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Old 02-20-2014, 11:40 AM   #1
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The "amateur/pro woodworkers" thread

Have a woodworking question?
Want to show off your latest project? N00bs as well as pros are encouraged to join in! We're here to help, not judge.
Share a killer deal on a woodworking tool you just scored from Craigslist!
Have a cheap trick or awesome jig you want to show off?
Let's make some dust!
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:43 AM   #2
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:55 AM   #3
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I'll get things rolling with the shaper I picked up a few weeks ago for $450.
This thing needs nothing but a coat of paint to bring it back to it's 1945 glory! I painted the doors, but haven't had time to tackle the cabinet yet.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:01 PM   #4
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Looks pretty similar to http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=938697 which was active about a week ago, but good luck with this new one.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:03 PM   #5
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I'll be here posting plenty of dumb beginner questions about building cabinets, and French doors.

Right now I'm finishing up a bit of drywall.

I'm planning to make a butcher block type countertop. So, since I've never even glued up a cutting board before I will begin by making a cutting board to see how that goes. I've got a lot of tools, but nothing fancy. I'll be back here after I've got a few cutting boards to show off.

Btw, is there any reason I can't make my cabinet doors glued up like butcher block, but just 3/4" thick? Is there a stability issue, and they might cup or warp?
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennR View Post

Btw, is there any reason I can't make my cabinet doors glued up like butcher block, but just 3/4" thick? Is there a stability issue, and they might cup or warp?
The main issue is that the size will change with moisture content. If the door fits in a frame there will be a problem with gaps. If the door is larger than the frame and overlaps it should be OK, though it will be heavier than typical cabinet doors.

You can minimize warping by having grain in adjacent pieces arranged so the center of the tree would alternate above and below the door surface. Then rather than warp it would wrinkle, or wave, which would be less of a problem than if the entire door warped.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:48 PM   #7
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GSwayne

I think Glennr might be talking about doing some panels that endgrain showing , is how I took it .


Maybe he can elaborate a litte more ?
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
is there any reason I can't make my cabinet doors glued up like butcher block, but just 3/4" thick? Is there a stability issue, and they might cup or warp?
Drywall sucks. I don't know how people do that for a living.

A glued panel should stay flat as long as (1) the wood starts out with consistent moisture content, (2) the grain of each piece has alternating grain direction, and (3) the finish is applied evenly to the front and back.

If going with a "flat" or "plain sawn" appearance (see footnote), when looking at the top edge of the panel, the grain should basically look like a wavy line -- the grain on the first piece should cup in, the second should cup out, and so forth. The natural movement of the wood with moisture changes will counteract itself and should stay flat. If going for a "quarter sawn" appearance, grain direction isn't as important because the expansion will be in the thickness of the board, not the width, but I would still alternate the grains the best I could. I.e., ( ) / \ ( ) ( ) \ / ( ) ( )

*Footnote*
For those who are curious and don't know, here is the difference between plain sawn, rift sawn, and quarter sawn lumber, from a page I blatantly stole from the interwebs. Many woods don't have much visual difference between plain sawn and quarter sawn, but some, like oak especially, have drastic visual differences.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 02-20-2014, 02:05 PM   #9
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Next woodworking project is to split a bunch of cedar shakes. Finally will get to use the froe....been hanging in the shop since I bought it 15(?) years ago for very little money at some thrift store.

If that doesn't work, I guess I'll have kindlings for the next 10 years.
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Old 02-20-2014, 02:14 PM   #10
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Next woodworking project is to split a bunch of cedar shakes.
Let us know how that works out. I've always admired people who make that look waaaay too easy. It has to be harder than it looks.
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Old 02-20-2014, 02:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
I'll be here posting plenty of dumb beginner questions about building cabinets, and French doors.

Right now I'm finishing up a bit of drywall.

I'm planning to make a butcher block type countertop. So, since I've never even glued up a cutting board before I will begin by making a cutting board to see how that goes. I've got a lot of tools, but nothing fancy. I'll be back here after I've got a few cutting boards to show off.

Btw, is there any reason I can't make my cabinet doors glued up like butcher block, but just 3/4" thick? Is there a stability issue, and they might cup or warp?



















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Old 02-20-2014, 02:19 PM   #12
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Also

not really gonna advertise , but if any of yall are looking for a Table saw ,

I have a couple I'm gonna get rid of















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Old 02-20-2014, 07:52 PM   #13
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^^^^

Info??
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:53 PM   #14
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This is just another thread that's going to make me hate my life.
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
I'll be here posting plenty of dumb beginner questions about building cabinets, and French doors.

Right now I'm finishing up a bit of drywall.

I'm planning to make a butcher block type countertop. So, since I've never even glued up a cutting board before I will begin by making a cutting board to see how that goes. I've got a lot of tools, but nothing fancy. I'll be back here after I've got a few cutting boards to show off.

Btw, is there any reason I can't make my cabinet doors glued up like butcher block, but just 3/4" thick? Is there a stability issue, and they might cup or warp?
look into getting a biscuit jointer for this job.
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