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Old 06-12-2010, 06:32 PM   #76
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Eureka, Ca.
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What a great project! Nice work, topless!

2014.5 Kawasaki KLR650 NE-2006 Buell XB12SS-2002 Husky TE570-2001 Husaberg FE650E-1993 Kawasaki KX500-1984 Honda XL600R/XR650L Hybrid-1984 Yamaha TT600L-1980 Honda CB750F
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Old 10-30-2010, 05:57 PM   #77
toplessFC3Sman OP
Joined: Oct 2009
Oddometer: 68
Back from the dead!

Its been a while, and stuff has slowly been getting done, but I'm starting to focus more on the CL350 again. A lot of stripping & repainting parts has happened, but not much that could really be considered progress. Anyway, as of this afternoon I started building the frame back up, putting on the front end, rear swing arm & wheels with new tires, as well as getting the engine back in the bike to start laying out the wiring harness. Some progress has been made on planning the harness, and the alternator should be all sealed up and ready to go. Charging the battery now to spin the engine over & just check to make sure that the alternator is centered on the crank's axis of rotation, and isn't going to scrape the stator.

Some more pictures of the stator setup:

And of the bike starting to come together:

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Old 10-30-2010, 07:06 PM   #78
Kansas Honda
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Kansas, motorcycle hell
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Thumb Wow

I am a purist, but this does not upset me; this application of technology is simply wonderful. Kudos to you for not giving up on the project! Looking forward to the videos of the maiden voyage! Don't give up!
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Old 11-07-2010, 07:36 AM   #79
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Location: 39*40'33.86N 104*59'54.69W
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this is one of the few projects that i have ''subscribed to,,,,you just keep it up,,,i,contrary to the many of the 'naysayers' can tell you are on the right track and have the moxie to pull this one off...

...just keep on ,,you'll get there

,,,and keep on sharing

woody[patron saint of the those that venture out of the harbor of the 'KNOWN']

OBTW,,,,a shielded spark plug cover like on the old BMW airheads should help with the noise issue i would think....
If you have any questions... Post Em Here
..For more info check our website...
....Wanna e-mail us...
......Wanna talk,,,call us
toll free... 1-866-936-0232
........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 11-07-2010, 09:11 AM   #80
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Beautiful Revelstoke BC
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Wow what a huge endeavor, cool stuff.... keep it coming.
Kawasaki H1 build thread

71- 450 Honda CL re & re

Just another pathetic sheep following the herd

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Old 11-07-2010, 05:50 PM   #81
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Location: Western PA
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Looks like you moved into a much nicer workshop... err, balcony.
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Old 11-16-2010, 04:34 PM   #82
toplessFC3Sman OP
Joined: Oct 2009
Oddometer: 68
Thanks for all the kind words everyone! It is getting a lot closer to completion, but still needs a good bit of wrench time.

Yea, the balcony is nicer at this apt, but its a wood floor as opposed to concrete, so if any fluids spill, they can run down onto the balcony below... hasn't happened yet but I need to be careful when working on it out there.

Anywho, a bit of work's been done shortening & laying out wiring harnesses, but the most photogenic stuff has been to the mounts for the throttle bodies & the fuel rails.

The original plan had been to use both the CBR rubber coupling and the CL coupling, but when I actually mocked it up, it seemed... slightly flimsy.

So, instead, I went to work to put together more permanent. Time to get all the rubber off of the CL's couplings to get some flanges I can weld to...

I also had some 1 1/2" tube laying around that I had been using as a breaker bar, and the ID was as perfect of a match for the newly created flange. Unfortunately, the OD did not even remotely match the CBR couplers, so I needed to find something that did. A run out to the hardware store netted a short piece of 1 1/4" pipe (no idea what schedule). After a bit of cutting and welding (wow, I'm a bit rusty with the TIG torch), I got these:

Not pretty at all, and they still need a bit of finishing, but they position the throttle bodies so that the filters will clear the battery box and the megasquirt, but not far enough to hit your legs when riding. I also welded on some tube compression fittings to the end of the rails, so I can use a bit of hard tubing between the throttle bodies for the fuel instead of hose-clamping some rubber line and hoping it holds.
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:00 AM   #83
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Joined: Oct 2009
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Didn't make much progress on the wiring harness recently. My parents are coming to town for thanksgiving so this weekend my gf and I were thoroughly cleaning the apt & organizing, and I convinced her that the best place to store most of the motorcycle stuff was on the motorcycle itself. Now, she's mostly reassembled, minus the mounting for the MegaSquirt, headlight, the real handle bars I'm going to use, gauges & front turn signals... and of course the wiring to make it all work. I did spin it over with the battery & starter, and there doesn't sound like there's any contact in the alternator. The MegaSquirt will be going right underneath the battery tray in pic 2, between it and the little storage box that the rear fender rides on. Thats a little bit low & close to road grime & water for my liking, but for now it'll be good enough. Pic 3 tries to show how far out the alternator casing sticks out. Not too bad, but I had to bend the shifter out by about an inch so it wouldn't hang up on the mounting bolts for the casing when upshifting

