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Old 10-20-2009, 07:54 PM   #16
unlawfulsm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fire_strom
No, that plug is the mystery one I asked about in this thread>
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=516364

The leads I used are the ones at the bottom (690 R) marked ACC. There are two sets one always hot (ACC1) and one set that is only on when the key is on (ACC2). They are marked ACCx 10A so if you dig around in there you should find them.

Scott

Worked like a charm, thanks
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:23 PM   #17
unlawfulsm
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Am I missing something? I know I am an electrical retard, but I think I have mine wired the same way that you show above. When I wire to ACC2 I get grips on all the time with the key, there is no off. Brown gets the two red to ground. The black/red gets the red from the switch which is plugged in on the middle plug for the switch. BLue to high and white to low = Smoking hot grips all the time. Anyone help an electrical newb?
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:51 PM   #18
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Wierd, that sounds right. Are you saying that even with the switch in the middle position your grips are hot or that you can turn them on even if the bike is turned off?
Scott
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:53 PM   #19
unlawfulsm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fire_strom
Wierd, that sounds right. Are you saying that even with the switch in the middle position your grips are hot or that you can turn them on even if the bike is turned off?
Scott

They are off when the bike is off but come on when the bike is on and cant be turned off even with the switch in the middle position.
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:58 PM   #20
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Huh, just went and tried ever possible combination and put it back to the way that I originally had it and it works fine now. Go figure! See why I can never become proficient at electrics
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:02 PM   #21
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That sounds like the switch is leaking. Maybe check the connections at the switch to make sure they aren't bent into each other and shorting through the switch. Other than that I would think the switch might be bad. The wiring sounds right though. Radio shack or any car parts store should have a usable switch.
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:45 PM   #22
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Sweet, looks like you fixed it while I was writing that last post. Glad It worked. Any idea what was wrong?
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:35 AM   #23
Colebatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fire_strom
As for load on the bike, I figure the output should be ok to handle all of them. I read somewhere they put out 225w but I don't know if that’s true or not.

the grips are 36w
the vest is 45w
the GPS is 7w
the headlight 35w (but I want to be able to burn 70w)
Tail light & parking light around 5w think.
That totals 163w w/ the 70w headlight.
That leaves 62w to charge the battery, run the computer stuff and the power the pump and what ever else it needs.

I guess I don't really know what it needs for its critical processes. If that’s too close I can disable the parking light, and put an LED in the tail light for a few watt savings.

Anyone know for sure what these are putting out?

Scott
I am curious as to how your 224W generator will keep up with all that. Cause its only putting out 224w at full RPMs

I have an XChallenge at the moment with heated vest (70w) and gloves (35w) and 2 x 35 HIDs, plus a GPS ... in theory that all should be fine with my 280w generator - with 100w to spare, but because its hardly ever producing 280w, the battery will flatten over a day or two touring with all of that on.

Not a huge problem as the 400w generator from the old F650GS should fit. Its the same engine. But what to do with the orange 690? Who possibly makes more meaty generators?
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Colebatch screwed with this post 11-01-2009 at 05:25 AM
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Old 11-01-2009, 05:24 AM   #24
unlawfulsm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fire_strom
That sounds like the switch is leaking. Maybe check the connections at the switch to make sure they aren't bent into each other and shorting through the switch. Other than that I would think the switch might be bad. The wiring sounds right though. Radio shack or any car parts store should have a usable switch.
Scott
I think the switch is bad. It worked for one day of riding and now there is no high only off and low. Checked the local stores and all that is available is a on off switch, no three position. I will try contacting Moose to get a replacement.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:31 AM   #25
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My understanding was that the output reached max at a few thousand RPM's. In any case, I still have the 35w light and haven't had any charging issues so far.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Colebatch
I am curious as to how your 224W generator will keep up with all that. Cause its only putting out 224w at full RPMs

I have an XChallenge at the moment with heated vest (70w) and gloves (35w) and 2 x 35 HIDs, plus a GPS ... in theory that all should be fine with my 280w generator - with 100w to spare, but because its hardly ever producing 280w, the battery will flatten over a day or two touring with all of that on.

Not a huge problem as the 400w generator from the old F650GS should fit. Its the same engine. But what to do with the orange 690? Who possibly makes more meaty generators?
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:04 AM   #26
Colebatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fire_strom
My understanding was that the output reached max at a few thousand RPM's. In any case, I still have the 35w light and haven't had any charging issues so far.
Let us know if anything changes ... thats good news if it stays that way. I might be able to do a 690E project after all
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Old 11-15-2009, 01:49 PM   #27
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These grips are terrible. I have not been able to get them to work consistently. They work great one ride and then the next nothing...repeat.
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Old 11-15-2009, 05:40 PM   #28
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Did you ever replace the switch? There's really not much to go wrong with these. Faulty power source, faulty switch, faulty elements grounding on the bar. I'd check the switch since it is the only moving part. Assuming that the power source is good that is.
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Old 11-06-2010, 04:30 PM   #29
KTMtrailrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fire_strom
For navigation and for heat.

Like I do with all bikes I wanted to be able to power a GPS, a vest and heated grips.

There's nothing earth shatteringly complicated about doing any of these things but I haven't seen much on the subject specifically relating to the 690's.

So to start with I ordered some stuff from Powerlet and Symtec heated grips from CalSportTouring.




I went with Symtec for the heaters for two reasons, one, the choice of switches and two, they have two circuits for high and low instead of some versions that use resistors to change from high to low (waste of power and pain to wire cleanly).

I went with the metal toggle because I've preferred it in the past. In this application, with this location I might have opted for the little plastic one. Once I get the little rubber boot I'll be happier with this one.



I had gone to the geek store (Radio Shack) and picked up a relay so I could avoid the inevitable dead battery from hot grips while parked scenario. Well once I got into the project I realized the nice engineers at KTM had given me ACC1 and ACC2 leads to work with under the headlight. One is always hot the other is switched with the ignition. I used the switched one and didn't bother using the relay. The ACC1&2 are both rated at 10A so my 3A grip heaters shouldn't tax them at all.

Here's a picture.
You can see the two red wires joined and connected to the brown wire in the center. They are the ground wires from the grips going to the ground from ACC2. The BLK/RED wire to the right of them is the hot (switched) going to the grip heater switch. I routed the wires along the path of the clutch hose.
Thanks for your efforts, that was a big help to me today!
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Old 01-09-2011, 11:30 AM   #30
shipwrek12001
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back from the dead

so its been a while since this thread. Does anyone know what the available watts are for the 690. How many e-toys can this run before electrical issues arise?
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