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Old 08-28-2014, 08:00 PM   #1
bmwhacker OP
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Honda GL1000 Gold Wing Single Carb Conversion?

Thinking of going that way... anyone around here have any experience with the conversion?
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:21 PM   #2
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Been thinking about in on my 81 but I'm not in a hurry because the bike is running pretty damn good lately.

Quite a few threads on this over on the Naked Goldwing Forum. Just do a search for " single carb conversion" .


http://www.ngwclub.com/
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:48 PM   #3
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Murray sells many different Mikuni carb conversions for several different model Honda motorcycles. Here's his contact info. Not sure if he mentioned it or someone else told me he was working on a single carb kit to replace dual carbs. Not sure which bike, though.

http://murrayscarbs.com/
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Old 11-12-2014, 07:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainMidnight View Post
...what would you like to know about converting?
Anything you might know.
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:31 PM   #5
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Is there a fix for the hydrolock issue on the side stand? great job on the conversion, i would imagine there a lot of wing owners looking to simplify there carbs.
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:03 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by CaptainMidnight View Post
I may know a thing or two about running a GL1000 with a single-carb conversion ...with absolutely positive results.

...what would like to know?
I see numerous ads for different piece meal set ups. Hoping someone has done the conversion and through trail and error came up with something that works.....I don't want to "reinvent" the wheel and make errors that others have made.....plus I don't have a huge budget

Here's a start......

Are there any "complete" kits available?
Or must one "piece" everything together?
Source for manifolds?...... ( I see a number of different configurations that have been used)
Price of manifolds
Type of Carb which would work well? ....(I see numerous different carbs which could be used...which ones' work?)
Source for carb?
Price of carb?
Throttle cable attachment / will the stock cable work?
Choke cable set up / attachment/ will the stock cable work?
Will the tool box tray clear an air filter?....or must the tool tray be abandoned?
Cold weather "icing" of carb?....or is there a way to "pre-heat" the manifold?
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:31 PM   #7
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Thanks, Mike!
I've a lot of work in it.

I can't speak too strongly on any fix for the factory rack of Keihin carburetors except to say that a combination of tilt from being on the sidestand and two floats that raise when doing so may contribute towards the view that some have in seeing a design flaw when the maintenance habits of owner's who experience this are factored-in over the long haul.
Someone like Randakk could certainly give more insight into a better fix than I may ever know on a factory rack.

Unfortunately, ...my conversion is not immune to hydrolocking.
I experienced it early on in my use of it. I had a float stick up on a NOS Motorcraft 740 (a licensed copy of the Weber DFTA32 (the US version of the DFT32 available worldwide)).

Fortunately, MANY have sourced their conversion carburetors from the same individual I use, purchasing the exact carburetor I use and have not experienced a hydrolock situation for doing so.

Be it Keihin, Weber or any other carburetor, I too told myself it was a freak occurrence and not my fault.
Matters not that I say that because ...there are that many of these carburetor conversions out there and in use on these 4-cylinder GL's.

Overall, I would say using this 30+ year-old *new* Ford carburetor is a safer option over the inconsistentcy of the remanufactured or, especially, the rebuilt carburetor options.

Again, most never experience a hydrlock situation with a old Goldwing. In saying that, a good portion of the motorcycle hydrolock situations may very well be Goldwing's though.

A single carburetor conversion is no cure-all for a problematic factory rack.
Some serious thought combined with above average shop skills are required in building a effective conversion that will rival factory performance.

Internet Forums are loaded with information.
...a salt shaker is required when reading them.

Sounds like the single carb conversions are a "mixed bag / crap shoot". I don't have huge sums of $$$$ to throw at a "might work" untried scenario. To avoid throwing $$$$ down a black hole, maybe need to dig into the stock carbs. I have some "shop skills"...but no shop or even a garage, so all my work is done outside. Shop equipment consists of a drill, an angle grinder and a low pressure air hose.
I was tempted to buy a manifold / carb being sold on EBay, but don't know enough about such conversions to risk spending $500.00+ on somebody's rookie design. Plus it wasn't clear concerning throttle cable / choke attachments. ....and of course everyone brags about how great "their" conversion is. The Goldwing sites are all over the place...some conversions work "great"...some don't work without constant attention....some GW owners say it is a sacriment to attempt such a feat.....I just want a set up that works. The stock system works well....when it works. Over complicated and a PITA most the time in my experience. I just want to ride the thing, not be screwing with 4 carbs all the time.
I'll likely tear it all down and attempt a quad rebuild on the OEM carbs. That would be the cheapest route...a local Honda Retired Mechanic offered to rebuild them for me but wanted over $800.00 to do it. I thought that price was ridiculous.