Unfortunately, I opened the gas tank and was greeted by the tank sealant having separated from the inside of the tank along the top (and who knows where else), and massively peeling. Guess i'll just need to strip it out & try again. I had heard good things about the POR15 tank sealant stuff; maybe I just didn't clean it out well enough between steps?

And then this last one is the gas tank latch that I kludged together from some spare metal and welded on there, since the stock one was long gone when we got the bike. Not pretty, but it works in the same way.

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Old 11-22-2010, 08:09 AM   #84
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Location: DeKalb County, Illinois
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What a fantastic project. I've heard of enough people having that kind of failure with POR15 that I don't think I'd ever use it. Did the tank have pinhole leaks or anything? If not, the inside should be clean enough from the POR prep to not need any kind of sealant.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:22 AM   #85
toplessFC3Sman OP
Joined: Oct 2009
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I've never filled the tank all the way up, but from about 3/4's full it didn't leak. However, the rubber seal on the cap was mostly missing when my friends & I bought it, and it was rusty enough to plug the carb within 10-20 min of riding (even when not using the reserve). The cleaner seemed to do a pretty good job though; I don't feel much rust if I hook my fingers around under where that film used to be attached. Maybe before fixing it again I can try to knock out a couple dents in it, and weld on more appropriate fuel fittings that won't be choking the quite oversized fuel pump.

One other question... What would you call the style of handle bar that's on the bike right now? I'd like to get one thats a bit bigger & thicker walled to use so I can drill through it & route the grip wires inside. The one thats on it is from a bicycle and doesn't quite fit, plus seems too thin to try to drill & expect it to stay in one piece in use.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:31 AM   #86
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Location: Florida
Oddometer: 1,764
Ditch the POR15. I have a fiberglass tanked and it failed not once, but twice.

I'd used Caswell sealant. Put that in over a year ago for my fiberglass tank and not one single problem since. Much better product from both a chemical and user standpoint. Best $60 I've spent.
"The bold adventurer succeeds the best. - Ovid

I drink the koolaid too...just not the orange kind.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:59 AM   #87
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Location: Swellvue, WA
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I've never had any long-term luck with either the POR-15 stuff or Kreem. Getting all the old rust out is damn near impossible, and if the liner doesn't fail immediately, it fails within a year. What has worked is taking it to a shop that does radiator and fuel tank restoration work and having them boil the rust out of the tank and then do a professional epoxy job. But it trashes the tank paint.

- Mark
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:26 AM   #88
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Midwest, West Oz
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Originally Posted by toplessFC3Sman
One other question... What would you call the style of handle bar that's on the bike right now? I'd like to get one thats a bit bigger & thicker walled to use so I can drill through it & route the grip wires inside. The one thats on it is from a bicycle and doesn't quite fit, plus seems too thin to try to drill & expect it to stay in one piece in use.
Those bars are called by some "superbike" bars, very similar to the RD350LC standard bars. Most bike retailers should get them easy, or Ebay. You can also get them in alloy, both with a 2" rise and pullback, but also flat (no rise) "drag" bars (2" pullback), made by Renthal, you can even get the bar mounts to go with them. A really comfy set would be a set of MX bars, about 4" rise and 2" pullback, but might be higher than you want (although about 2" less rise than stock). The steel bars might be better than alloy, coz the alloy bars are 4mm thick, so have less I.D. for your wiring.

Great project mate! Excellent left-field solutions to getting an "old girl" breathing new life again. As a long-term owner of a CB350, I applaud your application.

Oh yeah.......if I can make one of these run with standard CV's, then 28mm smoothbores, then with a 36mm Alfa Romeo Dellorto, then finally with a single 1.75" SU carb, then I reckon this will be a breeze compared to your 13BT tuning wise.

Have fun man!
Who the hell would drag race a Ducati?!?!?!?!
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:23 AM   #89
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Looking forward to see the end result.
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:37 PM   #90
Brad Felmey
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Location: Fort Worth, TX
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That gas cap latch was recalled because it easily became depressed in a collision, causing massive fuel leakage. Your local Honda dealer should have the replacement key-latch part, for free if you do it right. ;)
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