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Old 06-03-2013, 06:09 AM   #1
sjc56 OP
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F7 leaking oil vent tube

I have oil dripping out of the oil tank vent tube when trying to kick over. Bike started doing this after i rebuilt the carburetor and replaced the clutch, which involves removing the oil pump. I did an 80 mile ride, bike ran so so bogged down didn't want to start after a lunch stop. I tried to start it Saturday, no go and a puddle of 2 stroke oil under the bike after kicking it over many times. Tank is not over filled, it did do this before my ride and bike does smoke at higher rpm's.
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Old 06-04-2013, 07:30 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by sjc56 View Post
I have oil dripping out of the oil tank vent tube when trying to kick over. Bike started doing this after i rebuilt the carburetor and replaced the clutch, which involves removing the oil pump. I did an 80 mile ride, bike ran so so bogged down didn't want to start after a lunch stop. I tried to start it Saturday, no go and a puddle of 2 stroke oil under the bike after kicking it over many times. Tank is not over filled, it did do this before my ride and bike does smoke at higher rpm's.
hmm my first guesswould be that the carb rebuild may have jetted the carb too lean? not sure on the oil overflow, as my f11 ( the 250) hasnt had a working oil pump the entire time i have had it....i just run 32:1 premix....
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:07 AM   #3
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Stock jetting on the carb, seems like I am getting to much oil. It started last night with one Kick and smoked big time killed some bugs though. When checking the pump(it's disconnected when checking) my Haynes says 20-1 but I have heard with the new oils you can run less.
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:37 AM   #4
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Stock jetting on the carb, seems like I am getting to much oil. It started last night with one Kick and smoked big time killed some bugs though. When checking the pump(it's disconnected when checking) my Haynes says 20-1 but I have heard with the new oils you can run less.
Yeah 20-1 is just to be on the safe side.....which ironically will make the engine run lean, due to more oil and less gas, but more lube in the lean condition somewhat helps that....LOL
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:29 AM   #5
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We just have gas with 10% ethanol around here which also helps leans things out, though my plugs show I'm running rich or to much oil, dark no soot.
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:35 AM   #6
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Is the air filter clean?
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Old 06-07-2013, 05:08 AM   #7
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Yes
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:58 AM   #8
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as for the not running portion, i would check to make sure you have a good fat blue spark and if not, clean out your points, and possibly try a new plug, that helped me get my f11 running again...

as for the oil drip, not really sure what that could be other thana loose fitting somewhere... can you trace the oil to where the leak originates?
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Old 06-07-2013, 03:23 PM   #9
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Well the drip is from the oil tank vent hose, no points so they are fine good spark new plug. Oh and it did start one kick the other day.
I have been doing the timing belt, water pump ,seals on my Subaru so haven't any time for the F7 this week.
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:11 PM   #10
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Have you verified that the rubber flange between the carb and the engine case is sealing tight? They shrink over time and with no clamp involved will be first logical place for an air gap.

Otherwise crank seals could be a concern too.

FYI, I sold my F7 a couple years ago...
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:43 PM   #11
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Have you verified that the rubber flange between the carb and the engine case is sealing tight? They shrink over time and with no clamp involved will be first logical place for an air gap.

Otherwise crank seals could be a concern too.

FYI, I sold my F7 a couple years ago...
I thought about that boot, but the plug seems to read rich from my understanding, which would eliminate an air leak from my list of concerns....
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Old 06-09-2013, 01:27 AM   #12
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Take a good look at your transmission case oil. If it looks fouled, or is low, you may well have a crank seal problem on that side. Lost crankcase compression can pump tranny oil out the vents, while intake vacuum can draw that extra oil in for combustion. If a 2-T engine has been sitting a long time before being run again, I am always cautious about crank seals. Might be worth a look-see.
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:00 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by sjc56 View Post
I have oil dripping out of the oil tank vent tube when trying to kick over. Bike started doing this after i rebuilt the carburetor and replaced the clutch, which involves removing the oil pump. I did an 80 mile ride, bike ran so so bogged down didn't want to start after a lunch stop. I tried to start it Saturday, no go and a puddle of 2 stroke oil under the bike after kicking it over many times. Tank is not over filled, it did do this before my ride and bike does smoke at higher rpm's.
I have to change the clutch on my 71 f-7, how much work is involved.
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:40 AM   #14
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I have to change the clutch on my 71 f-7, how much work is involved.
if its similar to my ke100 (i think it is, both are rotary inducted kawasakis) it wasnt too difficult...bull the carb and oil pump covers, drain the trans, then pull the side case off, clutch is right there, 6 bolts for the pressure plate and springs, pull the friction disks and replace making sure to alternate, staring and ending with a friction disk,and having a steel disk between each friction...then bolt up the pressure plate and springs, throw the covers on, filler up and reset the clutch cable.... i did my ke in about an hr and a half, but i have done more than one clutch, did a honda 110, a F11, and now the ke... its not too difficult...if you are unsure of how to get everything apart, grab a Clymers manual, or a factory service manual, they will lay out the process step by step, and show good illustrations of what needs to be done.
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:42 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Duck_Pilot View Post
Take a good look at your transmission case oil. If it looks fouled, or is low, you may well have a crank seal problem on that side. Lost crankcase compression can pump tranny oil out the vents, while intake vacuum can draw that extra oil in for combustion. If a 2-T engine has been sitting a long time before being run again, I am always cautious about crank seals. Might be worth a look-see.
good question...given the not running right, and the pressure, i think the right side crank seal may be the culprit, that would show rich on the plug due to the extra oil, and cause the blowby to the tank...
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