I've had the current GoldWing for 3 years or so. It ran good for 2.5 years...then "died" a few months back....never heard of a "hydrolock"??????....does that mean a float stuck and filled a cylinder full of fuel?....or something to do with the cooling system? ("hydro" = H20?)
As a habit, I always close fuel petcocks when stopped so maybe that is why I've never witnessed such an event....if that is what it is....(?)
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:49 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by CaptainMidnight View Post
...are you still around on this or ...
Great info & photos.
Are you selling such assemblies?
About ready to "dig into" the OEM Honda carbs to see what gives.
I think the Weber carb would be the best. I've seen other ones with Solex and other similar one barrel knock off carbs.
Looking at the manifold / carb set-up you've posted, I could buy a couple old Gold Wings for the cost of that.(?)
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:54 AM   #9
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I had an 83 Interstate that needed its carbs cleaned, but I opted for a Cycle Innovations (I think that was the company about 13 years ago) Holley 1-barrel carb setup. It ran great, but when it got cold, it didn't have any way to warm the intake air so it would stumble and I'd have to ride it on partial choke.
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:58 AM   #10
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I built a single carb Valkyrie a couple years ago. Looked like this.

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Old 11-18-2014, 11:36 AM   #11
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Is that a belt driven air/fuel homogenizer I see there? Innovative!
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Old 11-19-2014, 06:46 PM   #12
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anotherguy, ...very nice!
Do you have a build-thread of your Valk induction?
I (and others) would be very interested in it.
No build thread but if you've any questions PM me and I'd be happy to answer. It is an expensive and involved task. But to wheelie a 700+ pound motorcycle on throttle alone is quite a thrill.




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Old 11-19-2014, 10:46 PM   #13
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Heating the manifolds plenum floor via intimate fluid contact is mandatory...
If a Weber 32/36 carb is utilized (for the GL 1000), what are your jetting recommendations?


The VW Solex type single barrel doesn't appeal to me. I think the progressive Weber 2 bbl. would be a better choice. I've had similar Weber carbs on numerous Euro sports cars with very good performance / reliability.
I've read that the Type 3 VW Manilfold will fit the 32/36 carb? Haven't been able to find one yet.
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:26 AM   #14
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Well, the first step in choosing a Weber is to size the throats for the engine that it is to go on.
A 32mm venturi opening with a 26mm choke is too large for the primary barrel. Proper atomization of the fuel won't happen. Airspeed throught the venturi won't activate the idle circuit properly.
A smaller primary barrel is a better option..
The Motorcraft 740/Weber DFTA32 from Tom Langdon @ Stovebolt Engine Co. is a better choice for a carburetor. It is a NOS carburetor meant for a Ford Escort. New, never used. Less than $100.
It has a 32mm opening that utilizes a 22mm choke and is jetted (calibrated) very close to our needs on a stock engine. Many see no need to recalibrate. Recalibration should be looked at if any other engine mods have been done.

Your inlet manifold will determine just how well that carburetor works on your engine.

I buy my plenums (VW center section) from CIP1.com. PICT34 carb base flanges are used as cylinder head flanges and can be found there as well.
I get my tubing from CXRacing.com.


The plenum, runner tubing and cylinder head flanges are all available.
Great info!....thanks....I'm following up on these tips. Pretty sure I'll go with your recommendations as you've "been there, done that"....
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:54 PM   #15
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Oh I didn't make that manifold. I just built the bike. It's a Magnuson supercharger kit. Sorry if I gave that impression that wasn't my intention.

here's a crappy photo of the bike halfway through the process.

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