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Old 07-06-2011, 03:32 PM   #691
acap650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adoptamutt View Post
I bought a 2000 W650 in April and it seems to have too much engine vibration coming through the seat.... my butt tingles after just 10 miles ! Any ideas ?

Background: The bike has 37K miles, it's been rejetted, stock mufflers, air pump removed. It has Progressive fork springs installed, stock rear shocks set at the #4 setting, new Dunlop Arrowmax tires.

I had a 1992 TDM850 before, which is a 850cc parallel twin with a single counter balance shaft like the W650, but that engine was way smoother. I thought the smaller W650 would be smoother than the larger TDM motor.

My brother said perhaps the carbs need to be synch'ed. Anything else ? I have a Corbin Gunfighter seat installed. The worse high frequency vibration comes thru the seat, then the pegs, and finally the handlebars.

Thanks !
Corbin seat pan and foam is much more rigid than that on the stock seat. Try the stock seat if you have it, otherwise a good sheepskin on a 1/4 in. foam underneath might help. I have the Corbin solo and like the look but the seat pocket is too far back for me when used with low bars.

The W is not super smooth, but that's why you bought a retro isn't it?
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Old 07-07-2011, 01:15 PM   #692
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This is probably a dumb Q, but why does the fuel tap have ON - PRI - RES positions and not OFF - ON - RES like most bikes?

I would have looked this up in the owners manual but I only got the service manual with the bike and that doesn't have answers to all the silly Q's, only the technical ones.
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Old 07-07-2011, 01:31 PM   #693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WikdBeemer View Post
This is probably a dumb Q, but why does the fuel tap have ON - PRI - RES positions and not OFF - ON - RES like most bikes?

I would have looked this up in the owners manual but I only got the service manual with the bike and that doesn't have answers to all the silly Q's, only the technical ones.
It's got a vacuum fuel tap, so no fuel will flow in the on position unless the engine is running and pulling it through. So......it doesn't need an off.

Since the fuel won't flow, the prime position is there to allow you to let fuel down to the carbs, should you need to, without the engine running.
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Old 07-07-2011, 01:37 PM   #694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo66 View Post
It's got a vacuum fuel tap, so no fuel will flow in the on position unless the engine is running and pulling it through. So......it doesn't need an off.

Since the fuel won't flow, the prime position is there to allow you to let fuel down to the carbs, should you need to, without the engine running.
OK thanks.
So, Pri is not for starting the bike as the carbs would normally have enough juice in the carbs to get it going, then the vacuum will start the fuel flow as soon as the engine runs.
I understand but it seems more complex than it needs to be.
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Old 07-07-2011, 01:43 PM   #695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WikdBeemer View Post
This is probably a dumb Q, but why does the fuel tap have ON - PRI - RES positions and not OFF - ON - RES like most bikes?

I would have looked this up in the owners manual but I only got the service manual with the bike and that doesn't have answers to all the silly Q's, only the technical ones.
Fuel is OFF when engine is not running. Engine running sends vacuum to petcock which turns fuel ON so there is no need to mess with the petcock. PRI bypasses vacuum shut off so that fuel will flow even with engine off. I use PRI before starting if the float bowls have been drained or the tank went empty. Clear??
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Old 07-07-2011, 06:28 PM   #696
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Yes I understand, I just wonder why they did it that way.
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Old 07-07-2011, 06:36 PM   #697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WikdBeemer View Post
Yes I understand, I just wonder why they did it that way.
So you don't have to turn the fuel tap on and off all the time like an asshole.
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Old 07-07-2011, 06:37 PM   #698
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Originally Posted by WikdBeemer View Post
OK thanks.
So, Pri is not for starting the bike as the carbs would normally have enough juice in the carbs to get it going, then the vacuum will start the fuel flow as soon as the engine runs.
I understand but it seems more complex than it needs to be.
The vacuum just from cranking is enough to open the fuel tap. You don't really need prime unless the float bowls are empty or for whatever maintenance-related reasons you might want to drain the fuel from the tank.
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Old 07-08-2011, 01:11 PM   #699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acap650 View Post
Corbin seat pan and foam is much more rigid than that on the stock seat. Try the stock seat if you have it, otherwise a good sheepskin on a 1/4 in. foam underneath might help. I have the Corbin solo and like the look but the seat pocket is too far back for me when used with low bars.

The W is not super smooth, but that's why you bought a retro isn't it?
I do have the stock seat ... it's terrible, just like the reviews from back in the day reported...
I've actually been thinking of sending it to Spencers to get it reshaped and have the Supracore insert installed. I was hoping this would help isolate the vibes. I was also thinking of getting some "Sorbothane" anti-vibration gel washers to mount at all the contact points for the Corbin and the stock seats.

