
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Need new chain and sprocket recommendations

So I need a new chain and sprocket. Confirmed by the repair shop.

Any recommendations on chains? Seems like there's quite a few options? X-ring, O-rings, misc?

As for the sprocket that should be replaced with a new chain - This is a rear
sprocket or front?? OEM? After market? The factory is 15T?

Sorry if this is obvious and dumb...
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Old 05-23-2013, 05:12 AM   #1856
Pigford
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If you're doing shorter rides and only slow going, looks OK. Always try a softer (hotter) plug to reduce the soot. When was the airfilter last changed?
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:00 PM   #1857
tonysmallframe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Jerk View Post
You didn't mention 2000 or 2001 (the parts may be different) but looking at the parts fiche (kawasakipartshouse.com) they don't list the whole wheel as an assembly but it looks like you can buy the wheel parts and lace 'em up yourself. For the front wheel you've got:

Outer Rim, $223.25
Inner Spokes, $2.95 ea. x 18 = $53.10
Outer Spokes, $2.95 ea. x 18 = $53.10
Spoke Nipples, $2.95 ea. x 72 = $212.40
Grand Total = $541.85 in parts.

(I assume you would re-use the existing wheel hub).
Thanks! I'm hoping the spokes/nipples are fine as well - they didn't appear to be rusty or seized at all.

On another note, I found out that the stock rims are made by the same folks who make the Excel so it sounds like a new rim and $70 for some truing and I'm back in the game.
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:08 PM   #1858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chupa88 View Post
So I need a new chain and sprocket. Confirmed by the repair shop.

Any recommendations on chains? Seems like there's quite a few options? X-ring, O-rings, misc?

As for the sprocket that should be replaced with a new chain - This is a rear
sprocket or front?? OEM? After market? The factory is 15T?

Sorry if this is obvious and dumb...
If you need to replace one sprocket (presumably the rear since that's the only one that is visible without some disassembly) then you should do both. When I did it, I just used the OEM parts:

Chain, 92057-1551 (525 x 104 links) = $166.24 (can probably find a cheaper aftermarket chain based on those specs)
Rear Sprocket, 42041-1371 (39T) = $51.68
Front Sprocket, 13144-1305 (15T) = $28.56

Check the service manual for any one-use only parts you may have to replace. There is a washer that goes between the front sprocket and the nut that holds it on and I can't remember if it's a one-use item or not.

Also note that the nut which holds the front sprocket is an unholy bitch to remove. You will likely need access to an impact wrench and it's quite a large socket too.

Hmm I'm surprised I didn't write a how-to article on this. At any rate, here's a ProTip: The OEM chain is endless. You can cut the old one off but if you are installing a new OEM chain, the swingarm has to come out to install the new chain (not difficult, just extra time involved). If you get an aftermarket chain you can avoid that step.
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:53 PM   #1859
pjensen641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Jerk View Post
If you need to replace one sprocket (presumably the rear since that's the only one that is visible without some disassembly) then you should do both. When I did it, I just used the OEM parts:

Chain, 92057-1551 (525 x 104 links) = $166.24 (can probably find a cheaper aftermarket chain based on those specs)
Rear Sprocket, 42041-1371 (39T) = $51.68
Front Sprocket, 13144-1305 (15T) = $28.56

Check the service manual for any one-use only parts you may have to replace. There is a washer that goes between the front sprocket and the nut that holds it on and I can't remember if it's a one-use item or not.

Also note that the nut which holds the front sprocket is an unholy bitch to remove. You will likely need access to an impact wrench and it's quite a large socket too.

Hmm I'm surprised I didn't write a how-to article on this. At any rate, here's a ProTip: The OEM chain is endless. You can cut the old one off but if you are installing a new OEM chain, the swingarm has to come out to install the new chain (not difficult, just extra time involved). If you get an aftermarket chain you can avoid that step.
I just looked at my favorite source for sprockets and chains and it appears the 00-03 ZR7 F/R sprockets are the same as the W650. Go with steel Sunstar, they make a quality product.

Here is Sunstars page for the W650
http://www.sunstar-mc.com/searchresu...50&DD3=2001-02

And here for the ZR7
http://www.sunstar-mc.com/searchresu...0ZR-7&DD3=2000

PLEASE verify yourself that they are the same.

Now go an order sprockets from here...
http://sprocketcenter.com/index.php/...1999-2003.html

And this is the chain I would choose in the correct length (104 links)...
http://sprocketcenter.com/index.php/...led-chain.html

Rivet links are best, but take a special tool and some knowledge to install. I like the RK chain tool for this.

http://sprocketcenter.com/index.php/...-tool-kit.html

Would be best to have a knowledgeable person to help inspect your work if this is the route you go. To much rivet smashing will lock the chain up...not enough and it may fall off.


That should be good for another 20K miles...
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Old 05-23-2013, 05:16 PM   #1860
Speedo66
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I see the rivet links and wonder why? Been riding and using a master link with the push on locking bit on chains for close to 50 years, never had a problem, or heard of anyone have one come off. I last used one on an SV1000, which is a fairly powerful bike, again, no problems.

I wouldn't go to the bother of using a rivet link, especially on a relatively low powered bike like the W. Just seems like added complexity.
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