Yeah, I know the W is not super smooth, but right now it feels like a one of those coin-operated massage beds at cheap, dive motels. Not that I've ever tried them ... . Besides, the whole ideal with the neo retro bikes like the W, the Bonnie, Guzzi V7 Classic, Duc GT1000, it to LOOK retro, but not feel totally retro. I mean, the W has a counter balance shaft ! And none of these manufacturers are going to introduce a "true" retro with drum brakes in front, kick start only, 6 volt systems, with a guarantee to leave an oil spot on your garage floor every night ...
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Old 07-08-2011, 01:23 PM   #700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adoptamutt View Post
Yeah, I know the W is not super smooth, but right now it feels like a one of those coin-operated massage beds at cheap, dive motels. Not that I've ever tried them ... . Besides, the whole ideal with the neo retro bikes like the W, the Bonnie, Guzzi V7 Classic, Duc GT1000, it to LOOK retro, but not feel totally retro. I mean, the W has a counter balance shaft ! And none of these manufacturers are going to introduce a "true" retro with drum brakes in front, kick start only, 6 volt systems, with a guarantee to leave an oil spot on your garage floor every night ...
The W does have a little bit of vibration but it's just a little bit. It should not be putting your butt to sleep. The only time I ever get tingles is in my feet through the footpegs only on LONG rides.

So it could be that something mechanical is out of whack increasing the vibration. Definitely sync the carbs and if it's still off, could be one of the cylinders not making its share of the power, hence my follow-up suggestions - valve adjustment, compression test, leakdown test.
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Old 07-08-2011, 04:22 PM   #701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adoptamutt View Post
Yeah, I know the W is not super smooth, but right now it feels like a one of those coin-operated massage beds at cheap, dive motels. Not that I've ever tried them ... . Besides, the whole ideal with the neo retro bikes like the W, the Bonnie, Guzzi V7 Classic, Duc GT1000, it to LOOK retro, but not feel totally retro. I mean, the W has a counter balance shaft ! And none of these manufacturers are going to introduce a "true" retro with drum brakes in front, kick start only, 6 volt systems, with a guarantee to leave an oil spot on your garage floor every night ...
My Dub is smooth. Only a very light vibration at higher speeds--80 or so. 60-70, enough wind and noise to let you know you're on a motorcycle, not a flying carpet. A touch of mirror vibration at freeway speeds. No problem with footpegs/handlebars. You've got some sort of issue with yours. As suggested above, carb synch; if that's ok, then the valves, and re-synch. How about loose/missing motor mounts?

Stock seat: it sucks, just like all the overstuffed barcaloungers out there. Extra padding will only make it worse--its problem is that it's too soft, and isn't flat across. I've had Corbin's on two other bikes, excellent saddle if a trifle firm. One could put a sheepskin on a Corbin if its too firm.
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Old 07-10-2011, 02:31 PM   #702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Jerk View Post
So you don't have to turn the fuel tap on and off all the time like an asshole.


Clearly I have been an asshole for many years but now that I have a W and my beemer has EFI & no fuel tap, I must be cured
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Old 07-13-2011, 03:11 PM   #703
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Got my new rear fender today (original one has just begun to crack in the usual spot). The new one is the updated version with the additional bracing welded on the underside.

The service manual seems to think I can switch out the fender without removing the wheel so I'll give it a shot and post up the photos here.

Also the Five Stars luggage rack I have finally cracked through one of the tubes. This is the second Five Stars rack to fail in the same way and each one after only a few months and not much use. I can only conclude that the rack is just not built robustly enough for the purpose for which it is sold. I have a Hepco & Becker rack on order; hopefully that will prove to be a bit more robust.
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Old 07-13-2011, 03:43 PM   #704
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Originally Posted by The Jerk View Post
Got my new rear fender today (original one has just begun to crack in the usual spot). The new one is the updated version with the additional bracing welded on the underside.

The service manual seems to think I can switch out the fender without removing the wheel so I'll give it a shot and post up the photos here.

Also the Five Stars luggage rack I have finally cracked through one of the tubes. This is the second Five Stars rack to fail in the same way and each one after only a few months and not much use. I can only conclude that the rack is just not built robustly enough for the purpose for which it is sold. I have a Hepco & Becker rack on order; hopefully that will prove to be a bit more robust.
When I removed mine for the bracing (there was no braced version at the time) I believe I did it during a tire change.

You seem like a serious rider. If you plan to keep this and ride in all conditions consider applying a good paint to the inside of the fender before installing, maybe a silver rustoleum. I've seen some Ws with miles and the inside of the fender corrodes over time - it has just a thin chrome flashing.

I also have the Five Stars racks and have run 16K miles with no problems, but using the light Givi cruiser bags. Perhaps the quality has gone south. If you got the racks from Twisted I would contact them for a credit and hope they should stop selling these defective racks.

Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 07-13-2011, 04:51 PM   #705
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The rear fender can be removed with the wheel in situ.

The 2 bolts securing the forward part of the fender need a universal joint coupled with a socket to remove.

I put 3 coats of silver Hammerite with a paint brush, not the prettiest paint job done but it stays and protects the fenders from the tropical weather where my W is living.

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